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Old 08-08-2008, 10:01 PM   #1
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Default First Oil Change

Hey all,
Time is getting near for our first 10K service which I think all is needed is an oil change for our 2006.

Anyhow, my question to you all, does it "have" to be done by a certified sprinter dealer to keep the warranty intact, or going to a local shop will be okay?

The nearest "sprinter" service dealer is 4 hours away and very inconvenient, however there is a "non certified" sprinter dodge dealer 45 minutes away that has done oil changes before on them and they say no problem

What are your thoughts?

Also is there other work required at 10K?

thank you for the help
scott
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Old 08-08-2008, 10:41 PM   #2
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Default Re: First Oil Change

Do it yourself and save.

http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum...ght=oil+change
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Old 08-09-2008, 12:05 AM   #3
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Default Re: First Oil Change

HK That is great thank you! It even tells me how to reset the ASSYST!

From your PDF, it looks like I should use synthetic with my 06, correct?

Will/would MB/DC honor the home oil change under warranty? (assuming I did everything correct?)

thank you again
scott
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Old 08-09-2008, 01:02 AM   #4
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Default Re: First Oil Change

In the past I owned a VW passat. The only other vehicle I bought brand new. I did all of my own changes and kept the receipts. When the turbo went on the car the dealer covered the work due to having receipts for the oil and falters that was used.

For the Sprinter I do the same thing and also keep a 1/2 quart of the oil that is drained out. I write the date and mileage on the container.
Why I do this i'm not sure. I just do.

Obviously all dealers are different.
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Old 08-09-2008, 01:05 AM   #5
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Default Re: First Oil Change

Here's another vote for doing it yourself...

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...ght=oil+change

...why go through the dealer hassle, unless your HOA doesn't want you doing it.
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Old 08-09-2008, 01:38 AM   #6
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Default Re: First Oil Change

If you have the dealer do it, don't forget the vaseline I had the dealer do the first maintenance and it cost $350 plus tax ... the second one at 20K I believe they wanted $450 ... that is when I learned how to do it myself. Necessity is the mother of invention.
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Old 08-09-2008, 03:28 AM   #7
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Default Re: First Oil Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottym View Post
HK That is great thank you! It even tells me how to reset the ASSYST!

From your PDF, it looks like I should use synthetic with my 06, correct?

Will/would MB/DC honor the home oil change under warranty? (assuming I did everything correct?)

thank you again
scott
FEDERAL LAW DICTATES THAT AUTO-MANUFACTURERS CANNOT REQIRE DEALER MAINTENANCE (LIKE OIL CHANGES) FOR WARRANTEE PURPOSES UNLESS THE DEALER PROVIDES THE SERVICE FREE OF CHARGE .

Two oil specs approved for the 2.7 L I-5 OM647 motor (2006 Sprinter) are MB 228.3 (the 228xx spec is for "Heavy Duty Diesel Trucks") and MB 229.5. (the 229xx spec is for Diesel Autos). The '07 and newer 3.0L V-6 with a Particulate Filter requires MB 228.51 or MB 229.51 (this can also be used on the '06, but is not REQUIRED).
A good standard DIESEL TRUCK oil like Mobil Delvac 1300 Supper 15w-40 or Chevron Delo 400 LE 15w-40 cost around $9/GAllON at WalMart or Costco . Both brands meet the MB 228.3 spec-sheet.. For a 9-10 quart Sprinter oil-change that's still only around $20 .
A Mobil 1 or Delvac 1 Synthetic that meets MB 229.51 costs $25-$40/Gallon. I've heard a number of folks on the Forum say the Mobil 1 formula sold by Daimler-Chrysler Dealers runs from $30-$40/Gallon. That's $60-$90 for a DYS oil change...plus a filter!
IS a Synthetic BETTER???

A resounding "NO" according to the many response I got when I posed the Question on "Bob is the Oil Guy" Forum. The Forum address is http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php My specific question about Sprinter oil is at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1&nt=4&fpart=1

Of course, my question was premised on my service; no temperature extremes, primarily highway miles on a Sprinter RV and 10,000 mile change intervals to meet warrantee requirements (my 2006 Sprinter does not have ASYYST).
The advice (which I believe to be sound) is that Synthetic is worth the price ONLY if you anticipate EXTREME service such as either 1) primarily short-trip driving, 2) Sub-zero start-up conditions or 3) extended change intervals. Check it out yourself, but I concur that Syn-oil is a waste of money for the driving conditions I described. The exception might be IF the ASYYST program would give you 20,000 miles between changes. A good question for the Forum might be whether anyone has been able to nurse 20,000 miles from their ASYYST equipped Sprinter with the use of an MB 229.51 Syn-oil.

I'm also a fan of DYS. Not only will you save hundreds (thousands over the life of the Sprinter), you can be sure it is done right!
Absolutely nothing complicated about an oil change; yet there are jillions of stories of Dealer Shops screwing it up anyway.
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Old 08-09-2008, 05:39 AM   #8
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Default Re: First Oil Change

Hey KL2BE:

How do you keep your records? I have always created a spreadsheet on Excel and filled in the date of change, type of oil, and mileage.
I have a friend who says they will not honor this if there is a warrantee issue unless you have store receipts for the purchase of the supplies? What do you do?

Ken
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Old 08-09-2008, 07:15 AM   #9
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Default Re: First Oil Change

I dunno if I would trust regular old dino oil on a turbo diesel truck motor with 10K oil change intervals ..... less than half that maybe ..... despite whatever opinions might exist on BITOG.

Mercedes, the maker of the engine, recommends a synthetic - I would assume that they do so for a reason. I also understood that Mobil 1 0w40 came as the factory fill for the Sprinter (T1N's)

My wife has a 2000 VW Passat - not a diesel - but it is a 4 cylinder turbo (.... think high temps cooking your oil ....) VW came out with an advisory strongly recommending the use of synthetic oil ..... after they had to replace a number of motors that had blown due to gunking up (you can find discussion of this on the internet - and it isn't only limited to VW)

So to me running cheap oil seems to be a bit of false economy - YMMV.

I regularly get 12K+ to 13K+ per oil change using the ASSYST maintenance indicator - and I have a friend who regularly gets over 15K and sometimes over 18K using ASSYST. Not really sure why he consistently does better than I do ..... other than he has an '05 and I have an '06. Both of us tend to idle alot (which doesn't do anything as far as extending the life of oil) We have both made it a practice to change out the filter only at around 5K to 7K into the oil change - although I didn't do it this last time.

Generally, with the filters I had been using (STP from Autozone - mostly because that was what they had) if I ran a single filter for the entire oil change, the filter would come out somewhat collapsed in the center, showing evidence of high suction with restricted flow. Interestingly this last oil change I switched filters - I had picked up half a dozen Mann's (I think that's what they were) from EuroParts ...... this time the Mann filter showed no evidence of restriction ...... leading me to think that the STP filter (which looks way cheap compared to the Mann) actually may have filter better.

I believe the ASSYST is actually set up to be conservative - and probably recommends service well before it's actually needed, based on the condition of the oil.

I do plan on installing a bypass filter system and trying to extend my oil change interval even further. Attached is a copy of my first oil analysis, done at 117,579 miles - with 14,183 miles since the last change. At that point i was actually somewhere around 300 to 500 miles beyond 0 miles remaining on the ASSYST - so I was overdue.

I will probably get a TAN done along with another TBN at next oil change - which I plan to do (prior to installing the bypass system) at 17.5 K miles into the current oil change.
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Last edited by rlent; 08-09-2008 at 07:18 AM.
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Old 08-09-2008, 01:01 PM   #10
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Default Re: First Oil Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by rlent View Post
I dunno if I would trust regular old dino oil on a turbo diesel truck motor with 10K oil change intervals ..... less than half that maybe ..... despite whatever opinions might exist on BITOG.
//snip//
VW came out with an advisory strongly recommending the use of synthetic oil ..... after they had to replace a number of motors that had blown due to gunking up (you can find discussion of this on the internet - and it isn't only limited to VW)

//snip//

Generally, with the filters I had been using (STP from Autozone - mostly because that was what they had) if I ran a single filter for the entire oil change, the filter would come out somewhat collapsed in the center, showing evidence of high suction with restricted flow. Interestingly this last oil change I switched filters - I had picked up half a dozen Mann's (I think that's what they were) from EuroParts ...... this time the Mann filter showed no evidence of restriction ...... leading me to think that the STP filter (which looks way cheap compared to the Mann) actually may have filter better.

I believe the ASSYST is actually set up to be conservative - and probably recommends service well before it's actually needed, based on the condition of the oil.

I do plan on installing a bypass filter system and trying to extend my oil change interval even further. Attached is a copy of my first oil analysis, done at 117,579 miles - with 14,183 miles since the last change. At that point i was actually somewhere around 300 to 500 miles beyond 0 miles remaining on the ASSYST - so I was overdue.

I will probably get a TAN done along with another TBN at next oil change - which I plan to do (prior to installing the bypass system) at 17.5 K miles into the current oil change.
I've wondered if using synthetic oil isn't also more important when you're driving for hyper mileage. I'm basing this on my experience with gasoline engines because the ones that don't get run full out seem to have more gunking problems. May not apply to diesels. Just a thought.

Rather than the STP filters filtering better, could the Mann filters have more surface area and better designed media support than the STP filters? That would help prevent collapsing.

Dumb questions:
What's TAN?
What's TBN?
Will your "by-pass" filter just be in parallel with the factory unit?

Thanks in advance.
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