Sprinter Diagnostics

[Auspoweng]

For those who have come into the local forum recently....about 9 months back I picked up 2002 413 CDI cab chassis for $5k here in Perth, with 230,000km on the clock but with a stuffed engine. It has been off the road and unlicensed since Jan 2010. The story went that a local second hand machinery and truck dealer (ahem) picked it up from an auction and set their diesel mechanic onto it.

Originally, it was known to have 'spun a main bearing'. So, they put new bearings and rings, re-did the head, new clutch and heat exchanged. They ran it up but something went pear-shaped and it stopped going round and round.

So, I expected a dead engine and was told that an exchange engine would be about another '5 grand' or so. I didn't want to test this fact too early due to need for plausible deniability, I was on shaky ground with my wife...." but darling they told me it would only cost 5 thousand more...it isn't my fault."

So I bought it, then went to get an exchange engine and found out it would cost quite a bit more than 5 grand. After pulling it out the original, I found that the valve cap had been gouged by the cam. Perhaps they cranked it to death without good oil flow? I looked into a new head, but not knowing what else was done by the dealership mechanic and after getting some budgets for the head overhaul (somewhere between $3.5k and $7k I think) I looked around for a Plan C.

Eventually I decided on the somewhat risky move to import an engine from the UK, which I did and it arrived safely by boat in January. I also bought 4 refurbished injectors, because at 100 pounds each, it seemed like a good idea to eliminate that from the outset. My customs agent made the final delivery from the Perth container yard to my storage unit (5 km) and literally lost the box of injectors off the back of the truck...'Have you got marine insurance they said!'....another story grrr.

Aside from that setback, the engine itself looks okay but time will tell. 6 weeks later, with about 6-8 hours a week, I have the new engine back in the Sprinter will all the fruit connected back in their original spots...thanks to some help from the forum.

The starter motor turns the engine around nicely but that is all. I am trying to get hold of a Sprinter Mech locally to light up my rocket...another story.

This thread is about engine diagnostics. I figured back in October, after reading various posts on this forum, that DIY Sprinter owners need access to either
1) a Merc mate either from the dealer or around the traps or,
2) their own diagnostic unit.

I initially tried to get a 'DAD unit' out the states via Andy Bittenbinder but they had all been sold. So I bought a sprinter premium software package and interface out of Belgium from Carsoft. It was 575 Euro, I think.

I only activated the software today, so will let everyone know how this goes, but again I have the feeling I am in way over my head here.

:thinking:

[Type2Teach]

You probably are in over your head, BUT.... You've got this forum and the members to help you out!
Seriously, I bought a Sprinter in non-running condition and with the help of this list she's now my daily driver and kid hauler. Before this I had never even worked on a diesel engine, but had lots of shade-tree mechanic experience with gasoline engines.
If you need help (which it looks like you do) you've come to the right place.
:thumbup:
Read, Post and ask lots of questions!

[Auspoweng]

Well .. Day 1 with Sprinter diagnostics did not go well.

Software would not connect to the diagnostic port and I must admit when it comes to serial comms, I am an expert, due to my day job.

I have reassigned the inbuilt USB-serial port but no go. Perhaps Carsoft is no good on Windows 7 64-bit?

Have asked their tech support...let's see...

[jdcaples]

I don't have version 10 running yet.

Version 10 reports that I must "upgrade the security Dongle."

Version 8 still launches fine; it just can't reliably communicate with all the modules in my Sprinter.

I've emailed the WiBU activation info to Carsoft and am waiting to hear back.

The back of the program CD packaging lists very modest system requirements:


Pentium III 500 mhz
128 MB RAM
500 MB hard disk space
1024x768 screen resolution
CD-ROM or DVD-ROM drive
1 USB 2.0 Port to connect the vehicle interface cable
1 USB 1.1/2.0 Port to connect security dongle
Microsoft Windows 2000 or Windows XP or Vista or Windows 7


Given these requirements, your musing about the product needing a 32 bit system has some merit.

While you're waiting to hear back from Belgium, you might want to try logging in as Administrator and running it.

You also may want to try running it in some compatibility mode (XP compatibility? - I'm not a Windows expert).

-Jon

PS: Under version 3 and up to version 8, I could run this software with the wibu key in any USB port, but the vehicle cable needed to be assigned a USB port assigned COM1 or COM3 in at least one version on at least one of three laptops I've owned since first running Carsoft. Seasoned geeks will remember the special relationship between COM1 & COM3 as well as COM2's relationship with COM4 under the IBM PC & Compatible hardware platforms. There may have been some assumptions coded in at least one version of Carsoft.... or the USB hardware driver I was using at the time.

[Auspoweng]

Folks,

Okay this will be long post, as I finally got CarSoft to talk to the Sprinter. I have a legitimate version of Carsoft up to date to Version 10.

The only module I can communicate with at the moment is the CDI.

Full list follows below but summary of error codes are:
1) P1481 Glow plug failure
2) P1630 WSP Immobilizer Signal Error
3) P0600 CAN-Bus Fault
4) P2006 Pre-Delivery Pressure Sensor (Low Pressure) (OM611/612 Only)
5) P1330 Starter Relay Control (OM611/612 Only)
6) P1354 Synchronization Error: CMP and CKP (OM611/612 Only)
7) P1615 CDI Control Unit: Voltage Supply Error
8) P0110 Intake (Charge) air temperature sensor G14
9) P0105 Boost Pressure sensor

Apart from this it seems there are no other problems :hmmm:

Status: Fout

Module Information:

Part Number : 611 153 09 91
Software Date : 38/03
Hardware Date : 14/00
Diagnosis Recognition : 16/131
Supllier : Bosch

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Stored Fault Code and Current Fault Code :

Fault Code : P1481

P1481 Glow plug failure

--> The error will be stored within a few seconds.
--> The Check Engine (MIL)light does not light

--> Conditions listed in Freeze Frame Data:
- 001 Glow plug failure: Cylinder 1
- 002 Glow plug failure: Cylinder 2
- 004 Glow plug failure: Cylinder 3
- 008 Glow plug failure: Cylinder 4
- 016 Glow plug failure: Cylinder 5


--> Glow Plug indicator light may be on or flashing

Stored Falt Code :

Fault Code : P1630

P1630 WSP Immobilizer Signal Error

--> Start enable commmand not issued
--> Engine does not start
--> START ERROR may be displayed in Instrument Cluster multifunction display

--> Conditions listed in Freeze Frame Data:
- 001 WSP Control Unit faulty
- 002 WSP Control Unit does not answer or time exceeded
- 004 Authentication value expended
- 008 Key use inhibited or transponder blocked
- 016 WSP Control Unit does not answer or answer unrecognized
- 032 Authentication value incorrect
- 064 CDI Control Unit checksum fault: EEPROM test 1
- 128 CDI Control Unit checksum fault: EEPROM test 2


--> Possible causes :

- WSP Control Unit A62 does not respond, or has an internal fault
- Starting attempt with locked WSP from another vehicle
- WSP error: incorrect code generated
- Transponder key has not been synchronized
- WSP Coding is not correct for vehicle



Stored Falt Code :

Fault Code : P0600

P0600 CAN-Bus Fault

--> Open Circuit, Short to Ground, or Short to Positive

--> Conditions listed in Freeze Frame Data:
- 001 CAN-Bus open circuit, short to ground, or short to positive
- 004 CAN-Databus faulty or damaged
- 008 Transmission of message unsucessful
- 016 Transmission of message unsucessful
- 032 Hardware Fault
- 064 Hardware Fault
- 128 Signal Plausibility

--> Inspect wiring harness for damage or faults. Test CAN-Bus







Stored Fault Code and Current Fault Code :

Fault Code : P2006

P2006 Pre-Delivery Pressure Sensor (Low Pressure) (OM611/612 Only)

--> Low pressure sensor on fuel filter water separator signal fault

--> Conditions listed in Freeze Frame Data
- 001 Signal too low
- 002 Signal too high
- 004 Plausibility

--> Inspect fuel filter and water in fuel sensor
Verify no wiring faults exist and connections are secure





Stored Falt Code :

Fault Code : P1330

P1330 Starter Relay Control (OM611/612 Only)

--> Engine does not start, starter does not rotate.

--> Conditions from Freeze Frame Data:
- 004 Starter Relay Short circuit
- 008 Starter Relay Open circuit
- 016 Attempt to start without Circuit 50 signal


--> Possible causes :
- Verify wiring and connections between CDI control unit and
starter relay. Inspect Starter Relay and replace if necessary







Stored Falt Code :

Fault Code : P1354

P1354 Synchronization Error: CMP and CKP (OM611/612 Only)

--> The error will be stored within a few seconds.
--> The EPC control light does not light.
--> It is impossible to start the engine.

--> Conditions from Freeze Frame Data:
- 001 Flow limiter activated
- 002 Camshaft frequency signal too high
- 004 No Camshaft frequency signal
- 008 Crankshaft frequency signal too high
- 016 No Crankshaft frequency signal
- 032 Signal Error Plausibility
- 064 Signal Error Plausibility no camshaft signal
- 128 Signal Error Plausibility: Injection correction is faulty

--> Pin Setup crankshaft: 1: Sensor Ground; 2: Signal
--> Pin Setup camshaft: 1: Sensor Ground ; 2: Signal ; 3: +12 V

--> Possible causes :

- Camshaft frequency to high
- RPM not plausible
- Camshaft Signal missing







Stored Falt Code :

Fault Code : P1615

P1615 CDI Control Unit: Voltage Supply Error

--> The voltage supply is out of optimum range
Minimum voltage or maximum voltage thresholds
exceeded.

--> Conditions listed in Freeze Frame Data:
- 001 Voltage supply too high, or; too low
- 002 Voltage supply too low, or; too high

--> Minimum : 8 V - Maximum : 16 V
Voltage supply out of range. Verify condition of charging
system, batteries, and voltage regulation.







Stored Falt Code :

Fault Code : P0110

P0110 Intake (Charge) air temperature sensor G14

--> The error will be stored within a few minutes.
--> The Check Engine (MIL)light does not light.

--> Conditions listed in Freeze Frame Data:
- 001 Signal voltage too low or open circuit
- 002 Signal voltage too high or short circuit
- 004 Supply voltage too high or too low, or CAN-Bus signal faulty
- 008 Plausibility of signal
- 016 Plausibility of signal
- 032 Plausibility of signal
- 064 Plausibility of signal
- 128 Plausibility of signal

--> Pin Setup : 1: Ground Sensor; 2: Signal

--> Possible causes :

- Signal to low : < 0,22 V
- Signal to high : > 4,71 V
- Open Circuit (Condition 001 Freeze Frame Data)
- Short Circuit (Condition 002 Freeze Frame Data)







Stored Falt Code :

Fault Code : P0105

P0105 Boost Pressure sensor

--> OM611/612: B112 Boost Pressure Sensor
--> OM647: B141 Boost Pressure Sensor
--> The error will be stored within a few seconds.
--> The Check Engine Light (MIL)does not light.
--> Atmospheric pressure is used as a substitute value.
The EGR is switched off.

--> Conditions listed in Freeze Frame Data:
- 001 Signal voltage too low
- 002 Signal voltage too high
- 004 Supply voltage too high or too low, or CAN-Bus signal faulty
- 008 Plausibility of signal
- 016 Plausibility of signal
- 032 Plausibility of signal
- 064 Plausibility of signal
- 128 Plausibility of signal

--> Pin Setup : 1: Signal; 2: Sensor Ground; 3 : +5V

--> Possible causes :

- Signal to low : < 0,25 V (Condition 002 Freeze Frame Data)
- Signal to high : > 4,6 V (Condition 001 Freeze Frame Data)
- Power supply to low : < 4,6 V
- Power supply to high: > 5,1 V
- Plausibility of Signal (Condition 008 Freeze Frame Data)
- CAN Signal Fault (Condition 004 Freeze Frame Data)

[Auspoweng]

I though I would break this post up a bit....

Next, I reset the fault codes. After another start attempt, they have all gone, except for the for the glow plug P1481.

So, I have measured the resistance off the removable plug behind the passenger (left) headlight. 3 are 1.0-1.2Ohm and one is open circuit. I will remove the intake manifold and check that connection, but given all 5 glow plug faults come up, then I think I have bigger problems.

Is it normal that the diagnositics does not recognise I have 4 cyclinders but reporting a glow plug 5 problem also?

The original CAN bus fault might be the reason I have no other module communications, but I thought this fault should reappear after the reset?

Also, during the full diagnosis, and error was reported on the Instrument Panel (KI as attached), indicating error codes to reset, however the scan of that module under single diagnosis could not comminicate to restrieve those codes.

[Aqua Puttana]

I though I would break this post up a bit....

...
Is is normal that the diagnositics does not recognise I have 4 cyclinders but reporting a glow plug 5 problem also?...
I know that the earlier NAFTA T1N Sprinters (2001 - 2006) are known for inaccurate glow plug postion fault codes. It is always recommended to verify the glow plug as actually bad with additional tests and to not just change any out based only upon the malfunction code indication. That may figure in to your situation. (NAFTA NCV3 2007 - current model fault position indications are said to be more accurate.)

This is for what it is worth as I'm not certain if it translates directly over to EURO models, but I expect that it does.

Thanks for the Carsoft lessons. Very interesting stuff. vic

[Oldfartt]

Peter,

In your climate, the glow plugs are not necessary for starting. The glow plug controller has a fuse for each plug inside the box. One may have blown, indicating that plug has shorted. Search this site for glow plug info in T1N sprinters. I would concentrate your search elsewhere at this stage. Good info on Carsoft.

Cheers

Ross

[owner]

Your carsoft is newer than mine (any yours is not hacked lol). Mine is V7.4

I can talk to several modules in my sprinter, but thinking about it, they probably aren't on your model anyway. Controllers like ESP, Airbag, Tranny, and of course CDI all show in my carsoft. Mines a 316 ex ambo.

So of those 4 you probably only have CDI. I can't talk to anything else on my sprinter other than those IIRC.

So you might be ok, and it could just be the glowplugs that are preventing starting, although it should still technically start. Did you try cranking it and then re-read the codes? some of those stored codes you had would only show up again after cranking. Also if the main CAN bus is really down then it won't even engage the starter, so I'm thinking that CAN fault code was stored when the ECU was powered up without everything else connected at some point.

[Auspoweng]

Thanks Ross....I was starting to go down the path of modding the glow plug controller as per the other T1N threads Re: Internal fuses blowing. I'll avoid that path for now.

So I'll continue with CarSoft diagnostics over the next few days and try to get some more data out the instrument cluster and CDI controller.

It might immobilizer also? Not sure if the key I got was ever paired to this vehicle. Do you know if 2002 sprinter key's are RFID coded?

[Auspoweng]

Did you try cranking it and then re-read the codes? some of those stored codes you had would only show up again after cranking. Also if the main CAN bus is really down then it won't even engage the starter, so I'm thinking that CAN fault code was stored when the ECU was powered up without everything else connected at some point.

Owner,

Yep..I tried to crank after clearing codes and she came up clean other than glowplug faults on all 5 (but 4 cyl?).

I reckon you are right that all other other codes come from a premature energisation...I recall seeing a nose spray on TV from Ian Turps that might help with that!

[Altered Sprinter]

Peter I'm not into carsoft but the codex is similar to WIS Data control.
It appears most are referring to voltage fluctuations too high to low.and or canbus communications not responding etc.
I'm not much help as to time going though each and every fault such as wiring checks etc.
This may be your main lead as to a non start. Did I read correctly on a thread of yours the injectors were lost in transit"or was that a joke
?
Each injection has a precise firing order for fitment if you replaced them how did you program the new injectors.?
This is for the 313 4-inlines
41344
Ross is right you do not need glow plugs to start unless there is a major Can bus communication failure, to require a loading sensor fault, 3 checks: Sensor active voltage Wiring loom active full time voltage no fluctuations along the line, again voltage fluctuations look at the pin on the end of the control box to see if voltage is active. look for corrosion or incorrectly placed wire .Its a 756 page manual.

To be specific :Look for a reference that states Ki instrument cluster or similar.
As for Wis the MB number is for a 313cdi 4-inline 0014460721 OK Car-soft may show a different set of values. but similar.

Again under the same valves for a Ki cluster look for HW version 07 2004 this indicates year and month of production as an example. it will show Pin 12 on your engine control module.

Or a text event B1040-000 that states basically the CAN communication control is faulty:"Status stored event".

What this can mean is it's an older code stored conflicting with new information with a reinstated orphan engine.

You'll have your work cut out if this ones is showing up as it comes back to the injection system ECU programing, of which is the key to firing up that block back to life.

So it comes back to this question! Injectors who replaced them?
Richard





Richard

[Auspoweng]

Richard,

Thanks again. Those initial fault codes did not repeat after I cleared them and I suspect this related to past works by previous owner.

Yes replacement injectors were lost by my customs agent with the engine import. I bought those because they were recondition by Bosch tech's in the UK and I thought I might need them one day....but they never arrived. Strangely, the injectors were sighted at customs clearance in Fremantle...but the box went missing before delivery to me 5km away!:cry:

So, the injectors in my re-manufactured engine are the same ones that same from the damaged engine, refitted exactly as they came out. Same for glow plugs and all fuel rail components.

I did secure a spare HP pump on the same logic as the injectors and since that was mounted to the long motor, it came all the way to me via the system they call "Australian Customs".

What I don't know however is whether injectors were in the correct position in the first place when the old girl came my way...on the back of a flatbed truck.

Cheers,

Peter

[Altered Sprinter]

Richard,

Thanks again. Those initial fault codes did not repeat after I cleared them and I suspect this related to past works by previous owner.

Yes replacement injectors were lost by my customs agent with the engine import. I bought those because they were recondition by Bosch tech's in the UK and I thought I might need them one day....but they never arrived. Strangely, the injectors were sighted at customs clearance in Fremantle...but the box went missing before delivery to me 5km away!:cry:

So, the injectors in my re-manufactured engine are the same ones that same from the damaged engine, refitted exactly as they came out. Same for glow plugs and all fuel rail components.

I did secure a spare HP pump on the same logic as the injectors and since that was mounted to the long motor, it came all the way to me via the system they call "Australian Customs".

What I don't know however is whether injectors were in the correct position in the first place when the old girl came my way...on the back of a flatbed truck.

Cheers,

Peter Gee Peter it's like like a mystery that gets deeper and deeper. It seams your close but not quite there, at worst MB may have to tech talk to your ECU and reteach it to bark back to life.
But I think you'll work it out.
Cheers Richard

[Iggy66]

Having the injectors not coded correctly will not prevent the engine from starting, it may however cause it to run roughly when it does start. The ECU has the ability to learn and adjust fueling to each injector over time but obviously its better to have it setup correctly from the start.

[Auspoweng]

Thanks for the tip that uncoded injectors should still start but run rought. My Sprinter is still not even coughing on start. Back to basics on fuel and electrics I think.

For those who are interested in CarSoft 10, will attached screenshots of the CDI module pages that relate to OM611/612 engines.

As far as I can tell, I will be able to adjust engine coding and even recode ECU's via Carsoft 8.

Firstly...this post covers the CDI main menus and then Test, Coding and Live Data pages.

[Auspoweng]

Next the various Tests...

[Auspoweng]

Finally, the ECU Coding....

[Auspoweng]

Folks,

Confirmed that glow plug controller is energising all 4 outputs. The controller internal fuses are intact but one glow plug tested open circuit from the plug. The others tested 1.0-1.2 Ohms.

So I pulled off the upper intake manifold (again) and removed out No 2 Glow Plug. It confirmed to be open-circuit but I doubt this is my problem though.

I cracked open the high pressure injector lines at the injectors and stood well back when the engine cranked. Service manual cites extreme danager from HP fuel leaks, put fuel into your blood stream etc etc...

Anyway just dribbles came out. I don't know what to expect from the fuel rail pressure during starting but it was nothing much, no spray or jet etc at the low rpm of cranking.

The outlet at the end of the common rail for the return fuel line (back to the filter) also just pulses fuel out.

So I think I have a fuel problem with the HP pump. Cannot think of what it could be or how to diagnose furher. Any suggestions?

Can anyone explain what the pressure regulating value does (in terms of modes of failures).? Also, what is that other components mounted off the bottom of the lower intake manifold between the oil/water heater exchanger and the left engine mount. It is supplied with a line teeing-off between the Pre-Delivery outlet and HP pump inlet.

Regards,

Peter

[Altered Sprinter]

Have you done an injector leak test yet?Injector Leak-off Test - Sprinter-Forum (http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17149)
Richard

[Iggy66]

I've been thinking about your problem, have you tried fogging the inlet manifold with wd40 while cranking to get the engine to fire, I've run out of fuel twice before and this is the only way the engine would start after refueling. Seems the pumps can't overcome the airlocks at normal cranking speeds. Might be worth a try:idunno:

[Auspoweng]

Altered - I don't even see any fuel pooled in the top of the injectors from cranking with return lines out but I will give this a go.

Iggy66 - How is this done. With the upper manifold off and spraying across the 4 intake tubes or on and spraying into the single intake with the hose from the intercooler removed. Just good-ol WD40 hey?

Cheers,

Peter

[Iggy66]

The first time the NRMA guy showed me by removing the hose from the intercooler where it connects to the inlet manifold and then just lightly spraying a mist from about 20cm away into the inlet of the manifold while I was cranking the engine. The second time I was by myself so I removed the temperature sensor from the same hose, sprayed a mist for 1 to 2 seconds into the hose and then went and turned the motor over, it started easily both times but I would've had a flat battery and/or burnt out starter motor without being shown this tip by the NRMA guy. The later models have an electric pre delivery pump which is easy to prime, my 2001 316 has the mechanical pre delivery pump which just wont prime at normal cranking speeds. Aerostart may be a bit too volatile for a diesel engine to cope with.

Much easier to just not run out of fuel

[Auspoweng]

Well, I can confirm that the WD40 trick doesn't work with the upper manifold section off and spraying across the 4 intake tubes....no even a hiccup.

So, I will put on that upper manifold section and try a WD40 squirt as previously described.

[Aqua Puttana]

There was another fairly recent Sprinter-source thread which indicated no result with WD40. I believe WD-40 used cheap propane as a propellant so it may have worked at one time. Many aerosol products have stopped using propane because of the flammability hazard.

Maybe check the label or MSDS for WD-40 to see if the propellant is listed? vic
Well, I can confirm that the WD40 trick doesn't work with the upper manifold section off and spraying across the 4 intake tubes....no even a hiccup.

So, I will put on that upper manifold section and try a WD40 squirt as previously described.

[Iggy66]

OK, sorry for the misinformation, looks like WD40 is no longer suitable due to the propellant being CO2 you need a can of similar product with a hydrocarbon propellant (butane, propane etc) The last time I needed to do this on the side of the Hume Highway I remember I used RP7 but this may now be using non hydrocarbon propellant. Aerostart used sensibly should be OK according to a quick google search. Remember a diesel engines speed is controlled by fuel quantity, more fuel = more revs. You don't want too much fuel in the intake.

Iggy66

[talkinghorse43]

Both propane (110) and butane (94) are high octane fuels. Since high octane necessarily means low cetane, neither one would serve to start a diesel. If WD40 can start a diesel (I wouldn't try it), then other WD40 components must have sufficient cetane ratings. For comparison, ether has a high cetane rating (55).

[Aqua Puttana]

Both propane (110) and butane (94) are high octane fuels. Since high octane necessarily means low cetane, neither one would serve to start a diesel. If WD40 can start a diesel (I wouldn't try it), then other WD40 components must have sufficient cetane ratings. For comparison, ether has a high cetane rating (55).
OK.

My thoughts were that with flammable propane as the carrier and the basically kerosene based components of the rest of the WD40, that it probably worked. The CO2 is a fire suppressant so now that works against it all.

I'm not advocating using WD40 by the way. vic

[calbiker]

Have you checked the fuel filter? It may need priming.

[Altered Sprinter]

Establish the fact that your Love child has a destiny with a known vacuum, before anything else is done. I see bent cams, and mum and dad may need medical attention.
41432
Richard

[owner]

I have seen a couple of reports of that pressure regulator valve at the back of the rail failing on OM612 engines. It has plastic seat components in it and it can wear so that it can't seal the rail. Same fault - non starting.

You should be able to watch rail pressure in cdi live data during cranking?

[Iggy66]

Just checked the can of RP7 I used and hydrocarbon is the propellant so that may explain why it worked for me.

[Auspoweng]

I have given it a bit of a spray with WD40 then RP7...got a bit of run-on but no start.

I think that I have other problems with the fuel rail pressure. Thanks owner..I'll check out the pressure regulating valve somehow.

[glenview265]

I have been watching your problems with interest expecting someone to solve the issue.

If the engine wont fire using Aerostart or Start Ya Bastard (a nulon product - both I think are ether based) as advised down the intake manifold I suggest replacing the cam sensor.

Twice in the past 18 months issues similar to yours have been resolved by replacing the cam sensor.
Both times the sensor showed up on M B expensive equipment not aftermarket tools.

Worth a try for $100 or so?

Owner is also on the money as the mechanic checked the pressure regulator valve before saying to go for M B diagnosis in both my starting issues

[Iggy66]

Peter

Have you established you have primed fuel lines right up to the high pressure pump.

Do you have the engine driven or electric pre delivery pump.

Have you had any more codes from your diagnostic equipment.

Cheers, Iggy

[Auspoweng]

Update.....

Tonight the old girl coughed and spluttered and ran for about 3 seconds.

Then the fuel line from the LP pump to the HP pump came partially off, generally sprayed fuel about and let in some air all over again.

So, battery is back on charge and tomorrow, some SYB will be procured and applied to kick it over, hopefully push around some fuel under high pressure, clear the air out and stop all this stuffing about.

For our North American friends, SYB is the local version of AeroStart, whereby SYB = "Start Ya Bastard"

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Aerosols/Start_Ya_Bastard_Instant_Engine_Starter/

AusPowEng

[Auspoweng]

Houston - we have ignition.!

This day, the 18th March my 413 was reborn! What a moment, having laboured on a rebuilt engine for several weeks...I was getting annoyed as hell with the lack of progress.

But thanks to a bit of Ether from "Start Ya Bastard", she coughed and farted and then ran. I am embarrassed to say, at one earlier stage, I had glow plugs still connected and she knocked and kicked about on the SYB. Then the old battery finally had enough of the fortnight of abuse and I bought another. Only the best for my money pit ... a Century DIN 85LMF $2225 ... ouch.

Once going, she idled away for about 1/2 hour whilst I tried to get my Carsoft to talk to the IC/KI (instructment cluster).

Earlier, I was confused by a cable that looked like it has fallen out from one of the multipole connectors in the back, but after some investigation and review of the limited schematics from the manuals, it turned out to be redundant tacho sensor that was replaced. The old cable was left in the loom and the new one cable cable tied to the loom, leaving about 1/2m of spare cable looped in behind the instructment cluser!

Within that connector, one lead has a dedicated diagnostic conductor from diagnotic port to the IC/KI that runs down to the diag port....CarSoft won't scan to the KI but says it has errors! So I am still trying to work that out.

My earlier theory about the immobiliser being the problem was confirmed as a non-issue. Once the was dash apart, I unplugged the SKREEM module and got then famous 'start error'. It seem otherwise happy with my key.

I ended up going a bill silly and took almost all of the dash apart to get access to wiring looms to check for electrical problemss. My god - the dust and crap that has collected behind there. Now I that I see it, I have to clean it!

Also, the cup-holder/ashtray was giving me the total !+$$#@ since it wouldn't close. Every time I had to get under the dash it was in the way. I figured the retaining mechansim was stuffed. Wrong - there were several business cards that had slipped into the sealed housing by the old owner (Beaurepairs...I have an 2002 tyre carrier Sprinter 413). This was jamming it all up, so some keyhole surgery extracted all that crap out. Cup holder fixed!

Next steps - bleed the clutch and get some motion!

regards,

AusPowEng

[Iggy66]

Good to hear :clapping:

[Auspoweng]

Well, Houston now we have a problem.

After a great morning, tonight the Sprinter will not start again. Diagnostics is now showing a code for the fuel pressure solenoid.

I am wondering the role of the fuel pressure solenoid. Would it be so simple that it seals the return line during starting so pressure builds up at low revs, then opens?

It doesn't look like a variable pressure regulator, with position control.

Any Bosch CDI experts out there?

Anyway, I going to check the engine wiring harness from ECU to the fuel pressure solenoid and if that check out then ??

[Auspoweng]

Ok .. after reading the T1N forum and the long saga of MacConsult's problems last year, I see some information there on the Fuel Pressure Solenoid.

The signal is Pulse Width Modulated and can therefore precisely control pressure. Also, I see there are issues with the CAM sensor. This is used only during starting...perhaps that is a problem?

[talkinghorse43]

From the '03 service manual:

"High pressure which is present in the fuel rail
flows to the ball seat of the solenoid (Fig. 15). The
specified pressure required by the system is built up
in the rail by the fuel pressure solenoid building up a
magnetic force which corresponds to this specific
pressure by means of a control current from the electronic
control module (ECM) (Fig. 15). This magnetic
force equals a certain outlet cross section at the ball
seat of the solenoid. The rail pressure is altered as a
result of the quantity of fuel which flows off (Fig. 15).
The current fuel pressure is signaled by the fuel
pressure sensor to the engine control module (ECM).
The controlled fuel flows back along the return fuel
line, into the tank.
In a de-energized state, the fuel pressure solenoid
is closed as the spring force presses the ball into the
ball seat (Fig. 15). When driving, the fuel pressure
solenoid is constantly open (Fig. 15). When engine is
started, the fuel pressure solenoid is held closed by
magnetic force (Fig. 15). When driving, the pressure
of the fluid counteracts the magnetic force of the coil
and the slight spring force (Fig. 15)."

[owner]

Also, I see there are issues with the CAM sensor. This is used only during starting...perhaps that is a problem?
Yes the ECU needs to know the engine phase before any fuel can be injected, and the only way for it to know that is via the cam sensor.

There are some cam/crank sensor tests you can do with an oscilloscope, its all in the WIS. I know this because today I tried out my new STAR Diag Multiplexer setup (clone of course) from our friends in China. Awesome piece of kit for $350 vs $100 odd for (hacked) carsoft. NOTE that at the time I bought my carsoft setup ('07 IIRC), STAR clones were selling for around a grand. But they are much cheaper now.

So I am ditching my carsoft 7.4 multiplexer setup if anyone's interested. Carsoft works fine in its own limited way, but STAR is well worth the extra couple of hundred for the integration with WIS and the walk-through style tests it gives you.

[Aqua Puttana]

...
So I am ditching my carsoft 7.4 multiplexer setup if anyone's interested. Carsoft works fine in its own limited way, but STAR is well worth the extra couple of hundred for the integration with WIS and the walk-through style tests it gives you.
Owner,
To not take this thread too far off topic. This may asking for a lot...

It would be very informative if you would start another thread that includes your thoughts, comparisons, and maybe some manufacturers names for the Star vs WIS. People here are always looking for scan tool options.

Alternatively, Jon Caples has some good scan tool threads already out there that maybe you could add to. Particularly please include the clone information such as model number and software needed. Thanks, vic

[owner]

I hear what you're saying vic, but I'd rather not bring too much attention to it because of the (il)legalities of it all. I mean obviously I don't give a crap about that, but some people do, and also the forum owners might get in trouble.

I might try and post a new thread and see how we go. EDIT: it didn't go too well.