Espar issues

DieselBob

New member
I have 2007 Roadtrek based on an 2006 sprinter. I just when through a bad experience getting the Espar "Boost heater" (only useable with the engine running)replaced. The DC parts system showed my vehicle had an AUX heater (independent heater to heat engine and cabin without engine running). The boost heater has one main connector plug. The Aux heater has two connectors, a second one for a water pump. It took a call to the Chrysler hot line to get the issue resolved. I decided any future problems I would handle myself since apparently the dealerships have no training or parts to repair a heater, they just replace them. I started looking into the tools required to access the heater controller (ECU) fault codes. The manuals provided a number of options including the seven day timer (which has a diagnostic ability). On contacting Espar (North America) www.espar.com about test equipment, I was told Espar equipment delivered with Sprinters in North America can only be tested with Chrysler DC DRBIII or Star dianostics. Doubting this I contacted Eberspächer Germany and was informed the heater can be tested with their equipment but not through the vehicles OBD2 port due to other controllers present. As a point of reference I was wondering if anyone with a seven day timer installed has accessed fault codes or has tried it. Instructions can be found here http://www.espar.com/documents/7day_norelay.pdf
 

mean_in_green

>2,000,000m in MB vans
I've got one - it seems a pretty common controller - although haven't needed to use the diagnostic features as it has been totally reliable.
 

DieselBob

New member
I've got one - it seems a pretty common controller - although haven't needed to use the diagnostic features as it has been totally reliable.
MIG, Glad your experience has been good. However I'm trying confirm or disprove Espar N/A claim that Sprinters built for North America equipped with Espar heaters can only be tested with Chrysler DC DRBIII or Star diagnostics equipment. If the seven day timer can access the heaters controller it indicates Espar N/A is wrong and lower cost tools can be used to maintain the heater. PS: have you tried using your timer to read fault codes? Even through no faults are stored, at least you'll know it works if needed.
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
I have the Aux Timer with the Aux heater (which is the same Espar, except it runs without the engine running as you had mentioned and worth repeating).

I'll have to try the "access the fault codes" function. My heater never had a problem so there was no reason for me to look into it.
 

bc339

New member
Espar has several good troubleshooting guides on their download page. Here's the link.
http://www.espar.com/html/service/download/technical.html
Mine is also experiencing a start problem with the timer control, but will start with the Aux control. Espar lists two documents for timers, one with a relay and one without. Anyone know whats installed on T1N's? In the document for the timer without relay, there is a procedure to clear the codes on page 3. I've tried it and it will reset and clear, but still won't start. I'll try checking the wiring, glow plug and sensor next. I remember an issue in the past with corrosion at the connector, too.
Bruce
 

DieselBob

New member
Espar has several good troubleshooting guides on their download page. Here's the link.
http://www.espar.com/html/service/download/technical.html
Mine is also experiencing a start problem with the timer control, but will start with the Aux control. Espar lists two documents for timers, one with a relay and one without. Anyone know whats installed on T1N's? In the document for the timer without relay, there is a procedure to clear the codes on page 3. I've tried it and it will reset and clear, but still won't start. I'll try checking the wiring, glow plug and sensor next. I remember an issue in the past with corrosion at the connector, too.
Bruce

Research I have done found three Espar units installed in NAFTA T1N Sprinters

25 2162 05 00 00 MB number A0048302661 Dodge 5124692AA this is a heater with one connector plug used as a boost heater only. What years it applies to was unable to determine.

25-2343 05 00 00 MB number MB number unknown Dodge 5135680AA This heater also has one connector Plug used as a boost heater. What years it applies to unable to determine.

25 2091 05 00 00 MB number A0038308061 Dodge 5124687AA This heater has two connector plugs. A smaller two wire plug controls either a separate Espar water pump or is wired to control the MB installed pump differently then the boost heater system.

All of the delivered Espar heaters are marked with Espar and MB part numbers only. The Dodge number only exist on their data dase, which I found is totally inaccurate.

I was unable to find any straight forward differences between these units in downloaded manuals. All data (online manuals) has little difference (apparently based on existing Dodge DC manuals). Electrical and plumbing only shows one system’

I’m encouraged that you were able to clear codes with your timer, which disproves Espar North America statement that NAFTA Sprinter Espar heaters can only be diagnosed with DC DRBIII or Star. On contacting Germany Eberspächer (parent company) Confirmed tools are available to check the heaters ECU without DC’s equipment. Out of warranty these units can cost approximately $1400 to replace.

Apparently most have had good luck with these units. I, at 20K didn’t, and don’t want to be at the mercy of dealerships that don’t have the information or training to service them.

Your problem sounds really strange. it works “Aux” but not with the timer? If I had some good wiring diagrams it could be trouble shoot.

Anyone with more information then I was able find on this subject, please share!
 

bc339

New member
Did some more troubleshooting last evening. Unit would start with the Aux switch, run for several minutes, then shut itself off. I waited about half an hour and tried the timer, which worked this time with the same results. Read the Espar T/S guide, best guess is to check the atomizer screen, flame sensor and glow plug. Pictures to follow after next look.
Several times in the past when starting with the timer, nothing will happen when the button is pushed. The fan would not run, fuel pump wouldn't thump, heater didn't spew smoke. A relay would click, then nothing. I reset the lockout funtion on the timer and it hasn't happened again - yet.
Bruce
 

DieselBob

New member
Did some more troubleshooting last evening. Unit would start with the Aux switch, run for several minutes, then shut itself off. I waited about half an hour and tried the timer, which worked this time with the same results. Read the Espar T/S guide, best guess is to check the atomizer screen, flame sensor and glow plug. Pictures to follow after next look.
Several times in the past when starting with the timer, nothing will happen when the button is pushed. The fan would not run, fuel pump wouldn't thump, heater didn't spew smoke. A relay would click, then nothing. I reset the lockout funtion on the timer and it hasn't happened again - yet.
Bruce
Bruce,

Are you getting a fault code? Reference: http://www.espar.com/documents/diagnosticinstruction.pdf
 

DieselBob

New member
No, it displays RF:00, in the Espar codes means normal operation. Not!
Did you use the arrow keys to check stored faults? The unit apparently can store five faults. When you checked for faults was it after or
before unlocked?
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
My heater is working without any problems.

With that said, I tried accessing the fault codes screen and I get nothing. I turn on the Aux heater by pressing the squiggly marks. I press the squiggly marked button again, hold it, and within 2 seconds press the P button. I get nothing.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong. Come to think of it, maybe I'm suppose to release the P while holding the squiggly button. :hmmm:
 

ZED

Sprinter Newbie
Did some more troubleshooting last evening. Unit would start with the Aux switch, run for several minutes, then shut itself off. I waited about half an hour and tried the timer, which worked this time with the same results. Read the Espar T/S guide, best guess is to check the atomizer screen, flame sensor and glow plug. Pictures to follow after next look.
Several times in the past when starting with the timer, nothing will happen when the button is pushed. The fan would not run, fuel pump wouldn't thump, heater didn't spew smoke. A relay would click, then nothing. I reset the lockout funtion on the timer and it hasn't happened again - yet.
Bruce
Oh, crappy. That sounds like how the 30-40 year old units work. I was really hoping they'd improved in reliability.
They used to be a really simple device of a fuel pump with an orifice and a glow/ignitor plug in a combustion chamber. All you needed was fuel, fan, and power (with a fire extinguisher handy). Then in the 70s the started adding a bunch of safety devices for overheat, etc. That made them often run for a bit then click off. Resetting a switch would make all happy again ... until next time ... They always seemed to cut out when it was really cold and windy outside.

Good luck. Following anxiously.
:popcorn:
 

bc339

New member
Yes, I've tried scrolling left or right while it's unlocked without any other displayed codes. I think I need the spinner from a twister game to make it work. Last night it was doing the same thing, it goes through the start sequence, fires up, then shuts down after a few minutes, attempts another start, then repeats. Time permitting, I'll be working on it this weekend.
Bruce
 

bc339

New member
This past Saturday, I decided to pull out the Espar heater. It's not difficult to do. The entire job from start to finish took four hours for basically not knowing what to do. I've been studying the manuals from the Espar site on the installation, which tells where it's installed, but not how to remove it. I have about 20 images of the process. If anyone would like, I'll be happy to post them. When I removed the access cover for the jacket, I discovered that the sensor wiring was disintegrating, leaving the wires exposed. There are two sensors for overheat and temperature, and the heat from operating the unit caused the insulation to break down. I coated the wires with high temp RTV until I can get replacements. I also cleaned the glow plug, flame sensor, cumbustion chamber and atomizer screen with carb cleaner and let it all dry out. I was able to get a lot of carbon soot out of the combustion area. When I replace the sensors, I will replace the gaskets also. There are two gaskets - one between the fan unit to combustion section and one between the heat exchanger and cumbustion chamber. If you carefully remove the sections, you will avoid damaging the gaskets. Re-assembled everything, installed and tightened all hoses and fasteners, added 12 oz of antifreeze and started the engine to circulate the coolant. Started the heater and it fired up. It runs for about 7 minutes, then it shut down when the engine reached 180 degrees F. Next step will be to order the replacement sensors.
If you'd like the whole series of images, let me know. Hope this is of help.
Bruce

I also wrote a message to Espar technical service section for help. The reply was very quick and helpful. Here's the reply from the Espar technical servive:

The heater you have is a genuine Sprinter heater, we do not have access to them for aftermarket or for parts supply. Electrical connections on it should be similar to ours and unlike pre-heater it has two wires which need to be powered in order to start the heater (pre-heater has one (yellow) wire to control it). Maybe this is the reason why you get a strange result when diagnose it with 7 day timer - try to diagnose with the main heater's switch ON.

Sensors and gaskets on the heater should be same as ours. I agree, this should be OK to insulate the wires with a non conducting high temp.
sealant. We have some manuals for Hydronic 4-5 heaters at www.espar.com/help and although they are not for your model, there must be enough information for repair (you may like our North American manual which has "ESPAR" in the name of file. However, there is no torque values in the manual

Regards,

Alexey Konyshev,

Technical Services Supervisor
Espar Products Inc.,
Email: akonyshev@espar.com
Voice: 1-800-387-4800 ext. 2280
 

bc339

New member
Here you are for you viewing enjoyment. First step - headlight. Loosen grill, remove lower trim cover and four fasteners around headlight assembly. Disconnect plug by squeezing release at top of plug.
With the headlight out, the heater is very easy to access. Disconnect the wiring, loosen the fuel line, pull it off and out of the way, then the coolant lines. You lose about 8 oz.. Remove the two fasteners on the mount - one front, one in back. Tip it up to remove the fasteners on the ECU, pull it back about an inch or 2 cm, carefully remove harness connector inside ECU and set the ECU aside. Slide the cover off and down - the air intake is attached and the cover can stay inside the compartment. With the cover slid away, pull out the heater unit, disassemble and inspect for damage.
Next set: disassembled.
 

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bc339

New member
There aren't too many fasteners, so it's easy to take apart. While it was out, I cleaned the compartment. It was pretty nasty - old oil and diesel with pine needles. Be careful with the disassembly - there are two gaskets, one on the fan/glow plug side and one under the combustion chamber. I took it all apart, cleaned it and reassembled it. I coated the two sensors with RTV for a temp fix. Re-installed and ops checked. Ops check OK for now til I replace those sensors.
Bruce
 

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bc339

New member
Here's the heater disassembled. First image is of the fan motor with glow plug, flame sensor and two heat sensors (red and blue wires that are breaking down). It was fairly clean. The jacket holds the combustor and heat exchanger. The combustion section slides out and is easy to clean. The next one is the jacket with the cover plate in the back. I found the cover plate warped from the heat, too. The next is the ECU. I suggest writing down the information on the data plate - model number and s/n may come in handy. Next is the combustion tube. The glow plug mates into the hole on the right side- it was fouled with soot. This is where the atomizer screen is. Cleaned up with carb cleaner - I used two cans. Last image is the compartment before cleaning. The cover on the left is where the intake tube is attached. In the middle is the exhaust duct. The heater unit slides into the exhaust opening and is a friction fit.
I was able to wash the sheet and get it back on the bed before my wife noticed.....
Bruce
 

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galvinize

Active member
While ESPAR provides good schematic drawings, they do not address how to get at the heater, and how to use the 7 day timer as a diagnostic tool (which remains a mystery). Thank you for posting the photos!
 

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