Brittle Plastic Parts - is it just mine?

windsprinter

New member
Many of the plastic components - especially tabs - seem to be really brittle on my Sprinter. I've snapped almost all the thin parts I've touched, starting with the cover for the OBD bus when installing my scanguage. THen the plastic attachment points on the handbrake cover all broke off :thumbdown: Several other scenarios for little bits and pieces. I'm not usually particularly ham-handed, and seem to have had more than my share of breaking things in the Sprinter.

Latest was changing a headlight bulb. Read the manual, opened the hood, read the manual again, OK two little clips to undo, very little pressure needed to release them - and one of the danmm things broke! I kept the tab after I found that it was $68 for a new plastic cover (this is inside the engine compartment). I'm not confident it will stay waterproof without the part, so I'd like to fix it.

Two questions; 1) anyone else have this problem? ; 2) anyone know a suitable glue to try?

Thanks
Morley
 

Altered Sprinter

Happy Little Vegemite
SOME OF THE TABS HEADLIGHTS ARE ABS PLASTIC BUT RIGID
Other white tab-clear typetabs are just plain old plastic likely the UV rays are degrading them.
Use this product Loctite ultra Fast 401 will work on ABS
Let dry and cure for 24 hours before re-instaltion.
Richard
 

Hit The Road Jack

2006 Roadhouse Sprinter
Many of the plastic components - especially tabs - seem to be really brittle on my Sprinter. I've snapped almost all the thin parts I've touched, starting with the cover for the OBD bus when installing my scanguage. THen the plastic attachment points on the handbrake cover all broke off :thumbdown: Several other scenarios for little bits and pieces. I'm not usually particularly ham-handed, and seem to have had more than my share of breaking things in the Sprinter.

Latest was changing a headlight bulb. Read the manual, opened the hood, read the manual again, OK two little clips to undo, very little pressure needed to release them - and one of the danmm things broke! I kept the tab after I found that it was $68 for a new plastic cover (this is inside the engine compartment). I'm not confident it will stay waterproof without the part, so I'd like to fix it.

Two questions; 1) anyone else have this problem? ; 2) anyone know a suitable glue to try?
Thanks
Morley
Forget glue windsprinter, if any method to re-attach would be successful, it'd be plastic welding...:hmmm:

http://forum.doityourself.com/welding-metalworking/164855-plastic-welding.html
 

showkey

Well-known member
Many of the plastic components - especially tabs - seem to be really brittle on my Sprinter. I've snapped almost all the thin parts I've touched, starting with the cover for the OBD bus when installing my scanguage. THen the plastic attachment points on the handbrake cover all broke off :thumbdown: Several other scenarios for little bits and pieces. I'm not usually particularly ham-handed, and seem to have had more than my share of breaking things in the Sprinter.

Latest was changing a headlight bulb. Read the manual, opened the hood, read the manual again, OK two little clips to undo, very little pressure needed to release them - and one of the danmm things broke! I kept the tab after I found that it was $68 for a new plastic cover (this is inside the engine compartment). I'm not confident it will stay waterproof without the part, so I'd like to fix it.

Two questions; 1) anyone else have this problem? ; 2) anyone know a suitable glue to try?

Thanks
Morley
Tell us about your scan gauge experience....................does it meet your expectations accurate? MPG, Miles to empty, gallons to empty, trip computer etc etc

Thanks
 

kmessinger

Active member
Tell us about your scan gauge experience....................does it meet your expectations accurate? MPG, Miles to empty, gallons to empty, trip computer etc etc

Thanks
Do a search on your subject. It has been discussed many times.

This thread is about brittle plastic:D:

Regards,

Keith
 

windsprinter

New member
Tx Richard, Loctite ultra Fast 401 will be my next purchase - if I can get past the pesky Christmas shoppers :bounce:

Showkey, the short answer is yes, Scanguage is much better than the van's fuel guage for accuracy and the mileage and tank-to-empty are very close to accurate but vary a bit. The long answer is in other threads!
 

Altered Sprinter

Happy Little Vegemite
Tx Richard, Loctite ultra Fast 401 will be my next
purchase - if I can get past the pesky Christmas shoppers :bounce:
Hint;Clean both surfaces of debris,dust moisture such as grease from your finger tips.
Align the tab to visually to see how it fits in it's original profile.
Apply a beading(not to much) position,to exact fit,release after 10 seconds to allow oxidation of the surface, Then reposition to exact fit.
Wait ten to 60 seconds for the 401 to take , then let rest for up to 24 hours to cure.
Then run a small continuous bead on the outer surround of the base break, this acts as a full weld. let dry six hours it should re-fit into your original lock in primary base fitment.[Providing there is some allowance of slack in the fitment base].
The particular ABS plastic is ridged, and does not like flexing or being forced if too tight.
I FOUND THIS OUT AFTER BOTH MY SIDE MIRRORS WERE DAMAGED BY A METRO BUS :rant: TWO OF AT THE SAME TIME SIDE BY SIDE.
Whats the odds of that happening:bash:
refitting of the spot mirrors proved a real challenge as the fit was so tight it kept snapping off one tab,Mirrors :Guess what MB CHANGED THE DESIGN ,small cuts each side of the base allows the tabs to flex and yes fit and even be removed,
PS I have the welders both the German Lester and Lincon welding rod types, ultra small tabs are almost imposable to repair
Make sure you get Loctite 401 Ultra Fast instant adhesive {it's not instant on ABS plastics. Part number 40124=lDH265607
There may be a better two part high resins available but the cost exceeds replacement parts purchase.
Hope this is of help.




Showkey, the short answer is yes, Scanguage is much better than the van's fuel guage for accuracy and the mileage and tank-to-empty are very close to accurate but vary a bit. The long answer is in other threads!
Richard
 

Hit The Road Jack

2006 Roadhouse Sprinter
That's why I asked can't do it on small sections as to distortion and ABS grades are not mentioned:smilewink:
apart from the massive cost involved plus the required skill levels:professor:
401 still goes.:thumbup:
Richard
Fair enough Richard...:bow:

If your 401 proves to be effective for the repair, I'd be the first to buy it...:thumbup:

BTW, ya think Loctite stocks an adhesive capable of successfully repairing our failed Turbo Resonator seams...:hmmm:
 

Altered Sprinter

Happy Little Vegemite
Fair enough Richard...:bow:

If your 401 proves to be effective for the repair, I'd be the first to buy it...:thumbup:

BTW, ya think Loctite stocks an adhesive capable of successfully repairing our failed Turbo Resonator seams...:hmmm:
401 NO

Possible solution"clean outer flange dermal clean surface acid etch repair with loctite metal repair use a micrometer for OEM fit.
Shaft fit repair Loctite 609 operating temperature max 300 oF would stay put long enough for a permanent replacement
Part No 19377 IDH 965374
High strength
Viscosity Low:thinking:
Oil resistant
Gap fill up to 0.2mm (0.008")
It's worth a try.
Richard
 

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