Roadtrek Electric step "disarm" Switch?

[icarus]

Does anyone have an easy way to disarm the sliding door step on a Roadtrek?

I find there are a lot of time when I don't want the step to automatically open with the door. For instance when it is covered with snow and ice it will freeze open or closed, or there have been times when it is covered with much and gravel so that it binds. I have also had times where curbs or other obstructions get in the way.

It does not have a dedicated fuse, and Roadtrek tells me it gets it's power from under the drivers seat, in the spagetti of wiring. Wiring in a simple on off switch would prevent the step from extending when I don't wish it to, but I don't have a complete enough wiring diagram. Anybody out there have any bright ideas?

Icarus

[autostaretx]

Do they use a "helpful" wire color? (think blue with yellow polka-dots)
Or do they simply use "Red", which makes it difficult to locate.

Does the wiring diagram give any hint as to the connection?
You probably have the "body builder" distribution point under the seat, so that may isolate it from all of the other fuses/wires.

Otherwise, it's crawl underneath and push/pull/tug/follow the wire...

good luck
--dick

[icarus]

They do use the body builder distribution point. They do use color coded wire, but there is nothing in the wiring diagram that shows the step. I could simply crawl under, cut the ground (or the hot) and wire it up to a switch, but I was looking for something a bit simpler and more elegant.

Icarus

[gww7576]

Does anyone have an easy way to disarm the sliding door step on a Roadtrek?

I find there are a lot of time when I don't want the step to automatically open with the door. For instance when it is covered with snow and ice it will freeze open or closed, or there have been times when it is covered with much and gravel so that it binds. I have also had times where curbs or other obstructions get in the way.

It does not have a dedicated fuse, and Roadtrek tells me it gets it's power from under the drivers seat, in the spagetti of wiring. Wiring in a simple on off switch would prevent the step from extending when I don't wish it to, but I don't have a complete enough wiring diagram. Anybody out there have any bright ideas?

Icarus

I've had all kinds of trouble with that switch and everyone from MB to a Roadtrek authorized service center couldn't figure it out. Apparently the little magnet in the lower part of the door isn't strong enough to close the switch in the frame forward of the door. So I taped a flat magnet from Radio Shack over the magnet button on the door, and problem solved. So I think a simple solution would be to tape the magnet to the switch cover in the frame instead and it would always think the door is closed and keep the step retracted. Good luck!:thumbup:

[icarus]

Interesting Idea,,I'll give it a shot!

I'll try to remember to get back to this thread to follow up.

Icarus

[icarus]

So I finally figured out a pretty easy work around. The mag door switch drops down through the pillar and you can find the wires under the van. Adding a second switch, in parallel works fine. If the first switch is off, then the step is disarmed and won't extend if you don't wish it to. I mounted the second switch in the knock out plug just above the floor on the pillar behind the passenger see. There is a hole behind the plug with a caged nut for some application, feed your switch wires down there, fashion a switch mount and I now don't have to worry about the step trying to open when frozen or covered with road mud.

I also spend the day repairing a friends RT Agile step, after he opened the back door to have the step jamb itself against a curb, bending the hell out of the step and the mounting brackets. It isn't perfect but it looks pretty good, and operates well.

Icarus

[inutel]

Or..... you can just easily pull out the magnetic switch to access the wire. Been thinking of doing this for a while, just never had the time to test the switch if it is normaly closed or open. If you added the second switch in parallel, the mag switch is normally open then. Thanks Icarus..:)

[icarus]

Or..... you can just easily pull out the magnetic switch to access the wire. Been thinking of doing this for a while, just never had the time to test the switch if it is normaly closed or open. If you added the second switch in parallel, the mag switch is normally open then. Thanks Icarus..:)

It is not quite that simple however. Because the step has a number of default situations, just opening the circuit created it's own set of problems. For example, if you have the step out and the door closed, but the by pass switch in the "camping" position, but start the van the step will retract. Because the step is controlled by an electronic controller rather than a simple on/off it gets complicated. Each event, either door open, door closed, start the engine etc triggers the controller to do the proper action dependent on the location of the step.


So adding a switch in series does not solve the problem, but wiring one in in parallel does. By adding the switch in parallel, you mimic what ever action the door switch "sees" and with the add on switch in the off position the step won't open when you open the door, (which was the goal) but will retract if the key is turned on.

Icarus

[inutel]

It's the reason why I need to know first if the mag switch is naturaly open or closed. If it's naturaly open, the second switch should be wired in parallel and in series if its naturaly closed.
Thanks.

Edit: Rather than looking for the wires under the van, you simply pull-out the magnetic switch to access the wires, then splice a wire for the second switch.

[icarus]

Interestingly enough, I tried to test if the switch was N/O or N/C with a DOHM and I could not get it to read either way. I am not sure if it is actually a switch or some sort of hall effect sensor or some other electronic device that acts as a switch.

The only problem with pulling the switch to add the wires is being able to fish the new ones in. I have done two Agiles in the past couple of days, the first was easier to splice under the van because there was an abundance of wire. The second had only a tiny bit of wire so I did pull the switch, and figured out a way to fish the new wires up to the mag switch location.

Icarus

[slowstride]

Greetings Icarus

For the non-electrically inclined, could you please describe, in a bit more detail, how you went about the wiring work under the van? I get the bit about feeding the wires down the pillar, but how does one physically go about wiring a switch in 'parallel'? There is an obvious green wire with an electric step tag on it.....

:thinking:

slowstride

[icarus]

In simple terms, look at it this way.

If you pull the switch from the door post, (It just pulls out, sort of tension/caulked in place) you will notice that there are two wires. This switch sends a trigger signal to the step controller located at the back of the step. The position of the switch (open or closed) as it only sends the signal, and the controller decides what to do. So if you clip simply wire another switch, one leg on each of these wires you will mimic what the door switch does. So when the door is closed, and your extra switch is in the disarm position, opening or closing the door (and activating the door switch) will have no net effect. On the other hand, if you have your extra switch in the "armed position" the door switch will react normally.

In simple schematic, a switch in series is one switch wire after another such that both have to be open (or closed) to get the desired reaction. Wiring in parallel allows either switch to operate normally as long as the first switch is in the desired position. It is simple circuit to draw, but I don't know how to post a drawing.

It is important to remember that both of these switches control a current path to ground, so there is little danger is mis-wiring them since the only result will be to effectively close the switch.

Shout if you have other questions and I will attempt to clarify my response.

Icarus

[autostaretx]

I must admit, i'm confused by your descriptions.
By adding the switch in parallel, you mimic what ever action the door switch "sees" and with the add on switch in the off position the step won't open when you open the door, (which was the goal) but will retract if the key is turned on.

If the new switch is open (off), then, if it's in parallel, the step should operate as if it weren't there at all.
If the new switch is closed ("on"), then it should override the step-sensor at all times.

Here's a series/parallel circuit diagram:
30573

If the switches are wired in series, then an Open ("off") new switch would prevent the controller from seeing whatever the step-sensor is trying to signal.

--dick

[icarus]

Dick,

I wish I knew how to do that!

That is the circuit perfectly illustrated.

Icarus

[autostaretx]

I wish I knew how to do that!
I drew the image in Paint, and saved it as a .gif
Then i started my reply to your note, and clicked "Go Advanced" below the text-entry box.
Then i clicked the paperclip icon in the upper toolbar.
That brought up the find-the-file dialog window (attachment manager)
... first i told it where the image file was, then clicked Upload.
Then i returned to the message window, and clicked where i wanted the image to appear in the text.
Then i clicked the little "down arrow" next to the above paperclip icon.
That produced a list with "manage attachments" and the file's name as the (in this case) two choices.
I clicked the file's name, and the Forum software inserted the appropriate "magic text" in my message where i'd clicked.

At the end of all the editing, click "Submit Reply" to actually submit the message.

That's how.
have fun
--dick

[icarus]

You assume a much greater computer prowessness than I actually have! I run a MAC so I don't have paint, but I'm sure there is a MAC equivalent. Thanks,, I'll give it a shot as I am often asked to post simple wiring diagrams on the solar forum.

Icarus

[autostaretx]

I run a MAC so I don't have paint,
Yes, Macs have been coming with less and less helpful pre-installed software over the years.
If you have Microsoft Office, it includes a drawing tool.
At worst, you could draw it on paper and attach it as a photo....

good luck
--dick (who hasn't turned his Mac on yet this year...)

p.s. http://tinyurl.com/4nahxdl
(it's true, it's true...)
p.p.s. i wish one could insert a youtube link without the Forum loading in the embedded image...
i'd just like the link, thank you...

[slowstride]

Alright I squeezed under our Roadtrek and got back to the electric step.

There is quite a lot of spray foam around the place, however I can see a number of wires:

one pair are red and yellow
one set are white, white/red and ?
there is also a green wire

I probably need to jack the van up and get into it a bit more, however if any of these wire colors sound familiar then that would be a place for me to start

Thanks

Paul

[icarus]

First, drive the right side of the van up on a number of 2X6's so you can get a bit more room under the right side. Then, gently pry out the mag switch, located on the door post just above the step. It will have a pair of grey wires. After than, there is no telling what color they are. Mine were grey all the way, but another one I worked on had spliced red wires installed by who knows who!

While lying under the van, wiggle the switch wires, stick you hand up the hole that forms the door post and you should be able to see/feel which ones are the switch wire. In any event, if you just pull the switch, you might be able to pull a pair of switch legs up through the switch hole, make your first splice there, then fish the wires up to the suggested add on switch location in the plug just above, and inside the van. Pry out that plug, and you will find a hole with a welded nut. If you buy a switch with rear mount threads, you can drill out the nut, fish the wires up to that hole, and then install the switch using that hole.

Wire according to Dick's diagram in the previous post. Shout if you have other questions,

Icarus

[slowstride]

I got under the van yesterday, followed instructions kindly posted by Icarus and success!

Found two gray wires, one to earth, installed a switch between the two gray wires, running wires up, inside the van to where I have positioned the switch.

The switch I have installed now does what I imagined the on/off switch, which Roadtrek installed, would do, whew...

Now I will patch the small hole in the insulating foam with a can of spray foam insulation

No more worries about mangling my electric step on some unseen obstacle

Thanks Icarus :thumbup:

[icarus]

No worries, I'm glad you could figure it out with my description.

I am curious though, where did you find you had spray foam? I have worked on several RTs and haven't found any spray foam in that area?


Icarus

[slowstride]

There is quite a bit of sprayed in foam under van, encasing tanks and plumbing. I had assumed it was 'factory' but maybe not.

Pros: thermal insulation, accoustic insulation, protecting and supporting under van systems

Cons: decreased clearance, servicing access compromised

Time will tell if this is a good or bad thing.....

[icarus]

There is quite a bit of sprayed in foam under van, encasing tanks and plumbing. I had assumed it was 'factory' but maybe not.

Pros: thermal insulation, accoustic insulation, protecting and supporting under van systems

Cons: decreased clearance, servicing access compromised

Time will tell if this is a good or bad thing.....

My guess it that it was not factory.

See my posts on winter water systems for RTs.

Icarus

[Trekker]

Thanks for the info. I'm going to install a second switch also, per the advice in this post. Can someone post a photo of your finished switch installation so that I can get an idea of how you finished the installation? I don't want mine looking like a Rube Goldberg butcher job, so I'd appreciate some input on how you made yours look acceptable. Mostly, how did you neatly put a rectangular switch in the round cutout hole while making it look factory?

[icarus]

I'll try to post some pictures lated, but the gist is that ycan get rocker switches with round bases and rectangular faces.

Icarus

[Trekker]

Yeah, I picked up a nice round rocker switch at the Shack about an hour ago, and it has a rectangular base, but the mounting position you suggest (which is a sweet location, BTW), is too shallow for the rear connections of the switch. Perhaps I'll have to fab a beefier I.E. thicker, escutcheon plate for the switch. BTW, thanks to you and others for the info on how to solve this problem. This forum helped once again. I've been gnawing on this idea for a few days now, as my RT step keeps opening each time we go up an incline, then closing again as the slope changes. Very annoying, but the switch should solve it!!!

[carone]

The biggest problem I have had with my 2010 RS is the step! It has a mind of it's own it comes out and goes in when it feels like it. Now it is stuck open and will not go anywhere. Had the controller replaced by dealer because they felt that was the problem it was NOT shortly after it started doing same thing.
Is there some one who has a controller or wiring diagram of this unit I would like to be able to operate it manually a rocker switch to open rock it the other way and close it. I would like to know the wires that operate the motor?

Thank for any help
Frank:thinking:

[Trekker]

Frank,
I installed a rocker switch from Radio Shack per the instructions in this thread. Solved all the problems. Works great. Follow the instructions in this thread.

[carone]

Thanks I will try this I'm at wits end on this problem. I have been waiting for a jolt
And loud noise as the step gets mangled.

Frank

[RT.SS]

Hi everyone, I'm new here. Found this thread while googling for electric step disarm switch. I decided to install mine. Here is the link for the complete install ..http://roadtreklife.blogspot.com/2011/09/electric-step-disarm-switch_17.html

Thanks. Have a nice day everyone!

[tcaron20]

Excellent! I wanted (needed) to fix this but was scared to do it without clear pictures. This will work terrific. Magnets, etc. just do not do the job. How aggravating!

Tom C

[tcaron20]

Hi RT.SS,

Thanks again for the switch post. A couple of questions:

1. Where did you get the switch?
2. Gauge of the wires used?
3. Am I correct in seeing that all there is to it is splicing the red and black into each of the
grey magnetic switch wires? Does it create a "short" when the new switch is on to
disarm the mag switch?

Sorry for the elementary questions but I want to get it right before I start. Step is driving me nuts.

Tom C

[Trekker]

Hi RT.SS,

Thanks again for the switch post. A couple of questions:

1. Where did you get the switch?
2. Gauge of the wires used?
3. Am I correct in seeing that all there is to it is splicing the red and black into each of the
grey magnetic switch wires? Does it create a "short" when the new switch is on to
disarm the mag switch?


I mounted mine near the floor, per a suggestion from Icarus earlier in this thread. I used the available hole, which meant no fussing with threading wires up 3 feet and cutting a new hole. See photo. I find the low location to be user friendly, an easy reach when standing outside the van. Now, I mostly leave it off so the step doesn't cycle randomly, and then turn it on when stopped as I enter the van.

Got the switch from Radio Shack, see the part number and description in photos.

Gauge of wire is 20-24. Nothing heavy needed, it is a small motor. Yup, just splice it in. No it doesn't create a 'short' (well, I guess that might be one way to phrase it?). When the switch is enabled, it causes the motor to draw the step in. Think of it as an 'over-ride'.

[RT.SS]

Hi RT.SS,

Thanks again for the switch post. A couple of questions:

1. Where did you get the switch?
2. Gauge of the wires used?
3. Am I correct in seeing that all there is to it is splicing the red and black into each of the
grey magnetic switch wires? Does it create a "short" when the new switch is on to
disarm the mag switch?

Sorry for the elementary questions but I want to get it right before I start. Step is driving me nuts.

Tom C

I got the switch from Campingworld. I think i used a 16 or 18 gauge wire, as Trekker have said, you dont really need a thicker gauge. To override the mag switch, the new switch has to be in the "on" position , basically it will create a " short" between the two wires, if thats what you mean.

I like to look it as stock as possible, that is why I mounted the switch there. Good luck.

[tcaron20]

Excellent!

Thanks Trekker and RT.SS. For what we paid for these rigs you would think that Roadtrek would have come up with this fix for us. Oh well.

Great thread.

Tom C

[JuerRoad]

Hi Icarus,
I have a Roadtrek RS (2 1/2 years, 50,000km) and had and have problems with the power step. Now it is extended and does not retract no matter what I do. Any thoughts how to diagnose this probelm? Also, do you have a photo of the additional switch you put in to hinder the step from extending.
Thanks,
JuerRoad

[icarus]

I don't have a picture available now, but there are some posted above that mimic mine.

As for not retracting, the first thing I would look at is the fuse. The wiring to the step is essentially wiring to a controller. It is possible that the controller has malfunctioned. Essentially the controller just acts to open or close depending on what position it is in now.

In an emergency (working from memory here!) you can crawl under the van. The step drive is a simple worm screw. You can pull the pin on the worm screw, and push the step in until you figure out what the issue is. Make sure you secure it in however. The screw Assy is pretty easy to figure out, the controller is another issue.

Good luck, and keep in touch,

Icarus

[JuerRoad]

Thanks Icarus,
I am on my way back to my home from a lengthy trip to Canada's North. Since a couple of days I am driving with the step in the out position which, in my eyes, is an unsave situation; Roadtrek of course does not give any hints and as the experience of other Roadtrekers tells me, they don't care about customers. Will check what you described once I am home.
Thanks again,
JuerRoad

[icarus]

If you have been gravel reading it, it is possible that it stuck due to build up either on the step itself, or on the worm gear. That is why I plumbed in a hose bib and keep a short coil hose with a nozzel on it so I can spray it off before it comes out when I have been gravel reading.

Personally, I would have preferred no step, or a manual one since I am on the road with winter sand and gravel and drive a lot on gravel roads.

Like I said before,, roll underneath the van, and pull the pin on the rod, and push it in, instead of driving with it out.

Good luck,

Icarus

[BobLLL]

FWIW, I was poking around under the driver's seat the other day, and I noticed there is a wire with a plastic tab that says "sliding step" that is connected to the power there. It is accessible by moving the seat forward and removing the metal grill that is over the converter. Not sure that is any help, just another info bit.

[JuerRoad]

Thanks Icarus,
Actually, when the step got stuck in the extended position there was no dirt or any debris at the whole unit. Will check the whole step unit on the week end.
JuerRoad

[mowog]

I've been wanting to do this mod since last year. I was trying to figure out how to fish the wires and liked the location that icarus put his switch. There is already a small threaded hole there that the wires can fit through. The problem was getting a wire from the magnet switch to the area for the new cutoff switch.

So I was sitting on the step trying to fish a 12G copper wire to see if I could do any good. I decided to remove the lower door striker plate in the B pillar (2 torx bolts) and low and behold- you can see everything you need to do. I could connect one of the shunts by pulling the wires out of the door striker hole. The other end was shorter and I had to tape my switch wire to the long lead of the magnetic switch, pull it through the B pillar with the short wire, splice it into the correct wire and push them back through the pillar. I can see the ground and water tank through the striker hole, so it is possible from under the van, but easier I think with the door striker removed.

I think I'm going to drill a larger hole in the pillar and install a switch similar to the higher one that RT has to keep the step out. I bought a radio shack switch that icarus used and it appears to be rear mounted (could be glued or double sided tape?) so I don't want to remove the pillar trim piece to mount the switch plate properly. Tried it temporarily hooked up to the switch, and it works great.

Bob Skillman
Ellicott City, MD
2011 RS

[RT.SS]

I decided to remove the lower door striker plate in the B pillar (2 torx bolts) and low and behold- you can see everything you need to do. I could connect one of the shunts by pulling the wires out of the door striker hole.

Bob Skillman
Ellicott City, MD
2011 RS

Lol, I also found that out while adjusting the slidedoor striker plates, that was after the installation of the "disarm switch"...:bash:

[icarus]

Mine just failed in the out position, in a parking lot in Calgary,, in the middle of a coast to coast trip. I spend five minutes trying to figure out why, and then said " I need to get in the road" , so I pulled the pin ( which is actually a bolt an nut,, but will be replaced with a pin and a safety pin!) if you put some tension on the drive rod, it will hold the step in place for a thousand miles! (you will know what I am talking of out when you do it!)

When I get home in a few months, I am going to look seriously at converting the step to a full manual. I think the power step is just too much trouble. I need to figure out a way to pull it out, then push it in and hold it in with simple pin. The big issue is how to prevent driving of with it out? I will have to think on it.

Icarus

[mikeydaldog]

what years are your roadtreks? mine is a 2008 and came from the factory with a disarm switch located on the B pillar that works as desired. am I missing something in this thread?

[icarus]

Yes, you are missing something. The switch on the door pillar only controls the step in the OUT position. In other words, when you are camping you can open and close the door without the step retracting, but you can prevent the step from extending WHEN you open the door.

The are lots of time when having the door open automatically is a pain,, like when y are next to a large curb, or snow bnk, or when the step is covered the road mud, or is frozen etc. The disarm switch allows you to open the door without the step coming out.

Icarus

[mikeydaldog]

Ohhhhhhhh. Learning something today. When I get back to the house, I'm going to have to go out and play around with the step. I never really understood just what that darn switch did. Just seemed that sometimes the step would go in, sometimes out, but of course, I was always parked going in and out and too busy to muck around with it until it did what it needed to do - stay out when I closed the door. Never put it together that it didn't stay IN when I opened and closed the door when the switch was ? up/down? upside down? Will also have to look for that bolt and nut "pin" thingy, just so I can say I know how to fix it temporarily if it gets stuck out. That way I will never need to mess with it. Though, I like the idea of putting in a second "disable" switch on the B-pillar. Hmm. Maybe I ought to finish the radio replacement project first. Still waiting on that new harness (see thread elsewhere). And that entertainment center project that I'm thinking about (see thread elsewhere). And that fridge fan project (see thread elsewhere). And it's about time to change the generator oil (see thread elsewhere).

Having fun without leaving home.:lol:
Wendy

[mowog]

Finished installing the step disarm switch. Removing the lower door striker plate on the B pillar above the magnetic sensor made it fairly easy. The plate is held in by 2 torx bolts. With the plate removed and pulling the magnetic switch out of the pillar you can see which wires are attached to it.

Mine had two black wires, one that ran alone and the other with a brown wire spliced into it. the wire with the brown spliced into it was long enough to pull out of the striker plate hole. I cut the 3 wires on each side of their connection, and spliced all 3 and my new disarm switch wire with a crimped butt connector. I taped over the connector as Roadtrek had done.

The second black wire from the magnetic switch was too short to pull through the door striker plate hole and splice outside, so I taped my second disarm switch wire to the longer of the 2 magnetic switch wire and pulled it through the B pillar hole by pulling the magnetic switch out. With the other disarm switch wire out of the magnetic switch hole, I cut the proper wire and spliced the cutoff wire together with the magnetic switch wire, and pushed all the wires back through the B pillar hole.

I mounted the disarm switch where icarus did, where the plastic plug is on the inside of the van. I drilled a 1 inch hole centered on the threaded hole already there. I drilled a second 1 inch hole just below the first, centered about 1/8 inch below the edge of the first hole. (If I did it again I may have drilled the second hole above the first as the switch would be more centered in the area top to bottom.) I used a switch and plate identical to the switch that keeps the step from retracting higher up on the door pillar. I removed the switch from the plate and reversed it, so off is on and on is off. Crimped 2 blade ends on each disarm wire and attached to the switch and mounted in the hole.

Now when both the disarm switch and the upper step switch is "off", the step will not open. I reversed the disarm switch so "on" would not disarm the switch, but "off" would. This seemed easier to explain to those using the van, as now off prevents the step from opening and on allows it to open.

Anyone concerned about the difficulty of this mod should remove the door striker plate (you should be able to see exactly where it is positioned for replacing) and look inside. A flashlight and a stiff wire with a hook to grab wires should show you everything you need to do.

Bob Skillman
Ellicott City, MD
2011 RS

[icarus]

As mentioned above, mine stuck in the out position several months ago while it was on the road. I pulled the bolt from the jack screw, pushed the step in and forgot about it. Today, I spend the day testing and (with the help of the Kwikee troubleshooting FAQ, (posted else where on this site) everything tested fine, at least with the can wiring. The problem is you can easily test beyond the 4 pin connector that connects the controller to the harness. Also, the motor cannot be unplugged from e controller, since RT in it's infinite wisdom uses a butt splice that cannot be unplugged!

So I cut the motor leads out and bench tested it, and it worked fine on the bench. I then wired it back up, and viola! It worked! I tested the resistance through the butt splices and could find no flaw, so I really don't know what was causing the issue. (I hate when I "fix"something without knowing what caused it to be "fixed"!) So, I soldered the connectors and heat shrunk the joints.

I also took the time to remove the step completly to derust the channels and the rods. I then reassembled it all with lots of white lithium grease, and hope for the best.

Bottom line, I wish the step was a simple manual one, and I may yet turn it into a manual using some sort of spring and ball catch to secure it in both the open and closed position.

Icarus

PS. The biggest issue with the step is the accumulation of sand, and gravel and grit on the step, interfering with the running board, causing it to bind... And get damaged.

[PA Slammer]

Many times in the airplane I fly, when we have an issue, simply turning the item off for a minute or so then back on fixes the problem. Sometimes we have to pull a circuit breaker to "reset" the component. Perhaps your cutting the wire did exactly that. I wonder if pulling the breaker or popping out the fuse would have worked?

PA Slammer

[ternst]

Roadtrek just sent me a new controller for my '13 RS - the on/off switch has never worked. Can't believe how many different wires and plugs there are - I'm hoping someone with my lack of electrical skills will be able to figure out how to replace this (how hard can it be to unplug something and then plug in the new one?) - there isn't a Roadtrek dealer anywhere near me to do the work.

[icarus]

If the on/off switch switch has "never" worked, how does anyone know if it is the controller that is faulty? My guess (from afar, with just my gut) is that perhaps there is a bad ground. The entire system grounds through the switches (both the on/off and the mag door switch). Who determined that the controller was bad?

You don't need a RT dealer to do the controller,, any reasonable Rv place SHOULD be able to do it. The basic controller is just plug and play, but the wire from the controller to the step motor needs to be cut, and resoldered, plus, the controller is pop riveted to the step frame. The rivets need to be drilled out (not a it deal) or cut off with a chisel.

Not too hard to do for a reasonable DIYer.

Good luck,

Icarus

[ternst]

Icarus - the controller they sent me looks to be all plug-and-play - 10 wires in all, and all with connections - I don't believe any wires need to be cut. Looks like there are three screws that hold the unit to the body. We don't have any RV places around here so I'm hoping to be able to do it myself, just have not had the time to mess with it yet. The RT factory sent the unit for me to try to see if it would fix the switch - after they had me do some simple tests that did not solve the issue. Kind of tough trying to do it via e-mail, but I don't have any other options at the moment...