Soundproofing the T1N drum

geoffs

geoffs

2003 T1N 316CDI LWB
The top surface of the factory fitted floor in the rear of the van is looking a little frayed so I'm going to replace it with some rubber/vinyl material.
As the floor will need to come out for pending body repairs, I'm going to remove it myself, lots of useful hints and tips already found here for that.
While the floor is up, it makes sense to fit a sound deadening layer.
I would love to put down some l-track but the budget doesn't stretch that far, perhaps a couple more tie down points will do

So I'm looking for recommendations on sound deadening material and floor covering - not carpet.
Only those materials available locally (Oz) please.
 
Altered Sprinter

Altered Sprinter

Happy Little Vegemite
The OEM Masonite type floor can be restored and cleaned up, so put the base back, to allow for matting from purple-pig out Moonah way to lay on top. so simple .
As for a rubber composite depends on your bank book.
As for the base re-druming it's not coming through the floor, but a rubberized sound deadener can be applied to the cargo vans floors liter should fix that.
I have other similar tar based products but it takes days to dry in this weather we are having of late.
kh_rustdead.jpg​
Richard
 
geoffs

geoffs

2003 T1N 316CDI LWB
I didn't have a close look at the flooring material, it seems like ply, that's covered with a ribbed, rubber matting. It's the matting that has taken the damage.
Went out to start drilling rivets but found out I'll also have to remove the cargo barrier . Not a big job but one for tomorrow ...
 
Altered Sprinter

Altered Sprinter

Happy Little Vegemite
geoffs said:
I didn't have a close look at the flooring material, it seems like ply, that's covered with a ribbed, rubber matting. It's the matting that has taken the damage.
Went out to start drilling rivets but found out I'll also have to remove the cargo barrier . Not a big job but one for tomorrow ...
Click to expand...
The floor has to come up to get at that possible damaged section of the floor where you took a hit.
Then Quote and note leave it until the repairs are done as this will be a very messy job, once that panel is removed, so any thing you do beforehand will simply get damaged or look very dirty when your hand is handed back. I have the equipment to spray it on, and it may be worth considering the inner rear lower panels being sprayed out with stone guard.
PDF: http://solutions.3m.com.au/3MConten...assetId=1273666845769&blobAttribute=ImageFile
 
owner

owner

Oz '03 316CDI LWB ex-Ambo Patient Transport
I did this on mine. The floor in the LWB is in 2 parts, the transverse join is just behind the trailing edge of the sliding door. You will see a row of rivets on each side of the join. There is a 1 inch lip where the rear part fits over the front IIRC.

I put down some very heavy rubber 2 inch wide tape type stuff I got from a local surplus place. It looked quite expensive 3M "Bump-on" its called. They were basically giving it away.

The trouble is there are all the ribs in the floor. A spray on type stuff might be better. I just stuck the tape down between the ribs. There should also already be a thin layer of matting type stuff under the ply as well, I kept that layer too.

I needed to lift the floor to weld all the holes from the ambo fitout, otherwise I probably wouldn't have bothered.

I'm plannig to put down some of those very heavy rubber backed 1m2 heavy duty carpet tiles from bunnings when the fitiout is nearing completion.
 
416cdi

416cdi

04 LWB 416cdi T1N OM612 rust-bucket
The factory fitted plywood floor is so noisy in the back of the van when its empty so i fixed it myself.
I installed a rubber/foam composite acoustic insulation under the plywood floor fastened it to the van floor with nuts and bolts and washers (with loc tite) then installed another layer of acoustic underlay with a heavy duty commercial carpet on top.
End result is alot less road noise but still need to do something with the walls and roof.
 
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Altered Sprinter

Altered Sprinter

Happy Little Vegemite
The perfect underlay on the overlay composite floor is from the floting floor sytems. carpet on top then acts as the secondary sound barrier . Half the base is gone.
Sides are expensive, but it works suresheild thermal acoustic barriers there are two types.
Archives on the Oz side use the blue search bar.
Richard
 
surlyoldbill

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
Super Cheap, Super Easy...

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...3&productId=100028603&N=10000003+90157+500200

I had some of this left over, and put two strips inside my sliding door and the differences is INCREDIBLE. I didn't even get crazy with it and cover all available outer metal, just two 1x3' strips in the middle of the door.
I'm going to get another roll and use it under the windows, perhaps see if I can fit it under the front mat over the wheels and interior engine wall. If things go well, I may just remove the headliners and put it all over the roof, too.
 
N

nathanhdunn

2017 319 v6 ex-ambo
I was looking for cheap, and bought 2 rolls of carpet underlay. You'll need to finish it with something on top, because the underlay tears easily, but it is cheap :) They have pick up in st peters in sydney east, and st marys in sydney west.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Yellow-Foam-Carpet-Underlay-14x1-8M-per-roll-Thickness-10mm-/200749741639

I stuck it to the roof, as I'm concerned about thermal insulation in the hot sun. Even with only in the last 2 panels at the rear of my lwb, the difference in sound was was amazing! The contact glue fell off that evening, so I need more hands and perhaps a roller to stick it up, but can't wait till I've done the whole roof.

Owner, Mine is full of bolt holes from a rear bench seat and the seatbelts. nrma/RTA say it wasn't legal so I've ripped it out. I'm planning on spraying each hole with a little killrust paint, then expanda foam gap filler from bunnings. Nobody will notice after I put the lino down (Did I mention I was going cheap? :-p )
 
geoffs

geoffs

2003 T1N 316CDI LWB
As the floor is still out on mine (I'm slack), now is the perfect time to put some extra underlay down.
It's a matter of what I can afford and find locally.
 
416cdi

416cdi

04 LWB 416cdi T1N OM612 rust-bucket
nathanhdunn said:
I was looking for cheap, and bought 2 rolls of carpet underlay. You'll need to finish it with something on top, because the underlay tears easily, but it is cheap :) They have pick up in st peters in sydney east, and st marys in sydney west.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Yellow-Foam-Carpet-Underlay-14x1-8M-per-roll-Thickness-10mm-/200749741639

I stuck it to the roof, as I'm concerned about thermal insulation in the hot sun. Even with only in the last 2 panels at the rear of my lwb, the difference in sound was was amazing! The contact glue fell off that evening, so I need more hands and perhaps a roller to stick it up, but can't wait till I've done the whole roof.

As you mentioned you are doing this on the cheap, theres not much I can say, but generally if you want to insulate thermally you need a product with aluminum foil as one or more of the layers.
As for adhesive, you must check the manufacturers allowable temperature range. Contact adhesive is not designed to be stable and withstand the hot temperature that your van roof will be subjected to.
Click to expand...
 
N

nathanhdunn

2017 319 v6 ex-ambo
>As you mentioned you are doing this on the cheap, theres not much I can say, but generally if >you want to insulate thermally you need a product with aluminum foil as one or more of the >layers.
>As for adhesive, you must check the manufacturers allowable temperature range. Contact >adhesive is not designed to be stable and withstand the hot temperature that your van roof will >be subjected to.

I know aluminum foil would be better for radiant heat, but it'll be pressed up against something, so contact transmission will be more of a problem. The plastic layer will serve as a vapor barrier so the foam doesn't get damp.

However, after a few different experiments with contact glues, I'm up the creek without a paddle. I can't get this stuff to stay on the ceiling more than a few hours, if the glue holds, the foam dosn't... I'm seriously thinking I have to get some thin ply and screw everything up to the "joists".
 
owner

owner

Oz '03 316CDI LWB ex-Ambo Patient Transport
nathanhdunn said:
I'm seriously thinking I have to get some thin ply and screw everything up to the "joists".
Click to expand...
Pretty soon you'll be doing a full fitout lol.

Mine came with a full headlining originally, but it got attacked badly by the ambo turkeys. It also has some sort of grey foam stuff about an inch thick glued on all the sprinter steel panels, roof, sides and doors. Its quite lightweight stuff so isn't really doing much sound wise, but heat insulation seems good.

I'm probably going to go down the plywood route for the back half of my van ceiling. There are something like 6 headliner panels, and each one costs $1200 from MB. Only my front panel and one of the centre ones survived relatively unscathed, the rest have been written off by said ambo fitout turkeys and are unusable. At least the front crew area of my van will have a proper MB headlining. I have a toilet cubicle starting at the rear edge of the sliders, which blocks off 3/4 of the rear of the van, that cuts down a fair bit of noise with a small curtain across the remaining 1/4. I'm planning to properly sound deaden and insulate the front area, when I can work out how to do it cheap. The van is too damn big to do the whole thing properly for sound.

For the holes in your floor, you can just cut small pieces of metal and bog them over the holes. Or you can use that fancy bog with the metal strands in it - but that costs extra.
 
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