NAFTA NCV3 - Transmission Service Workspace Challenges - one down, one to go

Status
Not open for further replies.

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
I always plan ahead. Sometimes I make things more difficult than necessary.

With my Sprinter, it's just me, the van and Sprinter-Source. As much as I like this community, I need to own my Sprinter's maintenance.

The attached PDF file details two challenges I encountered in evaluating my ability to service my transmission, much like Sikwan did in his spectacular write up NAG1 Transmission Fluid Change.

If you do a search on Sprinter Source today, you'll find nothing about the NCV3 twist to this project.

I started. I encountered two challenges; one I negotiated, dropping the pan.

The other one still has me baffled and fuming. If you have solved challenge two (gaining access to the torque converter), please contribute to this thread.

-Jon
 

Attachments

sikwan

06 Tin Can
Maybe a Hex equivalent bolt can be used instead of the factory Torx bolt for easier access?

I wonder while removing the pan, instead of pulling the pan rearward, it could be tilted downward and slid sideways.
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
Maybe a Hex equivalent bolt can be used instead of the factory Torx bolt for easier access?

I wonder while removing the pan, instead of pulling the pan rearward, it could be tilted downward and slid sideways.
Hex bolt instead of torx? I don't see why not, but there's still precious little room there.

If you're talking about removing the pan, I got it off w/o hoisting the rear of the transmission, by tilting downward twisting it sideways, but the filter came with the pan.

I tried to put it back the same way and the filter fell out of the valve body when the edge of the pan scraped passed during realignment.... then the filter's neck acted as a stand-off, preventing (thankfully) the pan from cozying up close enough for the clamps to grip.

I don't see how you can avoid hoisting the rear of the tranny; but I'm not the best wrench turner. I'd love to see how to do it w/o a floor jack... and expose the torque converter drain to a tool, as well.


-Jon
 
Last edited:

rlent

New member
Novel thought:

While I am all for the joy of self-exploration and discovery, I'm not entirely sold on the merits of reinventing the wheel, therefore .... why not just stop by a dealership and talk to the wrench who does the NCV3 transmission services on a regular basis ...... and see if there is some special procedure, or tools, that are required ?

I know that will reduce the fun factor by an order of magnitude or so, but hey what's the loss of a little fun in the interests of keeping the Sprinter forum community informed and up-to-date on the latest tips and tricks .....
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
I spoke with a well-seasoned, experienced Sprinter technician after my initial determination that you have to jack the tranny... he told me that's the only way to do it.

I forgot to ask if there's a secret to the torque converter other than removing hardware.... Eventually, I'll ask. In the meantime, I want to leverage the collective wisdom.

-Jon
 

rlent

New member
Serious design flaw .... :bash:

Is jacking it documented in the service manual/procedure from Daimler ?
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
Serious design flaw .... :bash:

Is jacking it documented in the service manual/procedure from Daimler ?

I don't know. I can't get Daimler documentation. I tried and ran into a Daimler barrier: Must have a credit card associated with a billing address outside the NAFTA region.

The instructions in the Chrysler XML/Active-X encumbered CD with no search function looks a lot like the T1N content, if you ask me.

This speed bump in the maint procedure's trivial once you know the unpublished info. I published it. Now everyone can know. If someone knows a better way, please share; and while you're at it, if you know how to get a tool into the access hole for the torque converter, share that too.

....or did I photograph the wrong rubber cover?

-Jon
 

rlent

New member
Jon,

On the T1N the rubber plug/cover on the bellhousing that exposes the TC drainplug is designed to be removed - the hole in the rubber plug is there merely to allow water to a place to drain I believe - not to try and stick anything (like a tool) thru ....

Of course I can see that you may well have clearance issues beyond that ....... 1/4" drive tools ..... a long extension with a u-joint ..... dunno ...... looks pretty tight ..... I don't envy you.
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
Woah.... Perfect. I didn't think of a small extension on a 1/4" drive, maybe a magnetic bit to grab the fastener to keep it from falling when you put it back.... unless it's not magnetic.....

Thanks, man.

I knew if I brought it up, someone would tell me what I wasn't seeing. :)

-Jon
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
mnnt02,

Thank you for letting me know you found this useful and letting me know that I wasn't the only one willing to write about knocking the filter out by removing the pan.

Have you replaced your filter yet? If so, how'd it go?


-Jon
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
After surveying the service info content www.startekinfo.com (available at this writing), it's apparent to me that the transmission must be lifted to drop the pan.

The steps are spelled out in WIS document number ar2710d7030h.

The bottom line is that the designers want the entire assembly to float while you're dropping the pan.

The service guidance indicates I should have moved the front (engine side) of the transmission up (by pressing upwardly against the transverse spring near the forward cross-member), as well as lifting the rear of the transmission.

I don't know if I'll be doing that in the future since everything worked ok using long bolts and a jack for me.

The instructions for draining the torque converter are in document ar2700d020001a.

Regardless, I'm closing down this thread since the MB service info has answered my question.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Top Bottom