P 2016 code Fuel pressure decelleration malfuntion.

theburgboy

New member
I have a 2004 Sprinter that when first started runs great but after only a minute or two looses power and will only go to about 2100 rpm. I am assuming that this is "LHM" limp home mode. I have code P2016- fuel rail malfuntion, fuel flow below quantity and Fuel rail pressure decelleration malfunction. Any ideas on what to check for this code?
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
The fuel filter change caused the symptom.

Just trying to narrow things down...like did you do anything prior to this error happening? I'm not saying that you did. A lot of the questions here mention a failure but never mention that they just did a recent service that could have induced a problem.
 

theburgboy

New member
The fuel filter change caused the symptom.

Just trying to narrow things down...like did you do anything prior to this error happening? I'm not saying that you did. A lot of the questions here mention a failure but never mention that they just did a recent service that could have induced a problem.
Ok so you asked for it now your going to get it. Here is the complete painfully, agonizing, dreadfully, sad sad story. On April 17 2010 I purchased this 2004 Dodge Sprinter with 185k from a small time dealer that I found on Craig's list. After only driving it for about 200 miles I was driving down the road and the alternator light came on so I immediately pulled over to see why. What I found was that the harmonic balancer "HB" was laying in the radiator shroud. So I towed the van the 15 or so miles back to my house. I got online to see what all was needed to fix this problem. After some research I decided to tackle the job myself. So I removed the radiator assembly, timing chain cover, and bottom timing chain gear. What I found was that about 1 inch of the bolt that holds the HB on was broken off inside the crank shaft. So I drilled a small hole in the bolt and removed it from the crankshaft with an ease-out. The bolt came out with know problem in fact it almost came out turning it by hand. Know threads were damaged or anything. So I got a new bolt and kerf key and reassembled everything. When I got it all back together to my amazement it cranked right up. Everything seemed to be fine. The next day I drove the van about 70 miles and I was driving on a rural hwy going between 60 and 65 mph, I exited the hwy pulled to a stop sign and when I went to take off I noticed that I had no power engine would only turn about 2200 rpm. so I limped on about the 15 or so miles back to my house. I then took it to a local big truck diesel mechanic who is a friend of mine. what he found was that the hose from the turbo resonator to the charge air cooler had come loose. I guess when I put it back together i didn't tighten the hose clamp. So I put it back on and it ran like a champ. Brace yourself this is where the story gets really really good. This mechanics shop is only about two miles from my house. So after putting the hose back on and feeling really good about my accomplishment, I started the 2 mile trek home. I got about one mile from the shop and the dreaded alternator light came on again. So I immediately pulled over again and guess what? Yep the HB was off again. Except this time it didn't come all the way off. NOOOO it stayed on the crankshaft wobbling around and destroyed the HB. So I again pulled it home and redone the job I had done only two days earlier. It seems as though 90Lbs of torque which is what I put on the HB bolt is about 1/3 what it should have been. At any rate I tore it all down replaced the HB and put it back together. This time it again fired right up, but would only go about a mile or so at full power and then would go back to no power. I could stop turn engine off then immediately start it back up and would have full power for another mile or so and then repeat. so I then took it to another friend who has a scanner. He hooked up the scanner and it came back with the code P2016. It had this same code listed 3 times but after each time was written a different explanation. The first explanation was- "fuel rail malfunction fuel flow below quantity". The second explanation was-:"Fuel rail pressure deceleration malfunction" and last explanation simply said- "fuel rail pressure malfunction". So there you have it the whole bloody painfull story. By the way I have not replaced the fuel filter because the guy I bought it from gave me a carfax report that showed it had been serviced on a regular basis, and there was also a sticker in the wind shield from a local Houston area Dodge dealer that showed that the next oil change is not due for anther 8000 miles so I assumed that it has probably been changed. I did remove the fuel filter and was able to blow through it with no problem and the fuel that came out of it was very clean. My knowledge and experience with diesel engines is very limited but I thought that the pressure at the fuel rail was significantly higher than that at the fuel filter. I was wondering if I could temporarily bypass the fuel filter to see if that was the problem. You see my problem is that I live 100 miles from Houston and have to wait 2 to 3 days every time for parts to come to the local dodge dealership. I also have discovered that my check engine light is inoperable. It does not come on when the key is turned to the on position and I have never seen it come on. So there you have it the whole painfull story aren't you glad you asked. Thanks for your time. And I hope I somewhat have amused you. Thanks, Jimmy
 

Dougflas

DAD OWNER
why not spend the 30 bucks or so and change the fuel filter? that way you know for sure it is not a problem. BTW I order parts from Europarts in California. Great service.
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
It seems as though 90Lbs of torque which is what I put on the HB bolt is about 1/3 what it should have been.
Always use a NEW bolt and torque in 2 stages. For the early style crankshaft key and keyway and bolt-
Stage 1 is 240 ft./lbs.
Stage 2 is an ADDITIONAL 1/4 turn (90 degrees). Doktor A
 

theburgboy

New member
Update: I still need help. I have now replaced the Fuel filter and EGR valve but still have the same problem. When I first start it everything is fine go 1 to 2 miles power goes away. Any suggestions anyone? Thanks, Jimmy
 

theburgboy

New member
P2016 Intake Manif Runner Pos Sensor/Switch Circuit Low Bank1

This is what I find as the error. I guess the next thing is the verify that there is no chaffing on the wire bundles where this sensor is routed through, like in this post...

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=28526&postcount=1
Checked and can find no sign of wire chaffing. I am electrician by trade so I know what to look for in this area. Any other ideas? Thanks, Jimmy
 

mackconsult

New member
Last night after replacing my turbo resonator I cleared all the error codes and took it for a drive.

Still getting my glow plug error, which I will work on this fall.

Also had the following:

P2016 Rail pressure monitoring via volume control valve : the rail pressure is to high

I am pretty sure my current pump installation is doing good on the WVO side as far as pressure and flow. Looking to the "senior" people in this forum on the following idea.

There are two returns on my vehicle. One from the injection pump, and one from the rail. The both plumb back to the filter in my WVO system. I am thinking that a check valve on the rail return might be a solution for this problem.

Any thoughts ......... I am willing to try this modification and report back, but I want to make sure there would be no issues in doing this. I can't think of any per say .......

Dr. A -> can you give me a description on what the volume control valve is?????
 

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