Trailer Wiring Options

RICKOLA

Member
i just purchased the factory tow wiring harness for my 2008, 3500, 144''

biggest issue is that the instructions are all universal language pictures.

from what i can make out, most of the pictures are for getting access to the factory battery under the floor.

since i have a 144'' the loom is designed for the 170'' too. (extra length) can i easily run and connect to the factory contractor battery under the hood for my power and ground? this will keep me from having to pull up the floor panels. plus i can easily access the 20 amp fuse it comes with under the hood.

there is cutting and splicing at the rear lights. they include some shrink tubing and brass clips. it shows cutting the factory harness in half to slide the shrink tubing, crimping the new to the 2 halfs and soldering.

i would like to just strip the insulation and solder without cutting it in half and then properly tape and insulate the connection.

so to sum it up, can i connect to the secondary battery and can i splice without cutting the wires?

yes or no and why or why not.

thanks,

rick.
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
Rick...I can't think of a reason why you couldn't wire it to the aux battery in the engine compartment.
 

Goliath

New member
An earlier thread on trailer wiring. My dealer used crimp lock splices, not solder and heatshrink tubing as the instructions required. I'm not sure what the long-term ramifications are. But if the trailer lights ever stop working, I'll know what the prime culprit is.

Nathan
 

BBlessing

61k happy miles
An earlier thread on trailer wiring. My dealer used crimp lock splices, not solder and heatshrink tubing as the instructions required. I'm not sure what the long-term ramifications are. But if the trailer lights ever stop working, I'll know what the prime culprit is.

Nathan
those "crimp lock splicers" are called "scotch locks" they are the worst thing you can do to a piece of wire. they actually cut some of the strands of wire, and over time can become loose connections from road shock and vibration. DO NOT USE THESE!

bb
 

RICKOLA

Member
goliath, thanks for you link to your dealer disaster.

i was always planning on installing the hitch and wiring myself. i was also shocked at the wiring pictorial too. looks like the majority of the pictures was on how to access the battery box under the floor. that's why i want to go to the aux. battery on the firewall. the excess wire will be absorbed with the extra run to the engine compartment.

the factory hitch was easy once i figured out how to do it for my application. the dealer part shows it fit my 3500 144 with step bumper. the instructions were way off. it shows bolting the brackets to the inside of the frame. the brackets needed to be bolted to the outside frame members straddling the step bumper brackets with special spacers.

so all in all, i'm glad to do it myself and have you guys as a good back up being there who have done that been there.

probably next weekend as this weekend i'm out of town.

thanks,

rick.
 

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