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| T1N Talk General Discussions related to T1N Sprinters. |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Port Elizabeth, South Africa
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Had a look at the filter, no metal filings :)
HAving the oil checked is a good idea, maybe its getting contaminated with diesel from a faulty injector. Running 15W40 as per Daimler/Chrysler specification - TIA (this is africa ;)) - was about 100 deg F this weekend here, 38 deg C When I assembled the engine, the oil non return/pressure valve was very loose in the timing cover, so I am planning to replace it, as well as inspect the bearings. While I am at it, take the turbo to a reputible shop to have it checked. All of this will have to wait till Jan next year though, on my way to Mozambique for the holidays :) Last edited by wynanddb; 12-20-2011 at 03:14 PM. |
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#12 |
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Texas
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OK... its SA! Not different than Texas in the summer with over 100F on many days. Probably 125 just above the asphalt....
Hey... I don't know squat about these engines.... ![]() BUT! I'd check to see that you have completely filled the cooling system. Do these motors have an 'oil-water' inter-cooler for the engine's oil? If the inter-cooler has an air bubble trapped in it the oil temperature may not be regulated closely.... thus the loss of pressure due to higher than normal oil temperature when the engine goes back to idle. Yeah... I know.... probably not right.....
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2010 FourWinds Ventura (NCV3) Last edited by Old Crows; 12-20-2011 at 03:19 PM. |
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#13 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: near Pittsburgh, PA
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Quote:
What pressure do you see on startup? How hot is the engine running?
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'02 316 2500 SHC FTL 140 passenger, NAG1, 3.73 diff, 16" wheels, OM612 w/EGR (>275k mi.), '04 Golf PD-TDI (>110k mi.), both bought new Last edited by talkinghorse43; 12-21-2011 at 05:05 AM. |
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#14 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Port Elizabeth, South Africa
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Quote:
On startup the pressure starts at 0 and within 5 seconds is up to (1/2), the guage is not marked in psi, but marked in 5 segments. 5s after startup the pressure pegs right in the middle (1/2), stays the same for about 5 miles of driving, when coming to stops it goes down to (1/4). After 5 miles when I stop at home she goes doen to Zero, if I flick the accelerator she'll come back to about about 1/8, once cooled down a bit the oil pressure returns to normal. The heat gauge is marked in what I think is degrees C, and she runs between 90 and 100 degrees C thats 194 F to 212 F One thing that bugs me is that when I reasembled the engine, the oil non return/pressure valve situated in the timing cover was very loose (if you held the timing cover with this thing to the bottom it would fall out). As far as I understand this valve keeps oil in the oil filter when the engine is switched off. (picked that up from a Dr A post). So what is the chances that as the oil gets thinner its actually making its way past the sides of the valve returning oil to the crankase through the timing cover rather then pumping it up into the engine (or partially at least)? |
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#15 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: near Pittsburgh, PA
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Quote:
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...ght=das&page=8 Even though not knowing what the units are, those pressure values sound low. Mine when cold at anything off idle is pegged at the relief pressure of 85+ psig, and that's with a thinner oil (0w40) than you're running. That's running a little hotter than mine usually runs (180-200F), but then I rarely drive with the outside temp that high. I've never had my engine apart, but the valve you're describing could be OK if it's simply meant as a check valve to stop backflow. But, to be sure, I'd PM the good Doktor (abittenbinder).
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'02 316 2500 SHC FTL 140 passenger, NAG1, 3.73 diff, 16" wheels, OM612 w/EGR (>275k mi.), '04 Golf PD-TDI (>110k mi.), both bought new Last edited by talkinghorse43; 12-21-2011 at 03:01 PM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to talkinghorse43 For This Useful Post: | wynanddb (12-23-2011) |
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#16 |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Port Elizabeth, South Africa
Posts: 63
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Ah, got the location thanks, when I am back from leave I'll be hooking up a decent gauge there, permanently...
Send the good Doktor a PM :) If all else fails I'll replace that valve, as well as check the big-ends (although I doubt theyd be cooked after only 10 miles, unless they ran dry or the crank wasn't cut correctly) |
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#17 | |
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Doktor A
Join Date: Feb 2007
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Quote:
Doktor A |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to abittenbinder For This Useful Post: | wynanddb (12-23-2011) |
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#18 |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Port Elizabeth, South Africa
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Ok, Doctor A said that vavle would not influence the oil pressure, even if it was missing. So down to bearings, or maybe Turbo, or guage, I guess. Not ruling out the oil cooler just yet, but if it was faulty I would have expected some oil in the water...
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#19 |
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Poly - Thread Finder
Join Date: Apr 2008
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If you mean a leak in the oil cooler I would think that if that were leaking to the point of lowering oil pressure even in a 10 mile drive you would notice significant loss of oil level. FWIW. vic
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NAFTA 2004 OM647 140 2500 Std Roof >255,000 mi. Paint=Arctic Whitewash DAD "My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." is expressly implied. Keeping me on topic will be as successful as herding cats. Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus "There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR Some people have 10 years experience, others just 1 year 10 times. |
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#20 |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Port Elizabeth, South Africa
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I was more thinking in the line of oil cooler blockage
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| low oil pressure, om612, rebuilt |
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