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View Full Version : Maybe buying 2001 ex Maui M/Home Sprinter


atis
01-07-2011, 04:10 AM
Hi everybody, what a great forum for info on Sprinters...
I am about to inspect an ex 2001 Maui Motor Home sprinter 315. I am trying to do as much research on this model as possible. Bit dissapointed that its got the 2.1 ltre version engine but some people have said dont worry they get along quite well. Is this unit gutless when pulling a load?
Could you good people on this site inform me on what to look for on inspection. A list would be good.
Have seen photos of the inside which is ok for its age but the engine which has done (25
000km) I would like to know a little more about. Does this unit cruise at say 100kms per hour ok on the highway?
I have read lots of info on this site about what engine oil to use etc.
The unit has not done very much work in the last year. So wondering about seals in water pumps on sinks, showers also?
Any comments welcome
THANKS
DAVE

Altered Sprinter
01-07-2011, 04:17 AM
Welcome Dave
The unit you refer too 2.1 308 Cdi very low on power if its a cab over chassis unit.
Van 70-75 MPH tops
Manual or sprintshift? How many K's.
Van specs can be pulled up if you buy.
How much are they asking:idunno: I amuse this is a 3rd ownership van.
Richard

atis
01-07-2011, 05:10 AM
RICHARD
Thanks for your reply....yes I guessed the poor power but I thought it maybe a 313CDI
I dont actually see the unit for a couple of weeks ..private sale...So I am going to really check which engine it has..

And yes it is the cab over chassis style. Auto transmission.
Its an ex MAUI rental ...Do they all have the 311cdi ENGINE??
250,000KMS and asking $40,000 aus dollars.
THANKS
DAVE

Altered Sprinter
01-07-2011, 05:36 AM
RICHARD
Thanks for your reply....yes I guessed the poor power but I thought it maybe a 313CDI
I dont actually see the unit for a couple of weeks ..private sale...So I am going to really check which engine it has..

And yes it is the cab over chassis style. Auto transmission.
Its an ex MAUI rental ...Do they all have the 311cdi ENGINE??
250,000KMS and asking $40,000 aus dollars.
THANKS
DAVE Haggle with them that's 5g more than it's trade value, they only cost 95 thou new, Most are 308 and 311 cdis with rentals, very economical.
Ross in NZ has a cab over 313 di cab chassis model Peterinsea S/A has a 313 cab-over too.
The 313 CDi is Superior on the mountains and hill climbs.
See if you can do a better deal. even two or three g's can buy you some nice toys Like HD DVD 12 v television , reverse camera etc. even a back up fridge for the tunnies up front:lol:
Richard
Layout for Maui NCV standard
29410
29411
29412

atis
01-07-2011, 07:31 AM
Thanks again for your reply.
Sorry to drive you guys nuts with my dilema but every body on this forum is so helpful.

Just found out it is a 313CDI.....and yes done 250,000 kms year model 2001.
What do you guys think about fitting a DP chip for performance enhancement.
THANKS
DAVE

Altered Sprinter
01-07-2011, 08:10 AM
Thanks again for your reply.
Sorry to drive you guys nuts with my dilema but every body on this forum is so helpful.

Just found out it is a 313CDI.....and yes done 250,000 kms year model 2001.
What do you guys think about fitting a DP chip for performance enhancement.
THANKS
DAVE You get a slight increase in HP or mileage but pay for the wear sooner than latter. avoid it. The solution as based on experience and consistent trails over 6 years is based on high quality oil; 0w-40
Fuels Caltex vortex supreme 10/ppm 51 cetane
Use of an upper cylinder lubricant non alcohol based for cleaning and maintaining upper cylinders,of which cleans and lubricates injectors ,pumps and rings.Removes rust from fuel lines,reduces smoke and emissions, restores engine efficiency especially on an older motor.
Stabilizers fuel... Now consider Brisbane and Queensland in particular with service stations as to consistent/ FLOODING IT WILL GET WATER IN THE HOLDING TANKS. THIS WILL ANS CAN CAUSE ISSUES WITH FUEL PUMPS AND POOR INJECTION DISTRIBUTION OF FUEL BURNS .
Reduces fuel friction and carbon contamination build up on rails injectors and prevents glow plug malfunctions due to an open injector.from a poor fuel pressure dump.
And there are few MB agents that understand the cause of failure as to reading star diagnostic string data values.
Upper cylinder lubricants such as red-Line RL-2 are not the cure all but with long term use they have proven to maintain the longevity of a Common rail diesel without breakdowns.
313 CDi keep your foot off the turbo, and keep it within the RPM range of 2600 to 2800rpm on the open highway, you should achieve 20 to 24 MPG in a 3 series 313 single wheel cab-over chassis model variant.
Fabulous engine.
Cheers Richard

Eric Experience
01-07-2011, 12:06 PM
Dave.
The power of the 313 is good and not a problem. The weight you carry is the main determanent of performance on hills. If you keep the weight below 2.5 ton it will get along very well. The kilometres is not too high plenty do a lot more than that. The only reservation I would have is the gear box, manual and auto are good but the 6 speed sprintshift is not good at those sort of K's.
In summary if its not a spritshift and it has been serviced by MB it will be good. Eric

atis
01-07-2011, 12:21 PM
To ERIC...and ALTERED.........Thanks for your replies, your experience and suggestions I do bow to,
Thanks again
DAVE

Altered Sprinter
01-07-2011, 12:26 PM
Dave I agree with Eric as to sprintshift nice but cost more to keep in service.Manuals will give you more torque on direct RPM and they are almost bullet proff.

I think you'll find the Unit your looking at has a 3.2 or 3.3 GVM maximum capability due to the box plus fit out.
Can you test drive it, before you commit?
Richard

PeterInSa
01-08-2011, 07:24 AM
Dave,
I am in the CMCA, and KEA provide a lot of support to MH's in OZ, they also sell ex rental units, I would give them a call as well. ( Most of the Dump Points in OZ have been subsidized by Kea and the CMCA)

We have a 313 LWB Sprinterb but standard van, ie Not Cab over, Have it all fitted out and when loaded up with water, LPG etc etc include to Solar Panels we weight about 3300KG. Suggest with the cab over you will be closer to your max of 3550Kg. Prior to us buying our unit we looked at a cab over but it was based on the 413 which has a bigger carrying capacity but with dual wheels at the back, whick I am not keen on.

Note the 313 can tow your boat as well, can tow up to 1800Kg with 100Kg on the ball.

Also some cab overs have problems with the front shocks and just run with little travel above the bump stops, do not know which brands of vehicle, perhaps EE knows, if its true and which models.


Peter

Eric Experience
01-08-2011, 11:42 AM
Dave
Follow up on my coments on the sprint shift, They are good to drive with but they can fail without warning, that is not acceptable to my way of thinking for a vehicle that is intended to be driven into remote areas. If you are prepaired to learn how to change the pump and carry a spare pluss tools then go for it. Remember that if you front up to a garage in the bush in a Sprinter the mechanic will be unlikely to have a clue. Eric.

atis
01-08-2011, 11:07 PM
Dave.
The power of the 313 is good and not a problem. The weight you carry is the main determanent of performance on hills. If you keep the weight below 2.5 ton it will get along very well. The kilometres is not too high plenty do a lot more than that. The only reservation I would have is the gear box, manual and auto are good but the 6 speed sprintshift is not good at those sort of K's.
In summary if its not a spritshift and it has been serviced by MB it will be good. Eric

I will be test driving this unit in 3 weeks time...I have a photo in front of me of the gear stick area, cant dont have a scanner but will try to describe it.
Looking down in the stick,,,a circle is in the middle, to the left of that is A, to the top of the circle is - to the bottom of the circle is + and the to far right is N then R for reverse of course below the N. What type of gear box is this?

atis
01-08-2011, 11:09 PM
Once again guys I am in the dark with this and thanks for your replies
DAVE

atis
01-08-2011, 11:13 PM
Sorry if this is duplicated, I dont know whether is pasted in or not.


I will be test driving this unit in 3 weeks time...I have a photo in front of me of the gear stick area, cant dont have a scanner but will try to describe it.
Looking down in the stick,,,a circle is in the middle, to the left of that is A, to the top of the circle is - to the bottom of the circle is + and the to far right is N then R for reverse of course below the N. What type of gear box is this?

atis
01-08-2011, 11:25 PM
Sorry again for too many replies.

Just found a web site that has a photo, the same as mine of the gear box lever. I guess by looking at this its a SPRINTSHIFT.
Scroll down to the paragraph headed
Mercedes Cabin Comfort


http://www.around-oz.com/reviews_mh/leisure_seeker_2104_page_1.htm

Altered Sprinter
01-09-2011, 12:03 AM
Sorry if this is duplicated, I dont know whether is pasted in or not.


I will be test driving this unit in 3 weeks time...I have a photo in front of me of the gear stick area, cant dont have a scanner but will try to describe it.
Looking down in the stick,,,a circle is in the middle, to the left of that is A, to the top of the circle is - to the bottom of the circle is + and the to far right is N then R for reverse of course below the N. What type of gear box is this?
Sprintshift semi automated crotchless transmission.:smilewink:


Sorry again for too many replies.

Just found a web site that has a photo, the same as mine of the gear box lever. I guess by looking at this its a SPRINTSHIFT.
Scroll down to the paragraph headed
Mercedes Cabin Comfort


http://www.around-oz.com/reviews_mh/leisure_seeker_2104_page_1.htm Winne's were notorious for suspension failure on the front end. but it was wight distribution as to center of balance,of which was the primary cause.
Red this archived link on the Australian side of the slippery block down under.
Mercedes-Sprinter Tin Suspension failures - Sprinter-Forum (http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7189)
Richard

Eric Experience
01-09-2011, 10:45 AM
Dave.
To answer you question, that is a sprintshift. It does explain the price. So now you have to decide if you want to take the gamble or learn how to change a pump on the side of the road.
The front suspension is only a problem if the vehicle was overloaded. Private vehicles tend to be very heavy because people take all soots of junk on there trips because it may come in handy. Hire vehicles are lighter loaded because the people are travelling from OS. When you drive it will be emty so there should be daylight between the wishbone and the bump stop, if you can get one finger in the gap it is OK. Eric.

atis
01-09-2011, 10:49 AM
ERIC
Thanks I probably will be taking the gamble, in about 3-4 weeks.
I will have to read up on changing that pump.
THANKS AGAIN
DAVE

Oldfartt
01-10-2011, 02:30 AM
Hi Dave,

Some points to check on your inspection.

As Eric says, check the gap between the front wishbone and the rubber bump stop. On the 2001 year Maui sprinter with luton body it should be about 10mm clearance. On later models it is about 20mm. They may vary slightly from one side to the other. If there is a significant difference there is a chance that the transverse spring is broken/cracked. The transverse spring on this model is made of two layers of steel. Check for hairline cracks.

At 250,000km ,the Front shock absorbers may be worn. Also check the front anti sway bar bushes for wear. You can tell this if the tie rod pins are off centre in the bushes. This is not a big deal as the replacement costs are about $4 each. I can advice how to do this if necessary. That anti sway bars are present front and rear. The front one should be 25mm dia and the rear one should be 27mm.

While it is hard to see without taking off the front bumper, surface rust can form on the front edge of the front chassis cross member. The rubber U shaped cover strip needs to be removed and the rust tidied up and repainted. Having said that, rust in these vehicles is not a common problem. Also check under and around the engine battery for signs of rust. Once again not too much of a deal to tidy up.

Check all fluid tanks for correct levels. See if you can get the service records. Chances are that the water pump may have been replaced as the front seal wears at about 185,000 to 200,000km.

Check that the fan belt has been replaced. Check for cracks and missing sections of rubber on the inside of the belt.

The vehicle has a sprintshift transmission. Do not be put off by this as they are very reliable once the control system pump relay has been upgraded. The gearbox is a conventional 6 speed manual with a clutch which is actuated by a hydraulic control system, managed by a computer which is set to do all the gearshifts automatically. There was a general recall to change a relay which controls the hydraulic pump. The new relay has a electrical spike suppression diode included in the relay, or it can be added as a separate unit. Either is acceptable. There may be a note to the change, if it has been done, on the inside of the cover which is found on the side of the drivers seat base. The relay is under the drivers seat.

The service interval for the gearbox oil is 300,000km or ten years.
The service interval for the engine oil is 22500km where low sulfur diesel is used. However as this vehicle is in Australia the chances are that LSD has not always been used so the service interval is halved to 12250km.

If you can, take it to a MB dealer who has a diagnostic code reader to see if there are any active fault codes. This will cost but is worth it.

Quoting Richard, "Manuals will give you more torque on direct RPM" This is not true. As the sprintshift gearbox does not have a torque converter, but has a clutch, it transfers all power as a manual, which what it is!! 5th gear is 1.1 ratio. 6th gear overdrive.

Quoting Richard, "sprintshift nice but cost more to keep in service" Should be same as manual gearbox. The hydraulic oil in the control system does not need changing as it is a completely closed system, unless there has been a pump replacement.

Past member of CMCA:thumbup: Check out the insurance plan:thumbup:

On the Motorhome part, the most common area for damage is the front left side of the luton, hitting trees and verandas!! Check that any damage and repairs have been done ok. Check within the wheel arches for ripples in the panel seams. This is a giveaway for accident damage.

The water pump is a shurflo on demand unit and should not be an issue.

Check the age and condition of the battery. I have removed the battery slider and fitted two 115VA batteries and solar panels.

Shower should be OK. but check the base of the shower rose hose where it comes out of the wall panel. There can be some stress on the fiberglass and could be cracked. Also check that the door closer works OK.

Lift up the squabs and hatches at the back and check for dust ingress.

Check for water damage to the side walls shown as ripples in the vinyl papers.

Check that the gas hot water system works and gas hob is OK.

Check for smells in the fridge and that it works OK.



If you buy this vehicle then I would suggest that you replace ALL fluids. That way you know where and when the service has been done. I can supply details of what to put where.

The 313 has a GVM of 3500kg and a towing capacity of 2000KG. GCM of 5500kg. I regularly tow a Suzuki 3 door grand Vitara on an A frame. The 313 has 97kw 2.2l common rail engine. The 308 is essentially the same engine but is down rated to 80kw. The 313 will travel all day at 110km/hr. Not so the 308.

I have travelled around Australia over a period of 12 months. Did 41000km on all sorts or roads and conditions and the only problem I had was a puncture received in the Kimberley ranges. In total, we have done 63,000km since purchasing it.

Cheers

Ross

Martin Duffy
01-10-2011, 11:16 AM
The vehicle has a sprintshift transmission. Do not be put off by this as they are very reliable once the control system pump relay has been upgraded.

Ross, thanks for all that info. I had to replace the hydrolic pump for the Sprintshift. Are you saying the replacement part is superior?

Hope so. Cost me heaps 12 months ago. $2600 inc the pump and relay and oils and labour at MB.

On the subject of changing oil, I hear so many different opinions on when is the correct time to do so.

Some swear by 5,000K's, some 10,000 some 20,000k's.

I do 25,000 a year. I guess 2 changes on full synth inc oil filters is probably OK. So Aussie Diesel is no good hey?

Oldfartt
01-10-2011, 09:33 PM
Hi Martin,

The original control relay (K84) did not have the suppression diode on it. This omission caused the hydraulic pump motor to be subject to high voltage spikes and eventual destruction of the motor. An additional diode can be added (AK330) or a new relay part no. 002 542 59 19 which has the diode built in solves this. Technically, the new relay is the best choice as the diode is very close to the coil.

My view is that if the vehicle has done over 150000km the chances are that this modification has already been done. However I have a friend who has had his pump replaced twice before the dealers realized what caused the failure. The modification is an official MB notification and all MB dealers have access to this information.

On the oil change intervals, It varies with vehicle usage, location, and grade of oil. Hence the confusion. If you stick to the MB recommended oil then you should be OK. I use Mobil delvac MX or Mobil delvac XHP LE 10W 40. This suits the climate and conditions here in NZ. I used MX right around Australia.

The diesel in AU is OK, compared with what can be dished up in USA!
I never had fuel problems anywhere in AU however in AU you can get varying types of diesel, some with bio D added at varying percentages. I am not sure now if High sulfur diesel is still available or not.

Richard, Altered sprinter, can more likely confirm the current situation on fuels.

The point I was trying to make is that if you use low sulfur diesel then the oil changes can be at 22,500km but if high sulfur diesel is used then MB recommend halving the distance between changes.

Dont forget the fuel filter change at say every 40,000km.

Cheers

Ross

Altered Sprinter
01-10-2011, 10:42 PM
Thanks Ross Fuels for Tasmania no bio-diesel
15/ppm ULSD
10/ppm ELSD..the latter is 3 cents a liter more expensive over BP 15/ppm although BP has 10/ppm but the stations don't state which is which,my guess it's the high volume truck pumps for 15/ppm; and the standard flow pump's 10/ppm for sedans.
Queensland has bio-diesel at BP selected stations only and shell don't know about independents.
SA refines a bio diesel but can't get it approved with new vehicle warranties as of yet:shifty: Aus is still 10% bio mix for manufactures limits.
The positivist side of bio is its cleaner but the down side it's not as fuel efficient.
so you lose the higher Liter per hundred kilometer range thus you gain no real monetary value.
Richard

kappy5003
01-10-2011, 11:52 PM
Hi Martin,


On the oil change intervals, It varies with vehicle usage, location, and grade of oil. Hence the confusion. If you stick to the MB recommended oil then you should be OK. I use Mobil delvac MX or Mobil delvac XHP LE 10W 40. This suits the climate and conditions here in NZ. I used MX right around Australia.

The diesel in AU is OK, compared with what can be dished up in USA!
I never had fuel problems anywhere in AU however in AU you can get varying types of diesel, some with bio D added at varying percentages. I am not sure now if High sulfur diesel is still available or not.

Richard, Altered sprinter, can more likely confirm the current situation on fuels.

The point I was trying to make is that if you use low sulfur diesel then the oil changes can be at 22,500km but if high sulfur diesel is used then MB recommend halving the distance between changes.

Dont forget the fuel filter change at say every 40,000km.

Cheers

Ross

Can you really go that long between oil changes, I know some modern petrol engined car manufacturers are specifying 15,000 ks between services. MHO is still around the 10 k mark.

Some Saabs have had turbo problems which now there is a school of thought may be linked to to increased service intervals.

Some years ago I had a Togo Hi Ace Commuter, I did the oil every 5k filter at 10k just my choice.

Maybe I am wrong but I thought vehicles with turbo's need more regular oil changes.

I'm only a few days away (72 hours to be exact not that I'm counting):bounce: from picking up my new toy, So I welcome any info on service intervals.

Cheers
Kappy

Oldfartt
01-11-2011, 05:53 AM
Hi, Kappy,

The service intervals that I have quoted are not my opinion but the recommended intervals by Mercedes Benz for sprinters up to 2006. The latest model has a service interval of 40,000km.
You cannot compare older Japanese vehicles with the modern European vehicles.

The turbos used in the sprinters are Garrett rotary vane units. They run at a relatively low boost pressure compared with some high performance cars. MB does not fit turbo timers to sprinters so they must be satisfied with the cooling method used.
I reiterate that to achieve the higher service intervals you must use the MB recommended high quality lubricants

Cheers

Ross

kappy5003
01-11-2011, 09:06 AM
Hi Ross

Wow, I would never of imagined that larger interval.

So price wise how does MB recommended oils compare mainstream high quality oils?

Does that apply of most of the MB range?

Cheers
Kappy

BTW my wifes father lived in Nelson many moons ago, from all accounts a beautiful part of the world, wife has been there but not I, will have to make a point of it.

Cheers

Oldfartt
01-11-2011, 09:23 AM
Hi Kappy,

Yes Nelson is a great place to live. Great climate. Not too much different from Wagin, Margaret river area, but smaller.
I have a second cousin in Kojonup. We visited there not so long ago.

MB recommended should not be not much more costly if you buy at the 20L rate. You get two changes out of it.

Cheers

Ross

atis
01-11-2011, 11:42 AM
Thanks for the unbelievable info you guys have given me.
This thread has so much info right through.
DAVE