Shore Power Setup

Hello,
Im planning on running shore power into my sprinter van. Its a 2007 freight liner sprinter 2500.I plan to run a 2000 watt Wen generator. I will use the inlet to power my Coleman Mach 8 A/C and some other small aelectronics (phone, laptop and LED lights, and a water pump briefly used for a sink) when pluged into shore power or my generator and will also use it to charge my 105AH battery to power my lights, phone, and laptop when I'm not plugged into my generator or shore power. I really appreciate all the helpful people on this forum and know i couldn't do my conversion without you guys

So this is my Question:
Question 1:
Im under the impression that you need the 30 Amp shore power inlet which can be connected to 15 amp plugs with an adaptor which connects to the 3 stage charger which then connects to the batteries which then connects to the transfer switch which then connects to the A/C another line for the 24v water pump, another line for the 12v lights and another line from the transfer switch to connect to a Fuse then an outlet. The outlet will be used to power my phone and laptop I was told a inverter isn't needed and everything can be run directly from the outlet. Is this correct? Even for the 12v and 24v lights and pump?

Question 2:
I have listed everything i will be buying shortly except two things. The extension cord that connects between the 15amp plug at campsites or my generator and my input which is pretty easy and the wiring between the shore inlet, charger, battery, etc. What wiring do i buy for this? is it multiple wires or just one long wire? Any info on this will help or a link to where you got yours.

Question 3: Any Recommendations?
Thanks for the help in advance kind humans

Ive attached a diagram a few posts down

There is not a law in RV land that requires a 30 amp shore power connection.

That should be decided by what amperage you expect to need.

I have found a 15 amp connection is overkill for my application. Very convenient to be able to plug into a friend's house.

I had a electric reel in the Sprinter conversion that I did not use often enough to justify. The Transit conversion just has the male end of a cheap 12/3 HF extension cord hanging down under the driver's door. A simple aluminum angle clip is used to hook the cord up out of site. Unplanned benefit is shore power can be connected and the connection can be put back under the van on the hook to keep connection out of the weather.

Graphite Dave said:

The Transit conversion just has the male end of a cheap 12/3 HF extension cord hanging down under the driver's door. A simple aluminum angle clip is used to hook the cord up out of site. Unplanned benefit is shore power can be connected and the connection can be put back under the van on the hook to keep connection out of the weather.

Click to expand...

Do you have a picture of this? I can't picture it. Where does it enter the van?

Dave is right there is no rule that says you need 30 amp inlet. The only place you will get 30 amp is campgrounds, if you add a 30amp circuit at your house or if you get a bigger generator or connect to another 2000 watt generator. With that said adapters are available and fairly cheap to adapt to any configuration you can dream. With what you say you need, 15 amp maybe enough to run your ac, charger and maybe a laptop all at the same time but I'm not sure what amps your ac will draw. In my conversion I had 2 15amp circuits (30 amp inlet) one dedicated to heat or ac and the other to run everything else. I camp mostly with 30 amp service and this allows me to make coffee and ac or heat at the same time. I originally had a set-up like Dave's but I couldn't make coffee and run Ac or heat at the same time. Everyone's needs are different and if you mostly are going to use your generater for power or plug in at home, 15 amp maybe a good choice. If your needs will change or grow it may be wise to go ahead and install 30 amp now instead of later.

Good luck

Dan,
Would if be possible to post a sketch or diagram of what are describing in question 1?

Your air conditioner will likely determine the size (amperage) of your AC shore power connection. I'm pretty sure the smallest Mach 8 (9200 Btu CUB model) can be run on a 20 amp service but probably not 15. If you only have 20 then you may have trouble with running the AC and charging your battery and running the laptop simultaneously. The manuals of the components will tell you what their current requirements are. You should be getting a 12V pump not 24V.

I think you recognize and understand the components but need some help on how they are connected into a system that meets your needs. That's no easy task and you will need a diagram to keep it straight during the install.

hein said:

you will need a diagram to keep it straight during the install.

Click to expand...

Hello i attached diagram and would appreciate if you or anyone else could take the time to give their input. I have a few questions that id appreciate input on from anyone.
QUESTION 1:
I was told to add a transfer switch, is this necessary and if so where does it go? Ive figured out that the type of transfer switch you buy is very specific apparently and therefore I'm at a lose of finding one that would fir this diagram so please be specific if possible

QUESTION 2:
I think a second battery might be needed making my system 210AH, Thoughts? I will have a generator i can use to top off my batteries when needed

Question 3: Will the A/C still suck up a small amount of energy when not on?

Question 4: Im under the impression that i can connect everything needed with 12/2 Romex wherever their a arrow on the diagram. IS this correct?

Question 5: Is a fuse needed in this scenario between the battery and 12 volt electronics?

Question 6: Any recommendations to improve my diagram?

pfflyer said:

Dave is right there is no rule that says you need 30 amp inlet. The only place you will get 30 amp is campgrounds, if you add a 30amp circuit at your house or if you get a bigger generator or connect to another 2000 watt generator. With that said adapters are available and fairly cheap to adapt to any configuration you can dream. With what you say you need, 15 amp maybe enough to run your ac, charger and maybe a laptop all at the same time but I'm not sure what amps your ac will draw. In my conversion I had 2 15amp circuits (30 amp inlet) one dedicated to heat or ac and the other to run everything else. I camp mostly with 30 amp service and this allows me to make coffee and ac or heat at the same time. I originally had a set-up like Dave's but I couldn't make coffee and run Ac or heat at the same time. Everyone's needs are different and if you mostly are going to use your generater for power or plug in at home, 15 amp maybe a good choice. If your needs will change or grow it may be wise to go ahead and install 30 amp now instead of later.

Good luck

Click to expand...

If your able to check out my diagram, id appreciate it! You seem to have a pretty good idea of whats going on. Really appreciate all your help. Also one more question for anyone is that i used a 35 amp converter in my diagram because it had a on/off switch, whats the benefits of this? should i just get a 15amp one even tho it doesnt have a on/off switch? Thanks

danthevan said:

Do you have a picture of this? I can't picture it. Where does it enter the van?

Click to expand...

These pictures are for a Transit. The NCV3 has an electrical cable entry boot through the floor under driver's seat that could be used. Do not know if there is another path up through the B pillar like I found in the Transit.

Pictures do show the HF extension cord male end when it is unhooked and hanging down and when it is hooked up out of site. I know where it is so can unhook it without kneeling on the ground.

If you do have air conditioning and expect to stay in RV parks, then the 30 amp shore power connection would be the correct choice IMO. I do not have air conditioning so do not require the 30 amp connection. In fact probably will probably never use shore power while traveling. I have used it while building the conversion.

The duplex plug inside the van is temporary. Cable will go to a selector switch that selects either shore power or vehicle powered inverter "shore power". There will be a CB and a GFCI duplex plug installed.

danthevan said:

Hello i attached diagram and would appreciate if you or anyone else could take the time to give their input. I have a few questions that id appreciate input on from anyone.
QUESTION 1:
I was told to add a transfer switch, is this necessary and if so where does it go? Ive figured out that the type of transfer switch you buy is very specific apparently and therefore I'm at a lose of finding one that would fir this diagram so please be specific if possible
Transfer switch is used to switch AC source from shore/generator/inverter. Most large inverters have transfer switch built in. You don’t need any transfer switch with a convertor unless you want one for your generator.
QUESTION 2:
I think a second battery might be needed making my system 210AH, Thoughts? I will have a generator i can use to top off my batteries when needed
Question 3: Will the A/C still suck up a small amount of energy when not on?
No
Question 4: Im under the impression that i can connect everything needed with 12/2 Romex wherever their a arrow on the diagram. IS this correct?
Solid copper wires are normally not used in good RVs especially DIY
Question 5: Is a fuse needed in this scenario between the battery and 12 volt electronics?
Yes
Question 6: Any recommendations to improve my diagram?
Yes, copy a schematic, you can copy from this forum or from the web. You don’t need to reinvent a wheel.

Click to expand...

https://www.google.com/search?q=rv+...ved=0ahUKEwjS7d_j6__LAhUSzGMKHbQUC7cQ_AUIBigB

George.

danthevan said:

If your able to check out my diagram, id appreciate it! You seem to have a pretty good idea of whats going on. Really appreciate all your help. Also one more question for anyone is that i used a 35 amp converter in my diagram because it had a on/off switch, whats the benefits of this? should i just get a 15amp one even tho it doesnt have a on/off switch? Thanks

Click to expand...

I know enough to make me dangerous. If I understand things right your air conditioner power will not go through your converter, it will get power straight from shore/ generator. That is unless you have a 12v air conditioner. How many amps does your ac and your converter draw? You will be limited to 15 or 20 amps depending on your shore power /generator out put. A 35 amp converter doesn't draw 35 amps from shore but how much? I don't know if I figured it right but is it 3.5 amps? My concern is will you be able to run both at the same time. Probably yes but like I said I know enough to be dangerous.

I think a 15amp converter would suit your needs. You could install a switch or a breaker between it and the battery. The manufacturer of my 127ah battery recommends a 15amp multi stage charger. I read elsewhere that it is best to size the charger to your battery capacity but that could be wrong.

I agree with George's answers above

GeorgeRa said:

https://www.google.com/search?q=rv+...ved=0ahUKEwjS7d_j6__LAhUSzGMKHbQUC7cQ_AUIBigB

George.

Click to expand...

I appreciate the info. I figured out that i had to move my outlet since its 110 volt AC not 12v DC Unfortunately its brought more questions which I'm hoping someone to answer

Question 1: If i decide to only use the fan from the A/C on a cool night(2.2 amps) or want to power my outlet without being plugged in will the power go from the battery to the A/C or outlet since before the battery everything is AC(i believe power can travel both ways and not DC or one way power)?

Question 2: Am i correct in assuming that no fuse is needed between the converter and outlet or A/C and the only fuse is needed between the batteries and the 12volt systems since DC is one way current while AC is two way current, correct?

Ive attached a updated diagram purely for reference for my questions to maybe clarify what I'm asking.Thanks!
Don't know what i would do without you helpful people

pfflyer said:

I know enough to make me dangerous. If I understand things right your air conditioner power will not go through your converter, it will get power straight from shore/ generator. That is unless you have a 12v air conditioner. How many amps does your ac and your converter draw?

Click to expand...

Thanks for the help. Lol, you've been tons of help ill just double check any info you tell me to ensure that your not too dangerous.
I would still like to use the fan feature of the A/C when I'm not plugged into shore power or running my generator and was told that it doesn't go after the battery.... Where are you suggesting it goes? will i be able to run the a/c fan of the battery if its before the converter? The a/c is 115 volts

My a/c draws 12.4 amps or 2.7 on the fan setting. I believe my 35 amp converter draws 35 amps but can't find any info on this, you said that you believe a 35 amp converter only draws 3.5 amps?

Thanks

A converter converts AC current to DC (battery) current. If I am not mistaken your 35amp converter will produce 35 amp DC from 120v AC. If my math or formula is right it takes 3.5amps AC to make 35Amps DC. Anyway your Air conditioner runs on 120v. Your converter will not help you there with your fan because it produces DC. That is why I said to eliminate the line from the converter to your air conditioner.

An inverter on the other hand converts or inverts 12v DC to 120v AC. If you want to run your fan you would need at least about a 400watt (2.7amp x 120v =324 watts) "inverter" because you want to run an AC appliance from a DC battery.

2 separate items for 2 different purposes.

pfflyer said:

A converter converts AC current to DC (battery) current. If I am not mistaken your 35amp converter will produce 35 amp DC from 120v AC. If my math or formula is right it takes 3.5amps AC to make 35Amps DC. Anyway your Air conditioner runs on 120v. Your converter will not help you there with your fan because it produces DC. That is why I said to eliminate the line from the converter to your air conditioner.

An inverter on the other hand converts or inverts 12v DC to 120v AC. If you want to run your fan you would need at least about a 400watt (2.7amp x 120v =324 watts) "inverter" because you want to run an AC appliance from a DC battery.

2 separate items for 2 different purposes.

Click to expand...

Is this why i see a lot of people with a fantastic fan and a A/C on their roof? If i do go down this route would i still be able to run the A/C when plugged into shore power without teffecting the battery/inverter? or do you recommend i just suck it up and instal the A/C directly to the inlet and use the generator or shore power to run it? thanks

What happens if my batteries are completely topped off and I'm plugged into shore power? will the charger/converter know to stop drawing power or do i need to instal a circuit breaker or fuse before the converter/charger?Thanks

Based on the level of your questions I would suggest to get some basic knowledge to prevent potential problems of wrong wiring or even better just hire an electrician. You are planning to have a very simple system so hiring someone would be you best and the safest route.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMeNcRGVcUE

George.