a/c problems

spp

New member
2006 sprinter,

I just can't believe the problems I have had with this truck...and the incompetance of my dodge dealership, Lee dodge of commack new york. After about 20 different vehichles I have either leased or owned this sprinter has by far been the least reliable. Now I have a problem with my A/C. I'm hoping its just a recharge problem, however I can't understand how after just 1.5 summers that it should need a recharge. I never had this problem b4. In fact I can't remember a time I needed a recharge in any vehicle over the last 35yrs. I have 3k+ on my warranty but I get the shakes even thinking of bringing it to a dodge dealership. Please let someone tell me that there is a A/c recharge problem with t1n sprinter so I can just take it to my local mechanic to recharge it and avoid going to the dealership!!! Each time I go to a dodge dealership, not only are they unable to repair the original problem but they return the truck with a new problem. HELP.:bash::idunno::cry:
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
Any competent automotive A/C repair technician can help diagnose electrical problems, leaks, repair/replace parts and recharge the system. I do not recommend you DIY with a quick Walmart recharge kit-find out WHY the system is down (it may not necessarily need recharging) and go from there. Doktor A
 

mean_in_green

>2,000,000m in MB vans
The condenser is the weak point in the system, not least because of its location: in the direct line of fire from debris flung up by other vehicles. Not a problem unique to Sprinters though.

My AC guy reckons that nine times out of ten the leak will originate from the condenser, even if it can't be positively detected. He filled my system with UV dye as a matter of routine, to help future leak tracing.

The type of connectors used in the plumbing system are far from ideal sadly, and more prone to leaks than other types available. Other superior connectors existed at model introduction in 2000.

His advice with AC is "use it or lose it". Like a lot of things, AC systems don't like being idle.

I found vibration caused failure of the condensor connections on mine. The plumbing could be better isolated from vibration here, and my AC guy reported other similar cases. The pipes are now further rubber mounted in the hope of maximising system life.

I also had an electrical fault with the main temperature control panel: power was coming into it and illuminating the red telltale, but no power was leaving the panel. Luckily I found one on ebay at half the dealer price (which is £200!).

MIG
 
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jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
His advice with AC is "use it or lose it". Like a lot of things, AC systems don't like being idle.
MIG
Is there any more concrete guidance available from him like, "a few minutes a day," or "a few minutes a week?"

Currently, when I think about it, I'll run mine for something between 45 seconds and 5 minutes a month.

Does that constitute "using it?"

-Jon
 

mean_in_green

>2,000,000m in MB vans
I'll ask his advice and update Jon.

Some advocate using it continually, but I haven't done that with mine and it works fine. I view the repairs as acceptable given use and age.

If I understand it correctly the refrigerant carries the system's lubrication. Seals are more likely to dry out if system is used infrequently. This is where leaks can then begin.

Simon
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
Re: a/c problems (Tech Alert)

A/C Tech Alert for those of you in the rust belt climates- regarding the short aluminum pipe/ rubber hose combo that runs from the receiver/dryer canister to the condensor(in front of radiator)-be sure to watch for accumulated dirt, debris and moisture that can collect along the panel that this pipe rests on (look to left and under battery, there is a cushioned clamp securing this pipe to panel).

I have seen several leak failures with corrosion and pin point perforation of this pipe. Clean this area and spray a corrosion proofing agent on that pipe. Doktor A
 
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220629

Well-known member
Re: a/c problems (Tech Alert)

A/C Tech Alert for those of you in the rust belt climates- regarding the short aluminum pipe/ rubber hose combo that runs from the receiver/dryer canister to the condensor(in front of radiator)-be sure to watch for accumulated dirt, debris and moisture that can collect along the panel that this pipe rests on (look to left and under battery, there is a cushioned clamp securing this pipe to panel).

I have seen several leak failures with corrosion and pin point perforation of this pipe. Clean this area and spray a corrosion proofing agent on that pipe. Doktor A
Doktor A,
I know that others have thanked you, but as a new (used) owner I want you to know that I really appreciate your tech tips and warnings regarding the Sprinters. I've learned that a bit of visual inspection and looking for potential problems can save a bunch of work. (On new to me vehicles I traditionally take a one pound can of wheel bearing grease, crawl under and smear grease on every threaded part, brake line clip, hose clamp, etc. I can see. It really helps with work down the road.) Unfortunately I don't have experience with the Sprinters so you provide me a real service.

You certainly put a bunch of time and effort into posting and helping make this forum worthwhile reading for any owner. Thanks again. vic
 

spp

New member
Re: a/c problems (Tech Alert)

A/C Tech Alert for those of you in the rust belt climates- regarding the short aluminum pipe/ rubber hose combo that runs from the receiver/dryer canister to the condensor(in front of radiator)-be sure to watch for accumulated dirt, debris and moisture that can collect along the panel that this pipe rests on (look to left and under battery, there is a cushioned clamp securing this pipe to panel).

I have seen several leak failures with corrosion and pin point perforation of this pipe. Clean this area and spray a corrosion proofing agent on that pipe. Doktor A
most ridiculous!! IN THIS DAY AND AGE TO HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT OR DEAL WITH SUCH PROBLEMS!!! DODGE is, for the most part, well like, the foolish GEICO CAVEMAN ADS. To be expected, but "THE MOST EXALTED MERCEDES BENZ" hell NO!!!! DR. z you were in the big seatee when this behemouth was introduced and sold....so grow up, earn your bucks, and deal with it!!! I have experienced (runners) like you in the past! Are you just another learnining experience to those brighter than yourself or do you need to deal with your wake as competant individuals will!!!!!!!!!!!! actions are ??? Braveheart mate!!! This vehichle is like the Black plague JACK!!!!!!!!!!!
 

AzteK

Blah Blah Blibbidy Blah!
Re: a/c problems (Tech Alert)

Whow, someone needs to lay off the caffeine!

Anyway, my AC stopped working last year. Took it in when it was still just under warrenty. They found a leak (dont remember where) it had to do with a seal though, guess it got dried up or something? So, before they found the problem, they recharged it, and put in the UV dye as well. Told me if I wanted, I can looka round for leaks every night with a black light to help them out. I couldnt find anything. Took it back in (not sure why, it was possible the AC wasnt putting out as good as it was once recharged.) They looked at it, and within the hour they told me they found the leak with some seals. So they put new seals in, recharged again, and all was dandy. I used the AC for about 10 minutes every 2 to 4 weeks, winter or not. My AC is no longer working again :( Asked the dealership if there is warrenty on the goods they installed, and there is, so I got to get it in the shop soon so they can take a look at it. Maybe they can do a better fix this time, and maybe tell me some hints and tips other then, "dont drive it, you'll break it!"

With the weather getting warmer and warmer, and the work getting harder, I need my AC... open windows just dont cut it!
 

mean_in_green

>2,000,000m in MB vans
I'll ask his advice and update Jon.
So, here's the guru's advice:

Left off for long peroids water or air can get into your a/c system. The moisture reacts with the refrigerant creating acid. This attacks the system seals and plumbing.

With standard manually controlled system you would ideally use it continually. At the least, operate at full cold for ten minutes weekly (even in winter) to lubricate. Then switch to full heat ten minutes to dry pipes out. This removes moisture from system, helps prevent mould and bacteria developing.

Climate control systems should be left on all the time.

Service at least bi-annually.

The two main causes of system failure are low gas (leaks through seals and connectors) or component breakdown.

Simon
 

220629

Well-known member
So, here's the guru's advice:

Left off for long peroids water or air can get into your a/c system. The moisture reacts with the refrigerant creating acid. This attacks the system seals and plumbing.

With standard manually controlled system you would ideally use it continually. At the least, operate at full cold for ten minutes weekly (even in winter) to lubricate. Then switch to full heat ten minutes to dry pipes out. This removes moisture from system, helps prevent mould and bacteria developing.

Climate control systems should be left on all the time.

Service at least bi-annually.

The two main causes of system failure are low gas (leaks through seals and connectors) or component breakdown.

Simon
I completely agree with operating the A/C and booster heat system at least 10 minutes every month as my Sprinter manual advises. All equipment is better off seeing some regular service time.

I'm having a bit of trouble figuring out how air and moisture get into the system while down. When the pressurized A/C system shuts down the gas inside equalizes pressure. That means as long as the system has a charge it is at higher pressure than the atmosphere. Does he figure the air and moisture get in by capillary action at the seals? If not that way how else?
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
Simon,

Thank you - and please express the same to your guru - for the actionable advice.

-Jon
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
I'm having a bit of trouble figuring out how air and moisture get into the system while down.
I think it's cause and effect. System is not run for a long period of time, seals dry out, and the air and moisture gets in.

My S-10's a/c was not functioning so I took it down to the local Jiffy Lube (yeah I know, :rolleyes:) for inspection and dye. The service technicians didn't know that I was the owner of the S-10 standing there, joked about why this certain customer needed a recharge in the middle of January. Some comment about wanting a blizzard appear in the cab made me laugh too. :laughing: One of them did ask me why I needed a/c in the cold of winter, which I replied, the defroster works better with a/c (in fact, the compressor comes on defacto in most vehicles now).

I guess I'm speaking highly of Jiffy Lube technicians, but I thought they would know this. :thinking:
 

spp

New member
Re: lkqwan/c problems

silkwan,

Of course, generally speaking, would a jiffy lube be a a place where I might have my a/c sys. tested for leaks and recharged. even though my sprinter is still under warranty if your ans. is, (even a qualified yes), I'm there. I trust a high school drop out looking to better himself more than I trust a so called "trained" dodge tech!
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
Of course, generally speaking, would a jiffy lube be a a place where I might have my a/c sys. tested for leaks and recharged. even though my sprinter is still under warranty if your ans. is, (even a qualified yes), I'm there. I trust a high school drop out looking to better himself more than I trust a so called "trained" dodge tech!
Most of the technicians that work on the A/C out of Jiffy Lube or any place for that matter need to be certified. I don't think the guberment will let you have an auto shop that can service auto A/C without some training/certification.

With that said, do your homework by shopping around or asking for referrals. Even the stand up auto shops can muck things up at times. I wouldn't hesitate to go back to that one Jiffy Lube, to that one guy that serviced my S-10. I watched and talked to him when he worked so I was satisfied.
 

spp

New member
Jiffy lube visit 05/18/08,



My a/c seems to be, at last, working. FOR HOW LONG I CAN'T SAY, $164.00 later. Jiffy lube recharged the systemn. My Sprinter has seen 1.5 summers. I have a Honda CRV 1997. in addition to a 1999 and a 2001, that have NEVER NEEDED an A/C recharge!!! Daimler (CEREBUS) chrysler please send me your customer list for the northeast of the UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. If You and Chrysler can fool, use, deceive, con, these folks...... then by doing the right job, at a modest profit, I might be able to be a stepping stone to restoring consumer confidence among our populace!!!! I have advanced degrees in management and industrial psychology!! Your Dodge people seem to have advanced degrees in opulent vacations!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Brain dead does no longer cut it!!!!
 

poiuytrewq

New member
Maybe i can contribute a little here. Moisture and air are very bad for a refrigeration system, however unless the system is completely out of freon, and the low pressure switch has been bypassed(so the4 compressor can pull a vaccume) air and moisture cannot get in the system. -Or the mechanic put air in the system. Simply put leaks are the biggest problem. There is a ceramic seal at the compressor shaft where the oil is the seal- if you dont engage the clutch from time to time you could loose some refrigerant from that point- this is in theory, i dont think it is something i have seen personally. Also i do believe that when you turn on the windshield defrost on in the winter the compressor also starts to help dehumidify the air- therefore clearing the moisture from the windshield faster(i know the GM's-fords do this) So running the A/C in the winter should be unnecessary. I dont think we can blame Dodge for this one- most cars i have had, leak in 2-3 years, there are exceptions but it is not so uncommon a problem. Lately i have seen R134a sold over the counter in toronto, $10 per can. So if she leaks out 2-3 tinmes a year- just fill her up for $10.
 

BULBASOR

Active member
Hey spp, I had a little 'mishap' with a deer outside of Sanora Texas the day after I picked up BULBASOR brand new. When I got home he went to the Dodge dealer to have his nose fixed - (had deer guts in the grill and busted bumper parts) - so while we are waiting for parts from Germany to fix BULBASOR he sits in thier yard at the dealer for like TWO MONTHS. Sure enough - when I get BULBASOR back all shiney with a new nose - no AC . . . so I go back. So, the dealer recharged the AC and checked for leaks. No leaks. He said if it goes out again he will replace the entire plumbing system, but, it never has.

The AC unit seals are lubricated from the freon fluid / gas stuff that gets pumped around in all the plumbing when the compressor is running. If the compressor is not running - no lubricant is flowing thru the pipes and seals at connectors and valves can dry out (like the rubber gets HARD) and the 'stuff' leaks out. It takes the seals over a month to dry out. USUALLY, if they are re-hydrated before cracks form no damage is done. (Cracking the hard rubber usually takse about six months or more). Someday they will invent rubber that lasts forever without any chemical conditioner but so far - it don't exist.

Now, my VOLVO had the same problem - but the seals were so shrunken and dried out that when they tried to recharge it the gas was squirting out of the rotton seals faster than they could squirt the stuff back in so they gave up and gave me back my VOLVO with an apology and a recomendation to replace the AC (400 dollars). Well, while driving home I ran the compressor on the VOLVO and guess what? All those seals rehydrated before all the freon was expelled and the AC cold air kicked in after about a mile of driving. That was two years ago and the VOLVO is still blowing cold AC but I make it a point to run the AC every WEEK for at least five minutes.

Wanna know why your HONDA and ALL your American and Japanese cars don't loose coolant in the AC? Because in American and Japanese cars the AC compressor TURNS ON EVERY TIME YOU RUN THE WINDOW DEFROSTER and in some cars it comes one every time you use the fan for heat OR cold. Detroit did this on American cars to exersize the compressor and lubricate the seals.

Mecedes does not do any of that stuf - nor does BMW or VOLVO. I have a BMW 740IL and the compressor NEVER comes on unless I use the AC - same with my VOLVO - and BULBASOR too. Even my ESPAR AUX water heater went out because I let the glow plug dry up to a crisp by not running it for 2 years. (Dodge fixed that one for free too). It just seems to me that the people in Europe have a different attitude about cars in general. They seem to feel that if your not technical enough to know the workings of your automobile, and well trained in how to drive it and how to take care of it - then you should not drive one. They make you take driver tests over there that make you proove that you can run corners at high speed and know how to steer through skids and it's like going to the Bob Bobderaunt school of racing or somthing.

Anyway - the premier car of Germany - the BMW - has NO CUP HOLDERS. In germany they can't understand why in the worls a person would want cup holders. They take driving very more seriously than Americans. It does make maintenance a bit of a challenge.

What else are you having trouble with besides the AC?
 

spp

New member
Maybe i can contribute a little here. Moisture and air are very bad for a refrigeration system, however unless the system is completely out of freon, and the low pressure switch has been bypassed(so the4 compressor can pull a vaccume) air and moisture cannot get in the system. -Or the mechanic put air in the system. Simply put leaks are the biggest problem. There is a ceramic seal at the compressor shaft where the oil is the seal- if you dont engage the clutch from time to time you could loose some refrigerant from that point- this is in theory, i dont think it is something i have seen personally. Also i do believe that when you turn on the windshield defrost on in the winter the compressor also starts to help dehumidify the air- therefore clearing the moisture from the windshield faster(i know the GM's-fords do this) So running the A/C in the winter should be unnecessary. I dont think we can blame Dodge for this one- most cars i have had, leak in 2-3 years, there are exceptions but it is not so uncommon a problem. Lately i have seen R134a sold over the counter in toronto, $10 per can. So if she leaks out 2-3 tinmes a year- just fill her up for $10.
Thank you,

Your explanation is very plausable. I , however, from experience with Dodge, find Daimler/Chrysler and now, possibly but, hopefully not, Cerebus ( DAIMLER 20%) / Chrysler, To thnk that their appeal in the States is driven by those who lived and breathed by the mind set of the "Dukes of Hazard". Speculation for profitability at its' most dark! Consumerisim seems to be a far away concept with this corperation, no matter what the iteration! Lets not get into cliches, but, in real estate it has, and will and forever be, Location, Location , Location... In the automotive industry it may be, thank heaven, s-l-o-w-l-y becoming, Quality, Quality, Reliability. The Japanese and SOON the Chineese are understanding, and efficiently learning how to project this notion. If you read the most recent consumer reports of Damiler-Benz products regarding reliability your SHOES should shake from the POOR RESULTS!!!! Disregard, disregard, disregard its time to be socially correct, you anal sphincters that have been surfing the wave of content and then reaping ( possibly raping ) the social status seeking TWERPS of this life!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! to grow up, be socially responsible. to go GREEN! Not for profit as many have! But for the need of our existence chumpsky's!! CORPERATION,,,,, grow Up! Find an ad agency with a earth bound mind set. Measure and weigh how far from reality you may be!!!! are!!
 
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spp

New member
Hey spp, I had a little 'mishap' with a deer outside of Sanora Texas the day after I picked up BULBASOR brand new. When I got home he went to the Dodge dealer to have his nose fixed - (had deer guts in the grill and busted bumper parts) - so while we are waiting for parts from Germany to fix BULBASOR he sits in thier yard at the dealer for like TWO MONTHS. Sure enough - when I get BULBASOR back all shiney with a new nose - no AC . . . so I go back. So, the dealer recharged the AC and checked for leaks. No leaks. He said if it goes out again he will replace the entire plumbing system, but, it never has.

The AC unit seals are lubricated from the freon fluid / gas stuff that gets pumped around in all the plumbing when the compressor is running. If the compressor is not running - no lubricant is flowing thru the pipes and seals at connectors and valves can dry out (like the rubber gets HARD) and the 'stuff' leaks out. It takes the seals over a month to dry out. USUALLY, if they are re-hydrated before cracks form no damage is done. (Cracking the hard rubber usually takse about six months or more). Someday they will invent rubber that lasts forever without any chemical conditioner but so far - it don't exist.

Now, my VOLVO had the same problem - but the seals were so shrunken and dried out that when they tried to recharge it the gas was squirting out of the rotton seals faster than they could squirt the stuff back in so they gave up and gave me back my VOLVO with an apology and a recomendation to replace the AC (400 dollars). Well, while driving home I ran the compressor on the VOLVO and guess what? All those seals rehydrated before all the freon was expelled and the AC cold air kicked in after about a mile of driving. That was two years ago and the VOLVO is still blowing cold AC but I make it a point to run the AC every WEEK for at least five minutes.

Wanna know why your HONDA and ALL your American and Japanese cars don't loose coolant in the AC? Because in American and Japanese cars the AC compressor TURNS ON EVERY TIME YOU RUN THE WINDOW DEFROSTER and in some cars it comes one every time you use the fan for heat OR cold. Detroit did this on American cars to exersize the compressor and lubricate the seals.

Mecedes does not do any of that stuf - nor does BMW or VOLVO. I have a BMW 740IL and the compressor NEVER comes on unless I use the AC - same with my VOLVO - and BULBASOR too. Even my ESPAR AUX water heater went out because I let the glow plug dry up to a crisp by not running it for 2 years. (Dodge fixed that one for free too). It just seems to me that the people in Europe have a different attitude about cars in general. They seem to feel that if your not technical enough to know the workings of your automobile, and well trained in how to drive it and how to take care of it - then you should not drive one. They make you take driver tests over there that make you proove that you can run corners at high speed and know how to steer through skids and it's like going to the Bob Bobderaunt school of racing or somthing.

Anyway - the premier car of Germany - the BMW - has NO CUP HOLDERS. In germany they can't understand why in the worls a person would want cup holders. They take driving very more seriously than Americans. It does make maintenance a bit of a challenge.

What else are you having trouble with besides the AC?
just your inability to spell correctly!
 

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