NCV3 Cheap Tricks - Y'all need 'em too!

mean_in_green said:

I've been chasing down a rattle on the outside of my van for months, it's been driving me nuts. A chain like rattle apparently coming from the rear axle area. I'd read reports on the forum of axle U-bolt nuts being loose but mine are correctly torqued and solid.

It took some finding but I discovered that where the handbrake cables (one each side) enter the rear wheel hub not enough sprung tension existed with the handbrake off. The cable ends hook onto a tab in each hub and the effect of the lack of tension meant that the tabs were rattling around all over the place. I saw where they'd part polished themselves through repeated contact with the surrounding castings. If you're curious to look they're located underneath a protective weather cover on the underside of the axle.

Further investigation revealed that the handbrake compensator (where the cable splits from one to two) had begun to seize and this was the cause of the problem. Judicious application of Rost-Off penetration fluid and some adjustment restored the correct tension to the cables and their locating tabs - rattle gone.

Why had it happened? The handbrake had good functionality, so I didn't immediately twig that this could be a potential cause. Plus it's an auto, so I don't always use the handbrake (I know I know...). Also, I don't habitually yank the handbrake right up to apply it so ironically it seems as though careful use of a component may actually have inadvertently caused it to partially seize.

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lindenengineering said:

I would just like to add.

It is fairly easy to access this model with a Snap On scanner.
Its basically the same as the TIN model with the 5 banger diesel.

However you have to follow the prompts to the letter--This 2008 Sprinter if found in the Domestic models under Chrysler and the end of the menu on page two.
Contrary to the older "TINEYS" which use the Euro cable and key S16 you use the domestic OBD2 diagnostic connect with personality key #25.

Many folk make the mistake of trying to access the truck through the Mercedes euro import programs simply because the owner wants to "pose" with MB badges all over the rig when its really a Dodge or Freightliner !
(Sorry for those who might have their feathers ruffled 'cos its still a Dodge in the shop mechie's world!)

A couple of my guys (especially the new guys --FNG's) occasionally have been thrown a curve ball on this when using the Merb based scanners we have.
Snappy will access most of the programs, but not the security modules.

Out of interest have you got an aftermarket radio in the rig?
Often audio installers use the Mil feeds as connector to get a positive or in fact power up the negative for audio feeds. In some cases it blows out the expensive scanner in the hands of the mechanic you send out to read codes etc. Or the polarity protection on some scanners won't allow access, Also a fuse check is also in order.
For that reason I use a cheapo Launch CReader scanner for basic OBD communication to read things before bringing the big expensive guns to bear.
Basically the canary in the Cole Mine theory.
Dennis

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lindenengineering said:

Vic
For info the Snappy will access all 2007 to 2009 NCV3's but some of the systems were poorly covered.
No coverage for MB Sprinters but with the MB general car program you could fanny about and get some info.

The latest and greatest Snap On program will give greater access to Dodge programs for existing years (and it wasn't that bad to satrt with !) and most MB Sprinter programs but with a few exceptions like Security.

For the money its not bad at $1100 for the update onto an existing tool.

Still for the money @ $10,500 the Autologic is very easy to use and will access everything and of course you enjoy product support by live bodies who can give you the methodology to interpret & re-program the modules. The annual updates are $1500 .

As the pretty one in the back office (Missus) often says for $10,500 it had better have a backside wipe feature!
Cheers and Happy New Year.
Dennis

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chrono said:

Yeehaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa The <Exhaust Pressure Sensor> sensor did the trick code finally gone van runs like a champ OK here are the specs of the new sensor. Terminal 2 and 1 50k ohm, 2 and 3 50k ohm, and 1 and 3 2k ohm Thats for the exhaust pressure sensor if anyone needs to check it in the future. The old sensor hit 2 mega ohms on terminals 2 and 3. I should have known thats too high

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talkinghorse43 said:

Having just reported on my recent black death experience, I was surprised to see that the spec for injector hold down tensioning had apparently been changed. So, I sent an Email to the good Doktor asking for his take on it.

My question to him:

"... just saw yesterday that the procedure (jdcaples posted in sprinter source) for the subject on the v6 shows a final 180 deg turn rather than the 90 deg turn spec'd in the '03 service manual for the i5. I know that when you replaced 2 injectors for me several years ago you used 90 deg. Since the screw and copper washer are the same for both, I'm wondering why the change in spec. Do you now use this new spec? ..."

His reply:

"... I have had several 5 cyl owners call and report they had broken new bolts when reinstalling an injector. When I quizzed them on torque instructions they reported 62 inch/lbs and 90 degrees. When I asked for a definition of 90 degrees they both reported "1/2 turn".

When doing early testing of new bolts in a bench test head, I produced failure at approx. that same torque. I suspect the 6cyl info is a misprint. ..."

IMHO, this info makes it highly likely that the spec in the attachment above IS a misprint

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The Starter Relay is unique to the application. Even though it looks similar in case style to other relays there are no other [T1N] positions that can be swapped out.

Starter Relay 2001 - 2007 Dodge Sprinter (verify application before ordering)
#5101505AB

Some other possible part numbers
(verify application before ordering)
05101505AB ; 05101505AA; 05103830AA; 05129614AA; 05129616AA; 05138902AA

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found this on the MBclub forum :-


Hi there. I ended up speaking to Enza Mercedes. They turned out to have had one with just the same problem, an Ice cream van.

Turns out to be relays in the dashboard (nearside footwell) numbers 8 and 9 that they replaced. THey showed me them, the contacts had green corrosion on them and were not contacting properly. This happens when they are not used regularly, like an Ice cream van or Motorhome.
We changed relay no 3,5,6,7, & 8.

Numbers are all marked beside the relays [position].
No1 grey relay for the horn Part No: A0045452905
No2 Yellow " for the wiper Part No: A0025421419
No3 grey " for the fuel pump Part No: A0045452905 or A0035420219
this was superceded to Part No: A0035420219
No4 Yellow " for wiper on/off relay Part No: A0025421419
No5 Yellow " Starter Part No: A0025421419
this was superceded to Part No: A0025427419
No6 Grey " ESP? Part No: A0025422619
No7 Grey " Engine control Part No: A0025422619
No8 Grey " T15R? Part No: A0025422619

As you can see some of the part nos are the same, so therefore if you have a problem you can swap some of the relays around to check them. (We swapped 6 & 7, engine started but ESP light came on).

For the cost of the 5 relays, it was well worth it for us to change them and now have spares.
All the relays have the part nos stamped on them, makes life easy.
Derek

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eBay said:

Fresh Remanufactured 180 Amp Alternator, Marked Valeo, a supplier to Mercedes.

Part Number R4801250AD Offered by MOPAR replacement parts!

This includes the special 7-groove pulley which is an extra charge for some units.

This fits the Mercedes 3.0 Liter V-6 diesel engine, as I believe was used in these vehicles:
2007 - 2009 Grand Cherokee
2005 - 2009 E-Class Mercedes-Benz
2005 + C-Class Mercedes-Benz
2008 + R-Class Mercedes Benz
2007 + Dodge, Freightliner, and Mercedes Sprinter vans.

NOTE: The eBay system picked the compatibility chart included with this listing.
There may be additional fitments not shown. It appears as though most, if not all,
of the Mercedes-based 3.0L V-6 diesel engines with the 180 Amp alternator
can use this unit.

I CANNOT guarantee that it will fit your vehicle; check to make sure, and
compare yours with the photos of this one! I am unaware of fitment to
any engine other than the 3.0 Liter Diesel V-6 applications!

Please do not ask it it will fit your gas engine in any brand of car, the answer is NO.


This type of alternator is available at the local auto parts stores, but at a much higher price, and
a Core Charge is often levied until the old one is returned. No Core Charge Here!
This part number is available through the largest online broad spectrum coverage merchandiser, for over $385!

Most alternator installations are relatively easy to accomplish. Save money on the unit, and
even more on the labor charge by replacing it yourself!


I only have ONE.
I CANNOT offer a Warranty!
There are no accessories. What is shown in the photographs is what you see is what you get!

IMPORTANT: It is not possible to modify or upgrade the 2007 and later NCV3 models to
a higher output alternator. The voltage regulator in those units is directly connected with
a Local Interface Network or LIN code in the engine control unit. Do not attempt to retrofit
a 220 Amp unit to a 180 Amp unit, or a 180 to a 220.

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comet429 said:

Well, I went and got my part this morning from Christopher Trucks(Freightliner) and it was the right part. It cost me $8.32 total.........that sure beats Dodge trying to sell me the hole hose for $120.00

Well, here is the part# for others that might run into this: PART#017-997-04-45

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Studio718 said:

Hey Jon, once I figured out how to release them [the clips on the return fittings] (you press down hard on the round outer part that spin around until you hear a click and then pull the whole thing up ), changing the line was a breeze until I got to the driver side.

As you saw in my pictures from the other thread the line runs under the sensor that's connected to the end of the fuel rail.

I now also know how to install both [injector] covers back on without touching the fuel lines.
Frustrating at first but after you figure it out it becomes 1-2-3.

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larpy said:

I broke the passenger side back clip today after reassembling the engine cover after cleaning out my EGR cooler and EGR valve. Do I have to buy the whole fuel return tube or can I just buy the plastic piece that clips onto the top of the injector?

Part #2 on diagram http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=4509056&ukey_assembly=646171

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Aqua Puttana said:

Comments have been made that DEF searches don't reveal much. I have found that when using key words of only 3 letters (eg. acronyms) the advanced search seems to work best.

Anyway. This sticky should help those looking for DEF information.

First my opinion as a parrot of the forum.

Any good quality DEF is fine. Diesel Exhaust Fluid is a standard commodity chemical.

Be very careful not to spill the DEF when filling. DEF is extremely corrosive and loves to eat copper. If unable to neatly clean an area, flush any spills with copious amounts of water. Not all DEF jugs are created equal when it comes to the spout/fill design. Some members like the convenience of the bulk dispensed product found at truck plazas.

Based upon experience, some members recommend not waiting for the DEF level warning light. Apparently the DEF monitor system is finicky and low level can trigger misadventures. DEF does have a shelf life. Those same members feel that it is better to keep topped up than to worry about the fluid aging.
...

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Aqua Puttana said:

DEF Information

There's been some discussion about DEF diesel exhaust fluid used in the newer NAFTA NCV3 Sprinters. As it is new to many owners I figured I'd post something here to make finding the DEF discussions a bit easier.

This outlines my thoughts from a Yahoo Sprintervan thread FWIW. Oh, and to keep this a Cheap Trick. The general consensus is that all DEF from quality suppliers is created equal. The DEF juice is generally cheaper in places other than dealerships. vic

****
Being a T1N owner I don't have a dog in this fight. I do have a question though. Why would anyone be concerned with keeping the tank completely full? By accounts here a full tank gives anywhere from 7500 - 10,000 mile range. That's a heck of alot of time for most owners. Am I correct that DEF has a shelf life? Why not just add a 2 1/2 gallon jug when the light comes on? The advantages are that you don't need to worry about leftover juice, the juice stays fresher and you won't overfill the tank on topoff. 2 1/2 gallons should yield 3,500 - 5,000 mile range. That's many months of travel in my situation.

I'm bettin' the tank was sized by MB with the intent of selling DEF to owners at the 10,000 mile oil change. I guess the people obsessed with keeping their motor oil to the top won't agree here. Does my idea make sense to others? vic
***
Sailquik reply (a concerned fastidious and informed NCV3 owner).


Hi AP,
In the future, I may just put in 2.5 gal.
Since this was the first time I'd seen the message...(as a
former T1N owner/driver I find the "mesages" feature a bit
annoying as I have to get out the Operator's manual and figure
out what the message really means)... I just reacted (because
others have suggested that if you let the DEF get too low, the
Sprinter will tell you how many starts you have left. If you
use up all the "starts" the computer will allow, find a tow truck
or rollback as you are going to the dealer for a reset and refill
of the DEF tank!)
So, I stopped at the first auto parts store I found (NAPA in Nags Head, NC) and
they had gallon jugs of the Peak BlueDEF fluid.
I bought one and a funnel and poured the DEF in the DEF fill tube
at the LH side (facing the back of the van) of the radiator.
I then read further in the manual and it says you have to add a min.
of 2 gallons to get the DEF system to reset itself if you have seen the message.
It took exactly 2 start cycles for the DEF to reset.
I'm not sure if 2.5 gallons will fit if you "react" immediately to the
ominous "DEF" message.
I too would have thought that MB would have put in a DEF tank that would get you
past the 10K service interval.
I guess I could have kept on driving (there is supposed to be 800-1200 miles
reserve DEF in the tank) but I don't like "messages" and
reminders in my mileage readout all the time + every time I restart the van.
Enough said!
Roger
****
My reply.
Roger,
Thanks for the reply. Your information should help other owners new to DEF. I
have not searched info on DEF because it really doesn't affect me. I didn't
remember the "reset quantity", but I now saw that you did put that into an
earlier post.

As to the 2.5 gallons fitting in when the light goes on... I wouldn't think
that's a problem. Per info here and Sprinter-source:
Tank sized for 10,000 miles.
The light comes on with 1000 miles, after that the 9 starts warning kicks in.
(per KMDE).

So figure 2000 miles conservatively at first light on or 20%.
Using miles again, 2.5 gallons should be 5,000 miles or 50%.

That leaves 30% before overfill worries. I think adding the 2.5 gallons should
be fine when the light comes on. If an owner identifies where 2.5 gallons can be
purchased I see no reason to even worry about having it on hand for most
situations. When the light comes on you have at least 1000 miles to get some
juice. As I said though, I don't have a dog in this race so FWIW. vic

Edit: Has anyone seen the actual published Sprinter DEF tank capacity?

****


A recent Sprinter-source thread.

DEF Question for 2010 Blue Efficiency Sprinter Owners
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14929


Yahoo Sprintervan thread


2010 MB/Freightliner Sprinters only....@ how many miles does your DE
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/sprintervan/message/59030

20130625 edit

A video showing how to use the steering wheel button to check for messages.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8t_BRiuT_no&list=UUvyb-8Hc9ScG0X-Rp2Z0KtQ&index=18

Add DEF videoes

OEM Container with spout.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_W9NM2VZOs

General description.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ls8_J6nLt8I

More detail using a funnel.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igEsIdUiKcQ

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showkey said:

While you're checking hoses........the one under the air filter that goes to the front of the turbo is well known for coming loose. It has an orange gasket seal at the turbo that is known to split as well. It is removed during fuel filter changes.

That is just a guess and a quick check DIY thing...........as SQ said scan is the only way to find the problem.

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fink1741 said:

Congratulations to me but of course you guys led me to the source. Thank you!

The culprit is the orange rubber gasket/seal that fits over the aluminum pipe on the Turbo behind the fuel filter. It was cracked and so I trimmed it and leaving 1 inch of good solid rubber. It fit over the aluminum pipe than installed plastic pipe tightly.

Now I have all my acceleration back to 100% I will order a new one next week.

Thanks for being there and emailing me back on this beautiful 4th of July weekend.

Sincerely, Michael

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Aqua Puttana said:

Orange Turbo Seal

You may be told that the seal for the NCV3 turbo only comes complete with the hose. That is not true.



There is more detail here from JDCaples that includes pictures of the failure.

Orange, Round Seal at OM642.993 Turbo Inlet Orifice
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17359

vic

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