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Old 10-26-2013, 07:30 PM   #1
zipperje
 
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Question Sound deadening / insulation

I am getting started on a basic conversion of stock 2013 Crew 144 High Roof to a comfortable travel van / gear hauler / camper. Step 1 for me is sound deadening / insulation and wall panels.

Looking for some advice from the experienced folks here re: DIY vs. hiring this out. I have a quote from a reputable upfitter of about $4,400 to (1) install sound deadening throughout, adhered to the panels interior side, (2) stuff pink fiberglass insulation in the airspaces (including door panels) and (3) install nice side and ceiling panels to finish the interior. This sounds like it will end up great but is way way more than I intended to spend.

For a DIY option, I would (1) remove the floor panels, wall panels, factory ceiling liner in cargo area myself; (2) have a Line-X shop spray foam walls, floor, ceiling of cargo area with Line-X "Foam-Guard" and (3) install home-built wall paneling, replace factory ceiling liner with home built panels and re-install the factory floor. With this DIY I would likely not insulate door panels or driver ceiling/floor.

Main questions:
(1) Using spray foam, is a sound deadener adhered to the panels also needed or should I expect adequate soundproofing using just the foam?
(2) any experience with the Line-X FoamGuard product? They have several different foam products and I will need to specify either open or closed cell, and a weight.
(3) Any advice about "things that must be done before spray foaming". I already plan to install roof vent/fan and some reinforcement in the wall panels (for bed platform support) before spraying. If I decide to install roof rails, I also would buy OEM part / install before spraying. Anything else recommended before foam goes in?

Thanks a lot in advance for any advice offered!
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:45 PM   #2
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Default Re: Sound deadening / insulation

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Old 10-26-2013, 09:54 PM   #3
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Default Re: Sound deadening / insulation

Spray closed cell foam eliminates any chance of trapped moisture. Important for higher humidity areas, any wet sport, cold weather use where the vents will be closed. Steel walls do not breathe like stickhouse exteriors.

I used Dow Great Stuff foam for the wall cavities and a combo of that and rigid polyisocyanurate foam for the overheads. A messy application but definitely with in the realm of unskilled DIY. Any mistakes easily repairable.

The best deal I saw here was someone who hired a house insulation foamer for $300. A very good deal. (I used about $250 of foam cans for my 158")

I used cheap HD 10' smurf tubes for my ac, dc and stereo runs as conduit before I foamed.

Certainly a good idea to cut all your holes for fan, furnace, windows, shore power outlet, structural supports, et al before the insulation foaming. I'd think acoustic treatments are thin enough to do before wiring stage.

Dan
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Old 10-27-2013, 06:45 AM   #4
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Default Re: Sound deadening / insulation

Quote:
Originally Posted by d_bertko View Post
The best deal I saw here was someone who hired a house insulation foamer for $300.
Thats what I'm hoping for, I plan to drive to a house where they are already spraying so they can just step into my van and blast away then I drive home with my respirator on., easy for them and cheap for me.
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Old 10-31-2013, 02:41 AM   #5
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Default Re: Sound deadening / insulation

I hope no one at Homeland Security sees you driving around in a Sprinter with a respirator on...

Make sure you fully prep your van and mask anything that you dont want spray foam on.
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Old 11-04-2013, 10:44 PM   #6
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Default Re: Sound deadening / insulation

Fiberglass insulation is one of the worst choices because it will promote rust in the voids and isn't that efficient for R values. Anyone paid to install it, IMO, doesn't care about quality or the client's best interest.
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Old 11-05-2013, 03:29 PM   #7
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Default Re: Sound deadening / insulation

Mass is what blocks sound. That's why lead is the ultimate solution. Unfortunately, lead is both expensive and very heavy.

Spray foam will provide excellent thermal insulation, but I'm not sure about it's sound insulating properties.

My sound insulation research led me to pay particular attention to the floor. I used thick, heavy rubber mats for the floor and Frito runs much quieter now.

I used "mass-loaded vinyl" for the walls. When I rap my knuckles on the tin-drum walls, it sounds like a brick wall.

I found that Dynamat and similar products used in a single layer application offered very little sound blocking.

For more info, see

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14166

Sound insulation info is on later pages.
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Old 11-06-2013, 01:22 AM   #8
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Default Re: Sound deadening / insulation

In my last campervan project I used QuietCar (same product as QuietCoat). Excellent water-based product at $240 for 5 gallons, enough to do a medium Sprinter.
For insulation I installed Enguard, which is spun of fibers made from pre- and post-consumer polyester (soda bottles etc.). Unfortunately the manufacturer discontinued it recently, but thinking ahead, I bought 20 bags. So if anyone else would like some...
The combination of these two 'green' products has no odor, no harmful fibers, and turned a diesel Westfalia into a very quiet and comfortable winter camper.

Edit: the Enguard I have is R-19. 5.5" thick batts. Easily split for thinner walls.

Last edited by westyventures; 11-06-2013 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 11-06-2013, 01:39 AM   #9
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Default Re: Sound deadening / insulation

You don't mention R value comparisons with other types of insulation. How does your material compare??
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Old 11-06-2013, 02:21 PM   #10
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Default Re: Sound deadening / insulation

Quote:
Originally Posted by zipperje View Post
(2) stuff pink fiberglass insulation in the airspaces (including door panels)
Fibreglass insulation is one step removed from asbestos, keep away from it the fibres embed in your skin.
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