Front Tire Wear -- Outside Edge

kosmo

New member
Hi Guys,

At 16k miles, I'm getting excessive tire wear on the outer edges of the front tires (rotated once). Its worse on the left, but definitely present on both sides.

Could I simply need an alignment, or is this some recognized issue with Sprinters?

I typically run very lightly loaded. Probably average 900 pounds, and I'm pretty finicky about checking tires pressure with an actual gauge once a month.

Thanks for any help!

Tom
 

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
Sound like 'toe-in' out of alignment.
Do you gently 'bump' curbs when you park?
 
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sprintguy

16+ yrs Master Commercial technician
Some specs on NCV3 alignment :

WHEEL ALIGNMENT, CURB HEIGHT, AND TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS


WHEEL ALIGNMENT


NOTE: Before each alignment check the front and rear curb heights of the vehicle. Verify that it is between minimum and maximum values given.

2500 AND 3500 SERIES WITHOUT reinforced front axle
Toe-In 0.2° (±0.1°)
Camber 1.0° (±0.3°)
Caster See Curb Height Chart for proper Caster specification per vehicle

3500 SERIES WITH reinforced front axle
Toe-In 0.25° (±0.1°)
Camber 1.3° (±0.3°)
Caster See Curb Height Chart for proper Caster specification per vehicle

Note : that the Camber measurment spec is 1.0deg and 1.3deg, this type of positive camber not only tends to wear tires on the outside edge, but also aids in the incredible turning
raidius of the Sprinter. I do agree with the statement of "check for excessive toe in". Heavy toe in angles will cause tires to wear on the outside edge also (scrubbing). One more thing.... if you have the continnentals ... Get them off as soon as possible, they are garbage

Carl
 

dukepilot

Custom Spooling USA
I've noticed some cupping on the outside edge of my front left tire at 11k miles on my 2008 144" Sprinter. Haven't figured out the exact cause but I'm looking at several possibilities:

-Tire is out of balance
-Tire is under inflated at the recommended 47psi for the front.
-Flexi/weak sidewall on the cheap-ass stock tire
-Insufficient rebound damping rate in the stock front strut
-Improper alignment

I'm going to rotate and balance the tires and try higher tire pressures on the front to see if the cupping reappears. If it does, I'll look into the alignment before I install better tires. As far as I know, aftermarket struts (koni) are not yet available for the NCV3 but when/if they become available I'll install these too.

Hi Guys,

At 16k miles, I'm getting excessive tire wear on the outer edges of the front tires (rotated once). Its worse on the left, but definitely present on both sides.

Could I simply need an alignment, or is this some recognized issue with Sprinters?

I typically run very lightly loaded. Probably average 900 pounds, and I'm pretty finicky about checking tires pressure with an actual gauge once a month.

Thanks for any help!

Tom
 

shanemac

Active member
Toms description of his problem and the way he uses the van not fully loaded is just like mine and i too have this problem. Next time go to dealer i will get the alignment done, seeing my van is near the max weight i will haul.

new tires are next and Carl's description
One more thing.... if you have the continentals ... Get them off as soon as possible, they are garbage
i got a laugh out that not sure why i'am laughing 50 + thousand dollar van and i have to change tires after 20,000km:yell:
 

LondonPacific

07 Cargo Sprinter
I have this issue with my van as well. I took it in for a wheel alignment at 20k and everything was within the normal range. :idunno:I rotated my tires every 10k and got almost 50k out of them. I upgraded to the Michelins, we'll see how long they last.

Phillip
 

ches

Active member
Our Van has the same problem that I first noticed at about 30,000+mi. and a knowledgable tire guy told me that is normal for vans. The rear tires wear in the center. Would tire rotation help? I hate to admit that I didn't rotate the tires till 40,000+mi. so we are not a good example.
 

Chandlerazman

Active member
Ches, that's pretty impressive you got the mileage you did with un-rotated tires.
Even the dealer admitted the continental tires are junk. My comments should have been, "why don't you install some good ones then?!"
I think the average tire life on stock cheap-o's is usually between 30-45k miles. I have heard of higher mileage, but everyone drives differently and on varying roads.
Personally, I'd hate to think about replacing 6 tires now. I'll drive 'em till the belts spark against the pavement!

Simon
 

kosmo

New member
Thanks for all the info, especially the alignment specs, Carl.

I'll take those down to the tire shop and see if they have any ideas.

Tom
 

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
Sound like 'toe-in' out of alignment.
Do you gently 'bumb' curbs when you park?
Hmmmmm....

Ok lets try it another way. When you drive really slow, like for parking, do you feel or hear any/few clickity-claks in the steering wheel when you rotate it one direction to another? Perhaps a bit of slack?

I just had my steering rack replaced at 20k miles. In the 3 short weeks from 'clickity-clak' to repair, my fronts edges got shredded. Dealer said that he's replaced a couple previous....
 
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glasseye

Well-known member
I love this Internet thingie. :bow: For three weeks or so, a noise problem has been bugging me. Now, this thread appears.

Two days ago, I discovered the source of what I thought was a bad front left wheel bearing. I'd noticed a faint drumming sound, louder when turning right, disappearing when turning right, faintly audible at straight ahead. "Frito" is an '04 T1N with 20K miles, 10K miles since July 09 when I bought him. Original Michelins are weathered, but good tread. Until now.:hmmm:

A friend actually pointed it out to me: Left front tire scalloped on the outer edge and apparently scrubbing.:idunno: Other tires normal. All have been running at 40 psi, since I'm completely unladen 99% of the time.

I got a wheel alignment and the guy said that the toe was slightly out of spec. Rotated tires and the sound is still faintly there, but much lessened. I'll keep an eye on it.

Why always the driver's front tire?
 

gary 32

07 ncv3 pv
Hmmmmm....

Ok lets try it another way. When you drive really slow, like for parking, do you feel or hear any/few clickity-claks in the steering wheel when you you rotate it one direction to another? Perhaps a bit of slack?

I just had my steering rack replaced at 20k miles. In the 3 short weeks from 'clickity-clak' to repair, my fronts edges got shredded. Dealer said that he's replaced a couple previous....
Gentlemen,
Steering racks are documented problems with Mercedes products. Did you know that Mercedes considers a steering rack a wear and tear item like brake pads and rotors? Mine was replaced @ 500 miles, it took 4 weeks.
I filed a formal complaint with the New Motor Vehicle Board, (at the urging of the dealer) only then were they authorized to remove one from a new Sprinter and replace mine.
If the rack is noisy, steering feels notchy etc. get to a dealer and have it replaced under warranty. The independent I use advises to avoid turning the steering wheel with out some type of motion to avoid pressure on the rack.
 

Chandlerazman

Active member
Wow, so here I am getting my new '08 Sprinter transmission rebuilt at 1977mi and yet I can look forward to another month of downtime for a rack?!!! There must be a racket going on for Chrysler to be discounting these '08's. Must be some flaw that they want to get rid of by sweetening up the deal. I am still happy with my van at the price of 27k. Hopefully I'll get it back from the dealer one of these days :laughing: Perhaps by then, the loaner Sprinter they gave me will also need something replaced! Either way, I am still sticking to this thing until it starts to cost me money

Simon
 

floorman

New member
After fighten with the dealer they replaced stock tires with michelins@12,000.
My tire guy told me that a dually will push the van striaght harder than a single .this is why you should rotate tires 8-10,000miles.Ihave them rotated with every oil change.Seems to be the answer for me . And yes 6michelins aint cheap!
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
Just a data point. I grew up with more frequent tire rotations.... I do a four tire rotation every 5,000 miles or 8,000 kilometers.

So far, I'm wearing very evenly, losing 1/16th of an inch in tread depth after 20,000 miles about 32,000 kilometers. I run 47 PSI cold in the front and 70 PSI cold in the rear. I check the pressure weekly and it's never drifted.

Oh, and I trust my van (and my life, I suppose) to Michelin LTX AT2s.... not cheap, but worth it to me.

-Jon
 

sprintguy

16+ yrs Master Commercial technician
You ask and you shall recieve:

To check front curb height measure the distance between the wheel center (2) and the wheel well housing (1) which should be between the given specifications.




To check Rear curb height measure the distance between the rear shock upper bolt (1) head to the lower bolt head (2).



2500 SERIES AND 3500 SERIES without reinforced axle. Mid Wheel Base Vehicle (3665 mm (144 in.))
FRONT CURB HEIGHT REAR CURB HEIGHT CASTER
467 mm (18.4 in.) Minimum 509 mm (20 in.) 2.6° (±0.5°)
502 mm (19.8 in.) Maximum 501 mm (19.7 in.) 2.8° (±0.5°)
492 mm (19.3 in.) 2.9° (±0.5°)
484 mm (19 in.) 3.1° (±0.5°)
476 mm (18.7 in.) 3.2° (±0.5°)
467 mm (18.3 in.) 3.4° (±0.5°)
460 mm (18.1 in.) 3.6° (±0.5°)
451 mm (17.7 in.) 3.7° (±0.5°)
442 mm (17.4 in.) 3.9° (±0.5°)
434 mm (17 in.) 4.0° (±0.5°)
426 mm (16.7 in.) 4.2° (±0.5°)
417 mm (16.4 in.) 4.3° (±0.5°)
409 mm (16.1 in.) 4.5° (±0.5°)
400 mm (15.7 in.) 4.7° (±0.5°)
392 mm (15.4 in.) 4.8° (±0.5°)

3500 SERIES with reinforced axle. Mid Wheel Base Vehicle (3665 mm (144 in.))
FRONT CURB HEIGHT REAR CURB HEIGHT CASTER
497 mm (19.6 in.) Minimum 509 mm (20 in.) 2.7° (±0.5°)
513 mm (20.2 in.) Maximum 501 mm (19.7 in.) 2.9° (±0.5°)
492 mm (19.3 in.) 3.0° (±0.5°)
484 mm (19 in.) 3.2° (±0.5°)
476 mm (18.7 in.) 3.3° (±0.5°)
467 mm (18.3 in.) 3.5° (±0.5°)
460 mm (18.1 in.) 3.7° (±0.5°)
451 mm (17.7 in.) 3.8° (±0.5°)
442 mm (17.4 in.) 4.0° (±0.5°)
434 mm (17 in.) 4.1° (±0.5°)
426 mm (16.7 in.) 4.3° (±0.5°)
417 mm (16.4 in.) 4.4° (±0.5°)
409 mm (16.1 in.) 4.6° (±0.5°)
400 mm (15.7 in.) 4.7° (±0.5°)
392 mm (15.4 in.) 4.9° (±0.5°)

2500 SERIES AND 3500 SERIES without reinforced axle. Long Wheel Base Vehicle (4325 mm (170 in.))
FRONT CURB HEIGHT REAR CURB HEIGHT CASTER
467 mm (18.4 in.) Minimum 509 mm (20 in.) 2.9° (±0.5°)
502 mm (19.8 in.) Maximum 501 mm (19.7 in.) 3.1° (±0.5°)
492 mm (19.3 in.) 3.2° (±0.5°)
484 mm (19 in.) 3.3° (±0.5°)
476 mm (18.7 in.) 3.5° (±0.5°)
467 mm (18.3 in.) 3.6° (±0.5°)
460 mm (18.1 in.) 3.7° (±0.5°)
451 mm (17.7 in.) 3.9° (±0.5°)
442 mm (17.4 in.) 4.0° (±0.5°)
434 mm (17 in.) 4.1° (±0.5°)
426 mm (16.7 in.) 4.3° (±0.5°)
417 mm (16.4 in.) 4.4° (±0.5°)
409 mm (16.1 in.) 4.5° (±0.5°)
400 mm (15.7 in.) 4.7° (±0.5°)
392 mm (15.4 in.) 4.8° (±0.5°)

3500 SERIES with reinforced axle. Long Wheel Base Vehicle (4325 mm (170 in.))
FRONT CURB HEIGHT REAR CURB HEIGHT CASTER
497 mm (19.6 in.) Minimum 509 mm (20 in.) 3.0° (±0.5°)
513 mm (20.2 in.) Maximum 501 mm (19.7 in.) 3.1° (±0.5°)
492 mm (19.3 in.) 3.3° (±0.5°)
484 mm (19 in.) 3.4° (±0.5°)
476 mm (18.7 in.) 3.5° (±0.5°)
467 mm (18.3 in.) 3.7° (±0.5°)
460 mm (18.1 in.) 3.8° (±0.5°)
451 mm (17.7 in.) 3.9° (±0.5°)
442 mm (17.4 in.) 4.1° (±0.5°)
434 mm (17 in.) 4.2° (±0.5°)
426 mm (16.7 in.) 4.3° (±0.5°)
417 mm (16.4 in.) 4.5° (±0.5°)
409 mm (16.1 in.) 4.6° (±0.5°)
400 mm (15.7 in.) 4.7° (±0.5°)
392 mm (15.4 in.) 4.9° (±0.5°)

P.S. I love copy/ paste :bounce:

Carl
 

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