Adding A Towing Hitch $855.00
- Thread starter PLUMMER
- Start date
InnoVAN
New member
That's nuts. You can get a hitch for $100 less, bring it to Pep Boys and have them install it. There's the price of your hitch. The Mopar wiring harness is supposed to have clip on wiring, so you don't even need a technician it sounds like.
The price of a wiring harness is a bit ridiculous though... what is this thing made of? Strontium?
The price of a wiring harness is a bit ridiculous though... what is this thing made of? Strontium?
I can give you first hand knowledge on this one. A reputable trailer hitch installer quoted em $550.00 for the hitch, controller and install. He was going to “hard wire it in”
I didn’t trust the hard wire thing so I ordered all the parts on my own, Hitch was $ 174.95 VALLEY HITCH, from www.etrailer.com, I got the one for a step bumper.
Then I got the brake from www.pplmotorhomes.com, $127.99, the digital
TEKONSHA P3 BRAKE CONTROLLER , then I got the wiring kit fSprinter (2007) MB Round 7-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness $139.00, from www.sprinteraccessories.com.
Then I took the whole bundle to the dealer to install, they quoted me $550.00 to install everything WHAT, I was quoted $550.00 including including the brake and hitch.
Knowing I was getting ripped off, I said yes because I wanted the security factor of “the dealer” being the only one touching the vehicle ( this has saved me in the past many thousands of dollars). If someone other than the dealer installed it and the horn started blowing when I turned on the wipers, or the windows came down when I put the lights on, I would be at their mercy, and it would cost me a lot more money and perhaps a voided warranty.
Anyway, when I went to pick it up a few hours ago, they said it was harder than we thought, it’s now $750.00 for labor. EXCUSE ME!!!!!
Sorry, you quoted me $550.00, which I knew was a rip off, and now you want $750.00. You have two choices, pull everything out and charge me nothing or charge me what we agreed on. He quickly refunded $150.00.
I didn’t trust the hard wire thing so I ordered all the parts on my own, Hitch was $ 174.95 VALLEY HITCH, from www.etrailer.com, I got the one for a step bumper.
Then I got the brake from www.pplmotorhomes.com, $127.99, the digital
TEKONSHA P3 BRAKE CONTROLLER , then I got the wiring kit fSprinter (2007) MB Round 7-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness $139.00, from www.sprinteraccessories.com.
Then I took the whole bundle to the dealer to install, they quoted me $550.00 to install everything WHAT, I was quoted $550.00 including including the brake and hitch.
Knowing I was getting ripped off, I said yes because I wanted the security factor of “the dealer” being the only one touching the vehicle ( this has saved me in the past many thousands of dollars). If someone other than the dealer installed it and the horn started blowing when I turned on the wipers, or the windows came down when I put the lights on, I would be at their mercy, and it would cost me a lot more money and perhaps a voided warranty.
Anyway, when I went to pick it up a few hours ago, they said it was harder than we thought, it’s now $750.00 for labor. EXCUSE ME!!!!!
Sorry, you quoted me $550.00, which I knew was a rip off, and now you want $750.00. You have two choices, pull everything out and charge me nothing or charge me what we agreed on. He quickly refunded $150.00.
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Is it a drawtite reciever ? And is it very low too the ground ? I do plenty of wrenching my self on our race machines. So have you looked at it to be able to tell if its possible to do youself. Time of course not being a problem for me. I also like the pride of accomplishing challenging projects. But within the realm of reality. This is the 2nd story I have heard of in the 750 + range.
I also had a similar dealer expirience with a chevy silverado in 99'. No one had the oil filters yet for the new motors and I ended up getting one direct from GM and changing oil myself. Well there was a problem after the 3rd oil change ( 1st one the dealer did because they finally had parts) and a few hours later and stranded up north , I find they left the oil plug out. Arguing with me they wanted all my reciepts proving I did the work and not a quick lube store. I for the life of me couldn't figure out why Les Stanford chevy thought it was my problem when they were the last to touch the vehicle ????????? Anyways after many threatening phone calls to them and many professional phone calls to the local TV,BBB, dealership customer complaint service, and finally a phone call with corporate . They were forced to cover the repairs, since I was able to prove "I" did the work. However it wouldn't have been, had there been a quick lube involved. Some kind of rights as an owner to be able to do maintinace and repairs yourself and still be covered under a consumer protection law. Just like some state that allow you to do performance and cosmetic upgrades and still be covered under manufacturers warranty. Obviously simple performance items, i.e. exhaust,airbox,tires,alarms,remote starters.......
I also had a similar dealer expirience with a chevy silverado in 99'. No one had the oil filters yet for the new motors and I ended up getting one direct from GM and changing oil myself. Well there was a problem after the 3rd oil change ( 1st one the dealer did because they finally had parts) and a few hours later and stranded up north , I find they left the oil plug out. Arguing with me they wanted all my reciepts proving I did the work and not a quick lube store. I for the life of me couldn't figure out why Les Stanford chevy thought it was my problem when they were the last to touch the vehicle ????????? Anyways after many threatening phone calls to them and many professional phone calls to the local TV,BBB, dealership customer complaint service, and finally a phone call with corporate . They were forced to cover the repairs, since I was able to prove "I" did the work. However it wouldn't have been, had there been a quick lube involved. Some kind of rights as an owner to be able to do maintinace and repairs yourself and still be covered under a consumer protection law. Just like some state that allow you to do performance and cosmetic upgrades and still be covered under manufacturers warranty. Obviously simple performance items, i.e. exhaust,airbox,tires,alarms,remote starters.......
InnoVAN
New member
Everyone should have a local mechanic who you give your small projects to. If he's trustworthy on those, he'll earn your big projects. This is a good tester project for em. Tell em a semi reasonable price that the dealer charged, and ask if he can do it for less. He'll do it right. It's an easy job.
Dealers need to learn that trust is gained through fair treatment. Glad I am out of warranty, not that I ever brought my truck to a dealer unless I knew what was wrong and knew what it entailed to fix it. It's always good to know more than the service manager and his lackeys.
I had the bolts on my torque converter come loose on my Xterra. I rattled into the dealership and they insisted they knew what it was. I asked them if they'd do a free diagnosis, so I could figure out if I wanted to move forward, they said sure. Well, they came back with it needing a new transmission. That's when I sprung the problem on them. They told me I was wrong, and that they've never heard of that happening. They unbolted a window to the transmission and sure enough, they found what I already knew. Only one bolt was remotely snug, most were loose, and one was missing! Well, long story short, I went for the cheap repair, which involved torquing the remaining bolts, installing a new one, and leaving the mystery bolt somewhere in the bottom of the transmission. All told, $300. I think they were glad I knew what the problem was, in a way, because it's something they hadn't run into on an Xterra. My Xterra lasted another 100,000 miles, and I sold it right when I felt the problem may return.
Put your trust in a good local mechanic, and you'll have a backup plan any time you get into a bind. I have 2 now.
Dealers need to learn that trust is gained through fair treatment. Glad I am out of warranty, not that I ever brought my truck to a dealer unless I knew what was wrong and knew what it entailed to fix it. It's always good to know more than the service manager and his lackeys.
I had the bolts on my torque converter come loose on my Xterra. I rattled into the dealership and they insisted they knew what it was. I asked them if they'd do a free diagnosis, so I could figure out if I wanted to move forward, they said sure. Well, they came back with it needing a new transmission. That's when I sprung the problem on them. They told me I was wrong, and that they've never heard of that happening. They unbolted a window to the transmission and sure enough, they found what I already knew. Only one bolt was remotely snug, most were loose, and one was missing! Well, long story short, I went for the cheap repair, which involved torquing the remaining bolts, installing a new one, and leaving the mystery bolt somewhere in the bottom of the transmission. All told, $300. I think they were glad I knew what the problem was, in a way, because it's something they hadn't run into on an Xterra. My Xterra lasted another 100,000 miles, and I sold it right when I felt the problem may return.
Put your trust in a good local mechanic, and you'll have a backup plan any time you get into a bind. I have 2 now.
the MB way of installing the hitch wiring is insane as they run wires to just about any place in the vehicle (the dash under the seat, to the battery.
$550 to do that is dirt cheap.
You can do it yourself for under $100 including parts. depending on your dexterity you should be able to do this well in about 1 day.
You'll need a electronic trailer controller because the CANBUS electronics of the Sprinter don't like extra current draw from the trailer.
I ended up getting the Circuit Protected Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness.
The controller isolates the electrics of the hitch from the vehicle and merges the turn and brake light signal for a single light system.
You can simply tap into the individual lead for each light to drive the controller.
The controller is about the size of a deck of cards and fits nicely below the left taillight (remove the frame and lens to do this.)
The controller needs a source of power so you'll have to tap into the electrics under the drivers seat and run a single lead back to the controller.
Make sure to include a fuse to protect the wiring from shorts.
All wires should be run in "split loom tubing" it looks like a miniature vacuum cleaner hose with a slit to insert the wires easily.
The split loom protects the wire from being cut or worn as it rubs against shart metal corners of the Sprinter body.
I got the CURT hitch but Seek and others have had good luck with the Cequent made hitches sold under different brands.
Cheers
George
$550 to do that is dirt cheap.
You can do it yourself for under $100 including parts. depending on your dexterity you should be able to do this well in about 1 day.
You'll need a electronic trailer controller because the CANBUS electronics of the Sprinter don't like extra current draw from the trailer.
I ended up getting the Circuit Protected Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness.
The controller isolates the electrics of the hitch from the vehicle and merges the turn and brake light signal for a single light system.
You can simply tap into the individual lead for each light to drive the controller.
The controller is about the size of a deck of cards and fits nicely below the left taillight (remove the frame and lens to do this.)
The controller needs a source of power so you'll have to tap into the electrics under the drivers seat and run a single lead back to the controller.
Make sure to include a fuse to protect the wiring from shorts.
All wires should be run in "split loom tubing" it looks like a miniature vacuum cleaner hose with a slit to insert the wires easily.
The split loom protects the wire from being cut or worn as it rubs against shart metal corners of the Sprinter body.
I got the CURT hitch but Seek and others have had good luck with the Cequent made hitches sold under different brands.
Cheers
George
That’s what I felt for two days work. Still sucks, but it’s done and it looks great.
From what my dealer said OVER AND OVER again, was that it was a bigger pain than they calculated, thus trying to squeeze another $150.00 out of me.
I went through two dealer buy backs, with several Lawyers involved, and I can attest to them having hundreds of ways to deny any claims or any responsibility when it come to a buy back or warranty claim. Lucky for me I document everything, and won both cases. But, I did see how they operate, and it‘s NOT fair to the customer.
Altered Sprinter
Happy Little Vegemite
They should have and including both approved Tow hitches! But Dodge can't get it right with the numbers, and they have a different class of weights, which doesn't help them either.
As time moves along there wll be a pdf matching both Dodge and Damlier AG's numbers. pS Dodge use an in house set of numbers for ordering as does Australia
Richard
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Altered Sprinter
Happy Little Vegemite
Found it again
Richard
Richard
jdcaples
Not Suitable w/220v Gen
This is all I know about:
TRAILER TOW GROUP - (includes)
7 pin trailer plug,
receiver hitch,
fuel line shield
Sales Code: AHT
Cost: $280.00
-Jon
windsprinter
New member
Wish I'd ordered this up-front on my 144 NCV 3 cargo ! I've just been quoted $850 minimum by a local shop for the non-step hitch and an electronic 7-pin brake controller. I'm not sure that this even includes the wiring harness, which it sounds like is required for all the safety stuff to work properly. THey were saying this was the minumum because they would have to relocate the spare, move the exhaust, etc. and they weren't sure what else would have to move. THAT doesn't sound right, some of the links people have given are simple bolt-ons. I'm hoping the dealer is a bit more reasonable, otherwise my 2002 Dakota is going to have to work extra hard (its a 3,500 # gross weight trailer+Ranger ATV).
TimJuhl
Member
I went to a local trailer shop (also welding & fabrication) and they installed a DrawTite hitch on my 2006 3500 for $210 (parts & labor.) I could have done it myself but they only charged $20 labor and did it while I waited. Of course they had to order the hitch in which took about a week. Dealer labor rates are ridiculous so get the parts and have someone else do it. It isn't rocket science after all.
If memory serves me correctly I purchased the trailer wiring harness from my Sprinter dealer for $130-150.
I installed the wiring myself without much difficulty. The instructions call for running a wire under the van to the battery. It called for dropping the fuel tank slightly and running the wire above it. Since mine was a cargo van and I had yet to install the interior I chose to run my wires inside rather than mess with the tank.
Tim
If memory serves me correctly I purchased the trailer wiring harness from my Sprinter dealer for $130-150.
I installed the wiring myself without much difficulty. The instructions call for running a wire under the van to the battery. It called for dropping the fuel tank slightly and running the wire above it. Since mine was a cargo van and I had yet to install the interior I chose to run my wires inside rather than mess with the tank.
Tim
i did my 2008 144'' 3500 with step bumper myself.
the hard part was finding the proper hitch as having the short wheelbase with step bumper was the issue. even though there were web based sellers, they had the wrong info and ended up returning the unit as it was wrong.
the dealer had the proper unit, but their install info was wrong and i had to figure out the proper way based on my vehicle.
as far as the factory harness goes. it works great, but its instructions are a pictorial with 50+ drawings. it does require a lot of work and cutting and soldering the wires to the tail lights. all worked out properly, but it's not a simple plug and play for a 2008.
the hitch ran $300 and the wiring was another $150. from the dealer. so 450 was my cost, plus a day of work. honestly i enjoy the work, but 850 for a factory install is not bad after i saw what was involved with all the work.
the hitch and wiring works great. if it was a plug in unit it would have been a simple 10 minute job.
rick.
the hard part was finding the proper hitch as having the short wheelbase with step bumper was the issue. even though there were web based sellers, they had the wrong info and ended up returning the unit as it was wrong.
the dealer had the proper unit, but their install info was wrong and i had to figure out the proper way based on my vehicle.
as far as the factory harness goes. it works great, but its instructions are a pictorial with 50+ drawings. it does require a lot of work and cutting and soldering the wires to the tail lights. all worked out properly, but it's not a simple plug and play for a 2008.
the hitch ran $300 and the wiring was another $150. from the dealer. so 450 was my cost, plus a day of work. honestly i enjoy the work, but 850 for a factory install is not bad after i saw what was involved with all the work.
the hitch and wiring works great. if it was a plug in unit it would have been a simple 10 minute job.
rick.
ECU
2006 T1n 118 Sprinter
I purchased and got about the same price. Cheaper than the aftermarket products, and better.
The install took about an hour. A bit difficult my myself, holding and bolting.
The electric was a pain to run all the way. I got dirty.
Then there was the trip to the eye doctor to remove some crud that fell in my eye...
The install took about an hour. A bit difficult my myself, holding and bolting.
The electric was a pain to run all the way. I got dirty.
Then there was the trip to the eye doctor to remove some crud that fell in my eye...
kkanuck
LUV my T1N
If I already have a towbar and a working flat 4 wire trailer wiring, and wish to convert this to a 7 prong circular and add electric brake control, do I need anything special to make it work besides the brake pedal switch, the wiring to the rear, the controller, and the 7 prong circular wire connector at the tow bar?
if I run wires under the vehicle in a plastic wire loom and use 12 gauge stranded copper for the brake is that okay?
Cheers,
Tibor
if I run wires under the vehicle in a plastic wire loom and use 12 gauge stranded copper for the brake is that okay?
Cheers,
Tibor
I installed the hitch and wiring myself. The wiring harness is the type that connects into the dashboard and fuse panel and was a major pain to install. The hitch itself was a problem because some of the bolt holes didn't line-up exactly and I had to file them larger to fit. Seems the cost was around $550 for the hitch and harness. The wiring that connects to the lights is cheaper and simpler to install, but wasn't available back then.
Re: Adding A Towing Hitch $855.00/ 2hr mech
I installed a draw tite hitch....and at first thought the bolts with the plate nuts would be impossible to install. But I followed instructions, and had to make the coiled wire bolt pullers to feed the boltus up to the tapped plates. If anyone is in doubt about the process, I think there is a good website copy of the instructions. In any case, not really easy, but it went about two hours total. Then the wiring which can be another whole issue.
A good hitch installer will know how to do the bolts. Typical OEM box frame attachment.
I have the long wb with the spare right up to the bumper, no interference problems at all.
I would go to a good hitch installer, dealers are simply not familiar with the vehicle or the process, and are not worth the 'factory' warranty.
Dale
I installed a draw tite hitch....and at first thought the bolts with the plate nuts would be impossible to install. But I followed instructions, and had to make the coiled wire bolt pullers to feed the boltus up to the tapped plates. If anyone is in doubt about the process, I think there is a good website copy of the instructions. In any case, not really easy, but it went about two hours total. Then the wiring which can be another whole issue.
A good hitch installer will know how to do the bolts. Typical OEM box frame attachment.
I have the long wb with the spare right up to the bumper, no interference problems at all.
I would go to a good hitch installer, dealers are simply not familiar with the vehicle or the process, and are not worth the 'factory' warranty.
Dale
SprinterSales
New member
For what it's worth, I just had a local hitch company install a hitch on a little 118" wheelbase Sprinter. They had to remove the spare and they hard wired the electrical connections. Cost was $322.00.