What's the CODE skinny on P2511 or 2511

landersprinter

New member
Okay,

so I have 2006 long and tall sprinter with 162,000 hwy mile on it. Just replaced the transmission last week with one from silver star in Norman, OK. I put 500 miles on it last week after the install and the trans was good but did have the RSN

Just did 1000 miles; and half coming back was in the limp mode. So with my DAD system I read the code on sprinter and get a P2511 Left EGS Positioner...thats it for codes. So now I'm thinking some sort of EGR code. And when I search this forum I see a ton about this code and how it is a EGR code.

So while I'm on the road I get out my "Complete Sprinter Fault Code Guide Volume 1 2000-2006" North American Edition by Eric J Ord and the P2511 code is a and I qoute
" Torque converter lockup clutch has excessive power consumption"

But if I look up the code without the p and just 2511 I see a "Exhaust gas recirulation positoner"

Anyhow I find it weird on this forum that most if not all theads with the p2511 are all EGR codes. Is my book wrong? I was thinking that my transmission was the trouble because I replaced it last week and the code I read but as I search around everyone is talking EGR stuff.

I'm sure I left more questions than ansewers as I am far from a mechanic. But I carry the DAD on the road with me so I don't get hosed by a dealership if I'm broke down in there shop.

I think my books wrong but I did just put in the remaned transmission??? What gives?

Got home in the dark and have not looked under the hood to see what I see

Thanks in advance
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
The DAD companion Sprinter Fault Code Guide is correct. The mistake you are making is not matching the fault code number with the specific module you found the code in.

For instance, 2511 is a MBenz assigned code number but it refers to 2 very different faults if found in the ECM or TCM. That number is used in both those modules and is assigned to 2 very different faults. Which module did you find it in?

Also, be sure you refer to your correct Engine module type in the fault guide. CDI2 is the '01-'03 Engine module version and CDI3 is the 647 version ECM used in '04-'06.

Doktor A
 

landersprinter

New member
Thanks Andy, I thought you would have the info on this. And it does make sense now as the code is coming from the ECM for the CD13 for my 2006.

I'm off to do some trouble shooting.

Best regards,
 
Hello,
I have the same code and LHM. "P2511 Left EGS Positioner.." There are no codes under the TCM. I cycled the EGR and seems to work fine. If I try to clear the code with the engine running it will not clear.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Sven
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
Hello,
I have the same code and LHM. "P2511 Left EGS Positioner.." There are no codes under the TCM. I cycled the EGR and seems to work fine. If I try to clear the code with the engine running it will not clear.
I suggest carefully inspecting the connectors at both end of the engine harness, testing the 3 wires for continuity, short to ground, short to +, and finally testing with a known good EGR valve.

Doktor A
 
Thanks for your reply Andy! :cheers:

I did run the EGR test feature once more. Also, it did change the values, it did not change the engine sound, which I normally hear when doing that test. Also there is a loud shrill squeaking sound for about 15 seconds after I shut down the engine. It clearly comes from the EGR valve. I will remove it tomorrow for further inspection and will report back.

Sven
 
I suggest carefully inspecting the connectors at both end of the engine harness, testing the 3 wires for continuity, short to ground, short to +, and finally testing with a known good EGR valve.

Doktor A
Okay, lremoved the EGR valve and cleaned it. It was sticking a litle bit. I also checked the harness and it is okay. I checked the continuity of all three wires. From the right looking at the bottom of the plug, there is one unused position , next is ground, then 12V , and the last one has 3V, with ignition ON. Cross reading shows no continuity - so that's good. When actuating the EGR valve with DAD it works fine now. Still I get this funky error code. Why does it say left "LEFT EGS POSITIONER" and we are lookoing at an EGR failure, even so I do think as well that I have an EGR failure? When I was test driving I can reset the CDI engine faults and get out of LHM for a short time.
So what is next - buy a new EGR valve?

Thanks for any help up front!!

Sven
 

jmoller99

Own a DAD ODB2 Unit.
You might consider trying the EGR override circuit (Colorado_Al found this and has tested it) and see if it eliminates the error (the EGR is effectively simulated as far as the ECU is concerned, and no longer needs to be plugged in).

See:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19224

If the error goes away, then you probably have a bad EGR valve, or something that feeds it ECU info (like the MAF) may have some issue.
 
You might consider trying the EGR override circuit (Colorado_Al found this and has tested it) and see if it eliminates the error (the EGR is effectively simulated as far as the ECU is concerned, and no longer needs to be plugged in).

See:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19224

If the error goes away, then you probably have a bad EGR valve, or something that feeds it ECU info (like the MAF) may have some issue.
Yes thank you, l will very likely modify, but don't have time the next 2weeks. I just do not like this strange error message, and would like to know why it says what it says. The EGR mod is definetly the way to go if the valve is bad.
Thanks for you reply.

Sven
 

Kami

New member
Hallo,

I would like to bring this topic back to life..

I have also a big issue with my EGR.

I bought a new (used) one and installed it in my car. I went to Mercedes garage to delete the failer code which worked perfect. But after 200m, the control light came back and it went back to the garage. They have made a test and the result was exactly the same I had before: 2511-001 Y27 (EGR).
I´m wondering, because the used part I bought at a dealer should work (he has tested it.. but don´t ask me how.)
I have checked the part numbers from the old and the new:
old:646140VV60
new:646140V_60

Is maybe that the difference, that the old one have 2 x V and the new one just 1??
By the way, how can I test the EGR itself? Once it is plugged in and I start the engine, the EGR valve should make a test and open and close? Is that right?
I did that, so I just connected the cable without srewing the EGR into his original position. Than I turned the key in position 2... nothing. Than I started the engine.. nothing.. so, am I on the right way, to say the EGR is fault??

Thanks a lot..

btw: Picture one: THE NEW (used) EGR
picture 2: the old one... there the can see also, why I need to replace it. The metal snapper is cancelled :-(
 

jmoller99

Own a DAD ODB2 Unit.
Your MAF can throw EGR errors - this is because the MAF voltage is averaged into the PWM signal of the EGR. If your MAF has a failure mode that is not throwing an error, that does not mean that it is not fouling up the EGR operations.
 

Kami

New member
I have measured the voltages on the different wires yesterday:
1) Ground
2) 12.V
3.) 3.24V
As far as I know, this is more or less okay.
What is maybe also a important information: I don not have a Sprinter, I have a W639 VITO 115 CDI from 2004.. but the engine and the technik is pretty much the same.
 

jmoller99

Own a DAD ODB2 Unit.
The EGR uses a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal - it is not a steady state voltage that moves up or down - These PWM signals are square waves of varying widths (depending on how much the EGR is supposed to be open or not). Reading with a volt meter will not tell you a lot. I used an oscilloscope to diagnose problems with mine (turned out to be a bad connection on the booset sensor). My error (2002 NAFTA T1N Sprinter) was 1470, not 2511, You can get EGR errors if you have a turbo hose air leak (or if the turbo resonator has an air leak).
 

uglied

uglied
Stop farting around and buy a new EGR Valve. Less than $600.00 from Europarts. Cleaned my old one twice. Still the same problems. New one 10K miles ago and all problems gone. Not worth farting around with.
 

doobiou

New member
+1 on the egr replacement.

I went into limp mode (still could go 60 mph) i removed mine cleaned the egr, and it still didnt work. Then, I ordered the resistor, it did nothing. Then i busted two threads and helicoil-ed the threads and replaced with a new egr. Van runs perfectly now.

Oh- I also changed the oil and oil filter.
 

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