replacement of RV window opening arm

After 4 years of active use of my rig, I finally had to replace one of the operator arms to the side window, specifically, the front one on the sliding door (most heavily used). Of course, RT used windows on the 2008 RTA from a manufacturer no longer in business. My original dealer is now also out of business. My new replacement dealer showed minimal interest (parts guy wasn't interested in asking the sales guy to open up a 2012 model rig on the lot so that I could show him exactly which part to order).

As most of you know, the windows open by turning a knob that opens/closes 2 arms which are part strong stiff metal, joined with a double punch rivet about 2/3rds out to an extension made of a thin pliable metal that attaches to a cheap plastic roller that sits in a gutter that is on the window itself. Most of you probably have partially bent the outermost part of the arms by opening the window behind it's limits (who would know you were too far, until your were), only to find you were jammed open and then you forced it closed. We've all been there. If not you, then it was your loved one, your friend, your kid. Mine has been bent for a while, but still workable (yes, sometimes I had to work it closed from both inside and out, but it would close again), until finally the rolling wheel on the end broke, allowing it to come out of the window track (whatever it's called). When this happens, the loose arm will slap against the glass which is barely held shut by the remaining arm annoying the crud out of you constantly (like someone harping, "I told you so, I told you so").

So after much searching on the net, I found the part (screamingly ridiculous price, but only 1 source, so what are you to do). This IS the identical part. The product name is "Hehr Torque Operator - Medium".
https://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome_Product_Details.aspx?ProductID=6393&Return=71

The replacement took less time than this write-up. Remove the turning knob by taking out it's central screw. Remove the screen. Remove the two screws (don't lose them) to the arm from the "holder" (metal piece which is fixed in the base of the window frame), gently lift the old arm up in the middle and slip it over the holder, then slide the arms left or right out of the track. Reverse the process to insert the new one. DO NOT DO this with the arms sticking straight out. Do this with the arms nearly flat in position to mimic a nearly closed window. In your enthusiasm for having fixed this, don't break it the first time you try it. I nearly did. Opened it again just beyond that magical distance where it got stuck open again. DUH.
 
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Karsty

Niagara Falls, Ontario
I'm beginning to encounter this same problem now on my Winnebago ERA. This after only two years of use. I think they have used rivets in some case rather than screws for the screens but will have to take a closer look. It might involves a little extra patience and ingenuity if they have.

Thanks for the information though ... very helpful.
 

israndy

2007 LTV Serenity
I think those are the same jalousie windows that my LTV Serenity came with. I couldn't open or close the 4 year old windows when I got the RV, but a little dry lubricant and several months of time passing opening and closing the windows and they are good as new. Good to know I have a place to go if they do start to age.

-Randy
 

8string

Pacific NW Guy
Good call. I just ordered a spare as mine are bent and likely to die over the next year. Do we have any ex-mechanical engineers that can fashion a reasonable replacement that is sturdier? (is there such thing as an ex-ME?)
 
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LoopM

New member
I used a Dremel with a cutting attachment to get the rivets out fairly easily. Be careful with flying sparks and curtains.
 

mfmendez

New member
Glad to find this post....have 2014 Sprinter/RoadTrek and the window flew off on the freeway , after seeing this post...remembered that we did have a bent arm and trouble with the opening and closing of the window in the past. Now , it appears that I need both the window and the arm mechanism.
 

walkwithal

New member
After 4 years of active use of my rig, I finally had to replace one of the operator arms to the side window, specifically, the front one on the sliding door (most heavily used). Of course, RT used windows on the 2008 RTA from a manufacturer no longer in business. My original dealer is now also out of business. My new replacement dealer showed minimal interest (parts guy wasn't interested in asking the sales guy to open up a 2012 model rig on the lot so that I could show him exactly which part to order).

As most of you know, the windows open by turning a knob that opens/closes 2 arms which are part strong stiff metal, joined with a double punch rivet about 2/3rds out to an extension made of a thin pliable metal that attaches to a cheap plastic roller that sits in a gutter that is on the window itself. Most of you probably have partially bent the outermost part of the arms by opening the window behind it's limits (who would know you were too far, until your were), only to find you were jammed open and then you forced it closed. We've all been there. If not you, then it was your loved one, your friend, your kid. Mine has been bent for a while, but still workable (yes, sometimes I had to work it closed from both inside and out, but it would close again), until finally the rolling wheel on the end broke, allowing it to come out of the window track (whatever it's called). When this happens, the loose arm will slap against the glass which is barely held shut by the remaining arm annoying the crud out of you constantly (like someone harping, "I told you so, I told you so").

So after much searching on the net, I found the part (screamingly ridiculous price, but only 1 source, so what are you to do). This IS the identical part. The product name is "Hehr Torque Operator - Medium".
https://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome_Product_Details.aspx?ProductID=6393&Return=71

The replacement took less time than this write-up. Remove the turning knob by taking out it's central screw. Remove the screen. Remove the two screws (don't lose them) to the arm from the "holder" (metal piece which is fixed in the base of the window frame), gently lift the old arm up in the middle and slip it over the holder, then slide the arms left or right out of the track. Reverse the process to insert the new one. DO NOT DO this with the arms sticking straight out. Do this with the arms nearly flat in position to mimic a nearly closed window. In your enthusiasm for having fixed this, don't break it the first time you try it. I nearly did. Opened it again just beyond that magical distance where it got stuck open again. DUH.
I lubed my window torque openers repeatedly (2008 Sprinter - it's now 2021) when they started freezing up. But they finally gave in - four of the six broke their plastic bushings in three months. So I ordered 6 new torque openers. Yup - $31 each for a total of $209 (with shipping) to replace them all. Hopefully, I'll get them in time for an upcoming camping week in September. There must be another, cheaper way - because the only thing wrong with them is the plastic bushings. Unfortunately, they can't be replaced with a simple washer and a spacer because the bushing is cup-shaped to hold the rivet below the metal track on the window. DON'T LOSE THE SCREWS. They're almost impossible to find a replacement for.

Oh, yeah - I forgot to mention. The adhesive in the rubber gasket that holds the opening part of the window on the non-opening part disintegrates over time. Your very expensive glass at the bottom will then do a disappearing act costing you much heartache, time, and money to replace. Check them often. As soon as you see the gasket lifting off the window, remove the screen, remove the torque opener, and pull the entire flapping window off! Scrape all the adhesive off of the gasket and both windows. Clean the windows thoroughly, then liberally add GOO or GOOP (any kind - Plumbers, Car, Shoe, or plain GOOP - just make sure it will stick to rubber and glass) but ONLY to the two surfaces of the gasket that touch the windows. You get the GOOP at any home improvement store. There are other brands with numbers in their name, but they all work the same. Be careful when you put the gasket on the immobile window, then slip the opening section in and press HARD with your hands for about ten nimutes.

You MUST put pressure on the gasket until the GOOP is cured to make a good seal. I used 4" wide duct tape to hold the window in place. This doe NOT put pressure on the GOOP, so I also used a piece of plywood held against the window gasket and resting on the ground at about a 60- to 70-degree angle. Against that, I rested the handles of a hand truck with 5 concrete blocks on the pan to give it weight. Once the GOOP was cured, I removed the plywood and duct tape and cleaned the windows again. Scrape off the excess GOOP and you are ready to go camping again.

Hope this helps.
 
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Grouser

Live free,,, or die fighting for it,,,, no2 woke
Thanks for the link I'm going to be using it in the future I'm sure
 

Mein Sprinter

Known member
I have a similar problem with one of the windows but it's between the slide door. Difficult to access...do I need to remove the gigantic slide door in order to get to it.





cheers...
 

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