antenna replacement

[surlyoldbill]

The antenna on my 2003 passenger van has pushed one too many low tree branches out of the way on back roads. The housing had split open, the mast was held on by JB weld and GOOP. Reception would come and go when I went over bumps, the inner workings has dirt and corrosion. Time to replace it.

I know in this day and age of satellite radio that AM/FM is obsolete, but I still like the "free" aspect of it, and the local news.

Parts:
I could have ordered a new OEM antenna, I never checked on the $, but I'm sure they are expensive. A universal fit rubber mast antenna is about $12; however, I think the part that extends into the cab is too long, and would push on the headliner. I never tried a dry-fit because removal and installation of the headliner is the most time consuming part of the procedure. I chose to go with a generic amplified antenna that adheres to the inside of the windshield, and to cover the mounting hole with a fake "sharkfin" antenna. I needed a 4' antenna cord extension, $3, and the fake antenna was $5.
*I later found a working aftermarket amplified sharkfin antenna on Ebay, but I had already purchased my parts
*I also discovered that you can install a generic amplified antenna inside some of the fake antenna housings, but the one I purchased was too small

Process:
You need to remove the headliner to do this, there is no other way. Removal requires taking off the A pillars, pulling off the door flashing strip down to the level of the dash, snapping the B pillars free down to the floor, removal of sunvisors, grab handle and map light. At that point, you can remove the front headliner. The part that connects to the middle/next headliner is secured by trim snaps, and a two-pronged trim removal tool is helpful so you don't break the snap-ins. Easiest method is to squeeze together the front a little and lower it, and then pivot the rear section forward to clear the middle/next headliner.

Once exposed, you can see the wiring and attachment for the OEM antenna. Removal requires a 5-6mm allen wrench, the hole is square, so there is only one screw and some tabs that keep the assembly from spinning.

You need to take out your radio to disconnect the antenna wire, and removal of the glovebox and popping open the airbag door helps to run new wire. Leave the power wire intact so it can be used for the new amplified antenna or another device (it turns on when the radio turns on if you wire correctly or have OEM radio). You may also wish to run another wire or two at this time to power future devices; LCD screen, radar detector, clearance lights, etc. Coil them up and place them where they can be reached through the map light cavity.
Also, speaker wires are accessible and can be spliced or tapped at this time. The passenger side wire code is Brown with lt. blue stripe/White with a lt. blue stripe, Driver side is Brown with a dark blue stripe/White with a dark blue stripe; I don't know which is pos and which is neg, but I assume that white is neg., as long as they're both the same they will be in phase. The wire code for the antenna power +12v is black with a dark red stripe.

In my case, because I was not using the stock antenna hole, I sealed it with foil/rubber plumbers tape on the inside, the fake antenna on the outside also seals it. The stock antenna has a closed cell foam double stick gasket that seals around the mounting hole, and so does the fake one.

After prettying up the wiring with shrink tubing on the aftermarket antenna, I tested it in a few locations. I had hoped to be able to simply place it under the headliner out of sight, but the AM reception went to zero when covered by the body (which is why placing it inside a housing on the outside of the body would be best). I installed it about 1" (2.5cm) below the body on the inside of the windshield, it is hardly noticeable above and behind the rearview mirror. I spliced the power wire to the stock antenna power wire, and routed the antenna wire down the original path, needing a few feet of extension to reach the radio.

While everything was exposed I installed some insulation on the wide expanse of steel, which noticeably but not drastically cut down some of the noise inside.

conclusion:
The new antenna works OK but not great. I get some cross-fading when I drive near broadcast antennas. It is about the same as the stock antenna for AM reception, and better for FM. If I had to do it over again, I would buy an external sharkfin amplified antenna for $30 on Ebay. Remember, the reason I did not just get an OEM antenna was because it was vulnerable to pushing tree limbs out of the way.

pics not in order, last pic should be first, otherwise OK
rt side exposed
with new insulation and antenna wired
fake antenna
headliner removed

[abittenbinder]

Originally Posted by surlyoldbill

The antenna on my 2003 passenger van has pushed one too many low tree branches out of the way on back roads.

You need to remove the headliner to do this, there is no other way.

I routinely replace complete broken antenna assemblies without removing the headliner.

If you're nimble and have long arms you can work with the A pillar covers off, the sun visors removed and the upper door weatherstrip pushed aside and just drop the front edge of the headliner and work in the ensuing gap while sitting on the dash. Yes, even high roof models are accessible. Doktor A

[surlyoldbill]

Yes, you could do that. I prefer not to work in tight spaces in contorted postures if possible, and it's simply a small additional step to fully remove the headliner.

[Sacto John]

Would you mind linking to the amplified shark fin antenna you found on e-bay? I searched and could not find one.

[surlyoldbill]

Originally Posted by Sacto John

Would you mind linking to the amplified shark fin antenna you found on e-bay? I searched and could not find one.

It was on there a few weeks ago, I haven't looked since then. Another option might be to identify a likely OEM antenna from another vehicle, like a BMW X5, and see what they go for.

[surlyoldbill]

Originally Posted by Sacto John

Would you mind linking to the amplified shark fin antenna you found on e-bay? I searched and could not find one.

I just did a search for "shark fin antenna" and turned up several results; look for ones that are about $20 or more, the ones for less are all dummy antennas.

[ohlsonmh]

Originally Posted by surlyoldbill

Yes, you could do that. I prefer not to work in tight spaces in contorted postures if possible, and it's simply a small additional step to fully remove the headliner.

This is an interesting thread. I wonder about these tiny amplified antennas, my radio is noisy, and sometimes gets better/worse (but never very good) after hitting a bump, yet yhese antennas seem so small, considering the wavelength of AM signals.

I have to wonder if it could be an antenna connection: the dealer was never able to improve it under warranty.

My "used" 2004 did come with a sunroof/vent, so apparently that is the reason that I can get to the antenna base through the interior light socket without removing the headliner.

Do you think a "Shark Fin" antenna might help? It would be nice, too, not to have that antenna sticking up even further than the roof, although I can see if it's going to hit anything through the sunroof.

I had even considered getting an old CB "Firestick" and mounting it on the bumper - these antennas REALLY worked great for AM reception 'way back when!

Any insights would be appreciated - I only really care about AM, but I live a long way out in the hills and signals are weak - although my Mini Cooper with a similar length antenna works just fine.

Thanks, -Oly

[hkpierce]

Originally Posted by ohlsonmh

my radio is noisy, and sometimes gets better/worse (but never very good) after hitting a bump,
Thanks, -Oly

If you search YahooSprinterVan, there are many posts for the 2002-2003 Sprinters that had poor grounding on the antennas that affects the AM reception most(with bumps affection reception). It is never good even after correction.

[surlyoldbill]

Ohlson, I'm curious about your sunroof. I purchsed a factory sunroof a few years ago, and haven't installed it yet. According to the metal pressings on the roof, it should be located above the first bench seat. Is there a gasket involved, like the side windows, or is the frame tight to the metal on top?

[ohlsonmh]

Originally Posted by surlyoldbill

Ohlson, I'm curious about your sunroof. I purchsed a factory sunroof a few years ago, and haven't installed it yet. According to the metal pressings on the roof, it should be located above the first bench seat. Is there a gasket involved, like the side windows, or is the frame tight to the metal on top?

Surlyold bill, sorry it took a day or two to reply.

I THINK my sunroof is original - can't be sure because the car was "used" (2,400) miles.

The sunroof is roughly the size & shape of one I saw on this forum - say, 1 foot by 2 feet, with no curtains, just smoked glass that lifts about 2 inches at the rear by twisting a large knob.

Location? - Right above the front driver/passenger seating with the front edge an inch or two behind the rooftop antenna.

I can't supply a photo just now as the van is on a camping trip in Arizona for about another week. I don't recall any gaskets, but can't check now - I'll look when the van gets home in about a week.

After that, I'd be happy to supply a pic.

I do wish it had those curtains - the sun gets pretty hot through it! I'd happily give you the sunroof, but it would leave a big hole - I don't "DO" sun very well, being a redhead. It does help with ventilation, though.

-Oly (Surly old Erik ;-)