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sikwan
11-08-2006, 08:14 PM
This is from the service manual. I've verified that 2003 thru 2006 service manuals are very similar. I also used this chart to install a new deck in my 2006.

Please use a voltage/ohm meter to make sure the color coded wires are correct.


RED/YL Battery
BK/RD ACC
GY/DG/RD Light
BL/RD/WT Vehicle Speed Sensor
BK Power Antenna

BR/DG Front Left + (speaker)
BR Front Left - (speaker)
BK Front Right + (speaker)
BR/RD Front Right - (speaker)

WT/BL Rear Left + (speaker)
BR/BL Rear Left - (speaker)
WT/GY Rear Right + (speaker)
BR/GY Rear Right - (speaker)As a reference, here are the color codes used throughout the vehicle.


BL BLUE
BK BLACK
BR BROWN
DB DARK BLUE
DG DARK GREEN
GY GRAY
LB LIGHT BLUE
LG LIGHT GREEN
OR ORANGE
PK PINK
RD RED
TN TAN
VT VIOLET
WT WHITE
YL YELLOW
* WITH TRACER

topless
11-15-2006, 04:11 PM
A late model VW plug will let you leave the stock wiring and plug in, the only variance is you have to reverse the wires for switched power and battery.

nocky
11-17-2006, 03:58 AM
Thanks for the info I have a Sony mp3 player that I installed on week 2 of ownership. I put up with crummy radio reception for a long time. (2 years) I was told by some one that was because of the different type of antenna adapter you had to use. Anyway I just got done hooking up the black antenna wire (the pink one on the vw adapter). The Sony has a remote antenna lead Blue. WOW much better now. Even the sub sounds better. I ended up using rockford fosgate HPC1204 speakers in the front, some speakers have to big of a magnet
Thanks Again

sikwan
11-17-2006, 07:17 AM
Thanks Nocky for the connector picture. :rad:

When I was listening to my Panasonic, my AM stations would fade out every time I drove under an overpass. I don't remember ever having that same problem when I had the Becker. I blamed it on a lousy Panasonic tuner. :thumbdown:

I knew about the powered antenna and I remember hooking it up, but decided that I had to recheck it. Lo and behold, I hooked up the black antenna wire to the GND of the deck and the vehicle GND was bundled up with the rest of the unused wires. The deck still worked because it was using the cd changer GND. :bash:

After I moved the black wire to the remote turn on of the deck, my AM stations did not fade out like they use to. :thumbup:

Seek

ps. I think GND is the Brown wire right below the BLK/RED wire. Check it.

topless
11-17-2006, 05:52 PM
I changed out the Becker (made in South Africa) and the front speakers (made in Hungary) what a difference.
I'm not a big time stereo buff, but 3 radio presets and a crappy cassette deck for a head unit in a $40,000 truck is silly. When I bought my van, the battery had been disconnected, and the P.O.S. Becker had to have a security code entered before it would play. I didn't know where to find it, so I drove 3 hours with nothing. When I got it working, I was very disappointed in the quality of both the head unit and the speakers. Not what you'd expect for such an expensive vehicle.

fergetit2
01-31-2007, 11:19 PM
Just started converting the stock radio to an eclipse nav avn7000. Does anyone know what the blue wire is in position 11 (above the vehicle speed sensor)? Also has anyone found an antenna adapter?

MerlinB
02-01-2007, 02:03 AM
Don't know about the blue wire but, you can get an antenna adapter from Crutchfield Audio for 5 bucks.

Look here:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-4ytVtQmDbh2/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?I=12040vw12

mgameros
04-02-2007, 04:45 AM
So all I have to do it connect this black wire? I thought we needed this adapter CLICK HERE (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200041153595&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=010) Could I have used this CLICK HERE (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-PSCtXDRNjIM/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=119400&I=12040VW12) and connected the black wire? I'm lost here with this. If we do need the first adapter with the red wire, where does that connect to? Do we need to connect that to the power ant form the radio and not worry about the black wire on the factory harness? Please help!:thinking:

mgameros
04-02-2007, 05:24 AM
Don't know about the blue wire but, you can get an antenna adapter from Crutchfield Audio for 5 bucks.

Look here:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-4ytVtQmDbh2/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?I=12040vw12

Has anybody found out what this solid blue wire is for?

sikwan
04-02-2007, 04:45 PM
Has anybody found out what this solid blue wire is for?

This is from the 2006 service manual...

1515

According to this, it's A2 position K-TCM/RADIO. I looked at the 2003 manual pinout and it's no help.

Seek

mgameros
04-02-2007, 09:41 PM
So all I have to do it connect this black wire? I thought we needed this adapter CLICK HERE (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200041153595&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=010) Could I have used this CLICK HERE (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-PSCtXDRNjIM/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=119400&I=12040VW12) and connected the black wire? I'm lost here with this. If we do need the first adapter with the red wire, where does that connect to? Do we need to connect that to the power ant form the radio and not worry about the black wire on the factory harness? Please help!:thinking:


Any idea on this seek? :thinking:

sikwan
04-02-2007, 10:01 PM
So all I have to do it connect this black wire? I thought we needed this adapter CLICK HERE (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200041153595&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=010) Could I have used this CLICK HERE (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-PSCtXDRNjIM/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=119400&I=12040VW12) and connected the black wire? I'm lost here with this. If we do need the first adapter with the red wire, where does that connect to? Do we need to connect that to the power ant form the radio and not worry about the black wire on the factory harness? Please help!:thinking:
The black wire on the radio connector needs 12V to power the antenna. You can connect that to the "remote" output source from your new deck.

The Ebay adapter, I thought, was just a cable adapter. I don't know what the red wire is. I'm guessing it's for power, but for what? Did it come with instructions or a wiring diagram?

I read this from the Ebay auction...

It simply plugs into the back of the new radio and then your original Antenna wire plugs into this adapter.
...and I thought it was just a cable adapter. I'm using something similar except it does not have the red wire (power?).

You are correct on the Crutchfield adapter. All you really need is that adapter for the antenna. After that, you just need to hook the black line to your "remote" output of your new deck.

Sorry if I mislead you to buy the Ebay cable. I didn't know Crutchfield had such an adapter. I bought mine locally at a Fry's Electronics.

Seek

dsellsbear
04-19-2008, 04:02 AM
I have two brown wires and can't figure out which one goes where. I pulled the stock cassette deck out and am installing a blue tooth pioneer deh790. Any suggestions? should I clean the wire casing to see if there is another color that I'm missing?
Also, does radioshack sell the antenna adapter?

sikwan
04-19-2008, 06:15 AM
Do you have a multimeter (ohm meter) to measure the browns?

dsellsbear
04-19-2008, 05:05 PM
I'm on my way to get one right now. What should I look for when testing the browns and for that matter the two blacks as well?
I'm also going to check out the antenna adapter they carry.
Thanks

dsellsbear
04-19-2008, 07:07 PM
Radio Shack doesn't have the antenna adapter. It seems as if it is absolutely necessary? I just paid $22 for the f...ing adapter from Crutchfield so that I can have it sometime this century.
Got the multi-meter though and going to figure out which browns are which and which blacks are which.

sikwan
04-19-2008, 09:59 PM
Check the browns to see if any of them are connected to GND (ohm or diode setting for continuity measurement) or 12V (DC setting).

If none of the above, you could verify if the wire is connected to one of the speakers. What you're really doing is to just look for the wires that you need for your deck. You may not even need the brown wires, but since you have a meter now you can do your checks.

Don't worry about the adapter. I think that's how much I paid for mine from I think Crutchfield. After I bought it, I found it at half th price at a local Fry's Electronics.

kmessinger
04-25-2008, 11:05 PM
Got the radio pulled but the harness is a total surprise. It has only 9 wires. Three look like 20 gauge, one is yellow/black, two browns. Then I have what looks to be about 18 gauge and one is brown, one is red black, one brown/orange, one brown/blue, one brown/purple and one brown/green.

The stripped ones are speaker wires. There are only 4 yet I have at least 4 speakers, maybe a 5th in the center of the dashboard near the windshield.

The yellow/black seems to be ground. The red/black is hot and I would think from the battery. The 18 gauge brown is also hot even though the key is out - I thought that was the acc/hot.

The 2 20gauge brown wires are also hot.

The antenna wire is black and the connector on the end is more like tv cable (once I knew the names of these things!). It is hot. I assume from posts here it goes to the power antenna lead on the radio. Then nothing plugs into the new radios antenna connection?

So am I on the right track? Should I connect 8 speaker wires from the new radio to the 4 speaker wire on the harness?
I will ignore the 20 gauge hot wires. Connect the the ground to ground (black/yellow). Hot 18 gauge (brown and brown/orange to acc and bat on the new radio. Connect antenna to the antenna remote on the new radio.

Then I will do the smoke test.

Thanks,
Keith

sikwan
04-26-2008, 03:37 AM
This thread is for the T1N, so whatever you find will not reflect what is found here.

narunas
08-06-2008, 02:35 PM
SO I took out my Sound 30 CD radio and installed Alpine iDA-X100 - a radio that has no moving parts, except a knob.
I took advice found here, got myself a late VW adapter to match the connector in the van, got the antenna adapter thingy and spend a few hours leisurely installing the new radio. iPod/USB devices will have to sit in the glove compartment.

All works very well - this thread is absolutely essential if anyone wants to change the Sprinter radio on their own! Thanks all!
All I can add to this - take your time looking over the connectors and matching the input/outputs - I did use a voltmeter.

Next to go are the crappy speakers in the front, - 5" are they? I am about to install a complete new "house" battery system with a 30 amp inverter/charger, with a D4 sized AMG battery that I will have to build a box for near the rear axle. Audio amp will be powered by that.

Will keep everyone posted on progress and anything else I can find...

2005 SHC 140" - 60K
Narunas

mbcruiser
08-06-2008, 10:49 PM
good show!

The dash speakers are 4".
I replaced mine with Blaupunkt PCxb402 2-way 4" speakers from Crutchfield.com (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-wPKvRzN6DvG/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=51200&tab=morephotos&pi=1&i=023PCXB402&display=L#Tab)
At the time they were less than $30/pair but now appear to be discontinued.
The sound is improved, but I added 6.5" speakers on door mounted pods (http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1148&highlight=speaker+pod) and the difference is significant vs. the OEM dash units only.

The dash speaker replacement project took 10 minutes per side......
Per other posts, 3 of the 4 metal tabs of the PCxb402's did require
trimming (with a pair of small tinsnips) them to make them fit
properly, but no problem doing it. Each speaker fit perfectly in the
hole & the 4th tab slipped under some of the plastic dash trim. Even
the wiring tabs were foolproof replacements. I wouldn't hesitate in
using 4" speakers in Sprinter dash.

Taking off the window "A" Pillar was simple and easy (just pull it straight off). The screens that cover the dash speakers just lift off without any problem. The speaker also pops out without any screws.

narunas
08-07-2008, 05:01 PM
Thanks for the speaker suggestions -
Did you try to put in the different radio player/control? I did end-up literally taking the whole dash apart, just to run the wiring and the USB cable to the amp which will sit under the passenger seat. This was a "monster" undertaking - but all done.

will look for quality speakers, will also get another pair and try to bridge the radio outputs to only power the "front" - the back will be bridged at the amp to only power the "rear" - not sure if this is possible - but will attempt.

Narunas

mbcruiser
08-07-2008, 08:06 PM
Didn't change out radio - still playing with the OEM Becker Sound 30.
I did install the mini connector to play my mp3 & ipod players via the AUX setting. They work fine.
I once toyed with the idea of adding a Kenwood self-powered woofer unit (excellent instructions found elsewhere on this forum) as next priority, but so far, doing fine without it.
I don't expect concert hall realism, so the Sound 30, replacement 4" dash speakers, and door mounted 6.5" speakers are acceptable (at minimal cost) for the use I make of the cruiser.

Ogre
09-02-2008, 03:10 AM
A late model VW plug will let you leave the stock wiring and plug in, the only variance is you have to reverse the wires for switched power and battery.

Thanks for the tip. Now my radio can finally not loose all its presets when I shut the truck off.

CraigRK
08-31-2009, 06:48 PM
Thanks for the above, I have been able to wire in some replacement ISO plugs as the Ambulance tech's had hacked them out.

The problem I have though is that as my vehicle is a '98 pre-CDI 412D T1N the following:


BL/RD/WT Vehicle Speed Sensor


does not exist. I've been told that one of the wires in the dash multi-plugs is a speed sensor wire, but I need to confirm which one.

Thanks,
Craig

312 diesel (closed)
08-31-2009, 09:13 PM
Told you that already.....


Thanks for the above, I have been able to wire in some replacement ISO plugs as the Ambulance tech's had hacked them out.

The problem I have though is that as my vehicle is a '98 pre-CDI 412D T1N the following:



does not exist. I've been told that one of the wires in the dash multi-plugs is a speed sensor wire, but I need to confirm which one.

Thanks,
Craig

Hoppingmad
09-01-2009, 01:06 AM
Speed sensor wire?
They have a speed sensor on goldwings, turns the radio up louder the faster you go. Not on mine though.
And if my sprinter has it, it doesn't work
Replacing the sound 10 on my want list.

312 diesel (closed)
09-01-2009, 01:14 AM
Speed sensor wire?
They have a speed sensor on goldwings, turns the radio up louder the faster you go. Not on mine though.
And if my sprinter has it, it doesn't work
Replacing the sound 10 on my want list.

It's for the navigation, original or after market. A speed signal enables it to accurately plot its way through tunnels and the like. It just piggy backs off the speedo.

CraigRK
09-01-2009, 06:58 AM
Told you that already.....

Yep, it was you I was referring to below, thanks,
I've been told that one of the wires in the dash multi-plugs is a speed sensor wire, but I need to confirm which one.

On checking all the wires it seems there is only one twisted pair, but the two wires are brown and white. I'm trying to find out which of the two before I go hacking into them and wrecking something. I'm on the verge of guessing white (assuming Brown is earth).

Cheers,
Craig

312 diesel (closed)
09-01-2009, 09:56 AM
It's the white on the twisted pair.


Yep, it was you I was referring to below, thanks,


On checking all the wires it seems there is only one twisted pair, but the two wires are brown and white. I'm trying to find out which of the two before I go hacking into them and wrecking something. I'm on the verge of guessing white (assuming Brown is earth).

Cheers,
Craig

Type2Teach
03-07-2011, 04:20 PM
Re-opening this thread because I can't figure out what my wiring problem is.
'02 140" 10 pass with 88k miles
When I got the van a few months ago, the radio wouldn't work AT ALL. It wasn't just locked out with the security code. I got the code and no matter what I did, nothing worked. So i bought a new stereo and ordered the vw adapter plug. I kept loosing my presets and I just now found out you have to switch the 12v and ign wires. :clapping:
Now that I switched them, though, whenever I open any of my doors, my radio turns off. It turns back on when I close the door, same station and all. :idunno:
I'm also getting THREE volts at the 12v battery wire. I have no idea why this is so. :idunno:
I checked the radio fuse and that's fine. Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Joel in Philly

sikwan
03-07-2011, 04:38 PM
Joel, I would forget about the wiring diagram that I listed and start probing the wires for constant 12V (Battery) and switched 12V (ACC). This is the only way to do it right.

autostaretx
03-07-2011, 06:28 PM
Here are the radio pages from the 2003 Service Manual. Your mileage may differ:
31007

31008

31009

31010

Pinout list:
31011

good luck
--dick

Avards
05-05-2011, 01:43 AM
Folks:

I'm about to change out my Sound 30 in a 2008 Sprinter to a Kenwood. Have gotten everything from Crutchfield, but have some doubts about the wiring adapter.

Saw the color coding for the wiring harness posted for a 2006 here, but am wondering if anyone has the one for the 2008. This particular vehicle also has the steering wheel controls for the radio.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Avards

sikwan
05-05-2011, 02:23 AM
I'm about to change out my Sound 30 in a 2008 Sprinter to a Kenwood. Have gotten everything from Crutchfield, but have some doubts about the wiring adapter.

You need to look in the NCV3 section. Even if you found a wiring diagram, I would still ohm out the connections.

robbieG
07-04-2011, 06:10 AM
so i just installed an aftermarket radio with HD radio and did some custom stuff.

First off there are some things you need to before you start:

radio bezel that fits the Sound 30 spot
European antenna to Conventional antenna adapter
Wire harness that converts the Sprinter to conventional

Things that needed special attention:

The wire harness that everyone sells needs the red and yellow wire switched in the big end of the connector.

In the big connector are two blue wires that are taped together and have the same function. Use the one that corresponds to the Antenna Booster Cavity 13 in the repair instructions.


After I wired it all together I realized that I liked having the radio on with the key off like the sound 30 so what I did was I spliced power from the yellow B+ wire and ran it into a switch on the dash and then ran the switch into the red wire that feeds the radio. Now when the key if off I can turn on the radio manually with a switch.

If you go through the wire harness diagrams you will see that the Radio and the Central Timer run on the same circuit. I didn't want any interference with the two so I put a 6Amp diode on the red lead up stream from my splice from the switch because I didn't want to power the Central Timer backwards.

Now I have radio with the key on or off. I just hit the switch on the dash in the morning and turn it off at night. No more key!

Kubbie
01-23-2012, 11:58 PM
Hi,
1st post here. Just picked up an '06 T1N, 83,000 miles, 1st time Sprinter (and Diesel) owner.
Doing some reading to learn up, but the Sound 30 has to go...

Here is my harness, need to pull out the tester to figure out what the wires are:
I know rights side #1 through #8 are speakers, I just have the front #3, #4, #5, and #6 used

On the left side, I just have #3 empty

#1 Blue, red stripe, white dashes
#2 Blue
#3 Empty
#4 Red, yellow stripe
#5 Black
#6 Gray, green stripe, red dashes
#7 Black, red stripe
#8 Brown

http://hotimg23.fotki.com/a/64_53/165_42/20120123_170031_605-vi.jpg

Here is a shot of the wires:

http://hotimg23.fotki.com/a/64_53/165_42/20120123_170310_376-vi.jpg

I have not read though all the threads, are all these wires already identified somewhere?

Colorado_Al
01-24-2012, 12:42 AM
I would buy a wiring harness adapter instead of clipping out the existing one:
http://www.metraonline.com/part/70-9401
I think this is the one you need
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I2T4G6

Or this:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120701784/Receiver-Wire-Harness.html?tp=2977
Also, I think you will need to reverse the power wires in this one (12v switched and 12v constant)

And antenna adapter:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_12040VW12/Antenna-Adapter.html?tp=2569

Kubbie
01-24-2012, 01:26 AM
I would buy a wiring harness adapter instead of clipping out the existing one:
http://www.metraonline.com/part/70-9401
I think this is the one you need
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I2T4G6

Or this:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120701784/Receiver-Wire-Harness.html?tp=2977
Also, I think you will need to reverse the power wires in this one (12v switched and 12v constant)

And antenna adapter:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_12040VW12/Antenna-Adapter.html?tp=2569


I have both the harness adapter and antenna adapter.
I just need to wire the adapter the the new radio harness, thus need to know what is coming out of the van.... Time to bundle up and take the tester out...

Colorado_Al
01-24-2012, 02:27 AM
The wiring harness and radio harness adapter should be labeled. Just match them up to each other and solder them together. Then plug in the adapter. Done. No measuring required.

If you still need the pin outs for some reason, here they are

Kubbie
01-24-2012, 04:46 AM
The wiring harness and radio harness adapter should be labeled. Just match them up to each other and solder them together. Then plug in the adapter. Done. No measuring required.

If you still need the pin outs for some reason, here they are

Thanks! I was over-thinking this. Just came in from outside and happy it's all done. World of difference in the sound.
And a Piece of cake! Bought a Sony CDX-GT700HD (http://www.amazon.com/Sony-CDX-GT700HD--Dash-Receiver-Player/dp/B0032FOJOS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1327380318&sr=8-1) (Got it soldered and heat shrink on all connections, a few zip ties to make it tidy, tucked it in and installed. Oh, and threw in the Walmart $24 4" Vr3's for giggles)

http://hotimg23.fotki.com/a/64_53/165_42/20120123_220245_608-vi.jpg


I didn't unpack the new Sony until after my previous post, and all the colors on the Sony harness matched up exactly to the adapter harness. (I did double check them just to be sure.)

All I changed was to switch the red and yellow, as the Sprinter's 12+ constant and ACC keyed are reversed.


Thanks again.

PS. Next projects - rear view camera, powered sub, maybe some door pods for 6.5 drivers and some tweets, figure out why my fan only blows on speed 4, adjust sliding doors so it closes 1st try, and try changing the glow plugs if they are not seized up!)

kkanuck
08-07-2012, 05:39 PM
Is this the wrong adapter, and there is a separate power antenna hidden behind the roof panel that has a lead in the power loom and that is what one connects the power antenna lead from an aftermarket stereo?

My reception sucks and I think I may have the wrong part, and need only the head converter not this powered version with head converter?

Cheers

Dingo
08-09-2012, 08:25 AM
Rubbish radio reception in sprinters is down to a crap aerial & lead assembly .
Replace the aerial & make sure you have a good earth bond for the aerials base as this will affect your reception badly .

I ran an additonal earth wire ( ground , for the over seas boys ) along the aerial lead , soldered the end going under the aerial clamp & fitted a crimp terminal to the radio end . found a good earth (ground ) point behind dash & cleaned that of any dirt & paint , fitted earth (ground ) lead

Now i can get FM stations on Saturn , whereas before i was not able to listen to my local station 6 miles away with no interferrence interfearnace interf ... CRACKLING or WHINING

While you are at it fit a heavy cable from the same earth(ground ) point to your radio body , also kills RFI . Used to work on military motors , everything was fitted with earth straps to electrically bond all parts & reduce / eliminate trouble . The FFR ( fitted for Radio ) motors were a nightmare of copper braids , welder type earth leads , shields , cables running in giant copper braid shrouds that looked like aeroquip hoses on steroids with screw fitting like hydraulic couplings

hulagun
08-10-2012, 06:59 AM
Rubbish radio reception in sprinters is down to a crap aerial & lead assembly...

Translation for us Yanks: poor antenna ground causes poor radio reception. :bash:

Only posting so this thread will turn up later when I do a search for tips on installing a new stereo / radio ... :thumbup: cuz you know I will forget...

hulagun
08-10-2012, 07:04 AM
PS. Next projects - rear view camera, powered sub, maybe some door pods for 6.5 drivers and some tweets, figure out why my fan only blows on speed 4, adjust sliding doors so it closes 1st try, and try changing the glow plugs if they are not seized up!)

Replace the fan resistor... cheap thrills! online about $25.

Remove the sliding door step molding (5 capped screws, easy) and clean out all the sand, gravel, spare change, dead leaves, fur balls, and gum wrappers that are clogging the lower roller track up.

Sorry, can't help with the glow plugs... :smilewink:

PS - let me know where to find door speaker pods that won't interfere with my window cranks.

kkanuck
08-11-2012, 07:51 AM
I'm trying to determine if this is the factory amp for the antenna, or is this an after market one, and the factory one is located elsewhere seeing as this is just behind the radio and looking like above pic.

Thanks much for the grounding tips!!



Cheers

hulagun
08-17-2012, 06:20 PM
Hi! Can I get some advice from you audiophiles? :bow:

I have in hand my new JVC bluetooth-capable (for hands free calling) tuner head unit, matching JVC 4" 3-way speakers, all needed adapter parts,etc (thanks to the prior posters on this thread) but need some clarification before dismantling the dash to install it all.

1 - All I changed was to switch the red and yellow, as the Sprinter's 12+ constant and ACC keyed are reversed.

Is the R/Y wire the one being switched? What is it switched to? Or is it being swapped with the BK/R wire?

2 - I would like to be able to use the radio/phone/etc with the key out, can this be done somehow without adding a resistor? If that's a necessary precaution, what resistor is best to use... IOW is there a Radio Shack part number that I can just go get?

3 - I'd also like to fit a dash-panel flashing "alarm LED" that activates whenever the key is switched off and removed. If needed I'll wire it through a toggle switch. Is there a wire in the dash harness that is ONLY powered (or earthed/grounded ) with the key off, that can be tapped into to activate my LED?

4 - My van has manual crank windows, so the cab door panels may not be suitable for speakers (unless the speakers would work OK lower on the door). I'm assuming I'll have to mount boxed speakers somewhere farther back, high in the cargo area. I want to install the wires now so I can just add speakers later on. What is the best pathway to run the wires from the radio?

5 - While I have my whole dash apart, should I plan for and include any other wires in the speaker wire routing bundle? I can only foresee a need in the near future for adding some cargo area LED worklamps and a 12 volt power outlet or two. (Assume any such 12v would likely be sourced under the drivers seat and routed along the floor). I just have a feeling that I am forgetting something I may want wires for later on.

6 - any advice on placement and wire routing of the radio's hands free microphone would be appreciated.

7 - I can buy OEM MB dash toggle switches from Berry, but is there a part number or source for the connector plug that fits the back of the OEM toggle switches?

Thanks in advance.

hulagun
08-18-2012, 03:41 AM
This link http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=86151&highlight=hands+free+microphone#post86151 answered a couple of the questions (in my last post).

And these helpful links talk about radio antenna upgrades and wire routing

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5896

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19492&highlight=antenna

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8835&highlight=antenna

:cheers:

hulagun
08-25-2012, 03:11 AM
Some questions

- to be able to use the radio with the key out, what wires get switched on the DIN plug? is an inline resistor then needed? If so, what resistor?

- Is there a wire in the dash harness that is ONLY 12v + powered (or conversely - earthed/grounded ) with the key turned to OFF?

- is there a source for harness connector plugs that fit the back of the OEM dash toggle switches?

Thx in advance.

sam1am
04-02-2013, 05:42 PM
Wiring harness: http://amzn.com/B000I2T4G6

DIN kit: http://amzn.com/B0015C1VDW

hein
06-25-2013, 08:02 PM
If you don't have rear speakers then your plug won't have pins or wires for them.
You can buy this plug and rob the connectors out of it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360624970758

longboarder63
08-28-2013, 08:43 PM
A late model VW plug will let you leave the stock wiring and plug in, the only variance is you have to reverse the wires for switched power and battery.

So glad you posted this about the VW harness. That was my only option at Fry's last night and I went ahead with it based on your recommendation. It is true you have to swap Battery and ACC but that's the only change I could see. Worked great. I used the Turbowire harness for an older model VW, I think it was this one
http://www.metraonline.com/part/70-1784

Haasman
11-27-2013, 02:45 AM
Reading and studying this thread. I need to route wires from the radio head down through the dash for rear speakers since the factory plug didn't come with rear speaker wires/connector (I have a 2005 chassis).

I see that the radio harness (facing forward, looking at the radio area) goes down to the right into the dash, but from there I can seem to find it.

I want to route wires down into the dash but I am lost.

Any explanations, suggestions and ideally pictures would greatly be appreciated.

Haasman