Opinions Please on Holding Tanks Hose

So I have a 2008 Roadtrek, Dodge Chassis, Merc Engine. It had one owner before me. For a reason I don't fathom, the previous owner replaced the 16 foot + hose to drain the black and grey water with a 6 foot wider diameter (2" maybe?) hose. The shortness of that drainage hose is a big pain for me.

I phoned Roadtrek and the service guy there said that the diameter made no difference as the macerator did it's thing and he had no idea why someone would replace that hose.

I find the short length and the gasket 'thing' (sorry guys) very much a difficulty. The valve to open and close the end is so stiff I have to use a wooden 'extension' paddle to turn it. And then of course if I want to be hooked up to the sani facility at the site I have such a short hose I can't choose more level ground, etc. He (Roadtrek) recommended I go back to their original - what do you folks think?

Thanks for all input,

BList

If you look up some previous posts under my signature Jasper2222 I have a coupld of Pics of the hose I installed on mine. Still working good. Don't know if you have the same set up or not.

BList,
A too short hose is not good
I had the Kanaflex hose installed under warranty three years ago and it is working fine. Here is a link to a supplier. I would have to check on the OD dimensions but I think it is either 1 inch or 1.25 inch. RT should be able to tell you which.
http://www.morelandhose.com/industrial_hose/kana_flex_hose.htm

So what is the original 'OEM' hose that Roadtrek sells? I've never seen one so I'm wondering what it is like?

B

B
The original hose RT shipped was a white hose, supplier unknown, which tore open the very first time I tried to use it. As I mentioned above, RT paid to have that hose replaced with the green/black Kanaflex hose in the link I sent. I measured my hose and the OD is 1.25 inches. As for length I do not know. Maybe some other reader can help with that or RT should know. I would assume it is 10-12 feet or so. I have never pulled mine out all the way.

So, after a few adventures with the Merc Engine computer, I'm back. I really didn't know what OD meant btw. I thought it was "Outside Diameter" but the way I was looking at it was very uh well 'uneducated'. It's not wrapping around a tape measure which yielded 4".65 or so but rather one uses normally a calliper? An RV guy didn't have one but did a rough measurement with a tape and said it looks like I have a 1.25" hose. He also pointed out that the measured length goes from the hookup to the macerator (which is on the passenger side it seems) through to the holding 'pan' which feeds through a black pipe to the driver side where you pull it out. So Roadtrek's length he told me goes from the hookup to the macerator from passenger side through to the driver side and pull out. Which is something I didn't understand before. Somehow the amount I can pull out tho is limited to 5 - 6 feet of the hose which appears to be a Keneflex as it is the same colour and appearance as the link you provided. It looks like the previous owner cut the end tho and put in a different flow gasket arrangement. So am I understanding this properly now? I guess the guy kinda butchered the length (you can see the clamp/screw to a flow gasket (what is the *name* for that!).

What do you think my options are? It is just too short and the outlet is way too stiff for me to handle. How much length will feed into the holding box?

This is a real pain.

BList

BucketList said:

What do you think my options are? It is just too short and the outlet is way too stiff for me to handle. How much length will feed into the holding box?

This is a real pain.

BList

Click to expand...

Personally, I rarely use more than 5 or 6 feet of hose, although mine is 10-12 feet. One option for you is to have the hose replaced with a longer one. But I will say this-stuffing the full length of the Kanaflex hose back into the storage box can be a challenge, and with the limitations you say you have, you might just be asking for more trouble. Especially in cold weather when the hose gets even stiffer.

As for the valve, all the PVC ball valves like the one on your rig are very stiff. Just the nature of the beast. You might get a plumber to find a metal ball valve that's easier to turn, but if you have managed to work it with an extension stick, then why not use that?

Sometimes we create bigger problems trying to fix a minor inconvenience.

Trekker said:

As for the valve, all the PVC ball valves like the one on your rig are very stiff. Just the nature of the beast. You might get a plumber to find a metal ball valve that's easier to turn, but if you have managed to work it with an extension stick, then why not use that?

Sometimes we create bigger problems trying to fix a minor inconvenience.

Click to expand...

Well the 'extension' stick is really a paddle shape and both ends of the valve turner have snapped off actually. I need a better solution I guess. How do you level the SS with a short length? I often find that the place I want to park and level is too far away from the drain/sceptic so I have no place to put my mat, etc. And it's too much work for me to pack up enough to back up to the right length, etc. It's just a bit frustrating so i'll keep trolling for a solution!

All input welcome.

BList

If the handles on your ball valve have broken off, then replace it. It's a common part, stocked at all hardware, plumbing supply, and big box home centers. It's an easy replacement, just loosen the metal clamp where the hose meets the valve, pull it loose, then replace with the new one. In fact, it might be easier to just cut it off and put the new one on with a nice new stainless steel worm gear clamp. You'll likely find that the new valve isn't nearly as hard to turn as your old one. They tend to get stiffer with age. Spraying some silicone lube into the open end of the valve when it's closed and working that in might help to loosen it up. Really, most any type of oil will help, except WD-40.

We rarely go to places with full hookup, so leveling near the drain isn't an issue. We use the dump stations at the campgrounds, where you can pull right up to the drain.

Short hose is easier to stow. I also spray mine with silicone once in a while to help it stow. Also, spray th e ball valve with silicone will make it easier to open.

Icarus

My 2011 came with the newer green and black hose that others have identified as "Kanaflex" brand. When fully extended, it will reach just about 9 feet from the side of the van. So that might give you some idea of what you might gain by replacing the hose.

A previous thread titled "SS-Agile sewer hose, GC-2 batteries,power step" has more information and some pictures of the hose and installation. Click here for the link to that thread.

Thanks! So did u get the ID 1" which is OD 1.34"? It seems the smallest. Is it stiff or easy to push back into the holding box?

Blist


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Yes, the outside diameter of mine measures about 1.34. It is a bit stiff to push back, especially the last couple feet. Spraying the whole length with silicon lubricant spray a couple times a year really helps a lot. Overall, I like the setup. But I rarely use full hookups, so the length hasn't been much issue. I suppose it would be possible to carry an extension hose for those places where they put the sewer way in the back of the site, but that would be another item to store. Not to mention clean.

Mine was replaced twice by the dealer, eventually ending up with the neon green with black spiral hose http://www.morelandhose.com/industrial_hose/kana_flex_hose.htm that over time lost its flexibility and also seemed always to be just a bit too short. So this summer, in about 30 minutes, I replaced mine myself with the sanicon hose http://www.adventurerv.net/thetford-sanicon-retractable-hose-p-22812.html.
Because of its flexibility, it easily extends out and then retracts to store in the underside hose box.

I accessed the underside by running my rig driver's side up onto the curb in front of my house. Both the driver's side front and back wheels (2) were on the curb. This allowed for just the right amount of space to easily work underneath. Just a thought.
The ground cover protecting the macerator was held in place with only 2 nuts and bolts. I removed the screw ring clamp on the macerator end of the hose, then cut it lengthwise to make it easy to remove. Then slipped on the end of the new hose and tightened down the screw ring clamp. From the macerator to the box, I suspended the hose (very flexible) with a simple zip tie left loose. I then replaced the macerator ground cover with bolts and new locking wing nuts. Only issue was threading the hose from the macerator into the storage box, then back out to where the valve is stored. It was too flexible to just push through and hope it could be "directed". So I just cut off the harder plastic connector end on the valve end of the hose, passed an extended coat hanger through the box entrance and exit, then passed the hose over the coat hanger into and then out of the box. Then I just remove the coat hanger and pushed on the old valve salvaged from the original hose onto the hose. I used a screw ring clamp to hold the end on the old valve.
Done.

Interesting, Mikey. So the hose has enough spring-back to basically put itself away, but doesn't pull itself away from the dump station inlet?

Sorry, no it doesn't self-retract. I just gently push it back in, quickly smoothly, easily - but that's a breeze compared to my prior hoses, all of which eventually (including the Kanaflex) lost flexibility that storing the last 2-3 feet would eventually become a battle to a certain degree. At the end of its life (2-3 years maybe?), the Kanaflex would just keep pushing back out 2-3 inches which made closing the hatch tricky. And I sprayed it at least twice a year with silicon spray. There also developed a kink in the Kanaflex that I regularly had to use a set of vise grip pliers on to make the hose circular so that it would pass back through the storage box opening. The kink made the shape somewhat oblong and it just wouldn't flex back to circular with hand power alone. No issues at all with the flexibility of the Sanicon. I use my rig for 2-3 long weekends per month, and one day a week every week, and use the bathroom, so I'm using the macerator-hose system frequently. I'm very pleased with this current setup.

Makes you wonder sometimes if those at Roadtrek even use their product.

Thanks for the clarification. I haven't had any serious trouble yet with my hose after two years, but I'm definitely making a note of your hose and installation comments for what I assume will be my eventual need. I suppose it may one of those things that once the hose gets a bad kink, it's a goner, and time to quit fighting with it.

So this 21ft means from macerater on passenger side thru to driver side and then to drain?


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I am currently OOT - I will pull it out and measure it for you when I am home tomorrow. I have had NO difficulties with it reaching any dump site drain. I generally do not leave it out, but only use it when about to immediately dump. I use free interstate rest area and county fairground dump sites the vast majority of the time.

Wendy

I have a new Agile. I needed to pump the grey and black tanks about 75 ft. to a septic tank. I attached a hose connector to the rv maverator hose so I could attach a regular 3/4 inch garden hose. I now carry a ten ft. 3/4 inch hose in case I need to dump a greater distance than the rv hose in rv parks.