Fuel Filter Change

I didn't change my fuel filter at the 10k miles mainly because I didn't know that I had to. It's now at 20k, so I thought I'd include the fuel filter change. This is for a 2006 T1N.

Tools:
T20 Torx Bit (water sensor screws)
T30 Torx Bit (filter body clamp)
Needle nose pliers. (hose clamps)

Part number on the box.


The filter. It comes with two o-rings and a plastic sleeve.

I'm not sure what the plastic sleeve at the base is for. Plastic sleeve is to make up for the difference in circumference near the bottom of the filter, for clamping reasons.

This P/N is different from what is on the box.


Bought some worm gear clamps at the local hardware store (OSH).

99 cents each. Made in China. I hope it lasts.

Removing the clamps.

Original clamp removed.

It looks like you could actually reuse these.

Clamp in its closed position.

Position where to insert needle nose pliers.

The assorted clamps removed from the hoses.


Removal of the water sensor connector.


T30 torx bolt that tightens the clamp that holds the filter.

I had to remove the bolt entirely because the metal tube (out of focus metal tube in center of picture)...

...where the filtered fuel exits blocks the filter from coming out of its mount.

Old...

...New.

T20 torx screws removed.


The sensor is twisted clockwise away from tabs.


Sensor is pulled out.

Notice the 2 o-rings. New ones come with the new filter.

The oem items transferred to the new filter.


Close up of the water sensor and p/n.


Everything reattached.


I didn't prime the filter. I installed it empty. I did go through the process of turning the key to the on position (no engine start) and letting it sit there for 40 seconds. I believe this is the time the system lets the pump run to build pressure into the system.

I think I turned it on for 40 seconds and then off for at least 5 times while I tried to refresh my memory on how to reset the ASSYST. I changed my oil too.

After figuring out how to reset the ASSYST, I reset it and attempted to start the engine. No problems. It just started as if I didn't change the fuel filter.

Good pics. Did you intentionally not fill it Seek, or is the priming from the ignition a specific recommendation? I've not heard of that before.

The CDI system seems very sensitive to fuel filters and air in the fuel.

I hope you don't mind me adding this: some incidents which suggest it may be preferable to fill the filter prior to reinstalling:

1. A colleague ran out of diesel once, got towed to a petrol station and filled up but couldn't get it going again even with repeated doses of EasyStart. Only started when he got a small funnel and filled the filter (instead of removing it).

2. Another instance where colleague ran out of diesel, couldn't get it started again at the petrol station, burnt starter motor out trying to get it going. Back in the workshop it started fine with fuel in the filter (and a new starter!). Suggest previous starter wasn't in the best of health anyway.

3. Another instance where air was trapped in the fuel filter during installation. Symptoms were rough idle and tripping into Safe Mode. Cured by replacing fuel filter.

4. Extended auxiliary heater use pulling diesel back down the fuel lines through capilliary action, introducing air. Symptoms are EDC light comes on, ECU reverts to Safe Mode. Resolved by rebooting ECU and running at tick over for a short period to establish fuel again.

They just don't seem to tolerate air in the fuel. If yours isn't running right recommend changing the fuel filter first. Oh, and don't run out of fuel in the first place.

Simon

Seek,


Good Job.....


Happy to see that it went much smoother than my first attempt!!!

Nice write up, great pictures.
I did leave the water drain open so air could escape as filter got primed from low pressure pump, maybe I didn't need to do that.
Changing filter is so easy I carry a spare just in case I get a bad load of fuel could do it along side road. Filters do seem to go 40,000 easy.

Thanks everyone!

mean_in_green said:

Good pics. Did you intentionally not fill it Seek, or is the priming from the ignition a specific recommendation? I've not heard of that before.

Click to expand...

I intentionally did it Simon because I wanted to see whether doing it the ignition way would work. I've read about filling it with fuel, priming it by opening the vent and letting fuel spill out, or just doing the ignition method.

One member (Nocky) did it by just turning the key 10 times and it started right up. He mentioned doing this for he VW TDI's and it worked for his MB CDI.

You are right though, it does say in the service manual that you need to fill the filter with diesel fuel (0.4 liters) before installation.

mean_in_green said:

I hope you don't mind me adding this: some incidents which suggest it may be preferable to fill the filter prior to reinstalling:

Click to expand...

Not at all. We're all here to learn and I would like to know whether I have done something wrong. Maybe it was a fluke that it started.

I know I wouldn't have attempted to start it without at least priming the filter in some way.

Filters do seem to go 40,000 easy.

Click to expand...

Good to know, because dealers are "suggesting" every 10k.

Excellent write up, Seek; perfect for the archives.

Somewhere I read about filling the filter by turning the ignition on but I hesitated to try that in the face of so much verbage telling me to fill it first.

Excellent documentation, Seek.


From reading a different forum, I'm aware of a tool for a clamp that resembles your factory hose clamps, but I'm not certain they are the same clamps.

The tool is the Hazet 798-2 hose clamp pliers (catalog picture below)

On this Hazet URL there's a demonstration movie.

If such a tool is used, is it possible to preserve the factory clamps?

-Jon

Great find Jon!

IMHO, I think you can still reuse the clamps even if you don't have the tool. I just remember reading someone else's comment about the clamps are not reuseable. Looking at the video, it looks like the clamps are reuseable and the tool just makes life easier when reassembling it.

BaywoodBill said:

Excellent write up, Seek; perfect for the archives.

Somewhere I read about filling the filter by turning the ignition on but I hesitated to try that in the face of so much verbage telling me to fill it first.

Click to expand...

Interesting - my manual says the ignition will prime; however, an excellent Sprinter technician at Ilderton Dodge (met by my mis-adventure with the first fuel filter change) and experience say to prime it. Fill it to be safe. Leave it empty to gain experience (it might work on yours).

Tim

Sik,

Where are you purchasing your filters? the link "suppliers" leads to "No parts found" ????

TIA
MC
HNY
JB

Aircraft Wrench said:

Where are you purchasing your filters? the link "suppliers" leads to "No parts found" ????

Click to expand...

I bought them as a kit from this guy...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodg...012QQitemZ220183481091QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

...when I bought it the same kit was $90 shipped.

Or try this...

europarts-sd.com

...they have it .

GREAT WRITE-UP
There are better hose clamps around; the kind where the grooves do not penetrate the band. Heavy-duty clamps are available at West Marine stores if you have one nearby.
On the milage issue; clean fuel is the number-one key to a trouble-free diesel engine. BUT, MB parts are extra pricey. I intend to follow standard marine-industry practice and install a RACOR pre-filter (RACOR cartridge replacements cost about $8 and come in 2, 10 and 30 micron). With a 2 micron pre-filter, the MB filter should last 100k easy.
If I do the RACOR install next summer (my Sprinter is put to bed for the winter) I'll post pictures.

KL2BE said:

GREAT WRITE-UP
There are better hose clamps around; the kind where the grooves do not penetrate the band. Heavy-duty clamps are available at West Marine stores if you have one nearby.
On the milage issue; clean fuel is the number-one key to a trouble-free diesel engine. BUT, MB parts are extra pricey. I intend to follow standard marine-industry practice and install a RACOR pre-filter (RACOR cartridge replacements cost about $8 and come in 2, 10 and 30 micron). With a 2 micron pre-filter, the MB filter should last 100k easy.
If I do the RACOR install next summer (my Sprinter is put to bed for the winter) I'll post pictures.

Click to expand...

I believe the factory fuel line clamps are called CLIC, or CLIC-R clamps. I've read that MB does not approve any other clamp on their fuel lines, but the reasons seemed to do with operator error - clamp not tight enough to handle the pressure, clamp too tight, weaking the hose - rather than anything else.

Which RACOR filter housing and element are you considering?

-Jon

KL2BE said:

There are better hose clamps around; the kind where the grooves do not penetrate the band. Heavy-duty clamps are available at West Marine stores if you have one nearby.

Click to expand...

It never crossed my mind. I love that place. I have an excuse to go now.

Is the fuel in the center of the filter clean when you take the WIF sensor off the top? If so, you could just dump the fuel from the old filter to the new filter when swapping?

kkanuck said:

Is the fuel in the center of the filter clean when you take the WIF sensor off the top? If so, you could just dump the fuel from the old filter to the new filter when swapping?

Click to expand...

The fuel was clean. I was worried about including the gunky build up that was on the topside of the old filter into the new.

I do plan on cutting the old filter open to see how clean or dirty it is at 20k.