Riv Nuts

Mike LaB.

New member
When I first bought my Sprinter I decided I didn't want to attach things to it's interior body by simply installing sheet metal screws into the vans hollow metal parts so I bought a Rivet Nut Installation Tool. In a kit, with a selection of riv nuts and mandrels, it cost me $100.oo. It is convenient but pricey. I use a step drill for making the holes and it is a fairly simple operation. However, if I had known at the time about other installation options I would have considered them first. These are links to two ways of fabricating your own tool.

http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/rivnut-tool.html

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/oakwood_data/pulling_rivnuts.htm

Also, I located an item in the Home Depot that they call a Mirror Mount Nut. It works the same way as the rivnuts except that when it expands when installed it folds in the blind hole similar to other hollow wall fasteners I've used in my house. These particular Mirror Mount Nuts are threaded for 1/4-20 machine screws and so far have been plenty sturdy enough for what I've used them. They also have a grey rubber coating on the face side which kind of matches the front interior of my van. In some areas they may be easier to find than riv nuts.
 

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maxextz

Rollin Rollin Rollin.....
hey mike will they not loosen and turn?:hmmm: the ones i have at the back doors that hold on the grab handles are loose and dont know how to get them out without having to make a bigger hole.

that what i dont like about those type of fastners.
just mho.
max........
 

spagthorpe

New member
I spent a little more for my rivet nut setup, closer to $200 for a nice tool from McMaster-Carr, and a couple of sizes of nuts, but it works so slick, and the result so rock solid that I don't regret it. I can even use it for a while and sell it later if needed, as it's a beautiful tool. I wish I had known about these things years ago. Long live Rivet Nuts!!!
 

Mike LaB.

New member
Max,
I haven't had any of the mirror nuts come loose yet. I like the way they fold over behind the hole instead of swelling inside the hole like I've seen some riv nuts do. Also they have a wider face flange. The rubber coating makes them bulkier behind whatever you are fastening to them but for my applications that hasn't been an issue yet and I suppose the rubber coating could be peeled off. :hmmm:

Also, to remove the loose ones you mentioned, if I was doing it I would drill them out either the same size or a tad smaller hole than what you installed them in and try crushing them in towards the center of the hole with a pin punch, etc., and letting them fall inside the hole, kind of like what you do to get rid of a pop rivet.

I have to admit I don't have all that much experience with riv nuts, only just since I got the Sprinter but I'm sure this is just the beginning! :lol:
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
RivNut makes a modified version they call the PlusNut for sheet metal applications (like the Sprinter).

Like the mirror nut, it has a slotted shaft leading to the threaded "nut" section.
Those slots allow/convince the shaft to fold out like the mirror nut.
The PlusNut's threaded section is made of the same metal (continuous piece) as the spreading flanges,
it's not an added nut held in the cage of lighter metal.

Like Max, the only PlusNut that is spinning in my Sprinter is one of those the dealer added for the rear grab handles.
All of the ones i've installed (free hand-wrenched installation "tool") are holding solidly.

--dick
 

Mike LaB.

New member
"RivNut makes a modified version they call the PlusNut for sheet metal applications (like the Sprinter)."

Thanks Dick, that's good to know. I'll ask the vendor where I bought my riv nut tool about them.
 

d_bertko

Active member
I figured out from the rivet nut catalogs that most of the rivet nuts I needed were spec'd for the single interior wall thickness where I mounted my L-track. If you're joining two pieces of sheet metal together or mounting one in thicker metal you may need a few with a greater crush thickness.

I could not figure out why there were two kinds of many sizes. A call to the mfr engineer enlightened me to the availability of a vibration-resistant (ie automotive) flavor for slightly more money.

I used a hand tool and installed close to 400 for my elaborate L-track. I got the best hand tool I could find but it still took me a week because I'd only do a small number at a time because of the strain.

I would have bought an air compressor and air tools if I'd known how useful they'd have been for this DIY.
 

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