Proposed fix for rusty fuel filler neck ?

fredbail

Member
Recently I was offered to have my tank filler neck replaced, along with the gas cap, with a new fuel filter. The tank would be removed and taken to someplace that cleans tanks out and cleaned. The fuel lines and the injectors would be cleaned. The reasoning is that rust has settled in my tank from the rusty fuel neck. The rust mixes with the fuel and is not adequately screened by the fuel filter, messing up the injectors, and maby (insert your own word here) the cylinder walls. This proposed work would be $1,200 ....Whatchuthinku? ,thanks PS. 2006...way rusty neck and cap
 

Altered Sprinter

Happy Little Vegemite
Recently I was offered to have my tank filler neck replaced, along with the gas cap, with a new fuel filter. The tank would be removed and taken to someplace that cleans tanks out and cleaned. The fuel lines and the injectors would be cleaned. The reasoning is that rust has settled in my tank from the rusty fuel neck. The rust mixes with the fuel and is not adequately screened by the fuel filter, messing up the injectors, and maby (insert your own word here) the cylinder walls. This proposed work would be $1,200 ....Whatchuthinku? ,thanks PS. 2006...way rusty neck and cap
Whatchuthinku?
Well as in proper Her Royal Majesty's English
fredbail I have news for you :professor:
Mercedes-Benz-Sprinter from the extensive listings of part numbers apart from to C clips between the Note:Plastic fuel tank to the rusty Neck Quote there are no metal fuel filler tubes
Behind the plastic fuel cap there are two of;and only two small sections of gold cadmium plated metal objects:Plated as a rust preventative of course.
IN the first and foremost line of reasoning to your whatdoyathinkum:... Rust is not present as such.
Fact your fuel and I hope it's ULSD summer grade therefore water in U.S fuels is present the rust is not rust but a rusticate ,thus is an algie bacterium that forms a fungus on the rear plated fuel cap and the metal plated locking mechanism the lockes your cap down [AIRTIGHT it's vacuum SEALED]THE AIR PRESSURE IS ATMOSPHERICALLY INERT.
"What to look for"
Open fuel door flap,remove fuel cap and look at the metal rear section behind the
plastic cap!If you can see water droplets then this is contaminated fuel from your supplier,or suppliers.
Over time the algie can attack this section and cause the rusticate to attack and form a rusticate fungus that eventually eats the metal out and real rust forms.

Basically the back metal section would fail and collapse,this has not happened to you unless your living in the Artic region of minus 30fC permanently.
I'm as usual prepared to back this up with H/D photographic evidence
The cap can not rust if an additive is used And I can prove it:professor:
The long term preventative solution is to add to your fuel a Non alcohol based upper cylinder lubricant with anti-gel properties such as Red-line 85plus with winterized anti gel agents.
Red-line is guaranteed to work as I have used it full time since January 2005
There is no rust in the tank, fuel lines, or even a hint of injector damage or leakage anywhere.
If Alcohol based additives are used{Be Warned} this will eat out and damage any copper component in your fuel lines to the injectors O rings.
I would strongly advise you to lift the engine cover and look for Black death before you even think of wasting $1200 dollars of your very hard earned money
Or go to a authorized Mercedes Out let for a proper diagnostic report.
What sediment that is collected at the bottom of your tank; if present may go to both Oil and fuel filters they will capture any large contaminates.
US Winter based fuels are your enemy not your friend Use an additive.
RICHARD
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
How many miles do you have on your 2006?

I think my understanding about the fuel system is less complete than I'd suspected.

This is what I know:

The factory filter is rated at 5 microns. That's too fine a mesh for human red blood cells - at 7 to 9 microns - to pass. That's gotta be a really fine grit of abbrasive - so to speak - passing through your high pressure pump.

What doesn't make sense to me:

I know that the filter's not 100% efficient, but wouldn't it get clogged with visible rust first?

I thought a clogged fuel filter pretty much starved the engine.

Does the filter have a "bypass" for when the media's clogged; the engine is getting "unfiltered" fuel?

Where did I lose the plot?

-Jon
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
"What to look for"
Open fuel door flap,remove fuel cap and look at the metal rear section behind the
plastic cap!If you can see water droplets then this is contaminated fuel from your supplier,or suppliers.
Over time the algie can attack this section and cause the rusticate to attack and form a rusticate fungus that eventually eats the metal out and real rust forms.
I found rust on the underside of my cap too, but it was surface rust as described above and had not eaten into the base metal or coating. A quick rub with Redline Diesel Fuel Catalyst (the little leftover in the bottle after dumping it in the tank before refueling with diesel) cleaned up most of the build up and has stayed clean since.

I didn't think the filler neck was metal, at least the one in my '06 isn't (ok maybe just the top, but still). But in any case, I have this nice bridge that I can sell you for $800...

bridge.jpg

:smilewink:
 

maxextz

Rollin Rollin Rollin.....
ive found the only solution to this problem is to become richard:rolleyes:.
did you see his sprinter:crazy:and his fuel cap:wtf: am i jealous?........feck i am.:bash:

max........:smirk:
 

GEARS

2005 140WB standard roof
When I bought my 2005 Sprinter, the fuel cap tabs were rusted off and the filler neck looked worn out.

I replaced them myself with about $80 worth of dealership parts in about an hour but wish that I knew the oil fill cap was the same size because it's a whole lot cheaper than a gas cap!

You don't have to drop the tank to replace the filler neck because it's high on the side of the tank, just make sure the fuel light is on and it's a piece of cake! You don't even spill a drop of fuel either. :cheers:
 

220629

Well-known member
....
Are mineral spirits a form of alcohol?

-Jon
Jon,
No.

I looked it up for verification.

Mineral Spirits

Mineral spirits is the name for what is a "light hydrocarbon" or "blended petroleum hydrocarbon solvent" used for degreasing and cleaning, as well as for thinning any oil-based paint or varnish.

Mineral spirits contain Stoddard Solvent*, hydrodesulfurized naptha, nonanes, n-propylbenzene, trimethylbenzenes, ethylmethylbenzenes, alkanes, isoparaffins and cycloalkanes, all of which come from the refining of petroleum.
*Stoddard solvent is a petroleum mixture that is also known as dry cleaning safety solvent, petroleum solvent and varnoline. The main trade name is Varsol.

Mineral spirits are flammable and toxic.

Link is here:
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/315.cfm

AP/vic
 

Altered Sprinter

Happy Little Vegemite
Jon,
No.

I looked it up for verification.

Mineral Spirits

Mineral spirits is the name for what is a "light hydrocarbon" or "blended petroleum hydrocarbon solvent" used for degreasing and cleaning, as well as for thinning any oil-based paint or varnish.

Mineral spirits contain Stoddard Solvent*, hydrodesulfurized naptha, nonanes, n-propylbenzene, trimethylbenzenes, ethylmethylbenzenes, alkanes, isoparaffins and cycloalkanes, all of which come from the refining of petroleum.
*Stoddard solvent is a petroleum mixture that is also known as dry cleaning safety solvent, petroleum solvent and varnoline. The main trade name is Varsol.

Mineral spirits are flammable and toxic.

Link is here:
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/315.cfm

AP/vic
What the U.S MSDS does not show is the full chemical specifcations Registered to Mobil Exxon Solvo 100/150 yes it's the dregs of waste products from refinery process Paint stripper gun cleaner a THINNER the higher the consentrate the quicker it strips contaminates.
The down side is it has no real lubricity to lubricate or protect vital parts as redline certinally does as this product is a gentle product the will dissolve all contaminates and lubricate at the same time thus presevering the engines vital parts.as to a TRUE ASTM Fame standard
Most of the U.S additives use modified alcohol-type, highly reactive based products! But change the chemical compounds to somewhat get around regulations some actually increase the NOx and thus defeat any real purpose meaning of an additive for our sprinters.There is a difference between petroleum based so called mineral spirits and natural Mineral based 100% pure gum[NATURALLY LUBRICATING] based spirits.\
Richard
 

220629

Well-known member
...

Most of the U.S additives use modified alcohol-type, highly reactive based products! But change the chemical compounds to somewhat get around regulations some actually increase the NOx and thus defeat any real purpose meaning of an additive for our sprinters.There is a difference between petroleum based so called mineral spirits and natural Mineral based 100% pure gum[NATURALLY LUBRICATING] based spirits.\
Richard
Jon,
The mineral spirits we used in the motor rewind shop didn't contain alcohol. I try my best.:thinking: Sorry if I added confusion. AP/vic
 

fredbail

Member
Whatchuthinku?
Well as in proper Her Royal Majesty's English
fredbail I have news for you :professor:
Mercedes-Benz-Sprinter from the extensive listings of part numbers apart from to C clips between the Note:Plastic fuel tank to the rusty Neck Quote there are no metal fuel filler tubes
Behind the plastic fuel cap there are two of;and only two small sections of gold cadmium plated metal objects:Plated as a rust preventative of course.
IN the first and foremost line of reasoning to your whatdoyathinkum:... Rust is not present as such.
Fact your fuel and I hope it's ULSD summer grade therefore water in U.S fuels is present the rust is not rust but a rusticate ,thus is an algie bacterium that forms a fungus on the rear plated fuel cap and the metal plated locking mechanism the lockes your cap down [AIRTIGHT it's vacuum SEALED]THE AIR PRESSURE IS ATMOSPHERICALLY INERT.
"What to look for"
Open fuel door flap,remove fuel cap and look at the metal rear section behind the
plastic cap!If you can see water droplets then this is contaminated fuel from your supplier,or suppliers.
Over time the algie can attack this section and cause the rusticate to attack and form a rusticate fungus that eventually eats the metal out and real rust forms.

Basically the back metal section would fail and collapse,this has not happened to you unless your living in the Artic region of minus 30fC permanently.
I'm as usual prepared to back this up with H/D photographic evidence
The cap can not rust if an additive is used And I can prove it:professor:
The long term preventative solution is to add to your fuel a Non alcohol based upper cylinder lubricant with anti-gel properties such as Red-line 85plus with winterized anti gel agents.
Red-line is guaranteed to work as I have used it full time since January 2005
There is no rust in the tank, fuel lines, or even a hint of injector damage or leakage anywhere.
If Alcohol based additives are used{Be Warned} this will eat out and damage any copper component in your fuel lines to the injectors O rings.
I would strongly advise you to lift the engine cover and look for Black death before you even think of wasting $1200 dollars of your very hard earned money
Or go to a authorized Mercedes Out let for a proper diagnostic report.
What sediment that is collected at the bottom of your tank; if present may go to both Oil and fuel filters they will capture any large contaminates.
US Winter based fuels are your enemy not your friend Use an additive.
RICHARD

Well, if you prefer, I will employ a proponderous plethera of verbose nomenclatures to propound allegorious agglomeratives in verbose pomposities which would impune those disengenuous santimonious scallywags who orchestrateed this larcinous ostentation. Otherwise, looks like I was about to get snookered,... and thanks to you, and the others who responded, I have a more clear picture of my situation. I will look for the additives. Now that I think of it, the van did set a while....both on the used car lot, and at my place as I fitted it,and everybody knows how humid the east coast can get(USA). Did I mention I put over 18 sheets of plywood in it to do the walls, ceiling, bulk head, and cabinets? Once again, thanks to all.
 

Altered Sprinter

Happy Little Vegemite
Well, if you prefer, I will employ a proponderous plethera of verbose nomenclatures to propound allegorious agglomeratives in verbose pomposities which would impune those disengenuous santimonious scallywags who orchestrateed this larcinous ostentation. Otherwise, looks like I was about to get snookered,... and thanks to you, and the others who responded, I have a more clear picture of my situation. I will look for the additives. Now that I think of it, the van did set a while....both on the used car lot, and at my place as I fitted it,and everybody knows how humid the east coast can get(USA). Did I mention I put over 18 sheets of plywood in it to do the walls, ceiling, bulk head, and cabinets? Once again, thanks to all.
In part your answer is verified somewhat on this link
Richard
SI00.40-Z-0001A e.pdf
 

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