Anyone else have Transmission problems??

[VanDiesel]

Started van this morning (37 degrees F), engine turned over fine. Put van in Reverse- nothing happened, selected Drive still nothing. ( checked emergency brake although I never use - was OFF). Felt like transmission was not engaging, engine would rev but no response in motion- After a minute or so developed some response - tried to move van out of the way to use other car. After 5th or 6th move in reverse or drive,:thinking: it HEALED itself and I drove it to work. Seemed fine on the road. Any others with same problem?
2007 diesel high roof wagon - 2300 miles so far.

[SprinterUSA1]

Started van this morning (37 degrees F), engine turned over fine. Put van in Reverse- nothing happened, selected Drive still nothing. ( checked emergency brake although I never use - was OFF). Felt like transmission was not engaging, engine would rev but no response in motion- After a minute or so developed some response - tried to move van out of the way to use other car. After 5th or 6th move in reverse or drive,:thinking: it HEALED itself and I drove it to work. Seemed fine on the road. Any others with same problem?
2007 diesel high roof wagon - 2300 miles so far.


We have had temperatures well below thirty and never had such problem. It needs a warm up phase for oil pressure and temperature to build up otherwise it just does not like to accelerate or shift smoothly.


SprinterUSA1

[contractor]

I have not experienced this problem. Check your oil level if you haven't done so yet. May possibly be a sticking valve ... what's the mileage?

[SprinterUSA1]

.......... what's the mileage?

............ - 2300 miles so far.


SprinterUSA1

[Don Horner]

Mine, of course, is a T1N, not an NCV3, but maybe there's something in my experience that will ring a bell.

At some point or another, I've had a host or weird problems with the transmission. Believe it or not, I experienced the cold weather slippage you describe just a few weeks ago, when temperatures here in Florida got down to about 39 degrees F overnight. It would not move until I let it warm up, then it was back to normal.

At other times I have had it slip into neutral while going down the road -- both in the city and on an interstate highway. It restores itself and comes back to completely normal operation when I slow down to under 30 MPH.

Several times it has gone into Limp Home Mode without warning or provocation, which with the transmission involves locking itself into 2nd gear. Twice when locking up it has turned on the "check engine" light and thrown a code, which my scan guage identified as a P0730, which translates to "incorrect gear ratio". I have no earthly idea what that means.

I also have the Rumble Strip Noise, but only rarely and quietly. I have had start off Shudder several times, usually right before it slips into neutral.

I had no problems in the first 20,000 miles, so I haven't talked to the service folks about this, yet. It started at about 21,000 miles. I bought a dip stick and a couple of quarts of the magic expensive Chrysler tranny goo. I added about 6 ounces and the problems went away for quite a while. I'm approaching 30,000 miles, and they have been gradually coming back.

I actually have an appointment with the Dodge dealer tomorrow morning (Wed 1/2/08) for my 30,000 mile service, and I'll be going over this whole tranny sequence with the tech. It will be interesting, because my local Dodge dealer just started handling Sprinters this year, and I don't think they've had many '04-'05 models to service. The service manager said they have hired a very experienced tech for the Sprinters; I guess I'll find out, tomorrow.

With the problems I have been having, I can almost guarantee I have the famous slow leak at the electrical connection O-rings. I may request a full fluid change at 30K instead of the 40K recommended here, just to get a fresh start after they find and fix the leak.

[talkinghorse43]

Started van this morning (37 degrees F), engine turned over fine. Put van in Reverse- nothing happened, selected Drive still nothing. ( checked emergency brake although I never use - was OFF). Felt like transmission was not engaging, engine would rev but no response in motion- After a minute or so developed some response - tried to move van out of the way to use other car. After 5th or 6th move in reverse or drive,:thinking: it HEALED itself and I drove it to work. Seemed fine on the road. Any others with same problem?
2007 diesel high roof wagon - 2300 miles so far.

'03 service manual says for the condition described as: DELAYED ENGAGEMENT, NO TRANSFER OF POWER IN R AND/OR D, ALSO AT TIMES, the possible causes and fixes are:1. Oil Level Too Low. 1. Check Oil Level. Add if
Necessary.
2. Recognition Switch - Selector
Lever Position.
2. Replace Recognition Switch
Only When Intermediate
Position or Fault is Indicated.
3. Oil Filter Not Installed. 3. Install Oil Filter.
4. AEV, Delayed Pressure Build Up
On Piston B2/B3.
4. Install New Shifting
Procedure (TCM,
electrohydraulic control unit or
repair set).
5. Wrong Combination TCM/
Electrohydraulic Control Unit.
5. Check Combination
TCM/Electrohydraulic Control
Unit. Replace TCM Resp.
Electrohydraulic Control Unit, if
necessary.

I think the most likely is low fluid level since the fluid level is lowest when cold.

[sikwan]

There's a TSB on this in the NCV3 Database section...

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1965

[abittenbinder]

If fluid level is low -air bubbles can cause delay of pressure build-up in control circuits. Have this checked by dealer. Doktor A

[hp2owner]

Started van this morning (37 degrees F), engine turned over fine. Put van in Reverse- nothing happened, selected Drive still nothing. ( checked emergency brake although I never use - was OFF). Felt like transmission was not engaging, engine would rev but no response in motion- After a minute or so developed some response - tried to move van out of the way to use other car. After 5th or 6th move in reverse or drive,:thinking: it HEALED itself and I drove it to work. Seemed fine on the road. Any others with same problem?
2007 diesel high roof wagon - 2300 miles so far.

My 2007 ( 12000 mikes ) did the same thing last week camping out in the desert. No traction in reverse or drive ( also tried shifting to 1, 2 3 or 4 ) after starting in the am with night time temps in 30's. I was parked on a grass hill and finally was able to get it to roll down the hill back to pavement. A few minutes on the road no issues. Wierd !

[abittenbinder]

Mine, of course, is a T1N, not an NCV3, but maybe there's something in my experience that will ring a bell.

At other times I have had it slip into neutral while going down the road -- both in the city and on an interstate highway. It restores itself and comes back to completely normal operation when I slow down to under 30 MPH.

Several times it has gone into Limp Home Mode without warning or provocation, which with the transmission involves locking itself into 2nd gear. Twice when locking up it has turned on the "check engine" light and thrown a code, which my scan guage identified as a P0730, which translates to "incorrect gear ratio". I have no earthly idea what that means.

I also have the Rumble Strip Noise, but only rarely and quietly. I have had start off Shudder several times, usually right before it slips into neutral.


"Improper ratio" is the official DRBIII label of the scan gauge code you interpreted as- incorrect gear ratio. This occurs when the TCM encounters shaft speed, engine speed and vehicle speed data that don't match the gear ratio it has selected and expects the transmission to be in. Improper ratio, engine overspeed, and transmission input sensor overspeed can all lead to loss of drive("slip into neutral" as you call it). I am working on and will be posting a tech alert later this week to address a possible cause of some of these transmission glitches. Doktor A

[Don Horner]

"Improper ratio" is the official DRBIII label of the scan gauge code you interpreted as- incorrect gear ratio. This occurs when the TCM encounters shaft speed, engine speed and vehicle speed data that don't match the gear ratio it has selected and expects the transmission to be in. Improper ratio, engine overspeed, and transmission input sensor overspeed can all lead to loss of drive("slip into neutral" as you call it). I am working on and will be posting a tech alert later this week to address a possible cause of some of these transmission glitches. Doktor AI'll look forward to it. It's at the dealer as I write. I got a brief, initial report from the service writer -- their scanner (StarScan?) found 5 other codes that ScanGuage did not read -- I don't have a detailed report yet, but they promise to track them all down.

I could almost predict when it would experience "loss of drive" -- if I was just a tiny bit heavy on the throttle from a standing start, got up to about 40 mph, and then had to back off the throttle due to traffic in front -- it would lose motivation. A couple of times, it did it as even faster speeds, one on the Interstate at about 60 mph -- when I backed off the throttle. I'm pretty gentle with the throttle pedal, but anything other than driving as if it had an egg shell under the pedal would cause it to drop out or lock up.

Your comments about overspeed make sense -- it feels like the sensor is lagging a bit in reading the actual RPM after I back out of the throttle -- the sensors seem to think I'm still at 1800 or whatever, when it's actually dropped already, and are calling that an overspeed.

I did go ahead an order a transmission flush and refill, just to be be on the safe side. They also did find the leak, and are installing a new connector. They gave me a rental car, so I'm home right now, and will get all the details when I pick it up.

Vehicle has a 2004 VIN, is titled as a 2005 Leisure Travel, has been on the road a little over 3 years, and had 31,047 miles when I took it in this morning.

[abittenbinder]

I'll look forward to it. It's at the dealer as I write. I got a brief, initial report from the service writer -- their scanner (StarScan?) found 5 other codes that ScanGuage did not read -- I don't have a detailed report yet, but they promise to track them all down.

I could almost predict when it would experience "loss of drive" -- if I was just a tiny bit heavy on the throttle from a standing start, got up to about 40 mph, and then had to back off the throttle due to traffic in front -- it would lose motivation. A couple of times, it did it as even faster speeds, one on the Interstate at about 60 mph -- when I backed off the throttle. I'm pretty gentle with the throttle pedal, but anything other than driving as if it had an egg shell under the pedal would cause it to drop out or lock up.

Your comments about overspeed make sense -- it feels like the sensor is lagging a bit in reading the actual RPM after I back out of the throttle -- the sensors seem to think I'm still at 1800 or whatever, when it's actually dropped already, and are calling that an overspeed.

I did go ahead an order a transmission flush and refill, just to be be on the safe side. They also did find the leak, and are installing a new connector. They gave me a rental car, so I'm home right now, and will get all the details when I pick it up.

Vehicle has a 2004 VIN, is titled as a 2005 Leisure Travel, has been on the road a little over 3 years, and had 31,047 miles when I took it in this morning.

Please let me know what those other codes are before they get around to changing the ATF. BTW, the engine overspeed I referred to- is a signal that engine exceeded its recommended rev limit(if I recall-5200 rpm is the trigger). Unless you had a drastic episode that was an unlikely cause of your "neutral no drive". Doktor A

[Don Horner]

I just got off the phone with the service writer. I had not yet read your request about the other codes. I don't know them, yet.

I'm a bit upset, and after I get done looking through the old posts, I might be a lot more upset. When we talked about changing the transmission fluid, I specifically asked if they drained the torque converter as part of it, and the service writer assured me they did.

He called me now to say that what they actually intended to do was a flush, in which they disconnect transmission lines and use a machine to flush and refill the transmission. The machine apparently uses 16 quarts to perform this, but some of it is wasted in the flush. They didn't have that much of the DC Sprinter/Crossfire fluid in stock, and he questioned the cost. However, they have already pulled the pan, drained the pad and changed the filter. I specifically asked him if they also drained the torque converter, and he didn't know. So, I doubt it. But, they are not going to do the flush -- just the drain and refill.

The problem is, I can't remember exactly what I have read on the forum about these changes. All I can remember at the moment is that I don't think they are doing what I want them to do. And, apparently it's already too late -- they have started whatever it is they're doing.

I'm off to read some of the back posts about transmission fluid changes and refresh my memory, then I'll be back to relate what has happened. I may not know all the answers until tomorrow morning, when I pick up the van.

[abittenbinder]

A full blown flush of the transmission is not really needed in your case. If contamination or extended miles were present- then that might be prudent. Most shops doing a "real" transmission flush use a fluid and machine made by BG. That fluid is much more "expendable" and affordable" for the flushing procedure-though it officially lacks documentation of MBenz approval.

I would insist that your dealer still drain the torque converter-unless they have already run your vehicle-then I would ask them to do it all over again-in which case you have achieved a "partial" flush as a side benefit. Doktor A

[Don Horner]

I drove up to the dealership with a printout of the Sprinter Service Manual trans fluid change procedure, the the more detailed procedure you wrote up earlier, editing only to delete your comments about a consumer "power flush", because they were confused enough already.

The Service Writer showed interest in the printouts, and took them back to the tech. It turns out that the tech who was doing the trans portion of my service was "schooled" but had not yet performed a trans service (the dealer started handing Sprinters within the last year, and never sold any T1Ns, although they had several in for service). The more experienced tech came over and assisted him, and they had already figured out the torque converter drain before my printouts reached them. I think I ended up getting adequate service. I gather they appreciated your more detailed and easily understood description of the procedure. I think they may have not been sure how much fluid they were going to charge me, but your description made it plain that it should not reasonably be more than 8 quarts.

They had apparently planned to change their flushing machine over the the Mopar Sprinter/Crossfire fluid, which would have taken 16 quarts, slush it, then charge me with the additional 8 quarts to refill -- they were tossing around numbers like $400 to $500 for 24 quarts. The only thing that stopped them was they didn't have that much fluid in stock, and called me to ask what I wanted to do.

As it turns out, they didn't even have the 8 quarts in stock; they were not able to finish the job today, and I will pick it up tomorrow. They are paying for my rental car...

[abittenbinder]

They had apparently planned to change their flushing machine over the the Mopar Sprinter/Crossfire fluid, which would have taken 16 quarts, slush it, then charge me with the additional 8 quarts to refill -- they were tossing around numbers like $400 to $500 for 24 quarts.

As it turns out, they didn't even have the 8 quarts in stock; they were not able to finish the job today, and I will pick it up tomorrow. They are paying for my rental car...

I'm glad to hear they lacked the 16 quarts-it would have been a squandering of premium fluid and of your savings-$500 for fluid alone?! Not a good strategy. Doktor A

[Richard Almond]

"Improper ratio" is the official DRBIII label of the scan gauge code you interpreted as- incorrect gear ratio. This occurs when the TCM encounters shaft speed, engine speed and vehicle speed data that don't match the gear ratio it has selected and expects the transmission to be in. Improper ratio, engine overspeed, and transmission input sensor overspeed can all lead to loss of drive("slip into neutral" as you call it). I am working on and will be posting a tech alert later this week to address a possible cause of some of these transmission glitches. Doktor A

Doktor A

I am having same problem I was thinking about changing the three sensors you mentioned. if you would be so kind to tellme where they are located I will try this first.

shaft speed, engine speed and vehicle speed

Richard C. Almond
SOUTHWESTSUPERBIKES.COM