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#1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 76
Thanks: 18
Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts
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A long time dream was realized last fall when I purchased the a 2004 2500 140" High Roof Passenger Sprinter from fellow forum member djsincla (See pic). I recently began my conversion with Dodge de-badge and a Mercedes re-badge. Next, I installed seat swivels on both of the front seats. Currently, I am in the process of insulating the walls. There is a already a layer of Reflectix type materials fixed to the walls. Next, I will add a layer of Enguard insulation (Thanks Kat for all your research!) After the EnGuard, I will add another layer of Reflectix that will go against the inside panels and act as another insulating layer/vapor barrier. The rear seats are removed and I will be installing 3/4" high density rubber stall mats for mass loading, insulation, and sound deadening (Thank you Glasseye!) Next, I will be installing some cabinets that will form the base for bed decking. The attached pic is the general idea for the cabinet/bed support but my boxes will be made from wood.
Any advice on fastening in the cabinets from any of you fabrication experts would be greatly appreciated! More pics to follow.
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#2 |
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sprinter guru
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NorthWest
Posts: 178
Thanks: 31
Thanked 41 Times in 27 Posts
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"Any advice on fastening in the cabinets"...................rivnuts.
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2003 2500 144 low cargo (original owner) outfitted for work and play |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 133
Thanks: 49
Thanked 18 Times in 15 Posts
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Besides using adhesive caulk and screws when building and attaching your cabinets, please be aware beware of using most plywood that is put together with toxic outgassing adhesives [formaldehyde is the most common]. The only plywood I have used in my sprinter in some small areas has been years old so it is well seasoned, otherwise I have used solid wood lumber with screws and adhesive caulk and believe that in the interior confines of a van the outgassing should be a concern to everybody. There are a few makers of plywood that offer non formaldehyde products or as an alternative find some that is well seasoned and already outgassed. As one who tries to avoid toxics wherever I can I hope this can be helpful. Some people are more sensitive to things like this and for those it may make a difference. I prefer to try to minimize any exposure to poisons. There are enough of them in our world as it is, why bring them in to such a confined space as our vans. Best to all.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 169
Thanks: 57
Thanked 45 Times in 39 Posts
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Drew,
Do you have sources in OR for the Enguard insulation and the stall mats that you are planning to use? I've read both of those threads and was thinking of going the same route. I haven't gotten around to tracking that stuff down, but I imagine that unless you're getting it all online, I could probably use the same or related supplier here in Portland. Also, I saw your bench seats for sale... I know you probably want them gone sooner rather than later, but if they're still floating around in a few months I might be in touch about the narrow three seater (new tires and a few other odds and ends are taking higher priority in the budget at the moment). Thanks, Alex
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2002 Freightliner Sprinter SHC 140" WB |
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#5 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 76
Thanks: 18
Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts
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Quote:
I have not been able to source the Enguard locally. I have found the Enguard product online, but it is prohibitively expensive to ship. I did find some 3/4" stall mats locally at a place called High Desert Ranch and Home here in Bend. I have them cut and in place and they seem like they will work very well for both a thermal and sound barrier. Let me know about the seat when/if you are in the market. I am in Hood River on a regular basis and could bring it with me for easier pick up. Drew |
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#6 |
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Dave Orton
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Occidental, Ca.
Posts: 1,825
Thanks: 403
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[QUOTE=A.Hayes;169608]Drew,
Do you have sources in OR for the Enguard insulation and the stall mats that you are planning to use? I've read both of those threads and was thinking of going the same route. I haven't gotten around to tracking that stuff down, but I imagine that unless you're getting it all online, I could probably use the same or related supplier here in Portland. For rubber mats try Allied Products in Sherwood OR. 1-800-864-1272. I did not buy due to cost of shipping but they had what I was looking for.
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2008 NCV3 144" WB high roof DIY conversion |
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#7 |
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Gary
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Nevada City, CA
Posts: 133
Thanks: 95
Thanked 69 Times in 38 Posts
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After I learned about the stall mats from Glasseye, I called my local feed store and they had 1/2" and 3/4" in stock. I think they're common in feed stores. If my memory is correct the 1/2" I used were less than $40 each in 4'x6' size. 3 did my 06 140".
Gary |
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#8 |
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 76
Thanks: 18
Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts
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I bought the 3/4" and they were $42 a piece and I used 3 mats. I was able to cut them with a jig saw with a sharp blade without any problems.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to drew502 For This Useful Post: | hobieoutback (03-18-2012) |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 169
Thanks: 57
Thanked 45 Times in 39 Posts
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Gary, how well does the 1/2" stall mat work as a sound deadener? And did you also just pull the plywood floor and put it straight down? I'd like to stay as thin as possible, but if 3/4" would make a significant difference I'll go that route.
Drew, I'll keep my eye out in the Portland area for Enguard or similar polyester insulation. I'll also let you know about the bench seat, but like I said it would probably be a while... I have a friend's 3rd row (the wide one) on long term loan as the front row right now, but it's a pain to squeeze by to the back from the slider. But it's free and doing the trick for the moment. If I have a good couple of months work wise, a Hood River meet up could work well. Insulation wise, I had a bunch of 1" polystyrene foam board in the garage, so I doubled that up and did the long rear 'window' sections last weekend. I have a fair bit left, so I'm planning on reflectrix (or whatever that stuff is called) in the ceiling, and then 1" foam, but it would be nice to have something I can cram into all the voids in the lower side walls. I may cannibalize some old 4" foam sleeping pads for the hard to reach spots, coupled with the foam board if nothing better turns up.
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2002 Freightliner Sprinter SHC 140" WB |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 74
Thanks: 83
Thanked 60 Times in 29 Posts
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Here is a link to some EnGuard
http://www.dwellsmart.com/s.nl?sc=3&custcol104=4 The shipping makes the EnGuard Insulation very expensive. I bought one roll previously (should have bought 3 or 4) to use to stuff into the hard to get places and used most of it up on the two rear doors. If you have to stuff it a long way it packs pretty tight and does not go as far as you might think. Also you have to peel and shred a small quantity at a time from the batt to get it into the holes. The batt sepatates easily into thin layers which can be cut with heavy duty scissors. So, rather than paying for more shipping than polyester, then shredding and peeling, I think I may opt for the following choice this time. I have a local store I can use and the have a wholesale desk anyone buying full bolts of material can use for an additional 30% off. I think this might be easy to work with. I plan to cut the pieces just like I did the reflectix, and layer it in until I'm happy. While I am at the store I will try to find some plain polyester filling that may be cheaper, that can be used to increase the volume of air between layers ![]() Here is a link to Fabric Depot http://fabricdepot.com/index.php?pag...&pageid=160132 |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to david klair For This Useful Post: | A.Hayes (02-15-2012) |
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