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Old 06-27-2010, 05:16 PM   #1
luthpontoo
 
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Default brake lights

I have a 03 sprinter . My brake lights quit working . I replaced the bulbs and fuse what else could I be missing . HELP !
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Old 06-27-2010, 05:35 PM   #2
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Default Re: brake lights

Check the brake light switch at the top of the brake pedal.
There is a "rachet type" adjustment for the switch and it can get
out of adjustment fairly easily.
If I recall correctly, you slide the little rachet plunger out away from the switch
when the brakes are released, so it operates the switch as soon as you press
the pedal.
It only rachets one way, so check to see that when the brakes are released,
you have all the slack out of the rachet.
Here's a link that may help with this adjustment:
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6379
Hope this helps,
Roger

Last edited by sailquik; 06-27-2010 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 06-27-2010, 06:13 PM   #3
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Default Re: brake lights

Thanks sailquik I just tried messing with the switch some , still no lights it could be the switch is bad I have 330,000 miles on this van . would you know how this switch is removed it hard too see and figure out . I dont want to force it and break it .
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Old 06-27-2010, 07:35 PM   #4
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Default Re: brake lights

Hi luthpontoo,
Unfortunately, I became quite familiar with removing the brake switch when installing my trailer brake controller.
You have to push the switch back toward the firewall to disengage the lock tabs, then rotate the swtich about 30 deg. and it comes right out with
all the wiring attached.
I looked for a photo of the switch, but didn't find anything.
Wish my van was here so I could remove the switch and illustrate the way it locks into place.
Do you have a VOM meter?
Might be good to see if there's 12V at the switch.
If no voltage at the switch (cycle the pedal up and down a bit and hit all the wires) then your problem is probably not
the brake switch.
Also check the fuse panel for in/out voltage on the fuses.
Hope this helps,


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Originally Posted by luthpontoo View Post
Thanks sailquik I just tried messing with the switch some , still no lights it could be the switch is bad I have 330,000 miles on this van . would you know how this switch is removed it hard too see and figure out . I dont want to force it and break it .
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Old 06-27-2010, 07:48 PM   #5
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Default Re: brake lights

I found a photo of the switch:
Sprinter Brake Light Switch Mount Photo.jpg
As you can see you need to press the lock tab on top down andf toward the firewall, then turn the switch.
Getting it back in you have to push real hard to compress the plastic cone that's outside the center of the switch mount, then turn the switch until the lock tab on the top clicks back into place!
It's been a while, might have to turn it as much as 90 deg. You will know when the two locking dogs let go!
Hope this helps,
Roger


Quote:
Originally Posted by luthpontoo View Post
Thanks sailquik I just tried messing with the switch some , still no lights it could be the switch is bad I have 330,000 miles on this van . would you know how this switch is removed it hard too see and figure out . I dont want to force it and break it .

Last edited by sailquik; 06-28-2010 at 03:02 AM.
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Old 06-28-2010, 02:11 AM   #6
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Default Re: brake lights

Thank you very much for the help I will try this in the morning. Thanks again , Luther
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:11 PM   #7
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Default Re: brake lights

no intent to take over this post but has some good info on my issue. # 5 fuse keeps blowing and cant find the issue. been all over this forum and checked what I could like correct bulbs, short at the tail lights , all three.., inspected wire as best i can and will be in the shop monday for switch replacement. I do think this is a short as its touch and if the fuse burns. started the van and did not move while adding break several times all was fine. went to drive and went about a foot or so and on the third try the fuse went. shut down replaced fuse. started up put foot on break and blown fuse... at one point put a stick on the break and moved around all wires I could find for this system and the fuse did not blow. starting to wonder if this could be a abs controller issue or speed sensor???

any suggestions for this 03 2500 dodge???

Jeff
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:26 PM   #8
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Default Re: brake lights

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpoke5 View Post
...
any suggestions for this 03 2500 dodge???

Jeff
Maybe some info for ideas in this thread? Repairing a worn harness and wires seemed to cure their problem. Things that you related in your description may indicate some short that is affected by vehicle movement. vic

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...000#post111000
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:19 PM   #9
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Default Re: brake lights

Quote:
. started up put foot on break and blown fuse...
Sigh... intermittents are really frustrating to find (especially as you chew through blown fuses)
If (when?) i had this problem, i'd start by NOT replacing the fuse (for the nth time), and by unplugging the tail light unit.
That means you *only* have the wiring in the circuit.
Then i'd attach an ohmmeter to the "load" side of the fuse, with the other end connected to the car's metal.
Now have the assistant stomp on the brakes. Try it with engine running and engine stopped.
If you see the ohmmeter needle (numbers) change, you have a short circuit in the harness to the car's frame.
You could unplug the brake light switch and see if the short is between it and the rear of the car. (most likely)
If you don't see any meter reaction, go and test each taillight unit... *remove* the bulbs, and watch for continuity between the brake light pin and the ground pin. If there's no bulb, there should be no connectivity.
Since driving (or motor running) causes everything to vibrate/jiggle, a static ohmmeter test may not find the culprit.
The above tests (especially with an intermittent symptom) may not show anything, but they're better at locating the cause (cable? fuse block? tail lamp unit?) than guessing and blowing fuses.

Remember to NOT have the ohmmeter in-circuit on a POWERED circuit... it'll blow the meter. With power, you'd only use the voltmeter function.

good luck hunting
--dick
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:31 PM   #10
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Default Re: brake lights

A similar method I started using is to take a fairly heavy 12 volt lamp (maybe 21watt?) and attach it across the contacts of a blown fuse. Plug the attached lamp into the fuse position which has been blowing. The lamp will glow brightly with a dead short and less bright with the load of the system lamps on it. It's not entirely foolproof as too many lamps in the system can make it glow fairly brightly under normal conditions, but usually there is a discernable difference in brilliance.

It saves blowing a bunch of fuses during testing. It is also easy for someone to just watch while the stuff Dick suggests is tried. FWIW. vic

Quote:
Originally Posted by autostaretx View Post
Sigh... intermittents are really frustrating to find (especially as you chew through blown fuses)
If (when?) i had this problem, i'd start by NOT replacing the fuse (for the nth time), and by unplugging the tail light unit.
That means you *only* have the wiring in the circuit.
Then i'd attach an ohmmeter to the "load" side of the fuse, with the other end connected to the car's metal.
Now have the assistant stomp on the brakes. Try it with engine running and engine stopped.
If you see the ohmmeter needle (numbers) change, you have a short circuit in the harness to the car's frame.
You could unplug the brake light switch and see if the short is between it and the rear of the car. (most likely)
If you don't see any meter reaction, go and test each taillight unit... *remove* the bulbs, and watch for continuity between the brake light pin and the ground pin. If there's no bulb, there should be no connectivity.
Since driving (or motor running) causes everything to vibrate/jiggle, a static ohmmeter test may not find the culprit.
The above tests (especially with an intermittent symptom) may not show anything, but they're better at locating the cause (cable? fuse block? tail lamp unit?) than guessing and blowing fuses.

Remember to NOT have the ohmmeter in-circuit on a POWERED circuit... it'll blow the meter. With power, you'd only use the voltmeter function.

good luck hunting
--dick
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NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >275,000 mi.DAD Paint=Arctic Whitewash Brushtone Grey
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." is expressly implied.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
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Don't expect much from me. I've forgotten much of what I once knew.
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