adding an additional fuel port for espar D2

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
What is the best approach to using the Espar for heating the under-van plumbing? My GWV Legend has an Espar Hydronic that is used for cabin heating and on-demand hot water. How would I approach extending it to plumbing freeze-prevention? I know that the Advanced RV folk run the return line through a groove in the fresh tank, but I am picturing something more comprehensive than that. I am thinking of boxing in the plumbing area for starters. Should I install another heat exchanger down there, or what?
A couple of years ago I had the factory winterized Canadian Bigfoot Trailer. The manufacturer sealed under the floor tanks and plumbing with a sheet of plastic from the outside air. The air furnace pumped hot air into that space. This is my plan as well except the heating will be done with Hydronic’s coolant (not engine coolant) flowing through sections of plastic supply tubes and copper tube inside the sealed air spaces.

This http://www.foamboardsource.com/sintra-pvc-foam--sintra-pvc-board--sintra-pvc-6mm.html or alike material could be good choice for building a sealing structure or more durable material like this http://www.egilplastics.com/product-show.php?showlei=&Leiid=&n=1&id=215. In my case most of the plumbing tubes are within the under the floor left and right cavities so flat sheet attached with screws should be sufficient.

In your case a separate liquid to liquid heat exchanger could make sense in order to keep engine reliability high. I would be a little nervous having engine coolant going everywhere, just a higher potential for leaks. But this option could be complex, another coolant loop, another pump, expansion tank etc.

Another option for you, perhaps this is the one you were thinking about, could be to heat tanks and plumbing with hot air from an auxiliary heater heated by coolant. The small coolant to air heater could be installed right next to Hydronic heater minimizing risk involve with long coolant lines. Installing an air distribution manifold could be easier and more forgiving than running coolant. The 12V built heater fan should be controlled by a thermostat switch located in a coldest spot. To distribute hot air under the van from left to right you could use rectangular tubing to reduce the road clearance impact.

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/appareil-de-chauffage-d-appoint-3-425-btu-12-v/A-p4240007e

This is a very compact heater but from UK
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/cockpit-ventilation/demon-tweeks-micro-heater

Thermostat switch to control the fan, 25A resistive load should be OK.
http://www.amazon.com/Thermostat-Switch-Circuit-Large-Flange/dp/B0026S6WGK

George.
 

avanti

2022 Ford Transit 3500
In your case a separate liquid to liquid heat exchanger could make sense in order to keep engine reliability high. I would be a little nervous having engine coolant going everywhere, just a higher potential for leaks. But this option could be complex, another coolant loop, another pump, expansion tank etc.
Thanks!

Actually, my Espar is not connected to the engine coolant loop. It is a separate coach unit used as a furnace and on-demand hot water heater. I guess I could either loop some copper pipes around as per your plan, or add a second water to air heat exchanger/fan, as you suggest.

The easiest thing, I guess, would be to just put a little quartz 120VAC electric heather down there, but it would be nice to run this from diesel.
 

pkonhaus

New member
Thanks for everyones help,
I have decided that I won't need a preheater for cold starts.
So I only need the 1 extra factory fuel port for my air heater.
The Conversion company told me that they could add another port but they are concerned that the Espar fuel line would be under about 60 lbs. of pressure and that makes it hard to seal. They also said it could be a problem in the future if the heater had to be removed.
So, my order is in, and I can stop thinking about factory options.
Thanks again
 

Rensho

Member
Thanks for everyones help,
I have decided that I won't need a preheater for cold starts.
So I only need the 1 extra factory fuel port for my air heater.
The Conversion company told me that they could add another port but they are concerned that the Espar fuel line would be under about 60 lbs. of pressure and that makes it hard to seal. They also said it could be a problem in the future if the heater had to be removed.
So, my order is in, and I can stop thinking about factory options.
Thanks again
What they say is interesting...

My espar vacuums the fuel out of the factory fuel port, to the pump and then pushes (pressure) to the espar. So the factory tap has no pressure, or negative pressure, and the espar provided line (small plastic tubing) is under pressure.
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
Thanks for everyones help,
I have decided that I won't need a preheater for cold starts.
So I only need the 1 extra factory fuel port for my air heater.
The Conversion company told me that they could add another port but they are concerned that the Espar fuel line would be under about 60 lbs. of pressure and that makes it hard to seal. They also said it could be a problem in the future if the heater had to be removed.
So, my order is in, and I can stop thinking about factory options.
Thanks again
Indeed it is interesting....., may I ask if this was Sportsmobile outlet?, it would be good for others to know.

Good luck,

George.
 

K-9 SPRINTER

Well-known member
Another thing to consider... if you have the factory espars, and tap into that line, if one or both have a problem while still under warranty, MB could imply that it was due to tapping into its fuel line for the aftermarket device and deny warranty work
 

pkonhaus

New member
Yes I am working with Sportsmobile North. Chad is the guy I talked with about the extra fuel port.
Thanks again for your help.
 

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