|
|
|
|||||||
| T1N Talk General Discussions related to T1N Sprinters. |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 38
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
|
I bought a 2004 Sprinter about a month ago. I found it on ebay but bought it straight from the seller. It had 152,000 miles on it and I've put about 2,000 on it. It had a refrigeration unit on it which I had removed. The nice thing about that is that the back is insulated and it stays nice and cool back there even on a 90+ sunny day. When the compressor for the refrigeration unit was removed I had a second alternator installed. That powers a separate electrical system for the cargo area. I've got 12v lighting and a 20 amp 120v inverter for my power tools.
The A/C compressor quit within 3 weeks so it's been replaced. I have filled the van with my tools and supplies so that it weights in at just a tad under 8,000 lbs. I drive mostly local at between 35 and 45 mph. It's suburbs type of stop and go traffic. I might pull a trailer once in a blue moon to haul trash from the job site. I have averaged about 8,000 miles a year on my work van in the past but this one is fun to drive and gets better mileage so I'll probably do about 10/12k miles a year or so with the Sprinter. They said that the oil was changed, new air filter, and new fuel filter. They used 15w40 oil but I don't know what brand. The air filter is new (although they didn't put the cover back on properly) and the fuel filter looks new. The coolant looks new (bright green). I pulled the plastic cover on top and looked at the injectors (after reading about it here) and they look good but I found that the cover is missing 3 of the 7 screws. The foam inside the cover is oil soaked but it looks like it could have come from spilling the oil while filling. I looked around and I found the hydraulic control unit has a screw that's backing out (about half way). It looks like it takes 6 screws which would mean that the bottom 2 are missing. Should I just get 2 more screws and tighten all of them or should I have someone look at it? I've been doing a lot of reading here and I'm a little confused. Probably due to information overload. Any comments are welcome. Here are a few more questions. I assume that I should change the oil every 12 months since I don't put a lot of miles on it although my trips are usually short. What oil should I use? My mechanic suggests Rolletta T 15w40 twice a year but that seems like a lot of oil to go through for the miles I drive. I also see that most prefer synthetic here. I suppose that it would be a good idea to change the filter and fluid in the transmission since I have no idea when it was last done. I was thinking that I'd get the MB kit from europarts-sd. Should I just replace the fluid in the pan or drain the rest of the transmission as well? If I should replace all of the fluid then how do I do that? BTW, the red locking top for the dipstick tube is missing. The black cover is there but the red piece isn't. Is that needed? I had a 2001 Dodge Cummins diesel a few years ago and changed all of the fluids out to Amsoil. I used a by-pass filter for the engine oil. Part of that change out was replacing the gear oil in both axels. I did notice a difference when I did that. Would it be a good idea to change the rear axel oil or is it best to just leave it alone? I'm getting about 19 mpg. I'm going to get a scanguage to help me increase my mpg. Is there anything else I can do that will help increase the mpg? My objective is to get this van to last a looooong time. There are a few small rust spots (like the roof seams) that I'm going to have fixed while they are small. I would love for this to be my last work van. For that to happen it would have to last 20 more years. At 10/12k a year I would think that it could be accomplished. So what do I need to know in order to attempt a run at that goal? |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 38
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
|
BTW, I do have what I think is the rumble noise. It happens at only very low rpms and light acceleration. If I let my foot off of the peddle and then accelerate slightly harder it disappears.
Am I right in assuming that this is the harmless rumble and not shutter? |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 | ||||
|
Poly - Thread Finder
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: The Falls of Niagara, USA
Posts: 8,328
Thanks: 3,055
Thanked 3,264 Times in 2,165 Posts
|
Quote:
The coolant should be GO5 rated. The stuff I bought was not green. If yours is not GO5 rated it can reduce your chances of a long lived Sprinter. Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
__________________
NAFTA 2004 OM647 140 2500 Std Roof >255,000 mi. Paint=Arctic Whitewash DAD "My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." is expressly implied. Keeping me on topic will be as successful as herding cats. Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus "There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR Some people have 10 years experience, others just 1 year 10 times. |
||||
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Thumb of Michigan
Posts: 390
Thanks: 53
Thanked 90 Times in 48 Posts
|
Greg,
AP is absolutely correct in his cautions. Some of the folks who do such service may not have access to the proper fluid specifications for your sprinter and as a result may not service your van properly. If you are unsure about what was used you may want to do it yourself. To get to know your van I would suggest that you carefully peruse the T1N write-ups and database for general info and frequently check the discussion to see what's current. The search function can be very handy - for example, I found these: Changing transmission fluid - http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2557 Oil recommendations - http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...&highlight=oil Source of an owners manual if you don't have one - http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...ht=2004+manual Other things you might consider that have come up recently are 1.) the need to flush brake fluid 2.) Failure of harmonic balancer and/or belt tensioners, etc. 3.)The EGR valve has also been known to cause problems, especially in the earlier years. 4.) If your 2004 has a turbo resonator that might be an issue for you as well. Your rumble strip noise may be due to 1.) fluid nearing the end of it's useful life or 2.) Low tranny fluid level. Be sure to follow instructions as to type of fluid (Sprinter/Crossfire) and how to properly check it. You'll need a service dipstick for this. When you change the fluid you will wan to drain the torque converter as well. The missing red tab is not by itself important unless you lose the cap which will allow dirt to enter the tranny. I trimmed a red tab so it could be removed and reused. They are designed to lock the cap in place and in normal use must be broken to remove. You get the idea that MB doesn't want you messing with the tranny fluid :-) A good source of parts is http://store.europarts-sd.com/index....S&Category=250 - I've had good luck with them. Please do not get the idea that Sprinters are more trouble prone than any other vehicle. The vast majority of users have little to complain about. That said, there are few mechanics trained to work on them so it is important for an owner to educate themselves as to possible issues and take an active role in their van's maintenance. I carry a few hard to get spares with me but as of yet haven't had any need to use them. Other members of the group have experienced problems and been gracious enough to share their experiences with the rest of us. With such knowledge we are able to do a much better job of maintaining our machines and diagnosing problems when the occur. I don't know if your Sprinter will be the last van you need but there are a lot of high mileage units out there. Keep on top of the maintenance and yours has a chance of being one of them. I have 42000 on mine and drive 12-15 K per year so I'm hoping it will last as long as I need it.... Good luck! Tim
__________________
• Driving "SOKI" (spending our kid's inheritance) a 2006-3500 High roof w/ 158" WB cargo van which I converted to a camper / travel van • Last edited by TimJuhl; 06-07-2009 at 09:48 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,260
Thanks: 57
Thanked 144 Times in 106 Posts
|
While I suppose this is true (tab designed to be broken to be removed), the entire cap/tab assembly can be removed by simply giving it a good pull (and a good push to reinstall)
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: SK CANADA
Posts: 167
Thanks: 1
Thanked 22 Times in 20 Posts
|
Hi. Your transmission has likely been serviced before (but when? since you don't have any records). Interval is supposed to be 60K miles.
I've read that the black tab is the original from the factory and the red tab is for replacement. No tab means it's probably been checked but not necessarily serviced. You can search ebay for the transmission dipstick tool. It's the same tool for the Benz 722.6 transmission. Steve also has a good price on the long life H7 bulbs. Regards, |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 38
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
|
Thank you for help.
I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and change the engine oil and filter, transmission fluid and filter, and I guess I'll also need to change the coolant. I remember when I had my Dodge Diesel truck that it wasn't suppose to have the "green" coolant. I thought that green coolant might not be right so that's why I mentioned the color. Here's my shopping list so far for europarts-sd: Transmission service kit with MB fluid (add an extra liter of fluid & extra plugs with washers) Transmission dip stick Fuel filter (to have on hand in case of bad fuel) oil filter plus many misc parts I understand that I can get the engine oil locally. Now I have to find out about the coolant, more searching. Is it safe to put the front wheels on ramps? I can barely fit under the van. |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 | |
|
..
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,788
Thanks: 106
Thanked 592 Times in 298 Posts
|
Quote:
![]() As long as you ramps are rated for the weight - no problem. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,112
Thanks: 222
Thanked 326 Times in 247 Posts
|
Greg,
At around your mileage I routed a vacation trip through Doktor Attenbinder's outside Pittsburgh. Best time and money I have spent so far. I learned so much about how to take care of my vehicle. The computer diagnostics were very informative. I got a clean bill of health on the 02 and have slept better ever since. The egr valve, serpentine belt, glow plugs come to mind if your local guy is going to do the work. I have only found the Mobil1 0-40w at Super Walmarts and then only some of the time. But I'll generally order a couple of cases off the Web if I have not had a chance to keep my supply up. |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 | |
|
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 38
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
|
Quote:
My Sprinter weights in at just under 8000lbs. My ramps are rated at 6500lbs. Since the rear wheels will be on the ground (only front wheels on the ramps) am I correct to conclude that it will be safe? I would assume that there would be less than 6500lbs on the ramps. I know it may sound like a dumb question but I'd rather be a live dummy then a dead one! |
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|