round magnetic door stop

anybody know how to remove the black magnetis bumper from the body,thanks again,trying to fi9gure out a easy way to bring power into the van w/o drilling a hole in the wrong place,looking for references points,thanks

The black magnets are very difficult to remove, and will provide no access for anything. They are connected to brackets that angle back to the rear and are fastened in a very complicated way. It took a couple of hours to get one apart and just as long to re-assemble. My advice, leave them alone.

I have passed power through the body under the drivers seat, through the boot that is there for passing wiring harnesses and such to the outside. It also works great for the diesel line to the stove inside.

Hope this helps
Jef

It looks like there is a plugged hole on floor just behind the passenger seat. There is also a rubber plugged hole in roof above the rear doors. You can pull wires in a channel that is in the floor between the drivers seat and passenger seat. The previously mentioned boot under drivers seat is easy to use. After a deep breath, it is easy to cut holes in the floor. I used a 3" abrasive wheel on a die grinder to cut thru. The steel is soft so I found my jig saw with a metal cutting blade finished the square holes easily. Cut 4 holes. One for 120 volt in, one for a floor air vent, and two to access the diesel powered auxillary water heater hoses. Next is a drain hole for the shower. I did remove the wood floor prior to cutting the holes.

Many of us DIY camper conversions install a marine type fitting that boats have for connection to shore power. They are available at boat/marine supply stores and most of us mount the fitting on the left rear behind and above the rear tire. It takes a hole saw to easily cut through the sheet metal and then drilling 4 small screw holes -- all an easy job. The left rear seems to be the standard location to be towards power outlets in most camp grounds.

I mounted a retractable electrical reel (Artic Leash) behind left rear wheel and cut a 1 3/4" square hole in the floor to bring power into van. Found reel on the web. It is used in Northeast to power engine block heaters. Reel can not be seen and I do not need extension cord. Works as expected and is hidden under van but easy to reach. I do not want any exterior indications that mine is a DIY RV. Made a DIY square rubber plug to seal cord in the floor hole. Largest wire size available is 14/3. Reel includes a 13 amp CB. Too small for some needs but fine for my requirements.

Having only drove an NCV3 for a couple of weeks, how long does it take to look in you rear view mirrors, and figure out what you are looking at? I always think it is the mirrors on the side of a following vehicle

I am also one who does not want any exterior indications of this being an RV, hence the cord through the boot under the seat. The cord is actually a surge suppressor power strip, and runs anything inside that would be 110V. The male end of the cord hangs underneath the drivers door and stays stashed on the rear heater pipes when not in use. Except for the Thule rack with solar panel (very hard to see from the ground, doesn't look like a solar panel), there is no indications of this being a live-in rig from the outside.
Jef

cedarsanctum said:

there is no indications of this being a live-in rig from the outside.
Jef

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Now I want to tag your Sprinter with a magnetic stick on sign that says, "If this van's a rockin'...."


.... but I won't. You have way too many brains for me to consider doing anything that might inspire "payback."


-Jon

thanks for the replies,