Oil change

jmgasior

jmgasior
Decide finally to start doing my own oil changes can't break open oil pan plug, is this the conventional righty tightly,lefty loosey,thanks in advance
 

icarus

Well-known member
Decide finally to start doing my own oil changes can't break open oil pan plug, is this the conventional righty tightly,lefty loosey,thanks in advance
Yes,but consider a hand opperated vacuum pump...suck the oil out of the dipstick, better and more effectively than the drain plug...and you don't risk cross threading the drain plug.

Once you use one, you will never go back to pulling a drain plug on anythingA!

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=t&ref=pd_sl_vhir4ft4b_b

Icarus
 

smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
Yes,but consider a hand opperated vacuum pump...suck the oil out of the dipstick, better and more effectively than the drain plug...and you don't risk cross threading the drain plug.

Once you use one, you will never go back to pulling a drain plug on anything!
Why would sucking the oil out drain more effectively than a drain plug at the lowest point? If anything it would be the other way around (unless you placed the extractor pickup perfectly, and then it might be close to equal at best.) Plus it takes next to no time to remove the plug and drain the oil vs. setting up and using a hand-pumped or even vacuum oil extractor.

I own an extractor and it certainly has its applications but I don't think I've ever owned a vehicle with easier access to the drain plug than my Sprinter, I just can't see why I would bother messing with an extractor in this circumstance.
 

jmgasior

jmgasior
Rather than starting a exchange how people chg their oil,could someone answer the question,that's what I need right now,thanks again
 

smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
Rather than starting a exchange how people chg their oil,could someone answer the question,that's what I need right now,thanks again
Icarus answered you in the second post, the answer being 'yes.' Left to loosen.
 

220629

Well-known member
Rather than starting a exchange how people chg their oil,could someone answer the question,that's what I need right now,thanks again
It is standard righty tighty, lefty loosey.

If they have been sucking your oil out and not using the plug then the aluminum pan may have corroded some in the threads which will make it very tight. I recommend using a 6 point wrench or socket for removal. A 12 point may round the plug.

The oil plug needs to be snug enough, not tight. A new copper washer is recommended, but not absolutely necessary. I'm certain someone can provide the torque spec. I don't use a torque wrench on jobs like this.

I recommend removing the oil filter cap before the oil plug is removed or at least while still draining. It seems to help the empty process.

vic
 

icarus

Well-known member
In dozens of tests, on various vehicles I have found that the oil extractor removes more oil than simply draining...and I believe it removes more potential sludge as it has some minimal power behind it, as opposed to simple gravity.

Do a simple test...suck the oil out once with an vacuum pump, and then drop the plug and see how much oil is left. I have never seen more than a couple of drops. I believe that many cars (MB included) actually reccomend using a vacuum pump for better oil change.


I also don't like to crawl under things unless I have to. Using an oil extractor is so clean. You can do the entire oil change in a coat and tie and never have to get anything dirty.

Icarus
 

icarus

Well-known member
Thank you for the info,on that page which one do you use? Thanks
I have several...I think one is a mityvac. The only issue is it only holds ~6 qts so you have to stop and pour it into a larger container to recycle, and complete the drain.

Icarus
 

smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
In dozens of tests, on various vehicles I have found that the oil extractor removes more oil than simply draining...and I believe it removes more potential sludge as it has some minimal power behind it, as opposed to simple gravity.

Do a simple test...suck the oil out once with an vacuum pump, and then drop the plug and see how much oil is left. I have never seen more than a couple of drops. I believe that many cars (MB included) actually reccomend using a vacuum pump for better oil change.

I also don't like to crawl under things unless I have to. Using an oil extractor is so clean. You can do the entire oil change in a coat and tie and never have to get anything dirty.
With all due respect and I'm not trying to be snarky, but if you really believe those things then there's really not much point in debating.
 

smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
Yeah, it was a little unintentionally rude and I apologize for that (although the hilarity of someone correcting rudeness by calling them a schmuck at least provides a little comic relief.) All I really meant was that sometimes you can just tell when a debate is going to go six pages and change no one's mind so I thought we should spare everyone that. Sorry if it came off as curt.

.
 
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jmgasior

jmgasior
Thank you Icarus , on the last oil chg someone really went overboard,have a 2 ft pipe on socket and still resisting,debating a little heat on it,nothing is ever easy
 

smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
Thank you Icarus , on the last oil chg someone really went overboard,have a 2 ft pipe on socket and still resisting,debating a little heat on it,nothing is ever easy
Yeah, sometimes people really go overboard on oil bolts. Since it is a steel bolt in an aluminum casing a light application of heat should help.
 

johnshmit

Well-known member
That was a longest discussion I ever saw about unscrewing an oil bolt with some elements of High tech.
Also adding some environment considerations would make it even better, but it is good enough as is.
Thanks guys.
 

icarus

Well-known member
With all due respect and I'm not trying to be snarky, but if you really believe those things then there's really not much point in debating.
No offense taken, no snark felt. All I am relaying is my own personal experience. I got turned on to vacuum pumps/oil extractors watching my favorite high end euro car guy use one. I asked skeptically if it actually did the job. He said in his (much vaster) experience that it was way better. The first few changes, on a variety of vehicles I pulled the plug just to make sure, and when I never got any mo oil out I was convinced. As I said, my "belief" is simply base on my experince. The belief part is guessing that the suction from the vacuum actually removes more sludge. I have not done a blind study, nor have I pulled a pan after a number of changes using either method to actually confirm this.

To each thier own...IMHO either method is good enough.

Icarus
 

smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
OK I'll bite, because 3 pages isn't nearly enough to discuss removing an oil drain bolt. ;)

Most vehicles are designed so that the oil drain bolt is at the very lowest point in the pan (the OM642 and probably other engines even have a depression cast in the pan at the drain bolt to ensure that it is the lowest point for any liquid.) I don't see how it is logically possible that draining from any other point could be better. Maybe very nearly as good, if you manage to get the pickup placed at the lowest point of the pan, but certainly not better. Nor does it seem likely that the very small suction at the end of the tiny pickup tube would remove more contaminants than the rapid flow of warm oil out of the drain hole, unless you some how managed to vacuum the entire bottom surface of the pan which I don't think would be practical. Lastly, if you are able to change the oil and filter (multiple drains of the evacuation device and all) in a suit and tie using any method then I will concede that you are a lot more fastidious than me.

I could see using an evacuation device on certain vehicles that have very little ground clearance or require removal of underbody covers to access the drain plug as a time saving measure (that's why mechanics like it), but on the Sprinter it just seems like a lot of unnecessary effort.

YMMV and I'm not trying to tell anyone what to do, I agree either method is probably adequate. I can't for the life of me see why it would be preferred in this particular case though.

.
 
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Old Crows

Calypso 2014 View Profile
IME, having used my Pella 6000 for about 10 years on 3 different vehicles and my outdoor equipment, I believe it does do a better job getting more oil out of the oil pan. And it's easier than low crawling under the dang things.... Still have to fetch the filter off on the Camry but that's just a long reach into the guts underneath.

I say it removes more oil based on the following observations: using the "drain and fill" method on the Camry and very carefully adding the exact refill quantity, the dip stick always reads 1/4 inch over full mark even after several days of use. If I suction the oil out it is always right on the mark..dead on, always. The resevoir always holds a wee bit more than I'd expect to see.... Say 5L and a scoche more vs 5. Also, there are no dark streaks on the dip stick from the old oil.

It's always good to get the oil hot so it will flow up the straw easily. And, you may have to fish the straw around a bit to find those hidden spots that trap oil.
 

smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
I believe it does do a better job getting more oil out of the oil pan.
I know many believe it, but... how? Meaning, how is it possible for an extraction device to get more out of the engine than a drain plug at the lowest point?
 

avanti

2022 Ford Transit 3500
I know many believe it, but... how? Meaning, how is it possible for an extraction device to get more out of the engine than a drain plug at the lowest point?
Although I, too, am mostly convinced that the suction method is better, the above is a fair question. The only answer I can think of is that your assumption that the drain is actually at the low point may not generally be true. :idunno:
 

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