Onan generator oil change procedures

Can anyone point me to the DIY for Agile Onan generator oil change procedures? The meter show 100hrs usage now. I believe oil need be changed at 120 hours.

Thanks in advance,
2011 Agile

aaagong@yahoo.com said:

Can anyone point me to the DIY for Agile Onan generator oil change procedures? The meter show 100hrs usage now. I believe oil need be changed at 120 hours.

Thanks in advance,
2011 Agile

Click to expand...

Personally, I would change the oil more often, say 50 hours. There is only a bit of oil in the crankcase...less than a litre so it takes a beating, especially if it is hot.

I would get a hand vacuum pump, then simply remove the side cover, stick the pump pick up in the dipstick hole and suck the oil out. Then refill, but don't over fill. Very easy and clean. If you don't wish to beg, borrow, buy or steal a pump, pull the drain plug and let it drain into a suitable pan.

This is the one I like, but there are lots out there even cheaper. I use mine to do all my oil change stuff, cars, boats, stationary engines etc. Best tool I own nearly.

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-...&qid=1440618066&sr=8-4&keywords=Oil+extractor

PS Warm the oil by running the genny for a bit before you change.

Icarus

icarus said:

Personally, I would change the oil more often, say 50 hours. There is only a bit of oil in the crankcase...less than a litre so it takes a beating, especially if it is hot.

I would get a hand vacuum pump, then simply remove the side cover, stick the pump pick up in the dipstick hole and suck the oil out. Then refill, but don't over fill. Very easy and clean. If you don't wish to beg, borrow, buy or steal a pump, pull the drain plug and let it drain into a suitable pan.

This is the one I like, but there are lots out there even cheaper. I use mine to do all my oil change stuff, cars, boats, stationary engines etc. Best tool I own nearly.

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-...&qid=1440618066&sr=8-4&keywords=Oil+extractor

PS Warm the oil by running the genny for a bit before you change.

Icarus

Click to expand...

Would that also work for the transmission fluid?
I would still replace the filter from below,but maybe this would reduce the mess?

I'm sure you can suck a lot of the tranny fluid out of the dipstick. That said I have never tried it, as I leave trans service to others. I really am not interested in lying under the van taking out and putting in pan bolts!

Icarus

On my 2004 LTV Free Spirit, the Onan Microlite 2.5kvfa26120k sits just behind the rear differential.

Oil is drained from a steel bolt/plug, just like a car. Getting oil in is difficult due to the lack of overhead clearance. Some people use a pump.

I had a free bicycle type water bottle I got at an event. I just poured the oil (Mobil 1) in bottle, and used the nozzle to squirt it into the generator. A bit tedious, but worked.

You should seriously consider changing air filter at the same time. Less dirty trips in your life.

FYI: For my Onan, the air filter part number is 140-2105. The one on Amazon is WRONG. DO NOT ORDER THIS ONE:
http://www.amazon.com/Cummins-Onan-140-2105-Air-Filter/dp/B00PXJRKN8

Part number is correct. Picture is wrong. What is shipped is wrong. That is my review.

Most cities have a local Cummins dealer. They will have it or get it for you without shipping and cheaper than many of the online options.
http://locator.cummins.com/GlobalLocator

icarus said:

I'm sure you can suck a lot of the tranny fluid out of the dipstick. That said I have never tried it, as I leave trans service to others. I really am not interested in lying under the van taking out and putting in pan bolts!

Icarus

Click to expand...

I used to do that on my 04 Sienna. Worked great. Also, regular OCs on my power equipment and cars. Haven't tried it on the Sprinter.

I have a Pella 6000.

aaagong@yahoo.com said:

Can anyone point me to the DIY for Agile Onan generator oil change procedures? The meter show 100hrs usage now. I believe oil need be changed at 120 hours.

Thanks in advance,
2011 Agile

Click to expand...

Yep.... you can use a sucker.... problem is getting it under the van. Just get some more tubing so you can keep the vacuum bottle from under the RV. And someone to pump it would be an excellent idea. I've done that.... also used it on my 3600LP. Works great.

Also, it's important to know EXACTLY how to check the oil level. Both my 2500 and 3600 had/have yellow caps with a dip stick. You take it out.... wipe it... screw it back in...unscrew it and check the level on the stick.... Don't make the mistake of sitting on the opening and checking the level as in some engines. I keep mine about mid-way on the hashed area with the oil COLD. Oil will expand in volume when it's at operating temperature....

Check the manual or OC intervals .... on line if necessary. A quick Google and exercising my gray cells about the 2500LP on my Ventura.

First OC @ 20 hrs. Then every 150 hrs. My 3600 LP is 20hrs/200hrs.

Since its LP I'd feel confident in running out to at least 100hrs. Maybe 150, since LP is a lot cleaner than gasoline & diesel.

Oil selection depends on ambient temps during the next oil change cycle. You don't say where you are. Here in Texas it must be 140F + under the van on a 100F day. Were it me..... considering that the genny is under the van & close to the hot road surface..... I'd go with 15W40. The 15W rating will take you down to MINUS 10 F.

Get the ONAN (ONAMAX) oil. Pricey but you only need a bit less than a liter. My reasoning is that the ONAMAX is spec'd for air cooled motors. They are not diesels. Diesel oil is spec'd for diesels and has a whole different additive package. Diesel oil will work.... but the additive package is not the best.

Some relevant files.

Microlite 2800 user manual, oil change procedure page, and oil weight chart.

There was some discussion and disagreement (surprise!) here and other places about the correct oil to use.

From what I understand, single weight oil (30w) is often recommended for air cooled engines due to higher operating temperatures. (The higher temperatures break down the multi-weight faster)

That being said, I used Mobil 1 10w-40 because I had some left over from my previous motorcycle, and Mobil 1 is awesome. There is no 10w-40 on the list, but OnaMax is a 15w-40.

^the manual linked above calls for a 100 hour change interval. As I said earlier, I would change it sooner. For the price of 1 liter of oil, it seems to be cheap insurance. Certainly change annually.

Icarus

icarus said:

Personally, I would change the oil more often, say 50 hours. There is only a bit of oil in the crankcase...less than a litre so it takes a beating, especially if it is hot.

I would get a hand vacuum pump, then simply remove the side cover, stick the pump pick up in the dipstick hole and suck the oil out. Then refill, but don't over fill. Very easy and clean. If you don't wish to beg, borrow, buy or steal a pump, pull the drain plug and let it drain into a suitable pan.

This is the one I like, but there are lots out there even cheaper. I use mine to do all my oil change stuff, cars, boats, stationary engines etc. Best tool I own nearly.

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-...&qid=1440618066&sr=8-4&keywords=Oil+extractor

PS Warm the oil by running the genny for a bit before you change.

Icarus

Click to expand...

Thanks Icarus!

I found following link which has the lowest price for air filter. But just can't find any where in my Onan manual which specifies the spark plug brand/type can be used in model 2800.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Fac...ter-/181833247008?hash=item2a561b2920&vxp=mtr

It is most likely a NGK B6 (my preferred brand!) or a Champion H10 C. When in doubt pull the one one and cross reference it. I would bet that the Onan PN/branded plugs are champions.

Icarus

http://www.jsesc.com/mfg_docs/ste/Spark_Plug_Application.pdf

not to get a big discussion going, but I was "thinking" that when you check the oil on the generator you do not screw the dipstick back in. you check it without screwing back down.

Do I have it wrong?


Richard

RTFM!

Your manual is your friend. Most small engines (but certainly not all) require the dipstick unscrewed.

Icarus

jasper2222 said:

not to get a big discussion going, but I was "thinking" that when you check the oil on the generator you do not screw the dipstick back in. you check it without screwing back down.

Do I have it wrong?


Richard

Click to expand...

Best check your manual...... Applications vary.

(On my 2500 and 3600 LPs with the yellow dipstick thingie..... Remove, wipe, screw in till they just seat, remove, check. )

BTW: Most auto parts stores sell oil for air-cooled engines labeled as "Motorcycle oil".

As Icarus and Old Crows said, it is best to check the manual on the recommended method of checking the oil level.

I checked mine (manual) on a Onan Microlite and the manual says that it is not necessary to screw the plug in to get an oil reading. I guess Onan is trying "hedge" on the method. Not necessary, but if you do, I guess it is ok. Doesn't make a lot of sense.

My only assumption would be, if you do not screw it in, you would have a reading that shows a little more in the oil pan. I guess that is OK.