Installing propane gas line questions

[lzcamper]

I'm at a point now in my DIY '06 Sprinter camper where I need to install the propane lines under the van. The propane tank is installed under the floor just behind the sliding door. I plan to install a 2 stage regulator and run a 3/8" copper line to my stove, refrigerator, and furnace. The stove is above the tank. The refrigerator and furnace are on the driver's side. A line needs to be run to the other side of the van. Do you think that the line could be routed directly across the van? It would be fastened on the underside of the floor and would run a few inches above the exhaust pipe and drive shaft. I looked at a friend's older Dodge commercial conversion and the line was routed to the back of the van where it crossed over behind everything and then ran up to the other side. For those of you that have a commercial Sprinter conversions, "What route do your gas lines follow?" Any information would be very helpful. Thanks!

Rick

[cedarsanctum]

My 2cents, for all that's worth, i'd keep those lines away from any possible moving parts, such as drivelines, that can come loose.
Watched a gasoline tanker full of fuel burn up on the freeway because it lost a driveline.

Jef

[mobileoilchange]

why not use the propane to feed your sprinter!
it will boost your HP and TQ
just like NOS.

[BaywoodBill]

I'll look under mine and report. I know the propane tank on mine is on the driver's side and the stove is on the passenger's side.

[BaywoodBill]

The line goes from the tank to the rear and then crosses over above the exhaust and driveshaft just in front of the rear wheels. It's a rigid pipe to the point where it heads off to the other side and then it's flexible. It's attached to the underside of the van.

[lzcamper]

Jef, you bring up a good point. I think that turning off the propane tank while traveling would eliminate that problem. My fridge is a 3-way, so I can use DC to maintain the temperature from one destination to the next.

Mobileoilchange, my Sprinter would like to become a vegetarian, but there's no produce stations in my area. The other day, I talked to a supplier of B fuel that supplies 55 gallon drums of fuel to the consumer (for autos, properly taxed) and he said that at the present time there are only 2 stations in the Los Angeles area that dispense B fuel at a gas station. :thinking: The further you travel from this area, the more B fuel stations you have to choose from. I'm hoping that things will change ... soon!

Baywood Bill. Thanks for the info. It seems that wherever you run the pipe (to get it from one side to the other), there are moving parts and the exhaust pipe to contend with. If the propane pipe is routed past the wheel well, then it's very close to the rear suspension. I guess that the reason it crosses over in front of the rear wheels is to avoid the active suspension. Is there any insulation around the pipe where it passes over the exhaust?

Does any one else have information on commercial routing of propane pipes in a van?



Rick

[BaywoodBill]

Rick, I can't teel if there is insulation. The underside is all sprayed with some tar-like undercoating and I don't like to poke around with my fingers. But the exhaust is hanging some inches below the floor and it held in place by a rubber-dampened clamp behind the rear wheel. And maybe the pipe isn't so all-fired hot back where this piping crosses.

[pugwash]

I havent fitted gas to my van yet but I think you would be better keeping it away from any exhaust if it breaks it might rip it off.you know how you see exhausts lying on the roadside.
question you say your bottle is under the van where are you fitting the regulaters remember its not a good idea to have liquid gas coming through the line to your gas stove etc I believe the regulaters are supposed to be above the valve on the cylinder not below or same level.

[lzcamper]

Baywood Bill, the propane line has to be near the exhaust at some location, and like you said, the exhaust pipe should be cooler near the rear of the van.

Pugwash, the regulator will be fastened to the frame about 4" to 6" higher than the output valve which is on the side of the propane tank. A flexible line will be run from the output to the regulator and then solid lines will be run under the van to the appliance locations.

It's difficult (if not impossible) to find a path that lacks some kind of potential hazard. If the lines are run to the rear, they will be near shocks and springs (that are constantly moving) and tires (which could blow and rupture a line). If the lines are run in front of the rear wheels to avoid the suspension and tires, they cross over an exhaust pipe and a drive shaft that could break. What a dilemma! The next camper I build will have all of the propane appliances and the supply tank on the same side or I'll install an electric refrigerator.

A propane line under the van should not be a problem if the propane tank valve is closed while traveling.

Rick

[cedarsanctum]

A propane line under the van should not be a problem if the propane tank valve is closed while traveling.

Rick

Ultimately, that's your best bet. Turn off the gas every time you drive. Safer anyway.

And maybe consider a solar power system for the fridge. Mine works Great, never will use gas for refrigeration. It would work with the system you've got.
more :2cents:

Jef

[lzcamper]

My refrigerator is a 3-way, and because of its cooling system (absorption rather than condenser) is not very efficient on DC. A friend just bought an Engel electric refrigerator. With 2 house batteries (200 aH and no solar panels), he has camped without hookups for 4-5 days. My 3-way refrigerator (when run on DC only) would last 1 day under the same circumstances. If I hadn't already purchased the 3-way and cut holes in the side of my van for the vents, I'd purchase an Engel. Right now, I'll proceed with my original plan and hook up the propane. My goal is to build a camper that will last 7 days without hookups.

Rick

[artistwantab]

I am sorry if this is an ignorant question but why not run the line straight up and then under the floor board?

Also, can anyone point me to installation pictures of a propane tank under a spinter van?

[dronsin]

Just a comment about piping for LPG. Copper is important to mount securely to prevent vibration and potential cracking. Copper work hardens and the wall thickness is important - as specified in California RV/Mobile home construction criteria. Today, I think I would opt for convoluted Stainless Steel tubing for this critical line, and maybe even put it inside a clear tubing to act as a conduit and damper.

The idea of using a shut off valve as is on many systems for vapor detectors makes it easy to have a way to isolate gas at the tank while on the road/running.

Dale

[jls]

I would also like to see pictures of how the propane tank is mounted under the floor or any suggestions. Thanks

[Douglas Hicks]

There are rubber grommets available to isolate any vibration in the fuel lines. I do not know what problems you might run into with the convoluted S/S lines. Do not splice short lengths of that. Long lengths are available, and can be made by most plumbing/gas shops. But, I do not know if those lines are listed for mobile applications. Steel tubing is also a possiblility. You will need to buy/rent a double flaring tool. My double flaring tool was about $60.00. Propane shops can also make rubber hoses. Do a search for Asco gas valves, I think they have low voltage gas solenoids available.

[Aqua Puttana]

They don't make fuel tanks for boat/marine applications out of stainless steel because it is known to crack. I don't know the regulations for vehicles, but if hose meets the regulations that's the way I'd go. It will be easier to install, has flexibility and will last. That said, the hoses should be fabricated by a properly equipped shop and knowledgeable person. Hope this does some good.

[pugwash]

if you check with a motorhome or caravan outlet im sure that you are only allowed 1mtre of rubber hose the rest must be steel or copper I had mine installed recently for water heater, fridge and cooker. take a look at tanks for LPG conversions they are apparently legal to use (in the UK) remeber you must drill a 45 mm hole beside each gas fired item to allow any gas to escape if a pipe burst's as gas is heavier than air then you can get vent covers and fine mes to stop the beasties getting in. (you dont want to get gassed when you are sleeping.and water is not a problem unless you are going to be driving in a river.

[BaywoodBill]

I would also like to see pictures of how the propane tank is mounted under the floor or any suggestions. Thanks


Today I was looking at the propane tank. There's undercoating sprayed that hides the mounting details.