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mtnmanxxx
09-20-2010, 09:54 PM
My 2008 sprinter has 176288 kms on it and is starting to act up. Whenever I accelerate, the engine hesitates. Have to let off and slowly gain speed by lightly applying the accelerator and letting off when it sputters than re-apply. Have started getting codes, crankshaft position sensor (which has been changed already), Diesel particulate filter ( which the mechanic did a cleaning cycle on), and some communication module codes. The OBD2 codes are U0155- lost communication with instrument panel cluster control module, U0122 - Lost communication with vehicle Dynamics control module, P0335 - Crankshaft position sensor circuit A . And also codes P2457, P2951, P2045 which no longer come up. Also when locked on cruise the RPM gauge jumps about 200 every time the engine has its little hesitation.

Question is... Does anyone know what may be causing all of this? Trying to avoid an expensive trip to the dealer(no warranty). Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks

Chandlerazman
09-20-2010, 11:25 PM
I had the same issues. The dealer is replacing the engine control module. Good news is that my situation is covered under warranty...Bad news is that my van has been apart from me for almost two weeks. They had to order this part from Germany. I would not know what the cost would be outright. One night I came to a very hard stop at a light turning red. The engine stalled and all the instrument lights came on. It would not restart. It finally started after 25 attempts. I did get the crankshaft positioner code (Which was replaced already in the past) and some other codes that reflected something with the instrumentation. The nest day, it ran on three cylinders when I started it up for the first time in the morning. Schumacher European sent over a tow truck. The dealer did pulled out a bunch of codes. One of the main problems was that the ESP was not programmed in the ECM and when they reprogrammed it, the ECM would not hold it in its memory. I believe this must have been like this from manufacture. Recently I had my Sprinter on the dyno and the ASR did not attempt to fight it. They drove my van on the dyno as a normal vehicle. Someone posted that when they did the same thing, their van acted up by locking the wheels as the fronts were not turning and thus caused the ASR to kick in. I guess when I came to a hard (almost ABS) stop, that's when my computer got all confused with the missing ASR string code. I had never stopped to the point of skidding as I did that night. I was in a sh*tty area and didn't want some back ass roads copper writing me up otherwise, I would have gone through the yellow light as normal.

mtnmanxxx
09-21-2010, 02:30 PM
Thank you, the ECM sounds expensive!!! Will look into it. Anyone else experience this power loss?

mtnmanxxx
09-27-2010, 12:31 AM
So the mechanic drove the van all week-end. He now thinks the problem could be from the torque converter? Also he checked the tranny fluid and said it was black! No filings in pan though. Ordered the dipstick from Europarts and will be doing a flush as soon as it arrives.

piper1
09-27-2010, 01:35 AM
None of your problems sound transmission related. The fluid does go very dark (by traditional NAFTA standards) after use but is not "burnt".

Your stumbling is likely caused by the engine having to, or trying to, adapt to your other engine electrical/communications problems.

Take it to a dealer who can read the real codes (experience here in the forum suggests the OBD translations are approximate at best) and get them to do the diagnostic work only, then give you an estimate for repairs. This will be far cheaper than replacing a transmission or torque converter that might just be fine.

Has the transmission been serviced at the required intervals using the correct ATF?

Also, no real need to do a flush. Draining the pan and torque converter gets almost all the oil out. Flushes are targeted at typical transmissions that do not have torque converter drains and thus, cannot be drained completely at service.

Where are you located?

jdcaples
09-27-2010, 03:35 AM
Flushes are targeted at typical transmissions that do not have torque converter drains and thus, cannot be drained completely at service.



A word of caution about transmission system flushing:

Please look at the pdf attached to this posting:

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=55977&postcount=1

On the third page of the PDF, you'll see the filter seated in the valve body, defying gravity courtesy of an o-ring that keeps it in place.

A typical American transmission fluid flushes run the risk of blowing the filter out of the valve body. If the pan's not dropped and the filter reseated, you'll send a lot of fluid right around the filter.

-Jon

mtnmanxxx
09-27-2010, 12:14 PM
Thank you jdcaples and piper1! Your input is greatly appreciated! I am located in Cardinal, ON 5 hrs. East of Kitchener.

showkey
09-27-2010, 03:09 PM
Also, no real need to do a flush. Draining the pan and torque converter gets almost all the oil out. Flushes are targeted at typical transmissions that do not have torque converter drains and thus, cannot be drained completely at service.

Where are you located?

Most manufactures also warn about trans flushes.......they can do more harm than good............the dealers that up sell flushes have targeted your wallet:hmmm:

Not too much dfference than the power steering flush:thumbdown: .............another common up sell

sprintguy
09-27-2010, 10:44 PM
Here : read this ,
26570











Carl

jdcaples
09-27-2010, 11:30 PM
Thanks, Carl.

That particular document, LI27.00-N-048695_Ver.2
Model 906 is included in the zip file attached to the second posting (http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=83957&postcount=2)in this thread:


http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9594


-Jon

LivingtheDream
09-28-2010, 11:27 PM
Ok, I am not 'technical' as such, but this might be something that can help... When in Knoxville, TN (from my home in Orange, CA) a Sprinter specialist at the Freightliner dealer told me about the fact that the electronics controlling my transmission try to 'learn' how I drive and repeat those traits.

I have had trouble several times with severe hesitation, acceleration and downright inability to shift the transmission. I have had to climb several hills at 40 mph because the transmission would not allow the RPM and gear to be manually shifted. If I worked back into cruise control all was well.....

So, now to the point. After several sessions like those described, the specialist at Knoxville, reset the transmission electronics (cleared them) as they were 'confused' so to speak. I had them 'cleared' again recently at the nearby MB dealer (after telling them what to do as they had no idea) and again fixed the issues.

In my latest trip to OR/WA the transmission has gotten 'smarter' than me, not only is it downshifting earlier on hills, it is now downshifting on downhills as I would normally.

Dont know if this has anything to do with the issue at hand, but it has solved a great deal of my issues.
2008 3500 Freightliner Cab/Chassis LTV Freedom II

LivingtheDream
Turn the Battery and Dont Smile

SRT
09-29-2010, 04:25 AM
One of my 2008's (I bought two of them about a month ago and they've already caused me more headaches than my '05 T1N ever has) got towed to the Freightliner dealer tonight with tranny trouble. 197K miles.

My driver called and said that the transmission had suddenly stopped working. Knowing that it could possibly be a computer hiccup, I used the power disconnect (beside the accelerator pedal) and let it sit for a few minutes, then plugged it back in. The truck then moved under it's own power again...

500 feet down the road, it did it again. I repeated the same procedure, and it moved under power again... but only a few feet.

I crawled under to take a look, and the trans pan had fluid on it. My guess is that the trans fluid level is low, and the computer is shutting the truck down to save the trans. What SUCKS is that I don't have a dipstick for that truck, and the one for my '05 probably wouldn't work... it was getting dark and I couldn't even find a place where the dipstick might be inserted.

The roll-back shows up, and I was able to DRIVE it up onto it. Now THAT.... THAT pi$$ed me off!

The lack of a tranny dipstick seems like overkill. It's almost as if MB thinks we're too stupid to maintain our own trucks to the level of their "precision engineering". All I know is that a new pan gasket and the ability to measure and add fluid would probably have saved me a tow bill and an expensive trip to the dealership...

"Mercedes-Benz. OVER-engineered like no other car."

If this particular 2008 continues giving me trouble, I may start making plans for a future one-wire Cummins 4BT / Allison conversion, replacing the gauges with mechanical ones and the "fly by wire" with a throttle cable. It might make it rattle, but at least it'd roll. My stuff has got to be running to make money, I don't have time for the elite stupidity of not having a frickin' trans dipstick. :thumbdown:

Aqua Puttana
09-29-2010, 12:04 PM
I agree that they should come with a transmission dipstick. That said, unless I see evidence of leaks I rarely check my transmission fluid level on the vehicles that do have a stick.

Why wouldn't your T1N dip stick work on an NCV3? They both have NAG1 transmissions. Good luck. vic

Chandlerazman
09-29-2010, 02:17 PM
If this particular 2008 continues giving me trouble, I may start making plans for a future one-wire Cummins 4BT / Allison conversion, replacing the gauges with mechanical ones and the "fly by wire" with a throttle cable. It might make it rattle, but at least it'd roll. My stuff has got to be running to make money, I don't have time for the elite stupidity of not having a frickin' trans dipstick. :thumbdown:


I would be curious to doing the same thing down the road... Let us know what you come up with.

mtnmanxxx
09-30-2010, 02:41 PM
Ok, great info is gathering here. I have had the codes read by the Mercedes dealer and they printed off four pages of codes!!! But all he said I needed was an EGR Temp. sensor which is $160 Canadian and on back order. As soon as I get it, I will post and let everyone know if it helps. The rest of the codes apparently are not active. I requested the printout for future references. It cost me $55 to have the codes read.

If this does not work, I will try re-setting the transmission. Thanks again everyone.

SRT
10-01-2010, 03:04 AM
I agree that they should come with a transmission dipstick. That said, unless I see evidence of leaks I rarely check my transmission fluid level on the vehicles that do have a stick.

Why wouldn't your T1N dip stick work on an NCV3? They both have NAG1 transmissions. Good luck. vic

I couldn't find the tube to stick it in!

Aqua Puttana
10-01-2010, 12:41 PM
I couldn't find the tube to stick it in!

Sounds like something I would've said back as a teenager.:tongue:

Here's picture and a link in case you still need it.

26677


How / to add transmission fluid
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11168&highlight=dipstick+location

Hope it goes OK for you.

SRT
10-02-2010, 04:26 AM
Too late for the dipstick. Tranny is BURNED UP, looks as if the previous owner may have driven it the first 200K miles without ever servicing the trans.

I called Silver Star in Oklahoma, reman is on the way. I've had excellent experiences with them in the past, best products, service, and warranty out there. The replacement I bought from them for my '05 2500 has outlasted and outperformed the original transmission.

Of note: The ink was barely dry on the van's final transfer of equity paperwork that the original owner and I had signed on Wednesday morning. Wednesday night, the tranny's shot. :yell:

mtnmanxxx
10-05-2010, 12:50 AM
Well, my nightmare continues... Replaced the EGR Temp sensor and changed transmission fluid. All the problems still exist. No idea what is going on. Time to make an appt with Mercedes dealer and see where that gets me. I will have them do a test drive first and go from there. Will keep you posted. Hopefully I can find someone who knows what the problem is.

mtnmanxxx
10-14-2010, 03:49 AM
Problem Solved!!! So, I took the van to MB dealer for a test drive. They drove it, and of course it was not as bad as it is when I drive it. They took it in and read codes again and did a re-gen on the DPF. It seemed to work better the yest of the day, than the next day it was running rough again.... day # 3 ran good, and has been running good ever since. So I figure all my problems must have been DPF related. Warning to owners... the oil types listed in the manual are NOT all recommended for your vehicle. I was using Mobil 1 0W-40 full synthetic. This type is only recomended for top ups only!!! I now use the ESP 5W-40 that states it is safe for DPF's. The dealer provided me with their oil list which was the same as manual with the exception... the dealers stated oil types to be used with a DPF and the types for without. For those of you that are wondering what a DPF is, Diesel Particulate Filter which is located in the exhaust system and is an expensive replacement.... $6200 filter only!!!

Studio718
10-14-2010, 03:57 PM
Problem Solved!!! So, I took the van to MB dealer for a test drive. They drove it, and of course it was not as bad as it is when I drive it. They took it in and read codes again and did a re-gen on the DPF. It seemed to work better the yest of the day, than the next day it was running rough again.... day # 3 ran good, and has been running good ever since. So I figure all my problems must have been DPF related. Warning to owners... the oil types listed in the manual are NOT all recommended for your vehicle. I was using Mobil 1 0W-40 full synthetic. This type is only recomended for top ups only!!! I now use the ESP 5W-40 that states it is safe for DPF's. The dealer provided me with their oil list which was the same as manual with the exception... the dealers stated oil types to be used with a DPF and the types for without. For those of you that are wondering what a DPF is, Diesel Particulate Filter which is located in the exhaust system and is an expensive replacement.... $6200 filter only!!!

****, I just bought 12 quarts of Mobil 1 ow40 as stated in my manual which is 225.bla bla.
Should I return it?

piper1
10-14-2010, 04:25 PM
****, I just bought 12 quarts of Mobil 1 ow40 as stated in my manual which is 225.bla bla.
Should I return it?

If you have a 2007 and up North American diesel powered Sprinter....then yes.

No offense but if your attitude toward correct oil is "225. bla bla," I hope your attitude when "bla bla" turns into $$ is not suddenly posted as "that :censored: Sprinter"

The owners manual is very clear on what oils these vans are to have. As an owner, its our responsibility to follow the standards or else it is our responsibility to pay the damages.

:2cents:

mtnmanxxx
10-15-2010, 12:43 AM
Yes, pick up the Mobil 1 ESP 5W40 European Formula. The Dodge dealer was able to order it in for me next day. It cost about 12-13 bucks per liter in Canada. Only comes in 1L size cases of 6. I never understood the importance of using the correct oil grade until I had this close call.... I may not be out of the woods yet, but I am hoping.

SRT
10-16-2010, 03:44 AM
I buy it at Pep Boys, at the same price as all of the other Mobil1 synthetics - $7.99 a quart.

SRT
10-16-2010, 03:48 AM
Too late for the dipstick. Tranny is BURNED UP, looks as if the previous owner may have driven it the first 200K miles without ever servicing the trans.

I called Silver Star in Oklahoma, reman is on the way. I've had excellent experiences with them in the past, best products, service, and warranty out there. The replacement I bought from them for my '05 2500 has outlasted and outperformed the original transmission.

Of note: The ink was barely dry on the van's final transfer of equity paperwork that the original owner and I had signed on Wednesday morning. Wednesday night, the tranny's shot. :yell:

The dealership performing my transmission replacement commented that it appeared to have never been serviced - but a quick call to another dealer revealed that the previous owner HAD serviced it four times since new, or about every 50K miles.

New transmission is working great. I also replaced the controller at the same time - something I highly recommend when replacing a tranny.

piper1
10-18-2010, 08:50 PM
Any Word back from Silverstar?

Salsaw
11-17-2010, 06:29 PM
Just had my 2010 Mercedes 3500 Bluetec in for a transmission service at the Mercedes dealer. It has 60,000 miles on it, put that on in 7 months. I picked it up and asked why they only used 4 liters of transmission fluid and the sprinter tech that was still there said that some torque converters dont have a drain plug and that mine didnt??? So is that true or was he lying and being lazy and didnt do it???

kendall69
11-17-2010, 07:19 PM
...Just had my 2010 Mercedes 3500 Bluetec in for a transmission service at the Mercedes dealer. It has 60,000 miles on it, put that on in 7 months. I picked it up and asked why they only used 4 liters of transmission fluid and the sprinter tech that was still there said that some torque converters dont have a drain plug and that mine didnt??? So is that true or was he lying and being lazy and didnt do it???

I'm on both sides of the fence on this type of drain issue. I believe that one should take out EVERY DROP and replace it with new, right? Heres is where the people in the industry tell me otherwise. I had a Duramax Diesel with an Allison transmission ( you know the transmission they put in M1 Abrams tanks ) - anyway I didn't even want to trust the GM dealer touching this tranny so I went directly to Allison for a service. Sure enough, all they did was drop the pan change the filter and put in 7 or 8 quarts of fluid. I asked the head mechanic and he said that's all they ever do when they service the trans. The shop was full of Busses, dump truck, fire engines, garbage trucks, etc. so my baby truck was in good hands, but still even with that I'm still not convinced, but it also seems what they all do - INCLUDING my Sprinter dealer who just dropped the pan and added 7-8 quarts.

Salsaw
11-17-2010, 08:45 PM
Yeah I hear you, the only reason I didnt want to do it was because you have to remove some crossmember piece and jack up something and way more work than my 06 sprinter was to do a fluid change. $470.00 bucks to do the trany service and rear diff. And while they had it they did the Adblue recall.

kkanuck
11-17-2010, 09:09 PM
I'm on both sides of the fence on this type of drain issue. I believe that one should take out EVERY DROP and replace it with new, right? Heres is where the people in the industry tell me otherwise. I had a Duramax Diesel with an Allison transmission ( you know the transmission they put in M1 Abrams tanks ) - anyway I didn't even want to trust the GM dealer touching this tranny so I went directly to Allison for a service. Sure enough, all they did was drop the pan change the filter and put in 7 or 8 quarts of fluid. I asked the head mechanic and he said that's all they ever do when they service the trans. The shop was full of Busses, dump truck, fire engines, garbage trucks, etc. so my baby truck was in good hands, but still even with that I'm still not convinced, but it also seems what they all do - INCLUDING my Sprinter dealer who just dropped the pan and added 7-8 quarts.


I too changed my Duramax with Allison recently and also went to Allison to get the Transynd special fluid. They told me there is a 100K or 150k mile interval for fluid change, even though GM states 30K miles I believe.


I opened my pan bolt and drained at 70K miles (also at 40K miles), the fluid looked so clean that I did not bother flushing out all the fluid, and only filled what came out of the drain hole. I ended up only putting 1 of the 4 liter jugs in. 8 liters is what I bought but did not bother flushing...so I had a 4 liter jug for next time!

ddduck
01-27-2011, 12:04 AM
Please Help! Done in Florida west coast Ft Pierce area,driving sprinter 3500 2005 150k miles and ! lite comes on.Pull into rest stop and shut off engine and heard a cluck.Could not repeat this sound after starting up and off again.Scan guage reports U0122 and p0720 codes.Started out on 95 HWY and could not get the van to shift up out 1st gear. Pulled over at next exit and am trying to find out the problem.Any help from the group would be great.

Don at 574-274-1369 :thinking:

The plumber
04-09-2012, 12:14 AM
My van has the same shudder and tach jump. What was the final outcome.

abittenbinder
04-09-2012, 02:11 PM
The torque converter drain plug is difficult to access on the 6 cyl Sprinters.

Many techs are only draining the approx. 4 quarts in the pan.

It is critical to drain and replace all 8 quarts or shudder under load will likely occur!

Doktor A

mtnmanxxx
04-13-2012, 12:28 AM
The Plumber: Never did find out what the cause was.... it is still doing it after about a year. Figure I would drive it till it breaks!!!! About the only way I will find out for sure what it is. Recently had to replace a U-joint, which apparantly you cant buy on it's own. So replaced the whole drive shaft at $1400 and that problem is still there. Fixed the vibration I was getting at 60 kms/hr though.

danthewolf007
04-13-2012, 02:17 AM
get a silver star tranmission if you need to replace it 6000 miles in to my new silver star and i am now getting close to the fuel mileage my stealership said it would get 5 years later:cry: