can I rent someone's injector extraction cam?

surlyoldbill

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
Went to replace my #1 injector this afternoon, and it's in there tight. I need to use the little injector cam that fits in place of the hold-down clamp.
Sprayed PB blaster and drove on the hiway for about 20 minutes, got to full temp. No luck.:idunno:

So, if someone can rent me their extractor, that would be great. PM for address and particulars.

-Bill
 
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220629

Well-known member
surlyoldbill said:
Went to replace my #1 injector this afternoon, and it's in there tight. I need to use the little injector cam that fits in place of the hold-down clamp.
Sprayed PB blaster and drove on the hiway for about 20 minutes, got to full temp. No luck.:idunno:

So, if someone can rent me their extractor, that would be great. PM for address and particulars.

-Bill
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Not that you asked...

There was a post awhile ago where the person said they had good success just leaving the injector holddown bolt loose and driving the van. Maybe leave everything snug to get the engine warmed up and then loosen the pawl bolt and drive some more? (Actually Doktor A mentioned one time that the fuel line keeps things basically in place even with a broken bolt.)

I'm convinced a hotter engine would have made my injector extractions less of an ordeal. Good luck. vic
 
B

Bob of QF

New member
Only 20 minuts of driving with PB is not really long enough to work with such tight clearances, IMO.

I've had to leave it working for as long as a week, before it finally penetrated all the way through. Every so often, I'd give it a fresh shot, but that was probabily wasted effort.

Try going a couple of days of normal driving, freshen up the PB every morning, and see if it won't loosen.

Vic's idea of leaving the bolt loose is an excellent addition.
 
surlyoldbill

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
Thanks for the tips. My #3 just pulled right out with no effort, so I assumed everything in life would be just as easy. I'll drive it around with the penetrating oil until this weekend and see what happens. And I'll search the forum for more tips!
I thought I read a post about how to make an extractor out of an old hold-down, I'll see if I can find it. I bought new bolt, hold-down and washers.
 
T

talkinghorse43

Well-known member
surlyoldbill said:
Went to replace my #1 injector this afternoon, and it's in there tight. I need to use the little injector cam that fits in place of the hold-down clamp.
Sprayed PB blaster and drove on the hiway for about 20 minutes, got to full temp. No luck.:idunno:

So, if someone can rent me their extractor, that would be great. PM for address and particulars.

-Bill
Click to expand...
Does #1 have the black death or just rust?
 
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surlyoldbill

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
talkinghorse43 said:
If you haven't looked at his experiences already, I'd stand on Aqua's shoulders here.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16068&highlight=injector
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Read through that last night.
I'll drive around the rest of this week while dosing with penetrating oil, and try the loose anchor bolt while running motor trick to loosen it if injector doesn't come out.

I recall seeing a lever device that takes the place of the hold-down, that lifts the injector when you tighten the bolt...? I can't find it now, I was wanting to take a look and see if I could fabricate one from an old hold-down.
 
mackconsult

mackconsult

New member
This is why I am proactive. Its not really a big deal to pull the injectors on this vehicle. If you do it once a year it becomes really easy & you become proficient at it.
 
T

talkinghorse43

Well-known member
surlyoldbill said:
I recall seeing a lever device that takes the place of the hold-down, that lifts the injector when you tighten the bolt...? I can't find it now, I was wanting to take a look and see if I could fabricate one from an old hold-down.
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I don't remember that, but anyway, I would be very reluctant to attempt anything like that given the problems reported here with the hold down threads in the head stripping requiring timesert or helicoil (helicoil not recommended by the good Doktor) repair. Also, some have reported hold down bolt failure leaving a difficult to remove stub in the head. I would go with the "conventional" tools for injector removal. Then, when replaced, add and maintain engine oil in the wells to make it easy the next time.
 
surlyoldbill

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
talkinghorse43 said:
I don't remember that, but anyway, I would be very reluctant to attempt anything like that given the problems reported here with the hold down threads in the head stripping requiring timesert or helicoil (helicoil not recommended by the good Doktor) repair. Also, some have reported hold down bolt failure leaving a difficult to remove stub in the head. I would go with the "conventional" tools for injector removal. Then, when replaced, add and maintain engine oil in the wells to make it easy the next time.
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Like other people, I'm wondering if I should remove and grease my "good" injectors, since I have 155k on 3 others, less than 50k on another. Or is that just an invitation to open a can of worms?
 
T

talkinghorse43

Well-known member
surlyoldbill said:
Like other people, I'm wondering if I should remove and grease my "good" injectors, since I have 155k on 3 others, less than 50k on another. Or is that just an invitation to open a can of worms?
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I only added (and am maintaining) a pool of engine oil to each of the wells. When the good Doktor changed #s 1&3 for me (began oiling @165k, changed @ 187k), they lifted out by hand w/o effort. For me, #4 is original (248k now), #5 was changed @ 30k, #2 was changed @ 99k.
 
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2

220629

Well-known member
talkinghorse43 said:
I only added (and am maintaining) a pool of engine oil to each of the wells. ...
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If this was Facebook I'd be a fan of oiling the injector wells. Wait a minute... if this was Facegook I wouldn't be typing anything.

As of now nobody has come up with a convincing argument against oiling the wells. The closest thing I think may be a concern is that the oil could POSSIBLY leak down into a cylinder if a vehicles sits without being started for a long time (years... decades?). Even that is a remote possibility.

The oil will definitely flow down into the cylinder cavity when the injector is removed. A blast of air into the cylinder before re-installing the injector will take care of that issue. It'll probably be messy, but any hydro lock should be avoided.

There's a slide hammer injector removal tool which may be effective after penetrating oil application and some soak time. vic
 
surlyoldbill

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
Aqua Puttana said:
If this was Facebook I'd be a fan of oiling the injector wells. Wait a minute... if this was Facegook I wouldn't be typing anything.

As of now nobody has come up with a convincing argument against oiling the wells. The closest thing I think may be a concern is that the oil could POSSIBLY leak down into a cylinder if a vehicles sits without being started for a long time (years... decades?). Even that is a remote possibility.

The oil will definitely flow down into the cylinder cavity when the injector is removed. A blast of air into the cylinder before re-installing the injector will take care of that issue. It'll probably be messy, but any hydro lock should be avoided.

There's a slide hammer injector removal tool which may be effective after penetrating oil application and some soak time. vic
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I have a slide hammer, but would need to cob together some way of gripping the injector. I'll start oiling the wells maybe every other oil change. Synthetic ok?
 
surlyoldbill

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
The PB Blaster for a few days and loosening the bolt didn't help much. I was able to twist the injector 1/16th turn by tapping on fuel line connection, but it didn't get easier or go farther after several 1/16th, back, repeats. Hoping that little turn allowed some of the blaster to start seeping further down. I haven't gone on any extended drives (more than 20 minutes) since I strted applying blaster.

Any other tips, or do I just rent the special slide hammer?
 
B

Bob of QF

New member
surlyoldbill said:
The PB Blaster for a few days and loosening the bolt didn't help much. I was able to twist the injector 1/16th turn by tapping on fuel line connection, but it didn't get easier or go farther after several 1/16th, back, repeats. Hoping that little turn allowed some of the blaster to start seeping further down. I haven't gone on any extended drives (more than 20 minutes) since I strted applying blaster.

Any other tips, or do I just rent the special slide hammer?
Click to expand...
I seem to recall reading in this forum on some thread or another, that one user had to work his injector out slowly-- a little turn, some blaster, a little back.

He wrote he had to work it back and forth for quite a while before the rotational resistance was low enough to remove the stubborn injector, and indicated patience was the key.

Sorry, I do not remember which thread that was on. But a search of "injectors" ought to turn it up.
 
surlyoldbill

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
If I could find a way of gripping the injector so I could twist it back and forth I would have it made. I need to return the old one as a core, so I don't want to mess it up much.
Luckily or unluckily it's #1. Easy access, but it's the one most people report having a problem with.
 
B

Bob of QF

New member
surlyoldbill said:
If I could find a way of gripping the injector so I could twist it back and forth I would have it made. I need to return the old one as a core, so I don't want to mess it up much.
Luckily or unluckily it's #1. Easy access, but it's the one most people report having a problem with.
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I wonder, being as it's the first one (closest) in line from the radiator, nearest to the water pump, if it's a heat thing?

Or is it because it gets splashed by weather? (being at the front/leading end of the engine)?

I've no idea, just wondering aloud here.

If PB Blaster doesn't do the trick? I've had a great deal of luck getting rust off metal using gun oil-- the kind that comes in a little squirt bottle. It seems that gun oil contains various solvents and a lot of anti-rust chemicals, more so than some lubricants. It's cheap, too-- I get it a Wally World in their outdoor section. It's good at penetrating too. At this point, you have little to lose here, right?
 
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