Road Trip:St Louis to Jackson, WY

Started out great t 4:30 am. Had a hard time starting it after fueling at 350 miles. At next fuel stop, 700 total miles of planned 1280, it wouldn't start. In fact, after the trouble at the first stop I let it run to fuel it and when I took off the fuel cap it quit. Cranked a while and no luck. Pulled fuel lines from lift pump and no luck. Maybe air leak? BTW it has anew fuel filter on it, only 500 miles on it. Rolled the dine and bought a $69 diesel in line pump from advance auto parts and some 3/8 fuel line and clamps. Put that in before the filter and bam, runs like a new one! Got a great and much appreciated call from doktor a to help diagnose after I was rolling again. Next exit, 25 miles later, I pulled off and shut of the new inline fuel pump. Everything was cool for about 8 miles then the little light with the tracks under it came on and I went into slo-mo. I pulled off again and replaced the almost new fuel filter with my spare, purged the lines with my new electric pump, which is still installed, and took off. 100 feet later the same light came on again. I turned on the inline pump again and restarted the sprinter. the light was now off. I then drove to Cheyenne WY, about 200 miles with no problems. Any chance I'll make Jackson, WY with this rigged up deal? Who knows! Wish me luck. Any ideas as to the problem? BTW 2003 3500 158 SHC 149,008 as of tonight. I just bought it a week ago in TN, did oil change and fuel filter myself, had dodge dealer do ATF fluid flush and new key program, also scanned codes to look for problems and did 32 point happy horse**** inspection. Only got charged $230! Cheap! Shifts way better after the flush and also got rid of mild case of the rsn! Sorry for the novella.

Sorry for your troubles.... at least it seems that you're able to come up with solutions, albeit perhaps temporary ones. My Sprinter has been trouble free to date but you can bet that I'm filing away the experiences of members like yourselves "just in case."

I hope you are able to complete your journey and resolve the issue with your van.

Tim

stinewoodworking,
Glad it worked out for you, although I'm sure it must have seemed a bit sketchy at times.

I have a couple questions if you don't mind.

"Before the fuel filter." So that puts it after the OEM mechanical pump? [Edit: I'll answer my own question here. "No." The flow is: Tank fuel pickup to filter to mechanical low pressure pump mounted on the engine. ] I presume you didn't need to cut or disturb the OEM lines much?

Did Doktor A mention whether there was any reason to not leave your auxiliary electric fuel pump installed or will you remove it? I wonder if it adds enough pressure drop to cause your "low pressure" light if the electric pump is not running? Maybe changing your fuel filter the second time resolved your problems?

What is the brand and model number of the electric pump you installed? Somebody may want to order one or look up the specifications.

As an aside, I wonder if this might be a permanent replacement for a bad OEM mechanical fuel pump? Our diesels can't run without 12 volts anyway so committing to one more electrical device in a pre-2004 Sprinter doesn't seem a real problem. That is as opposed to a fully mechanical diesel engine.

Does your low pressure fuel icon light on the far left come on during the pre-start light check before starting your engine? (My 2004 icon doesn't light. I'm wondering whether my lamp is burned out. I'm not curious enough to take the dash apart just to check a lamp though.) I ask you because you know your low fuel pressure light works from these last issues and could verify the operation before your next start.

Thanks, AP/vic

Aqua Puttana said:

stinewoodworking,

Does your low pressure fuel icon light on the far left come on during the pre-start light check before starting your engine? (My 2004 icon doesn't light. I'm wondering whether my lamp is burned out. I'm not curious enough to take the dash apart just to check a lamp though.) I ask you because you know your low fuel pressure light works from these last issues and could verify the operation before your next start.

Thanks, AP/vic

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The Instrument Cluster's low fuel pressure warning light is exclusively found on the 612. The 612 version has a low pressure, feed side, fuel pressure sensor. This sensor is used by the ECM for diagnostics (its output can be read by the DRBIII) and for the ECM to operate this particular warning light (found between the SRS light and the Park brake light).

The 647 does not have a low side pressure sensor, thus no light nor low side DTC capabilities (other than circuit of electric feed pump). 647 Low side pressure readings are not available to the DRBIII and must be measured with a mechanical gauge. Doktor A

Doktor A,
Thanks for the clarification on the low fuel pressure indicator.

After reading your reply I double checked my 2004 Owner's manual. Page #4 has a picture of the entire dash panel and does not show a Low fuel Pressure icon on the lower left. Pages #92, 95, 96, 97, 98, 135, 147,148,and 149 include the icon in all dash pictures. (Why did I bother to check and list every page??)

Before asking my questions I had thumbed through the 2004 manual and saw the low fuel pressure icon with the "railroad tracks" beneath. Seeing that, I didn't go any further figuring I had identified it. A second look through the manual revealed that the Low Fuel Pressure icon shows in the pictures, but it is never identified with a large superimposed arrow nor is the function described in the manual as every other idiot light is.

My guess is there are probably left over pictures of the icon included in the manual because they didn't update all the OM612 pictures used for my 2004 OM647 version. Being that the Low Fuel icon does show up in my manual I don't feel quite so bad about asking the question.

Thanks again for the info.

Now what about using an aftermarket electric fuel pump to replace a bad OEM low pressure mechanical one? (Pushy aren't I?)

AP/vic

Aqua Puttana said:

Doktor A,
Thanks again for the info.

Now what about using an aftermarket electric fuel pump to replace a bad OEM low pressure mechanical one? (Pushy aren't I?) AP/vic

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Assuming you have not destroyed your injection system by misfueling with gasoline- how often do you suppose a robust, mechanical, low pressure gear action pump (lubricated by diesel fuel), downstream of the fuel filter and driven by the camshaft timing chain is prone to failure? Not likely.

Because this mechanical pump is drawing fuel from the tank, air leakage anywhere along its inlet plumbing (all the way to tank) is the likely culprit. A desperate emergency fix in the clever form of his low pressure (5psi) electric pump could likely mask such air leakage.

He does need to be aware of expelling fuel from a loose fitting, damaged pipe or defective o-ring-whatever the original source of air entry may have been. Doktor A

Sorry I've been lax in reporting progress! I made it to Jackson, but still had to keep the electric pump running all the time. Any time I tried to go without it the light came on again and put me into slo-mo. The pump is aMr Gasket 12sd btw, it makes between 4 and 10 psi max. Made for diesel only. It was not after the mech. pump but after the fuel tank module and before the filter thus before anything except the fuel tank pickup and hose. I left it sit mon night in Jackson and started it and ran it around town today with no pump and no problems! Self fixing leak? Anyway, the little tabs to lock the fuel supply line to the center fitting of the fuel filter are broken off. I didn't know enough to know this before, but they are gone. I stopped at NAPA today and picked up 2 spare fuel filters at $40.35 each! OUCH! And I pulled off the o-ring at the fuel line described above. Of course, Napa didn't have anything that I thought would work so I put it back together and guess what? You are right! Warning light and slo-mo again. Luckily I left the electric pump in place so I switched it on and voila, oof we go! So -its got to be that bad fitting right!? I saw a Dodge dealer and stopped there. They are ordering the fuel line for me, it only cost like $18, I couldn't believe it! It should arrive tomorrow and I'll get it put on when I have a chance as I am in Jackson working at present. I head out to Park City and Salt Lake Sunday, so that will be the real test. You can bet until I am real sure of the fix that the 12 volt pump will remain in place and ready to spring into action! Anyway, I still love the Sprinter and just assume that this was really my fault for not knowing enough to notice the broken locking tabs on the quick connect fitting at the filter. I hope the new line fixes the problem! Did I mention that my RSN was nearly 100% cured by the trans flush at Dodge in Florissant MO? Best $239 i've spent in a while. Thanks again to Docktor A, who I will be seeing on my next east coast run for a full tutorial. Any one else, feel free to ask questions - we are all learning here!

One more thing, I think the mech fuel pump supplies like 55 psi to the injection pump, so I dont think the 10 psi max from the 12 volt would be an adequite long term replacement, and besides, if your mech pump is toast, it sure looks like an easy fix - it's right there on the front of the engine! One would probably ned a pressure gauge set up top make certain that the mech pump is kaput. Enough from me!

stinewoodworking,
Thanks for the replies.

For what it's worth, I once had fuel line clips break on a Utilimaster Walk-in van. I was able to weave a thin black cable tie into the area of the missing clips from each side as a temporary fix. Well, actually the "temporary fix" was there until I sold the vehicle. I checked it often at first. The fitting never moved and the ties looked fine.

Not that you asked, but it may be worthwhile to do a search about OM612 fuel line leaks and seals. When you're back home you may want to replace/renew more than just that one fuel line. I believe there is another place down by the tank that has a bit of leak history also. Hope this does some good. AP/vic

Picked up the new fuel line today from Wolf Dodge in Jackson, WY. Only $18 - Awesome! Put it on, purged the lines, started and shut it off several times drove about ten miles with NO PROBLEMS! So far so good. I'm heading out tonight for a reception dinner - about 35 miles round trip. I'll post the details later.

So far so good. It looks like the new furl line has fixed the problem! I will update as I progress.

OK, now the glow plug light stays on all the time, that's not good right? Heading to Park City UT from Jackson today!

Air sucking problem STILL not resolved! It started to act up again today and the light came on. I stopped and could see air going through the line. There has to be a problem somewhere before the filter in the line or the pickup. Anybody ever dropped a tank?

stinewoodworking said:

Air sucking problem STILL not resolved! It started to act up again today and the light came on. I stopped and could see air going through the line. There has to be a problem somewhere before the filter in the line or the pickup. Anybody ever dropped a tank?

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Before dropping the tank, I would suggest taking advantage of your splices from the electric fuel pump and put in another piece of clear line to check that air is originating before the filter and [separately] the new pump.

Great idea! Once i get home that is what i will do. I covered 994 miles today with no problems but I am using the electric pump all the time to avoid probs. Glow plug light comes and goes. Home tomorrow if all goes well!

Took out the in line electric pump and ran it a while with no problems. Decided to drop the tank to do a visual on everything. Dropped it halfway and all looked good. Put everything back together and ran it from ST louis to Milwaukee with no problems, about 6.5 hours. Hoping for no problems on the way home and I'll call it fixed.