avanti
2022 Ford Transit 3500
It's there. I can't remember the path off hand, but I think you navigate to the top and select INFORMATION or something similar.
2014 Roadtrek CS Adventurous - after 4500 Miles
- Thread starter davidmbecker
- Start date
Mein Sprinter
Known member
Not trying to hijack ones post here!
I am looking to replace my Eclipe Radio/DVD/CD, etc/TomTom GPS, with a Pioneer AVH-X2600BT that has no GPS since nothing as far as I know has beaten our separate window mounted Garmin. Anyone familiar with this radio or other radios sans GPS?
cheers...
2014/2013 CS, ETrek and RS Adventerous owners.... Are any of you experiencing a noise (whining) that appears to be emanating from the floor between the rear duel tires? It gets significantly louder when starting from a stop, accelerating and going up an incline. MB changed the drive shaft, (Sailquik's suggestion) but no change. They also balanced all tires.
When the MB expert sprinter mechanic (RT's local MB dealer) test drove it he told us he could never drive the RV with such a noise, even if it was given to him for free. So we know it is not just us being too sensitive to ..characteristic.. noise. MB service adviser also initially agreed the noise level was significant but later said they can't do anything more. There was mention (another MB service manager) of maybe it being the differential. Does anyone know if MB made any changes to the differential design, and as such they would hesitate to admit having any issues with it?
We need to determine if it is something wrong with just our vehicle. Any suggestions as to what else it could be? Would appreciate hearing from other owners, EVEN if just to say you are NOT experiencing such a noise, so we will have something to go back to MB with; insisting why does ours have the excessive noise and others do not!
When the MB expert sprinter mechanic (RT's local MB dealer) test drove it he told us he could never drive the RV with such a noise, even if it was given to him for free. So we know it is not just us being too sensitive to ..characteristic.. noise. MB service adviser also initially agreed the noise level was significant but later said they can't do anything more. There was mention (another MB service manager) of maybe it being the differential. Does anyone know if MB made any changes to the differential design, and as such they would hesitate to admit having any issues with it?
We need to determine if it is something wrong with just our vehicle. Any suggestions as to what else it could be? Would appreciate hearing from other owners, EVEN if just to say you are NOT experiencing such a noise, so we will have something to go back to MB with; insisting why does ours have the excessive noise and others do not!
Mein Sprinter
Known member
Could it be possible that the whine comes from the configuration of the build underneath; wind channelings; backdraft; roof draft, etc....whistling pipes!!??
cheers...
That's really good mileage - my mileage is exactly 19.0 over 3500 miles; that is also mostly highway driving but includes a lot of southwest gradients.
I would recommend Borg solid extended valves which are shaped for the duallies. If you Google DL1SPAL you will see them for sale.
Peter
davidmbecker
Member
So, I have finally convinced the dealer to remove the OEM batteries and just leave the Northstar batteries. I took a trip for 4 days and everything worked perfectly. Here is what I have learned over these 8 months.
1. Do not mix batteries no matter what. The inverter is not "smart" enough on the Roadtreks to equalize the draws from the various power draws.
2. Roadtrek buys their own batteries, so if you want to add batteries, you have to replace all the batteries.
3. There is no good spot to add extra batteries other than the behind the rear sofa. Yes, it sucks and yes you lose a lot of storage. But, like everything else with a class B, the entire experience is a bunch of compromises.
4. The 760AMP/Hours I have with the 4 Northstar batteries is plenty of power.
5. If you use the electric heat, fridge, run the TV and a bunch of lights while being plugged into shore power, there is still a negative power draw which surprised the heck out of me. I showed a negative 1.8A. So, this is another reason why adding extra batteries is a good idea. Now, this could be that the electrical was not so great at the campsite, but the reality is still the same.
6. Adding the SETEC or some external monitor is essential. Not only can I geek out, but it gives me important information that I have been able to relay back to the dealer when there was a charging problem. Based upon my feedback, the dealer found that the engine generator cable was loose.
Overall, this was one heck of a painful learning experience. I hope that it helps everyone else out there that is looking to do something similar.
aaagong@yahoo.com
Member
Can you please let me know where did you get the sash lock from? I think that is exactly what I need for my RT SS.Hi Mein,
Our RT had same rattling bathroom door problem the day we got it. I know there was an old thread here about mods on how to stop that pesky bathroom door rattles.
Our bi-fold bathroom door is now solid as a rock, no rattles. Here is what I did on ours:
Made the countersunk hole on the latch a little bit deeper.
Tapered the end of screw-down lock knob to better mate with the conical shaped countersink hole on the latch.
Added felt pads in between the bi-fold doors about every foot or so to provide counter pressure while doors are locked.
Although the above mods alone is sufficient enough to fix our door rattles, I added a sash lock to the bottom part of the door for extra hold as the kids would sometimes push the latched door from inside the bathroom causing the latch to bend a little.
Sash-lock close-up. Easy to locl/unlock with just single flick of the locking lever.
http://s29.postimg.org/adt7y7tav/sash_lock_open.jpg
2011 Agile
RT.SS
Active member
Sorry for the late reply. I got the sash lock from our local hardware store (Homedepot).
aaagong@yahoo.com
Member
After 30,000 miles of bathroom rattle and noise, I installed the same sash lock yesterday, unbelievable!! the bathroom door noise has GONE! Many thanks RT.SS.
2011 Agile
TheTortoise
New member
David
On the CS Adventurous.
1. If you replace the batteries for rv unit, say with Lithium Ion, can you leave the starter battery for engine alone.
2. If inside at night and you have a few lights on or just using the computer maybe with one light, can someone tell, that lights are on, from outside the unit with blinds closed. This question goes for Urban Camping
Thanks
doug
On the CS Adventurous.
1. If you replace the batteries for rv unit, say with Lithium Ion, can you leave the starter battery for engine alone.
2. If inside at night and you have a few lights on or just using the computer maybe with one light, can someone tell, that lights are on, from outside the unit with blinds closed. This question goes for Urban Camping
Thanks
doug
Doug,
I was not asked in your note but have some thoughts
1. From what I have read mixing battery chemistries is not a good idea. Also, I believe the RT inverter charger will not properly charge lithium batteries
2. Based on my observations you can see light when b oth shades are down and probably vague shadows if the person inside is in just the right position. One has to be carefuldrawing the front window curtain to make certain one cannot see around the curtain from the outside.
For additional warmth in colder weather and sometimes security, I hang a thick poly blanket from the front upper cabinet just behind the front seats, it goes,all,the way to the floor, and also goes over the sliding door. It essentially seals off the driver's compartment from the back of the coach. I love the front windows but they do let in a lot of cold at times.
davidmbecker
Member
1. I agree with Doug. Do not mix batteries. Also, the battery that runs the starter is completely isolated from the Roadtrek installed batteries. In the CS, I believe it is located under the drivers seat. Also, I asked about lithium ion. Everyone said that the best in terms of ruggedness was the Northstar AGM batteries. After removing the other AGM batteries, it was like magic. All my previous electrical gremlin issues went away. So, in my case, lesson learned.
2. Doug is correct on this as well. People are going to know that the RV is occupied. The privacy is there, but the stealthiness you are looking for is not.
Davydd
Well-known member
The chassis battery is an AGM under the driver's floor. It is pretty much maintenance free and you don't even have to get to it to charge or jump it as there is a terminal for that under the hood. It is not interconnected with house batteries so you can use any battery of choice. We have 800ah of lithium ion batteries in our Advanced RV.
TheTortoise
New member
Thanks Davydd
I figured that the house batteries were separate system for charge. You confirmed. Thanks everyone else too
I noticed on some other forums that I can just put some Velcro around window and have a piece of fabric (thick) made to cover window to give stealth. The picture below uses snaps.
Like this from www.outsidevan.com
I figured that the house batteries were separate system for charge. You confirmed. Thanks everyone else too
I noticed on some other forums that I can just put some Velcro around window and have a piece of fabric (thick) made to cover window to give stealth. The picture below uses snaps.
Like this from www.outsidevan.com
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mowog
Member
Checked out their website- very nice! The one I like just sold for $280,000 (maybe they got a discount). Some nice ideas though.Thanks Davydd
I figured that the house batteries were separate system for charge. You confirmed. Thanks everyone else too
I noticed on some other forums that I can just put some Velcro around window and have a piece of fabric (thick) made to cover window to give stealth. The picture below uses snaps.
Like this from www.outsidevan.com
Bob Skillman
Ellicott City, MD
2011 RS
davidmbecker
Member
DEAR LORD! That is ridiculous. You could buy a new Roadtrek and a very nice sprinter Class C....and enough left over for a boat and a toy hauler.
OutsideVan is doing one thing I like: making consumers believe custom cargo vans should cost more than most people's houses. This is good for DIY conversions because it increases their value.