mb Dealer is handling this.. however I need to get to the bottom of this. I took a ride down there and spoke with the mechanic working on it also reinspected the turbo ( Fins are partially bent & bearing is partially seized.
As it turns out the rubber boot ( which supposedly caused this) is dryed up & hard / I compared this to a brand new mb part down there. Imo the rubber has just overheated and failed over the course of 65k. Now , IMO me as the consumer should be made aware of this maintenance as per the standard A service or B service that MB makes the owners aware of in there standard breakdown.
OR along with dealer I should have been notified as to such bulletins or amendments .. . After all I PAID FOR THIS RIG!
Having been on vacation I have not read any posts for two weeks but this is worthy of comments reading this thread.
First no manufacturer is obliged to notify the customer of service bulletin and advanced service information (ASI's) the factory issues to legitimate dealers. A recall is about the only time the public gets to no know of a problem.
I have reported a few times (as a warning for DIY'rs) that the rubber sleeve should be checked at every service to avoid what you have unfortunately experienced.
I have also noted on forums submission that the "top hat styled sleeve" found on post 2010 CD 16 engines has a tendency of splitting through heat degradation and contingent failure ingestion into the turbo which causes expensive remediation. That's not to state that the earlier orange colored sleeve found on CD14 engines wasn't prone to failure because it is, but much less so!
For info the sleeve on CD14 engines is made of silicon polymer rubber which has a higher heat tolerance whereas the later sleeve is made of BUNA or neoprene material which has a lower heat resistance.
Why the manufacturer resorted to this move is open to conjecture but you may also note the the center heat shield was deleted on CD16 engines.
In fact I have to question the whole intake system from fresh clean air induction to post turbo manifold entry.
For me the whole system is a bloody mess and akin to a pre-production model where the installation has been approved by Engineering and now must be perfected to give reasonable failure free service. The last bit was overlooked from my perspective and the thing hurriedly rushed into production. To reinforce this viewpoint many of the problems you as DIY'rs face is leakage of induced or compressed air from the many points in the flow path to the EKAS manifolding.
For that very reason alone careful attention has to be conducted to the entire induction system at service intervals to ensure service reliability.
Now contributor NobleMercedes has raised a few pertinent points on repairs/service.
When you repair a vehicle (any vehicle ) for profit you are accepting a risk of being blamed for any subsequent failure whether justified or not!
That is why reputable Independents have garage keepers insurance and liability coverage.
In the case of a claim the owner of the shop merely passes the claim to the indemnify who settle the claim one way or other. This is reflected in the shop rate tariff!
Obviously there is a co-pay like any insurance which the shop has to pay if relief is granted. This causes the shop to be diligent on who repairs the vehicle in the shop and quality of service work provided.
Sometimes it better to simply repair the rig on the shop's dime if a mistake has been made.
its that simple!
Cheaper shops which have lower coverage or none at all, most likely have lower skilled techs and less equipment and you run the very real risk of getting a poor or terrible job done which costs more in the long run to put right!
Often at the owners dime!
The same applies to you the DIYr!
A simple mistake can lead to very expensive results these days .
A case study
Not dwelling on the issue here but let's focus in on the simple job of changing the air filter cartridge.
For those that have done it, this often means disconnecting the air intake tube and the atmospheric sensor connector.
Upon refit you pat yourself on the back for a simple job done!
But was it?
Did the air intake at the turbo get dislodged a bit and did that puny looking three pin connector at the atmospheric sensor get connected properly?
Furthermore were the very fine wires connected within it get compromised or damaged?
Do you run it up the street with a scanner reading the activity live data and know what to look for?
Now after a few start cycles you get a CEL on and wonder what the issue is as the vehicle slowly starts to lose power!
Lack of boost maybe, but unseen black smoke is causing heavy contamination within the exhaust system which leads in turn to further more complicated issues as it goes down rapidly.
Or
Maybe you are a putzer style driver that doesn't notice the lower power output until you need it and then you have been driving it for while with the CEL on and wondering what is the problem? In fact its like some reoccurring issue like herpes to some !
A trip to The Zone for a free scan doesn't reveal much and in the end its a detailed scan for $130 that shows a string of codes/faults. OMG!
After much remediation and wallet draining the final issue is there P2623-001 turbo drift at idle!
The root cause of the problem and a hidden overlooked bad connection at the atmospheric sensor (sensors can't jive together) causing the PCM to be unable to compute a boost pressure setting.
Now a pro-shop missed this and changed the exhaust filter after they couldn't get a
satisfactory re-gen.
This whole repair business from simple service activities are fraught with potential problems and its not Granddads Olds anymore.
Take care & be careful
Dennis
Mechanic