Air in fuel line driving me mad or is it?

[SprinterHelp]

Ok 2004 DuDge 2500 Sprinter
249k
Was running fine, the season changed in the last 2 weeks for the hotter and it began to stall intermittantly. Once every few days maybe, got hotter and it began to stall once a day. Checked fuel lines and found as it got hotter the lines went soft . I got new fuel filter Muhle?
Anyways still stalls, filed up the filter before reassembly, new O rings, new clamps.....
Stalls every 10 miles or so and after sitting for 20 minutes or so starts back up fine. Before it started after 10 minutes max when it was stalling less.
Replaced fuel line from filter to low pres pump entirely with rubber hose, this was to check the integrity of the section. So new clamps, re tightightened after several stops as hose became hotter.
Still stalling and will not start for 20 minutes at least, seems the hotter it gets the more it stalls.
One unsuccessful start I left the key on and the filter was making a noise like I was sucking on a straw on an empty milkshake glass.
SO I UNSCREWED the water valve completely on top and the filter was full of fuel.
I did top off whatever their was possible which was very very little.
I apparently did not retighten the water valve completely and the motor compartment was sprayed with fuel....
QUESTION is this not a vacuum suction ? should their not be any fuel pumping from the water relief valve....or is this the water relief valve on top in the center..correct me if I am wrong.
So I tightened it and it started and I made it a mile to my home and here I sit, two weeks of high gas mileage and now I cant get to the post office.......

When it stalls engine light comes on and throws (with OBD) a low fuel rail pressure. I have other codes, MAF, a couple bad glow plugs and some other probalbly very important codes.

It runs perfect when running and then it just shuts down at any time in any condition even parked.

IT seems like their is some sensor that gets hot and shuts it down and it will not start until it resets...(my wishfull thinking)

In the last re stats it would sputer and die, a few times eventually starting.

What is the deal, I never had a car that had so many mysterious problems that could not be diagnosed almost instantly.

My concern is if fuel system is vacuum why did the fuel shoot out when the water valve was opened......?????
Also it sounds like their is an electric pump running when I turn the key?????????
Anyways I am pretty good at trouble shooting but I am stumped....
HELP
Going for another mandatory stall, some htings ya gotta do.....
Be back in an hour.

[NelsonSprinter]

To my knowledge, a 2004 has a fuel pump in the tank pushing fuel to the filter, so that would not be a vacuum but a pressure in the filter.

A dirty or , loose or broken MAF sensor will cause stalling, high fuel comsuption etc. You can buy MAF sensor cleaner at a Auto parts store and clean the interior and just may fix your problem.

[Aqua Puttana]

Originally Posted by NelsonSprinter

To my knowledge, a 2004 has a fuel pump in the tank pushing fuel to the filter, so that would not be a vacuum but a pressure in the filter.

Yup. Unless his 2004 DuDge is an RV conversion it should have an OM647 diesel engine. It is not uncommon for the "2004" RV conversions to have the older style OM612 engine which does pull fuel from the tank.

Originally Posted by NelsonSprinter

A dirty or , loose or broken MAF sensor will cause stalling, high fuel comsuption etc. You can buy MAF sensor cleaner at a Auto parts store and clean the interior and just may fix your problem.

It could be so many things...

It's not uncommon for sensors get flakey in the upper or lower operating temperatures in the earlier stages of going out of range or before total failure.

At this point a Sprinter specific (friendly?) scan tool should be used to retrieve and record the DTC's. After recording the code history the DTC's should be erased. After that re-check for which codes return. The ECM may have some data to provide a direction for what to check next. A generic OBDII reader is probably not up to the task because it is limited as to what codes it will see. vic

[SprinterHelp]

Thank you for the input, went for another drive 20 miles 10 with a 2000 lb trailer. No stalls, started slow.. took 4 turnovers but it started.
So OK I HAVE A FUEL PUMP IN THE TANK.....OK so their is only a HP pump on front of the engine, makes sense since the output goes directly to the rail. OK.
Will order a MAF Sens, anyone buy any of the ones for 40 bucks? are they a temp fix or must I pay the 250 more or less for any sense?
Thanks again and I think the little knob on top of the fuel filter was also part to blame.

The temperature is cooler this evening and all problems seem to happen when its 90 or above.
I will follow up with the MAF repair and check back.
Obviously it was not the knob on top of the fuel filter.

[talkinghorse43]

Could be an injector is leaking-off too much. Search for type2teach's shade tree leak-off test to see if that's the problem.

[surlyoldbill]

Originally Posted by SprinterHelp

Thank you for the input, went for another drive 20 miles 10 with a 200 lb trailer. No stalls, started slow.. took 4 turnovers but it started.
So OK I HAVE A FUEL PUMP IN THE TANK.....OK so their is only a HP pump on front of the engine, makes sense since the output goes directly to the rail. OK.
Will order a MAF Sens, anyone buy any of the ones for 40 bucks? are they a temp fix or must I pay the 250 more or less for any sense?
Thanks again and I think the little knob on top of the fuel filter was also part to blame.

The temperature is cooler this evening and all problems seem to happen when its 90 or above.
I will follow up with the MAF repair and check back.
Obviously it was not the knob on top of the fuel filter.

I bought the cheapy Ebay one, and my exhaust smoked. Cleaned the OEM and put it back in, no more smoke. Get the $8 can of cleaner. Another source of bad behavior is the intake air temp sensor, $30 from Europarts etc.

[SprinterHelp]

Round and round we go where she stops nobody knows.

Out to the doc 40 miles away, first stop the auto part store for MAF cleaner.
Extracted MAF and cleaned.
Next checked air filter, so dirty air could not pass and it had folded in two to allow air to pass.
Reassembled, checked MAF connector and had some corrosion.
Traveled one mile and had hiccup, stopped dead at 10 miles.
No start, disconnected battery, disconnected MAF, reconnected bat, no start.
Pulled two relays under seat, cleaned with 220 sandpaper.
Engine restarted with engine light.
Going to check the next mentioned items in the advice provided above.
Thanks again for the input.
The search is on.

[SprinterHelp]

2004 2500 DUDge

Went through the injectors and all seem to be in tolerance (see pic), front injector is new, the rest are original at 249K.
I want to replace them but if not now at least new seals and retaining screws.
I have gone thru the air intake sensors, cleaned the MAF again, cleaned the air intake into the turbo.
One thing I did not mention is when the vehicle started stalling I just installed a new air charge hose going into the mixing chamber. I also at that time changed the air filter and discovered that some leaves and dirt ect had entered the system.

This all coincided with much hotter temperatures in the summer climate had set in.
I still have not cleaned the EGR as I am seeing pics of engines that ar enot exactly like mine.
I though the EGR was next to the air intake on top//right of the motor but it was a motor controlled thermostat.
Is the egr on the turbo side? So, I look up the egr in the 2005 manual and it appears different.
Some input please......

I spoke to someone who said the 2004's were famous for shutting down because of the oil pressure sensor. BUT he said the one on TOP of the motor...... I CANT FIND IT... ha ha

No mushrooms on my pizza and I feel like I am talking bottle rockets and not understanding rocket science.

So my real problem I need a real scanner to begin with and some access to parts/used to swap out to see what it is.

This is not an easy motor and I feel more people should be able to troubleshoot these things like any other motor.

I am in South Bend Indiana and if anyone in the geographic area has a sprinter specific scanner I will stall my way to your door.

I bought this thing and drove it about 800 miles with nary a stuter and then I sold my other van as I was ailing from a strained groin (you dont want that). SO I sold my gas guzzler and started switching new parts into the Newly Used Sprinter and the stall problem came on.

SO I am on the mend and need this unit up so I can get back to work and I am worried that I am Lost in THe Woods.
... in South BEnd

[NelsonSprinter]

I did buy the cheapie MAF sensor on ebay , with good results, your results may vary.
I don't like that air filter talk:
folded in 2 from complete clog,
leaves and dirt got past, this can kill an engine in no time
this engine has not been properly maintained with a clogged air filter, and may have a shortened life ahead
You may find leaves in the Intercooler, EGR and intake manifold ?

[scubanw3]

Make sure the ambient air pressure sensor on the air filter cover is properly connected. This is the smaller of the two connectors. The weather seal deforms and will not allow the electrical pins to make contact. It may look like it is properly connected and seated but may not be. Hope this helps.

Thank you, John
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