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View Full Version : My Sprinter Shuts Down While Driving Interstate


DixieDave
11-27-2006, 02:08 PM
A very weird thing happens to me when I drive my 04 sprinter. It for no reason dies on me while driving. Usually it is when I am driving on the interstate. A engine light goes on and I have to glide to the side of the road. This is very dangerous. I then crank it back up and it is fine. Has any one ever had this problem?

pgr
11-27-2006, 09:36 PM
Have your EGR valve checked out

Paul

DixieDave
11-28-2006, 11:53 AM
Thanks, what they did was place a ground on my egr and it may have helped a little but the procedure did not resolve the issue. It has been to the Sprinter dealer 3 times. The dealer called Sprinter technical assistance and no one from tac had a clue. So this is what I have figured out: My oil stick always registered that I was a 1/2 quart low on oil so I always used 10 quarts of oil instead of 9 1/2. When someone told me not to use 10 quarts I began using 9 1/2 qt's and the problem went away. Weird Ha!

03sprinter
12-15-2007, 06:28 PM
New member, found this in search.
Ditto experience with 03 freightliner 200K+. It just started. I found that quicky turning key off and back on you don't loose too much speed. It mostly happens when accelerating or heavy footed. Also pressing brake pedal after starting usually kills engine recently opening driver window killed engine. Dealer analysis is instrument cluster failure???
I took instrument cluster out hoping for loose connector, but no luck there. But,
there is a mysterious black box snapped intot he back of the instrument cluster with a multiwire connector plugged-in. This RKE-Immobilzer make no physical electrical connections to cluster. I wonder if this "immobilzer" is the culprit. Unfortunatley, the dealer can't find it a parts search even with the DC part numbers.
Any ideas? I'll drain a pint of oil.

Vibrating mirrors? After complete disassembly of P-side mirrror I found the long allen head bolt accessible from below mirror has so much locktight on the bolt it appears tight when in fact it isn't. Just crank down till the locktight breaks loose and the tightened bolt stopped my seriously dangerous mirror vibration. If anybody wants to know how to take a mirror off or apart. Same with removing broken off keys stuck in the doorlock. I can help.

sikwan
12-15-2007, 08:09 PM
This RKE-Immobilzer make no physical electrical connections to cluster. I wonder if this "immobilzer" is the culprit. Unfortunatley, the dealer can't find it a parts search even with the DC part numbers.
Any ideas? I'll drain a pint of oil.

That black box is the receiver box for your key FOB.

Vibrating mirrors? After complete disassembly of P-side mirrror I found the long allen head bolt accessible from below mirror has so much locktight on the bolt it appears tight when in fact it isn't. Just crank down till the locktight breaks loose and the tightened bolt stopped my seriously dangerous mirror vibration. If anybody wants to know how to take a mirror off or apart. Same with removing broken off keys stuck in the doorlock. I can help.

Hmmm...:hmmm: After tightening it, does it vibrate still? Like a little or none at all?

kkanuck
12-16-2007, 04:02 AM
New member, found this in search.
Ditto experience with 03 freightliner 200K+. It just started. I found that quicky turning key off and back on you don't loose too much speed. It mostly happens when accelerating or heavy footed. Also pressing brake pedal after starting usually kills engine recently opening driver window killed engine. Dealer analysis is instrument cluster failure???
I took instrument cluster out hoping for loose connector, but no luck there. But,
there is a mysterious black box snapped intot he back of the instrument cluster with a multiwire connector plugged-in. This RKE-Immobilzer make no physical electrical connections to cluster. I wonder if this "immobilzer" is the culprit. Unfortunatley, the dealer can't find it a parts search even with the DC part numbers.
Any ideas? I'll drain a pint of oil.

Vibrating mirrors? After complete disassembly of P-side mirrror I found the long allen head bolt accessible from below mirror has so much locktight on the bolt it appears tight when in fact it isn't. Just crank down till the locktight breaks loose and the tightened bolt stopped my seriously dangerous mirror vibration. If anybody wants to know how to take a mirror off or apart. Same with removing broken off keys stuck in the doorlock. I can help.

Do you have to remove the mirror to crank the bolt down?

mean_in_green
12-16-2007, 01:04 PM
I found that quicky turning key off and back on you don't loose too much speed.

Do it carefully, if you must. Although the NAG1 'box is very durable in normal use you could easily bend the selector fork or damage the internals leaving you with an extra problem to sort out...

Simon

03sprinter
12-16-2007, 04:26 PM
That black box is the receiver box for your key FOB.



Hmmm...:hmmm: After tightening it, does it vibrate still? Like a little or none at all?
After tightening no vibration at all! There is a serated edge on the connection of the boss to the mirror arm. If the long connecting bolt does not clamp the two pieces together a little vibration starts fretting away the serations. Finally there is enough slop that the mirror can vibrate. Mine got so bad that the mirro would move approx. an 1" front to back. This was particularly dangerous at night and when it is raining. I had thought that it was a loose remote adjustment mechanism, but it was the worn serated edge and loose mounting bolt.
03 sprinter

03sprinter
12-16-2007, 04:29 PM
Do you have to remove the mirror to crank the bolt down?
No, it is visible and accessible from below the mirror. Sit on the ground and look up you will see the allen head bolt.

BULBASOR
12-16-2007, 06:32 PM
So are we all agreed that it's the imobilizer that is shutting down his sprinter?

Would putting a new battery in the key solve the problem?

KenB
12-17-2007, 04:45 PM
I think that it is a

"No"

and a

"No"

The one cited above was the actual dash board, not the imobilizer.

Also, the battery in the key fob is for door lock functions. The "chip" is passive, or passive/active (passive until energized by the imobilizer signal), and is not powered by the battery in the fob.

I am one of those who finds the oil to always be low... HOT, warm, cool, COLD... even VERY hot, the oil has never shown above 1/2 quart low with 9.5 quarts in (always with oil filter change... never goes low or high either one with correct oil). With 10 quarts, is still always low, from COLD to HOT... wait for oil to drain back as well.

I have even tried 9 quarts (you can't go wrong just 1/2 quart low, right?). It wasn't even on the dipstick marks at all, just barely on the red plastic end of the stick. 1/2 quart more never got me near 1/2 quart low on the scale, just (barely) onto test area of "X"s. So onto 10 quarts... never has been over-full on the stick at any temp... immediately or waiting 2, 4, 5, 10, 15 minutes for oil to flow back.

Living on the edge of Sprinter sanity... and loving it.
KenB

BULBASOR
12-17-2007, 05:25 PM
So the Sprinter shuts down if the dash says the oil is low? I guess I'm really confused on this one.

Thanks for explaining the key thing. I was always worried that the battery in the FOB would go dead and I would not be able to start the Sprinter!! (Yes, I am that dumb!)

I had the oil thing on the dash flash low, and high at me because of little "problem" I had once http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=13454&postcount=31

but the van never ever "shut down" even with warnings on the dash computer. What's up with that??

(I don't know how to link past threads so please forgive me if that link no worky. I was trying to get to here?:
http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=640&highlight=bulbasor

sikwan
12-17-2007, 06:08 PM
So the Sprinter shuts down if the dash says the oil is low?

On a low, my light comes on. It goes off depending on the position of the oil level. This could be different if it was empty.

(barely) onto test area of "X"s. So onto 10 quarts... never has been over-full on the stick at any temp...

I can 2nd Ken's findings. On this last oil + filter change, I had to fill it with 10 quarts.

03sprinter
12-17-2007, 07:25 PM
OK I'm new. But the thread seems to have gotten lost in the dialogue.
The original comment was engine dying while driving on the interstate. First reply says check EGR. Then dealer says to ground EGR. What good does grounding a metal part that is bolted to the engine and already grounded do? Then original thread starter says drain oil from 10 qts to 9.5 Qts solved problem. Exactly how does make sense? So 10 qts can shut down engine and 9.5 qts doesn't.
Some how the discussion turns to low oil volume and shutting engine down.
I am back to original question.
When driving at highway speed and under acceleration what can cause the engine to die as if the key were turned off but all of the electrics stay lit but go to zero even speedo even though you are still going 70+mph?
Has anyone else had this occur and with some frequency? I had it happen to me about 20 times one evening during the course of 600 miles.

BULBASOR
12-17-2007, 07:52 PM
:thinking:Me lost too.

Did draining off the pint of oil fix the problem on sprinter03?

:popcorn:

sikwan
12-17-2007, 07:58 PM
I am back to original question.
When driving at highway speed and under acceleration what can cause the engine to die as if the key were turned off but all of the electrics stay lit but go to zero even speedo even though you are still going 70+mph?
Has anyone else had this occur and with some frequency? I had it happen to me about 20 times one evening during the course of 600 miles.

My guess would be an electrical gremlin somewhere like this one...

http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1912&highlight=chaf

...but supposedly the above only happens to late model T1N's. My easy guess would be a weak battery.

BULBASOR
12-17-2007, 08:18 PM
:popcorn:
Oooh, oooh, I love a mystery.

What happens next?

unik
12-17-2007, 09:05 PM
My guess would be an electrical gremlin somewhere like this one...

http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1912&highlight=chaf

...but supposedly the above only happens to late model T1N's. My easy guess would be a weak battery.

I think it is in a fuel filter, or drops of water in a fuel.
Folks who is in snow and ice zone keep your tanks up to cork with disel fuel. It will decrise possible condensation inside tank.:2cents::professor:
Dizel motor itself does not need a battery,unles for cranking up.
Well it maybe a theory ftom last century. Now it is Milenium and they put computers alover.
So far motor shall run if it is no electricity at all:lol:

sikwan
12-17-2007, 09:34 PM
Dizel motor itself does not need a battery,unles for cranking up.
Well it maybe a theory ftom last century. Now it is Milenium and they put computers alover.
So far motor shall run if it is no electricity at all:lol:

I wonder about that too. Is the alternator enough to keep the injectors, timing pulses, and ECU running. :idunno:

The other thing is the battery acts like a big capacitor too, smoothing out the alternator pulses.

unik
12-17-2007, 10:07 PM
SikWan,
I think I am realy prehistoric.:thinking:
So far my "pixture" of fueling dizel:
separator, lower presure pump, fine filter, high presure pump, injectors.

You saing it should be a computer controled process:hmmm:
It is not a simple line of mechanics like Mr.Dizel made it?:crazy:

sikwan
12-17-2007, 10:27 PM
It is not a simple line of mechanics like Mr.Dizel made it?:crazy:

At least not anymore. The fuel tank pump is 12V. The injectors are not mechanical any more and there's a camshaft and crankshaft position sensor that uses hall effect sensors that tell the ECU when to fire the electronic injectors.

The high pressure pump though is mechanical if I remember correctly.

All the electricals doing mechanical work should take a toll on the battery somehow.

BULBASOR
12-17-2007, 10:47 PM
I dunno about that water on the 03. BULBASOR has a water trap built in for the fuels system and it's connected to the computer. If the water trap gets full of water, the computer puts a message on the dash to empty the water trap. They just did a routine draining of my water trap at the 20K maint interval. I would think 03Sprinters rig is similar to BULBASOR.

:popcorn:

Now what?

david_42
12-23-2007, 08:48 PM
There is another possibility. When you back off on the pedal, the injection system will shut off. IF you are above 1400 rpm, it should kick back in you press the pedal. When you hit 1400 rpm, it kicks back in anyway. If the rpm sensor or the oil pressure sensor is misbehaving or the relay sticks, the engine computer will think the engine is below idle speed & keep the fuel shut off. Cycling the key (which is a really bad idea while moving) or stopping & re-starting clears the problem.

BULBASOR
12-24-2007, 01:18 AM
One think for sure, the deisel motor in Sprinters will not just go by themselves without electricity anymore because the fuel flow is all electric.

That's kind of a drag, because diesel engines of the past created there own heat to start combustion and spark and electric were not necce3casary. It would ne nice if there was a NO ELECTRIC mode for the Sprinter.

aaronmagneeto
03-29-2010, 06:28 PM
My sprinter shuts down when i am idling, or driving, doesnt matter. its an 04. the check engine light comes on while still running, it coasts to a stop, then finally dies. engine code is a cyl 5 injector circ open, but it always starts right back up and will run fine for a few minutes til it happens again

lelandyoder84
12-04-2010, 04:06 AM
I have a 2002 sprinter that does the same thing yours does. It dies going down interstate. When I come to a stop I just cycle the key and it starts. I thought at first I had water in the fuel but I dont think that is the problem. I am just wondering what you got figured out with your sprinter and how you got it fixed?

mackconsult
12-04-2010, 05:05 AM
Try replacing your filter guys.

tnesc
12-04-2010, 01:41 PM
My sprinter shuts down when i am idling, or driving, doesnt matter. its an 04. the check engine light comes on while still running, it coasts to a stop, then finally dies. engine code is a cyl 5 injector circ open, but it always starts right back up and will run fine for a few minutes til it happens again

Had a similar issue and found the cause to be a wire shorting out in the engine harness. Do a visual inspection of the harness in the area of the fuel filter bracket and also follow harness going to the point were it passes thru into the passenger compartment just above the battery. Found that the harness rubs thru and shorts out injector and will shut engine down. Hope this helps you.

lelandyoder84
12-04-2010, 02:19 PM
The fuel filter was replaced about 2,000 to 3,000 miles ago. I will have to check the wiring harness. Any other suggestions on other things to check?

mackconsult
12-04-2010, 04:02 PM
Do you have a DAD?

lelandyoder84
12-04-2010, 05:24 PM
Ha Ha yep he is on his way over to help me now.