bikerjoe
New member
Ahh! That is Murphy's Law of Inanimate Reproduction!yea great idea...............ever found a bolt when the job is finished
"If you take something apart and reassemble it enough times, eventually you will have two of them!"
Ahh! That is Murphy's Law of Inanimate Reproduction!yea great idea...............ever found a bolt when the job is finished
The factory fastener is not a thread 'cutting' bolt but rather a thread forming bolt used in soft alloy castings.My bolt did not appear to be a self cutting bolt (I ran it thru an 8mm 1.25 threaded nut to make sure of its size, and it was was round, not triangular in any way), which is why I pre- threaded the water pump.
Thanks,Remove the core support front bracket entirely. Once you have it turned upside down, you can remove the cable easily and set the entire assembly to the side. This goes for the turbo heat shield as well. Only three mounting hardware. One bolt and two nuts.
Remove both headlights, this enables much more room to get at hoses and such. I simply unscrew them and let them hang over the side.
Remove the front bumper. This is much easier than you think. Remove the front bumper license plate bracket and the two push pins at the corners. The bumper will pull out. It is only a plastic fasad to look like a bumper. Caution, there is a Air temp sensor located behind the plate. Again, two plate bolts, and two plastic push pins. set the bumper to the side.
Now here is the best part. remove the lower radiator hose and the smaller hose that goes to the pipe coming off the water pump.
From down below, there are two transmission cooler lines. You need a 19mm and 17mm.
with these four points removed, up front, completely remove the cooling fan. Take it aside.
The two nuts the bottom top mounts at the radiator and the electrical connection. Remove both top radiator hoses, and be sure the system completely rocks back and forth.
At this point, you will be able to lift the entire assembly up over the frame section and open the radiator like a door to the left. I would support it some how, but some people will not.
You then have complete frontal access to the fan and front of engine. Now we put them on a rack, so I bring them up to standing height, but I have done them in the steam cleaning rack on the floor, a little harder, but still not that bad.
Have fun, enjoy! Richard
Yeah, it is not that bad. I take an entire shift to do the job, but that is because I work for a fleet. Reliability is everything in my line of work, so everyhting gets replaced while I am in there.They leak frequently is my opinion. I drive 2 2005's and both leaked less than 100k miles. My personal van had 71k on it. The dealer said it was under the 100k warranty so I paid a deductible of $100. I couldn't buy the pump that cheap. The other was just a hair over 100k miles and the Sheriff's Office (my employer) was charged $575. total job.
My personal van took the technician 3 hrs. to do the replacement. I waited in the customer lounge for it.
I noticed what could be cavitation damage (looked like some small grains had been picked out of the metal of the timing cover) the last time I changed the water pump on mine. It was on the suction side of the pump in a passage in the timing cover that seemed to be flowing from the vicinity of the oil cooler. The suction passage from the radiator looked new. Can't say the damage was severe, but it was concentrated on the corners of the casting in the damaged passage. I can say that the quality of the coolant I used (don't know about the OEM fill, that was a bluish green) has always been on spec G05 at the 50/50 concentration. But, I have never had it analyzed for nitrite content. Is there a vendor you can recommend for nitrite testing?Oh, one more thing. I am aware that the Sprinters will have a major cavatation issue if the coolant is not proper. It should be long life (some sort of a pink, orange, purple, etc color--Not green) and the levels should test out to a freeze protection of atleast -37degrees f, and nitrite ppm of around 1200.
Fogging and antifreeze smell are signs of a leaking interior heating system . not an outside pump. The hose to the heater condensor/rad fins or heat exchanger may be leaking inside.I'm wondering if I should replace my water pump?
When I turn on my auxillary heater/espar, and select the heat pump button (9 oclock on switch that also has the A/C button), I can smell antifreeze/coolant and then the window fogs up with a film of antifreeze.
No pictures, but I gave this description about 2/3 way down in the first post....
Does anyone have any pics related to removing the fan from the water pump? ...
Someone once offered tools for sale here to remove the fan. Search here using the tool in the blue bar above.Today I began what will be a pretty big project - installing a new water pump, EGR, O2 sensor, idler and tensioner - and also having the turbo rebuilt on my '04 2500.
Some great info here! I already have the radiator loose, and have removed the turbo to drop it off at the rebuilder tomorrow.
Does anyone have any pics related to removing the fan from the water pump? I've removed them from my NCV3s before (I don't miss those pieces of junk) but the T1N appears to be a totally different setup.