Fuel Filter Help

blessedmomof8

blessedmomof8

New member
So I've been looking through my owner's manual to see what regular intervals are needed for maintenance. The service manual didn't have anything written in it, so that leaves us to guess what things were worked on and when.

When we bought our '05 on the 3rd of June this year the MB dealership changed the air cabin filter and oil filter (drained and changed the oil too) and topped off the other fluids. However, they didn't change the fuel filter. I only know this because I contacted the dealership again to ask about where the water separator hose was, since there was none on top of the fuel filter.

(I'm including a picture of the top of the fuel filter and the picture of what it should look like from the owner's manual.)

This leads me to ask these questions. What is the interval for changing the fuel filter? I never could find it in the owner's or service manual.
Also, does anyone know what the hose part number is or who I should go to for that part? The previous owner did write down the part number for the fuel filter, so I'm guessing he might have changed it at least once. But since the other filters were changed in June we'd just like to go ahead and change out the fuel filter too so we know when they were all changed. Our van currently has 67,000 miles on it.

Thanks!
 

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WAYNERODD

Member
10,000 miles is what the manual says. I change mine at 20,000 and have had no problems. I change it with every other oil change. The line on the top is not needed, but if you are looking for a cheap replacement try some fish tank air line. Most of the ones I work on are missing this tube. Hope this helps, Wayne
 
autostaretx

autostaretx

Erratic Member
What is the interval for changing the fuel filter?
Click to expand...
30,000 miles.

It's not -obvious- in the Owners Manual, but the way they phrase/show it is (page 265 for 2005):
Oil change interval every 10,000 miles,
"Maintenance Service" every 30,000 miles.

Then, on page 268 -and- 269 they list what a "Maintenance Service" entails.
Page 269 mentions "fuel filter renewal".

(after computer manuals, Owners Manuals are easy...)
--dick
 
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nebep

Member
BlessedMomOf8 - Looks to me like you have the "newer" motor where the fuel pump is electrical and in the tank. Once you have the new one in, I've found the following to work well for getting it to start:

1. Turn the key from OFF to RUN, and back OFF, (Run being the last position of the key before the vehicle cranks.), three to four times (leave the key in the RUN position for 5-10 seconds before turning it back to OFF.)

2. Bump the starter two to three times.

3. Repeat step 1 a few more times.

Usually once I've done this, she fires up pretty good without much hesitation at all. During the first step, if you listen closely you can hear the pump in the tank start to run.

Good luck, Hope this helps!
 
mackconsult

mackconsult

New member
Actually I think that lift pump will run for 30 seconds before shutting off.

nebep said:
BlessedMomOf8 - Looks to me like you have the "newer" motor where the fuel pump is electrical and in the tank. Once you have the new one in, I've found the following to work well for getting it to start:

1. Turn the key from OFF to RUN, and back OFF, (Run being the last position of the key before the vehicle cranks.), three to four times (leave the key in the RUN position for 5-10 seconds before turning it back to OFF.)

2. Bump the starter two to three times.

3. Repeat step 1 a few more times.

Usually once I've done this, she fires up pretty good without much hesitation at all. During the first step, if you listen closely you can hear the pump in the tank start to run.

Good luck, Hope this helps!
Click to expand...
 
blessedmomof8

blessedmomof8

New member
Doug and Richard...are you saying that the current clamps that are on the fuel filter should be replaced with something different? :idunno:

You have to speak (write) a little slower for me. I'm a lady who can read a book and figure things out myself, but very often I call unknown (to me) items strange made up names. Like...."that clamp thingy-ma-bob" or "that little doo-lolly on the top of that thingy over there." :laughing:

And Dick...thanks...the manual was very confusing, but you've helped me to see the light on that issue. It's all becoming clear (as mud) to me. :)

Wayne...thanks for the work-a-round with fish tank tubing. That...I can handle! And from the owners manual it does look like the fuel filter wouldn't need to be changed every 10K miles because it says (gosh...it's late and my manual is in the van...but it says something like...) if you don't drain the water off you would need to change it sooner to every 10K miles.

Y'all have been very helpful. Thanks! :thumbup:
 
jdcaples

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
blessedmomof8 said:
Also, does anyone know what the hose part number is or who I should go to for that part?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Interestingly enough, the Electronic Parts Catalog (http://epc.startekinfo.com) for another 2005 Sprinter shows your filter w/o the hose that is often found both fitted to the top of the fuel filter/water separator, and which functions as a clean/tidy way to remove water in the fuel filter.

I recommend you contact your favorite MB dealership to sort out the part number/if you can fit a WIF hose to it.

Alternatively, you could call Andy Bittenbinder at 412-366-6165.

-Jon
 
Altered Sprinter

Altered Sprinter

Happy Little Vegemite
blessedmomof8 said:
Doug and Richard...are you saying that the current clamps that are on the fuel filter should be replaced with something different? :idunno:
The clamps you have are aftermarket and they have two faults: One depending on the quality of course, that is the way it locks on separate rungs they can slip back a notch as the rubber line on compression .

If the original clamp's were removed for the latter ones rubber lines! then you have a depression in the profile of the original rubber,of which the aftermarket clamp will not fully seal off or clamp the line, resulting in blow back of fluids or weapage.
You have to speak (write) a little slower for me. I'm a lady who can read a book and figure things out myself, but very often I call unknown (to me) items strange made up names. Like...."that clamp thingy-ma-bob" or "that little doo-lolly on the top of that thingy over there." :laughing:

And Dick...thanks...the manual was very confusing, but you've helped me to see the light on that issue. It's all becoming clear (as mud) to me. :)

Wayne...thanks for the work-a-round with fish tank tubing. That...I can handle! And from the owners manual it does look like the fuel filter wouldn't need to be changed every 10K miles because it says (gosh...it's late and my manual is in the van...but it says something like...) if you don't drain the water off you would need to change it sooner to every 10K miles.

Y'all have been very helpful. Thanks! :thumbup:
Click to expand...
MB change the fuel filters another maker I suppose , what I found was on the latter replacement MB filter,on the old the old rubber lines would not marry up to the metal flute design profile, both were different in their profile in the thickness of the metal tube and the angle of the flute.
In discovery I found that the original clips would not fully seal ,as to the compression of the profile of the rubber lines.
Simply put I replaced the lines with new and then re-used the existing MB OEM clips for the perfect fit.
I have never had weapage or blow-back of any description :note I have seen the later clamps fail on many vehicles.resulting in an untidy engine bay from fluid loss.
DSC00165 (Custom).JPG
Both filters are MB OEM
DSC00166 (Custom).JPG
Both model number OEM filters have two thickness variations on the metal pipe, and the flute taper vary's.
 DSC00169 (Custom).JPG
If using an after market filter then, again check the thickness of the pipe and taper profile, that will allow the rubber line to refit to existing previous position; check how much the rubber lines have compressed.
If using Original OEM clamps! Line them up to existing dimpled profile, of the existing old OEM rubber line compression profile for a perfect fit.

What I am attempting to explain is be aware of the angle of the flute as to replacing an OEM clamp with an aftermarket clamp! that may not seal on an old compressed rubber line, the change of failure is highly possible.
Richard
​
 
N

nebep

Member
We have two different ones here - look closely at the original posters pictures - she has what I understand to be the "50 state motor" - I don't know how it was designated - notice the sensor on the TOP vs. the bottom...

(All just FYI....if you didn't already know..)
 
Altered Sprinter

Altered Sprinter

Happy Little Vegemite
nebep;9 We have two different ones here - look closely at the original posters pictures - she has what I understand to be the "50 state motor" - I don't know how it was designated - notice the sensor on the TOP vs. the bottom... [/CENTER said:
(All just FYI....if you didn't already know..)
Click to expand...
: Yes I know but it's for your emissions etc
We do not have EGR external valves waste of space,[As to the never-ending problems you have with them] however the filter has the same flutes ,the reference in principle is the clamps being used, those are not MB .and they will and have failed on your engines as to showing up on older threads from time to time.
Richard
DSC00159 (Custom).JPG

DSC00161 (Custom).JPG​
 
autostaretx

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Waynerodd wrote:
So when are we supposed to changed our fuel filters?
I would love to change mine at 30,000.
Click to expand...
Blessedmomof8 has a 2005 model year (like mine). The manual-recommended interval is 30,000 miles.

I don't know Waynerodd's model year, but i believe the 2007-and-newer manual-recommended interval is 10,000 miles.
The owners manual (i looked through a 2008 and 2010) only speaks of the ASSYST telling you when a two-wrench Maintenance Service is due.

If your Sprinter runs roughly and is starved for fuel, you may have waited too long (or ingested dirty fuel).

...your mileage may vary...
--dick
 
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