Storage cabinets/options under chassis?

sprinterpirate

not an electrician.
Hi folks,

As my plans to modify my van to hold all my gear develop, I'm thinking more and more about making some custom cabinets underneath the sprinter. Not that there is too much room to spare, but there are some things that seem like they would lend themselves to this use:
  • My toolbox is pretty heavy, and it seems like if I mounted tools outside they would be accessible where I use them, and mounting them underneath would lower my CG *just a bit*.
  • It would be nice to store propane bottles underneath and outside of the passenger/living space. (obviously this sort of cabinet would have to be strong to make it invulnerable to getting busted open!)
  • A chord for shore power, emergency supplies, etc.
  • The removable awning I'm planning to make for the van
  • Spare fuel and water cans

Unfortunately I'm away on work or I would be underneath my van right now to identify spaces that would be usable for this purpose...

What have others on this list done to maximize space underneath? Pictures would be especially nice.

Thanks! :popcorn:

P.S: I did a few google searches on this site but didn't find anything--perhaps I was using the wrong key words. Nevertheless, I'm guessing this topic has been discussed many times before. If so, I apologize for rehashing the topic. Links to other threads will be interesting too!
 
Last edited:

sprinterpirate

not an electrician.
One more question: Does anyone have a schematic or drawing of the underside of T1N 140" vans? I have a schematic that shows the dimensions of all four sides and from above, but I can't even find a photo from underneath. Would be very grateful if someone happens to have something like this.
 

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
I have been struggling with this same question for a new Transit for the last two months. Finally have a solution that will work. Not drawn yet but think it will work. Want it for exactly the same reasons you state. I will have more storage inside if I move the leveling blocks, tie down straps, propane bottles, shore electrical cord, lantern etc. to storage under van.

My rube goldberg solution will be a rectangular 80/20 platform supported by two 3/16" cables at the front and one 12 volt electric winch cable at the rear. Platform will support two drawers with open tops. A cover will be permanently bolted to van bottom at the top. Platform will be lowered by unreeling the winch to drop the platform down low enough to be able to pull out the drawers. Unreel the winch and the platform will sag down toward the ground to access the drawers. Wind in the winch and platform will move up into the space between the frame rail and outer body. Still need to figure out how to provide supports when platform is in the up position. Would have about 8" x 11" x 60" of storage.
 

sprinterpirate

not an electrician.
I made a tray for under the spare tire on my NCV3 where I store my BBQ. [/url]
Thanks hein! I must say, your 2010 3500 build thread is incredible, I honestly just spent the last two hours (re)reading through many pages of it. And then you showed up on this thread like a celebrity, I'm blushing! :bow:

Seriously, impeccable attention to detail. I can only hope to replicate some of your results. That reminds me: I'm pretty sure I saw you installed an Espar and some electric radiant floor heater strips as well... If I'm right about that, I'm curious how well that radiant heat is working...

The roof is a lot easier,no?
Well, I do plan on putting some solar panels up there eventually. But I already feel like the high top is dangerously high--sometimes on dirt roads I'm struggling to avoid trees. Plus I want to keep my CG low.

My rube goldberg solution will be a rectangular 80/20 platform supported by two 3/16" cables at the front and one 12 volt electric winch cable at the rear. Platform will support two drawers with open tops. A cover will be permanently bolted to van bottom at the top. Platform will be lowered by unreeling the winch to drop the platform down low enough to be able to pull out the drawers. Unreel the winch and the platform will sag down toward the ground to access the drawers. Wind in the winch and platform will move up into the space between the frame rail and outer body. Still need to figure out how to provide supports when platform is in the up position. Would have about 8" x 11" x 60" of storage.
Yeah Dave! Something like that!

A number of years ago I came across this antique desk spent at least half an hour playing with the mechanism of the swing-out typewriter shelf it had. You opened the door, and the heavy typewriter swung down, out, and up--cantilevered out from the front left side of the desk. Wish I could find a photo. I know there must be some product like this for undercarriage cabinets!

EDIT: it was kind of like this:





Perhaps this kind of mechanism could be used to go the other way, i.e: in front of the desk = tucked up under the van, and inside the desk = pulled down to access gear...
 
Last edited:

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
Like I said, not drawn yet. Space available is along the driver's side between the wheels and between the "frame" rail and outside sheet metal. End of 3/16" cable would bolt to channel floor stiffener at the front, go down at an angle and feed through the outside 80/20 center hole, make a "U" turn and go back though the 80/20 center hole on the inside 80/20 and back up to the floor stiffener channel. In back the 12 volt winch would attached to the center of the 80/20 rectangular platform. 3 point attachment. 12 volt winch would mount to the front of the rear leaf spring mount. Think of a clothes line. Let out the cable and the platform would drop down toward ground. Rectangular 80/20 platform would have end plates front and back about 3" tall. Center of platform would also have a 3" tall piece of sheet metal. Two drawers would sit on the platform with handles on the bottom at the back of the drawer. Let cables down so top of drawers clear van side. Reach under drawer to pull handle toward outside to get access to top of drawer.

A drawing would make the explanation much easier.

I am in SF regularly street camping for the night if you have any interest in seeing my Sprinter conversion for ideas.
 
Last edited:

sprinterpirate

not an electrician.
Like I said, not drawn yet. A drawing would make the explanation much easier.

I am in SF regularly street camping for the night if you have any interest in seeing my Sprinter conversion for ideas.
Yes, I'm sure there are some nuances I'm not seeing without a drawing, though I have the general idea--and it sounds good!

As for checking out your build, I most certainly would love that. I have really appreciated your Orton DIY posts--very generous of you to offer. Would be happy to bring along a sixpack to ease the pain of the incessant questions you would get from me! :cheers:

Alas, I'm currently out for work in Abilene, TX, but I will be home one of these days. Will definitely PM you at that point.
 

hein

Van Guru
Thanks hein! I must say, your 2010 3500 build thread is incredible, I honestly just spent the last two hours (re)reading through many pages of it. And then you showed up on this thread like a celebrity, I'm blushing! :bow:

Seriously, impeccable attention to detail. I can only hope to replicate some of your results. That reminds me: I'm pretty sure I saw you installed an Espar and some electric radiant floor heater strips as well... If I'm right about that, I'm curious how well that radiant heat is working...
Thanks for the compliment.

The radiant heat was nice last winter when I was on my knees fitting out the interior. It was intended to be used with shore power but we don't plug in on trips so use the Espar D2.

@Dave Intrigued by your lifting mechanism strategy. Have you considered a 4-bar linkage? I investigated this when I was working on some battery trays. I was able to get a more-or-less vertical travel. The weight could be counterbalanced by a pressurized gas strut and the box raised electrically with an actuator.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=241493&postcount=19
 

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
May have to change my design. Stuck my head under the Transit again this afternoon, Found out there is space for a propane bottle right behind left front wheel. Can not have my cables in that area. Back to a previous iteration where I had two arms pivoting from van floor going back to the to the frame which now will be at the top. The arms will be horizontal when frame is up and they will pivot down 90 degrees. Rear end will keep the original design. Might have enough room that cables can pass by the sides of the propane bottle. Time to get it in CAD.

I have struggled with this one. Tried everything I can think of: air cylinders, rotating vertical acme threads, scissors jacks, electric actuators etc. Being stubborn, I will figure something out. Propane storage outside is important so box design has to change.

Any new ideas are appreciated.
 
Last edited:

Lrdhawkwind

New member
You have a T1N I just got mine reciently and am working on it did you ever get that propane bottle set up there it would be about perfect for me cause I just located a propane fridge for a reasonable price but being a pita to get out of the old ram conversion and of course being vaery careful as to not damage anything new there over a grand never thought I would get lucky enough to get one.
 

sparkplug

Well-known member
Do a search for "manchester tank" and you'll find a few options for exterior propane tank installations.

It's worth doing a bit of research online as there are a lot of different ways of doing this - there are even round tanks which are designed to fit in place of the spare wheel.

I personally got a tank from Gas-It in the UK but Manchester seem to be very popular stateside.

You can see some of my install here if it's helpful.
 

Top Bottom