Rust??

[Wileycoyote]

Do many other people have the same rust problems we are facing up in Northern British Columbia? Already Ive had one half of one of my vans repainted under warranty with the other half to be done soon as well because of Rust coming from underneath the paint.

[Altered Sprinter]

Rust, are sure you didn't buy a Ford:smilewink:
This problem with rust has shown up before , thinking of a few down in Florida one or two up in Denver and it has been mentioned on this forum.
In fairness my has a slight rust section showing on the top rain rail above the side door, the metal is not that smooth and the paint is marginal as to the top of the rail being quite sharp in this section on my van , quick fix cut and polish and it has not come back the van is parked next to a tree, and I know the leaves are quite acidic, or the dam birds sit on it before rousting at night in the same bush.
Where on the sprinter is it coming from ! between the seams or inside of the rear cargo area, or from underneath:thinking:
Richard

[Wileycoyote]

every van in our fleet has rusting on the panel behind the sliding side door

[Altered Sprinter]

can you run a photo up on where exactly.Richard

[Wileycoyote]

I've had one side repainted the rust bubble was coming like 1 inch or 2 from the door about 6 inches above the metal runner the door slides on in the middle of the panel. I have another rust bubble on the other side now thats in the middle lower part near the rear right on the crease that faces down by where the magnet is.

[Altered Sprinter]

I've had one side repainted the rust bubble was coming like 1 inch or 2 from the door about 6 inches above the metal runner the door slides on in the middle of the panel. I have another rust bubble on the other side now thats in the middle lower part near the rear right on the crease that faces down by where the magnet is.

Now I know where you are, I'd have ran Photos up but it's drizzly so being a big wussy I'm not getting wet, "I:smilewink: Might Rust"
The frames either side of the door at waist height, and the lower seams left to right at the bottom of the frame that connects ts to channel rail below has spot welded, seams, which are primed and sealed, then a layer of silicone based adhesive sealant is roughly placed as a smear over the seams, which is then painted in the vans colors, White if it's a delivery unit.
The paint will not adhere to the silicone sealer, especially if a solvent is wiped over it, also because its a rough finish dirt immaculately attaches itself within the voids.
Rust should not happen as the body is galvanized, BUT behind the pillars on the older 2000 to 2002 models the paint did not always get into this area, it's possiable due to condensation from severe winter conditions along with the moisture content of salts accumulating with in the frame, rust could form and work through the spot welded seams , solution spray the back areas with a deodorized fish oil.
The new Sprinters are completely filled with a special foam as well as 360 degree rota-dip galvanizing process so n more rust.
This rust may be something that is done stateside, as the cargo vans are sent in two sections, then rejoined Thinking maybe the wrong metal primer has been used, as one which is a black charcoal,dries inside of ten minutes, the proper metal primer is a dark Grey like a battleship, this takes 24 hrs to cure before the seams can be spot welded with out burning into the metal and causing oxidization within and behind the seam But Thats only my opinion.
Not that this helps Mercedes has a full rust warranty on the new Sprinters for the life of the vehicle , even if it;s your fault they will repair it, yet again in the states cost cutting as to the price of the Sprinters means a limited corrosion warranty.
Muter, mutter.
Richard :shhh:
Richard:bash:

[georgetg]

...Rust should not happen as the body is galvanized...
...The new Sprinters are completely filled with a special foam as well as 360 degree rota-dip galvanizing process so n more rust....

...This rust may be something that is done stateside...

...Mercedes has a full rust warranty on the new Sprinters for the life of the vehicle...

Richard,
Sometimes I wonder weather we are driving the same vehicle...

Here are pictures of a 1 year old NCV3 Sprinter (the "galvanized one").
The pictures are from Germany not stateside:

http://www.2yoo.de/dr/sprinter/galerie/bilder/galerie-391-1.jpg
http://www.2yoo.de/dr/sprinter/galerie/bilder/galerie-391-2.jpg
http://www.2yoo.de/dr/sprinter/galerie/bilder/galerie-106-7.jpg
http://www.2yoo.de/dr/sprinter/galerie/bilder/galerie-106-6.jpg



Special Foam?

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/3848/img0764rg8.jpg
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/461/img0765np6.jpg

Furthermore the body is not fully galvanized:

Fully galvanized parts on NCV3:
Outer sheet metal of the hood,
Both front fenders,
Rear pillars andd the last 2/3rds of the frame.

One side only galvanized on the NCV3:
Inner sheet metal of the hood,
Inside sheet metal of front fenders
front doors and their frame
The sheet metal below the body side molding
lower body between wheel wells.
both bumper assemblies, grill and light surround
front thrird of the frame and a variety of small parts.

THE REMAINDER IS NOT GALVANIZED AT ALL!

And while MB has a 12 year warranty for rust penetration, the offical word in Germany on this rust is that it "...reflects the level of quality one can expect for the class of vehicle." (Stand der Technik für diese Fahrzeugklasse)

The good news is that the last 2 years of the OLD Sprinter have the lowest number of complaints for the entire Sprinter line including the new one.

Mine has been in California's central valley for 99% of its life 6" of rain per year and I have rust on my B pillars below the seatbelt attach point.

I love my Sprinter, but it's not perfect. and it has rust.

Richard: if you pull of panels and look inside your Sprinters body cavity you too will find rust.

Cheers
George

[Altered Sprinter]

Hi George
Prior to posting I was looking for the blue sprinter, I'm onto you:smilewink:
Either you ran this on an older thread, or I've seen it before elsewhere:idunno:
B My sprinter 2005 is fully painted in even down in the dungeons of the lower quadrants of no where land.
Behind the rear B Pillar , the full plastic surround was removed for a wiring set up done in Germany before my Sprinter was flown home, the paint was ! well very little, we repainted this with a cold galvanizing process, then fish oiled it, I have no rust after two years any where on the van, with the exception of the rear cargo door bottom rubber seal , I was aware of this and keep it clean as a preventative cure.small bits of grit and dust do get under the seal and sweat, which if not kept clean , means a future rust problem.
bottom front windscreen channels on the frame behind the hood are always washed and kept clean of any debris that may and does accumulate either side of the very small drain holes on either left to right guards, that's a weak point.
Top center windscreen drain holes on the rubber seal and left and right drain outlets on the bottom of the windscreen seal are air blown every month, you'd be surprised as to what blows out, months damp soil and lizards droppings:tongue:
The van has a polish every two months inside and out, cause I'm fussy as hell as Scott, calls my Sprinter 'Richards Cindy'
If the van has been on a dust road, I wash it every time as the fine dust holds in voids which create damp sections for moisture to run amok with rusticities,...As the dust contains salts which are corrosive, this I keep track of.
Cleaning a vehicle to look like new and even cleaning under the guards, helps to preserve the good looks of my baby Benz and resale value.
OK I admit Canada is a hard place for any vehicle in the dead of winter, which is why everyone puts their favorite toy in to winter hibernation, until Spring, with a commercial vehicle it's on the road full time in all conditions, cold climates mean condensation and long term wet areas that grow rust as dirt accumulates, atmospheric conditions that contain pollutants as in California know as acid rain also blows a paint finish, if the vehicle is not regally washed and polished, ultimately rust makes an appearance, and then we get another thread , saying Why is it so:bash:
Your right about the low complaints with the Sprinters , the fiat Iveco can rust out the floor inside of twelve months, I've seen this in Italy and could not believe it, until I saw the miles on it apparently it goes to Germany and Spain non stop winter killed it.
Ford Transits , well Full of rusty dents and Fond of rainy days.
Thinking of proof, as an example, as to my preferred rot gut drink Coca Cola.............................................. .................:lol:
atmospheric pollution, a fine clear like film containing corrosive elements
One
Put a copper coin in a small volume of Coke and watch the magic begin.
Two
Put a Mercedes classic in a vat of Coke for twelve months. and believe this
Richard
Altered Tip of the week, :rad:Drive a Merc, treat it like a Merc:rad:
1728

1729

1730

1731

1732
George Top two photos in silver, that's not a sprinter
All Panels on a Mercedes Benz Sprinter are galvanized prior to panel assembly, the weak point is behind the B Pillar and front A Pillar.
Special foam is in voids only on the New 2007 Sprinter,
Last set of Photos you shown assuming its yours :idunno: if not! that yellow junk is sprayed under the chassis only not inside of the van panels, what should be there is a clear if not sticky film as a protective grease so to speak , little dark spots at the very bottom of the panel inside cargo section looks like mold , solution oil it
With the Sprinters Both cargo vans are made in two different factories,Düsseldorf and Ludwigsfelde, the passenger unit is made in one only in Germany, maybe a quality control problem , also Sprinters in the cargo units are manufactured in Argentina [vito or Victoria I think from memory] or Gonzales? Sprinter and Vito mixed up on that one story, and back freighted into Europe, depending on supply and demand,these also go directly to Mexico ,again another factory and quality control program, Sprinter vans cargo only are shipped in sections into the states, so what is DCX doing that's different to the German production units, in Ladson S.C?I have no answer on that one.
Same Sprinters , but it's looking like pick a box , as to which factory they are being sent from and as to what specifications are being done..... to pricing arrangements! for export Sprinters, big difference in Australia, you get the lot, and pay for it, but they last and don't have any where near a fraction of the problems you guys seem to be having, The mystery continues.

[Wileycoyote]

My dealership told me that in the States because of labour laws they receive them in pieces but here in Canada we get them fully assembled. Supposedly we have our sprinters a little bit cheaper here also because of that.

[sikwan]

My dealership told me that in the States because of labour laws they receive them in pieces but here in Canada we get them fully assembled. Supposedly we have our sprinters a little bit cheaper here also because of that.

I'm not sure if it has to do with labor laws, but I do know it has to do with avoiding import taxes in the US.

Cargo vans come partly assembled. Passenger vans, otoh, are fully assembled from the Dusseldorf plant.

[Altered Sprinter]

My dealership told me that in the States because of labour laws they receive them in pieces but here in Canada we get them fully assembled. Supposedly we have our sprinters a little bit cheaper here also because of that.
Yes this is true how it works is a tax breaks with local content with the Sprinters down in Florida there are now twenty manufactures Canada lost Honda which went down there as well costing Canadians jobs:thumbdown: further slowing it's economy in some sectors as well, did you know in the last five years Canada which is the largest manufacture of Auto parts in the N/American sector has lost over two hundred thousand workers, not including the other sectors relying on that industry for employment.
The more I think about it, the more the question, rattles me on how the Sprinter is cheaper, in the US, than UK and Europe?
I spoke to a Ford Rep who sells the Transits down under, and he said DC does what Ford does , they buy x amount of vehicles to their specifications lots of pieces missing as to what you should get in Europe and they are bought bulk on a stand alone basis, without warranty, DCX is carrying the warranty not D-B you could have knocked me down flat on that one, but it makes perfect sense, other wise the Dodge would have the same warranty as the European Mercedes, In Australia our warranty is for a three years and two hundred thousand kilometers, every thing is fully covered, but the Dodge has a 12 month basic warranty on X amount of parts then it separates into drive train etc for two years , if you want an extended warranty , it's an extra, so the lower prices add up and explain an awful lot on the older Sprinters, as to having older engines with out the upgrades, that were standard on the 2002 European Sprinters, even the body clips like lights front and rear , stainless exhausts suspension and harmonic balancer upgrades, the US just did not get them until the damage had become so obvious to every one, except DCX.
PS did you ever look at the Canadian price of a Sprinter's Vs a US sprinters, seven grand difference in 2006 March, you'd be surprised as to how many snuck through to Alberto, without warranty and with depending on how you did it.:shhh:
Look after your Sprinters , they will be cost effective in the long haul
Richard

[georgetg]

Richard,

just in case you didn't read my previous post (http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5983&postcount=7) carefully.

All pictures are of new NCV3 Sprinters in Germany rusting, there is no foam the chassis is only partially galvanized, not hot dipped galvanized.

All MB does is spray a waxy substance into the voids of the body as you can see in the last pictures...

the last picture is Cheers
George

[Altered Sprinter]

Hi George
\looks like I'll have to go back into the media section in Germany on this as I have lost where the information was stored on how they MB rust proof, the thing.
There is a special foam that is inserted into the voids of the seams which expands to fill every nook and cranny, once the body is emerged in this roto-dip process,I've seen it work and its an old and very effective system thinking fisherman's bend In Vic with GM 1972, it's the same process
the rear left and right quarter panels are fully galvanized, I'll run a photo up when the weather clears as to a small scratch that has been on my van under the tail light since new its a clear indication of a galvanized process no rust it looks like a fresh mark but its been there since new May 2005.
I will find the info on the rest of how its done .
Thinking of the first two photos you posted , rust above the tail light, looking at this there appears to be separation of the mastic seam , this means the process of bonding is weak at this point, maybe the other back section has taken a hit for it to open up, that is possiable, of course vehicles rust, and if from new in a very short time, then this is due to severe atmospheric conditions Vans in the UK are lucky to survive five years on the local M5 where salt is used in winter, Germany and Austria would have the same effect as in Canada, it's hard on metal ,but clean them , and the life span is extended.
Richard.
Our vans don't look like the last photo you showed, sorry it's a different clear spray process.
DaimlerChrysler Australia Pacific - News - The new Mercedes-Benz Sprinter (http://www.daimlerchrysler.com.au/dc_australia/0-172-65707-1-648297-1-0-0-0-0-0-11386-65707-0-0-0-0-0-0-0.html)
Richard
1738

[jdcaples]

Rust coming up from under paint?

What metal is oxdizing? The iron? How did O2 get to the painted metal?

Is paint permeable, or is there a sufficient supply of raw materials under the paint to, um, "rust?"

If the whole body were sprayed with an oxygen barrier, a non-permeable substance (Line-X?), would that have stopped the corrosion?

-Jon

[poolmike]

I have a few 'specks' of rust showing up on my van. The dealer told me that the paint must have been scratched/perforated first for the rust to show up. I proceeded to show this crack-head my 'perforated' hood, it is all chipped up, and no rust showing. Then I showed him the rest of the 'perforations', which are scattered in various locations, and asked 'how did the paint get chipped here(pointing to the top of the rear doors)????

Anywho, I usually just treat these little spots with phosphuric acid and touch-up paint.

[Altered Sprinter]

Following up on Georges photos, Dam it kept me up all night, thinking of the tail light on the first photo.
OK Its a side view of the new and current Sprinter, silly me:bash:
Mine has not a rust issue on both the 2005 and 2006 current new generation sprinters, so down to the dealer and had a real good look, at the three of them.
Two out of three were perfect in the black sealant seams, under the seam there is a plastic sealant as well the same as on the old Sprinters as per my 2005 Sprinter, the seal was perfect! No 3 the black sealant was a mil short of the end of the run with a dogs hair hanging off it sort of like a drip not good water can run back into the seam drip by drip, the seal on the metal join under the black section of sealant was rough, so we do have a few that either are not being picked up in quality inspections for what ever reasons?, which may lead to a corrosion issue latter on.
With the three vans I looked at two had the same undercoating process as the chassis but in a thinned out mode, the third dated July 2006 had a clear coating still sticky the same as the older Sprinters, so either there is a shortage of rust preventative preparations after the van is built or they have changed over to the latter rust preventative sealants???
I closely looked at the bottom of the seams inside of the panel voids and saw no mold or rust , but it's awfully thin in both paint and sealants, a possiable long term issue of the seams internally rusting, but this would take years to break out onto the outer panels as the seam is 3/4 of an inch inwards from the outer panel, nevertheless a problem may or will eventuate, depending on how the vehicle is maintained, the last thing I'd do is spray the inside panels with foam as this junk traps moisture between panels as it cant breath.
The Black sealant between the panels is a removable strip of a polyurethane's water based composite, it's moisture cured, there is also a similar plastic strip that can be welded on with a Leister welding machine, , it has an identical finish ,only it has to have the top half of the weld cut off, so which process was used at this time , I'm not sure which system was used.
Primers can fail if the metal had been touched by hands prior to dipping and or spraying on the first black primer which is a rust in hibernators, if the metal has been touched by hands oil a natural process from a human can be transfered onto the panel and the primers will not adhere successfully as to a wax like film being on the metal , once covered the moisture will react and a rust film develop.
Another cause for rust developing on a metal surface is where a sheet of clean metal left overnight, prior to a primer or a galvanizing process of treatment, can develop an atmospheric film of contaminating substances, pollutants in the immediate area can settle on to a metal finish, this is [carbon-disulfide] pronounced kar'ban-sul'fld' it's a chemical process that is common in any manufacturing facility it's also a natural substance found on any part of the earths atmosphere.
When a primer is adhered usually early morning or late afternoon moisture is trapped behind the surfaces, [A] the original metal surface and [B] behind the first layer of metal primer, depending on the curing process and the ambient temperatures of the primers, minute particles of water are trapped, these contain a rock salt which is acidic to other surfaces, corrosive radicals from as the carbon salts expand during the drying process and in turn as the moisture evaporates a void is created with in the effected areas, as the salt crystalline particles are trapped, they push forward and break, the painted surface, over a period of time depending on temperatures as the painted surface is broken although one can not see this with a naked eye, moisture enters back into the void , which reactivates the salt like crystals which in turn expand and contract, until the painted surface fails, the paint fails because the metal behind is rusting which increase in size, known as rusticals.
Primers are sourced from either India and China as it's slate like substance and in very high demand globally, it comes in two quality's , the said rock can be surface just a few yards under the soil as it;s like mud rock sand stone , this contains a very high concentration of porous material which is not recommended for automotive paint primers, Quality primers are sourced below the eighty foot mark the lower it is within the ground the higher the compression rate of the rock and the less porousness the product is,once the process is completed by chemical separation contaminated particles can be found within the primer, in most cases this is not an issue, but by adding solvents to thin the products down this can be and have a positive reaction once mixed , as the product is called solveso 150 a Mobil Esso petroleum product, which is protected by copyright and registered, this product of impurity's contains a 5% minus-plus in inconsistency of a purified product, in fact it's the bottom of the petroleum waste products that is recycled and sold as a solvent to paint manufactures in the most part.
End of Story, rust can break through on a vehicle however it's because of an outside factor which by a chemical inter reaction thus forming corrosion. waxing and washing you vehicle on a regular basis is the preventative cure.
Chips on your hood is a throw back from the vehicle in front , your running too close to it, side chips on the vehicle is normally caused by a gravel like substance or particles of tar that appear to look like a chip, wheels have the same amount of chips on them equal to side body damage.
I've achieved the one thousandth post , now I can rest in peace, Amen
Richard

[Altered Sprinter]

Rust coming up from under paint?

What metal is oxdizing? The iron? How did O2 get to the painted metal?

Is paint permeable, or is there a sufficient supply of raw materials under the paint to, um, "rust?"

If the whole body were sprayed with an oxygen barrier, a non-permeable substance (Line-X?), would that have stopped the corrosion?

-Jon

I just could not let this little bequeath, slip on by.
Thinking out side of the square:thinking: I'm sitting in a Mercedes_Benz paint shop.
Thinking of the perfect medium, for a perfect Finish, on a mass production scale.
Kicking my foot, thinking about Planet Earth, and man kind sending out our little Sprinters world wide, one by one they follow the sun to another longitude,to play with tricks on a forum, just to amuse and annoy us for the day.
It would be the most expensive experiment in the world to today, to set up an inert atmosphere for a perfect Sprinter that is not effected by a chain of chemical inter-reaction! 'of our known molecules and neutrons', settling down for a perfect marriage, until Mr Rascal drops in to upset the love match of the day, positive and Neutral,only work in a perfect world, and thats the problem with the materialization of the mathematical formula, when the marriage of convenience combines with science, two are opposite to each other yet they co exist, it's only when you combine the two into a perfect medium, where one can control that radical elementary mischief maker, and only then will the forces, give you that perfect result! On planet Earth, your have less than a 50/50 chance of achieving the result one would like to have experienced. "Why Thank-You Mr Rascal" He lives for atmospherics and ambient temperatures, to play havoc, that's it's game.
Mercedes-Benz could set up a mass produced factory on the nearest Block of real estate! that I could think of, where an inert atmosphere could be obtained, and that's Venus.
But would it matter? in the end the metal turns to rust, rust turns to dust, which lies in waste, waiting for another day to start the process, over and over again.
Sgn: Mad Professor:professor:
Richard

[jdcaples]

< a whole lot of unavoidable truthfulness >


On the other hand, humanity has displayed ingenuity and considerable propensity for delaying the inevitable decay of all things just long enough to get our jollies, though admittedly falling far short of our supposed ambition.

Praise chemistry and pass the phosphoric acid.

[Altered Sprinter]

On the other hand, humanity has displayed ingenuity and considerable propensity for delaying the inevitable decay of all things just long enough to get our jollies, though admittedly falling far short of our supposed ambition.
Thats the fun of a forum Jon there is no neutral ground to please everyone, so you have a little fun and enjoy the threads so to speak.
Mind you I did not include the later factor of neutralizing an inert atmosphere, and thats grounding static electricity, do that on a gaseously planet like Venus,and bang even Earth would spin out of balance on it's axis,.
Who's going to pull the switch:lol:

Praise chemistry and pass the phosphoric acid.
Richard

[Wileycoyote]

Well one of the other owners at the courier company I have my 2 sprinters working at got our local Dodge dealership to buy him and install one of those rust protection systems. Hes had the van for a couple months now and hasnt seen any rust. Maybe I should get a couple myself. im not sure how to include a url so here just highlight it and copy to your address bar...

http://www.canadiantire.com/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT&#37;3C%3Eprd_id=84552444329 2139&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672466&bmUID=1177831501247

[kkanuck]

Richard,

Is there by chance a photo on this forum of where one should blast the front windshiels gasket with air and water to clean debris out as you mnetion and prevent rusting. I know on each side of window at the top, but believe there are some other areas too.

Just want to make sure my cleaning attempts are 100% effective and I am not missing anything or any place.

Many Thanks for any tips,


Tibor

[Altered Sprinter]

Hi Tibor .
I'd be happy to run a photo or two up and show a way of doing it also running a high pressure water test to really clean it out.
The bonus of an air gun is there is a small film of oil left behind the screen, but you can also drip feed an anti rust agent behind it as well, .
Point of interest, the seal is not perfect, I've seen where the vacuum bonding on the back has not quite taken, its these sections where rust can breed because of dirt build up
It's a rainy day down under so Photos are out for a day or two, if you want them I'll do it.
Richard

[Altered Sprinter]

Makes perfect sense especially under the wheel arches inside of sills and if you can access inside rear cargo panels spray them too but clean them first, under the front foot wells on both front doors remove the plastic plugs and treat the painted surface, this is a weak section as well as you cant see if there is a problem , , one could end up with a large hole before you know it, I have a friend in Alberto who bought a D/Sprinter thats used on dirt roads he had every thing rust proofed with a five year warranty, I think it the same link you showed,, I'm sure fairly confident Vancouver has not changed that much , over the years as to my old haunting roost long time back,but it was nothing to see and Ford or Chevy just hanging onto its rear springs and what was left of the floor and side panels, My uncle used sheet metal half an inch thick on the floor pan saying that will last for two more winters. true.
Richard

[kkanuck]

That would be great Richard. I just want to make sure I am doing all of it, correctly, why let it rust if I know what to do as preventative.

No rush sir.......and Many Thanks.


Cheers,


Tibor

[kkanuck]

I just noticed some rust on the seam on the underside of my front hood, at the front near the latch, it seems to be where the roll seam is underneath. There is a line of sealant. looks like caulking which is then painted at the factory.

Is this seam rust a warrant item or only if is perforated with holes?

This has never been in a snow salt climate........



Paint is metallic silver.


Cheers,

[kkanuck]

Hi Tibor .
I'd be happy to run a photo or two up and show a way of doing it also running a high pressure water test to really clean it out.
The bonus of an air gun is there is a small film of oil left behind the screen, but you can also drip feed an anti rust agent behind it as well, .
Point of interest, the seal is not perfect, I've seen where the vacuum bonding on the back has not quite taken, its these sections where rust can breed because of dirt build up
It's a rainy day down under so Photos are out for a day or two, if you want them I'll do it.
Richard



Hi Richard,


Any chance you may still get around to this picture........ I think many folks would really benefit knowing how to clean the gasket water channels properly around the windshield to prevent dirt, and rust.

I still have yet to do mine properly. It wish this would be in the manual but it is not, it should be a preventative maintenance item........


Many Thanks
:thumbup:



Tibor

[Altered Sprinter]

Hi Tibor
Well it's the dead of Winter down under! Cold, wet, and its rained on and off for two weeks straight nothings dry. so it would be appropriate to tun up some photos of our favorite windscreen mould and yuk that lurks behind the screen rubbers, as well as that small outlet left and right of the front guard channels that have a tendency to block with litter and sludge etc.
Been away home for a few months so it will be interesting to see if my old tin can has got any rust there yet.
Sunday if it's not raining I will do the pictorial thread, anything else let me know! The camera is fully charged.
Richard
9224

[kkanuck]

Hi Tibor
Well it's the dead of Winter down under! Cold, wet, and its rained on and off for two weeks straight nothings dry. so it would be appropriate to tun up some photos of our favorite windscreen mould and yuk that lurks behind the screen rubbers, as well as that small outlet left and right of the front guard channels that have a tendency to block with litter and sludge etc.
Been away home for a few months so it will be interesting to see if my old tin can has got any rust there yet.
Sunday if it's not raining I will do the pictorial thread, anything else let me know! The camera is fully charged.
Richard
9224


Thank you kind sir........


Maybe shots for folks who need to see the leaves that pile up in the gutter under the shield as well........I think these are both rust inducing regions if left alone to stew in leaf crud.....



Cheers,


Tibor

[Altered Sprinter]

Thank you kind sir........


Maybe shots for folks who need to see the leaves that pile up in the gutter under the shield as well........I think these are both rust inducing regions if left alone to stew in leaf crud.....



Cheers,


Tibor
Will do micro shots for clarity.
Richard.

[BaywoodBill]

Yesterday I performed my infrequent check of the gutter that's just below the hood at the top of the firewall. I had accumulated a magnificent collection of "seed sails" that popped out of pine cones when we had our heat wave. I dug them out with my fingers until I got down to the area where fingers and hands don't bend and contort that way and saw that a couple of the seeds had actually sprouted.

Then I had an idea: chop sticks. Nice, wooden chop sticks with pointy ends. I could poke and scrape all I wanted with no fear of damaging the paint.

[Altered Sprinter]

Weather report cold and wet. Ok some pics of a windscreen molding and the swamp below the screen.
First shot under the hood RHD guard outlet dirty, ' but not blocked'.
9241
Second shot R.H.S. top swamp collector, this is not full of leaf litter, however it has a sludge build up.
It's interesting as it is oil based?..no rust.
9240
Top L.H.S. side of screen inlet view from roof. Water is not restricted from sludge build up, it flows freely.OILY sheen? no rust.
9242
Center middle bottom screen out let, some build up of contaminate but OK
9243 Bottom L.H.S. of screen out let.
9244 Need a day such as tomorrow to separate the seal, from the body work. To view and astatine build up as to and how deep it has gone behind the rubber seal, including a formula, as to best practice for cleaning procedure.
There is no rust any where that I can see, however as the tin is into it's fourth winter, this section needs a clean out.
Looking as to a reason....why the screen rubber hiding the contaminate, is oily?:thinking:
it's a bonus so I'm not complaining.
If weather is stable, I will follow up on the thread.
Richard

[wild-bill]

Hi Richard,
Thanks for posting the pictures. I didn't know where the entry holes were at the top of the windshield frame.
I saw a post about maintaining the drain system on the Self Build Motor Caravanners Club forum but it didn't have pictures. Spraying fish oil in the top holes is what was suggested to prevent corosion.
Bill

[Altered Sprinter]

Hi Bill
Yes a de-deodorized fish oil would work, other wise the van would smell like a on old sardine tin can:smilewink:
Top screen left to right corner there are two inlet recess in the metal profile..
Bottom screen three of... left corner of screen, center screen bottom, and right hand side of bottom screen.
Photographing this afternoon if I don't break my neck doing it. stay tuned.
Richard.

[Altered Sprinter]

Time travels..wilycoyote started this thread over a year ago. my how time flys:popcorn:
Over the course of the life span of our forum there has been many threads on 'Rust'

As to reflection as to previous comments of screen rust underlying behind the rubber seals of the screen.
I have never looked to see what actually lurks behind it, dirt, decay, spiders, and a new generation of breeding life forms of alien microbes... yet to be named.:eek:
In the past.I have heard members complain:rant: heresy! no one photo has yet been produced to actually show the rust, in a documented form of evidence. As to what created the rust in the first place?...

So up on the roof I went looking for evidence around the entire screen as to where if any rust may be evident..I'm happy to say there is zero rust formulation, in any shape or from.
However I admit there is long term potential for rust to sprout,and this is an expensive repair if you end up with it, as a result of weather conditions prevailing in your geographical area.

Following up on yesterdays photos of the swamp pit between screen, and the underlying profile section behind the hood.
Cobwebs and dirt not as much as the R.H.S still it was there
9256
Spay surface with non toxic foam grease and wax removal cleaner.. citrus even:smirk: scrub surface with paint brush soft bristles to prevent paint damage.
9257
Hose off
9258
Dry and prep with final inspection Meguiars spray.
9259
Clean as a whistle.
9260
Good for another four winters.
Richard

[Altered Sprinter]

Window screen , this one is different and defiantly a place for rust formulation if not maintained.
The entire screen rubber was lifted back using a mouse thread, to separate the the rubber seal from the body of the frame , dirt is a collector during winter! 'it remains damp' .
Photos are the indicators as to where the sediment builds up , all channels were freely running, not blocked by solids, thus preventing the water to free flow, If blocked then creating a possiable rust area could be possiable in a short time span. Looks like a week end chore to get the compressors out to do a thorough clean up.
First photo shows
roof rubber seal L.H.S.. It is clearly starting to block with dirt.
9261
Ran a mouse down the center of the channel behind the screen, and pulled this back."YUK''
9262
L.H.S of screen rubber. pulled back to expose channel dirt contaminate is in evidence.
9263
Ran a mouse down the inside of the channel, behind screen rubber, and pulled back. Contaminate, shows how much was caught in a half metre length....I think it is alive:eek: 9265
Overall .No rust the channels were running free , However a preventive maintenance schedule, is now due.
Richard

[kkanuck]

Hi Richard,


Thanks so much for your time spent on these pictures and tutorials.


Much appreciated!

[Altered Sprinter]

Hi Richard,


Thanks so much for your time spent on these pictures and tutorials.


Much appreciated! Your welcome..Please call again:smilewink:
Richard.
9286

[BaywoodBill]

Richard, thanks for your write up on dredging and cleaning the swamp and searching for hidden rust behind the wind{screen}shield.

While I'm familiar with the mouse that is a rodent with four legs, fur and big incisors and with the mouse that's connected to my hand as I use the computer, I don't know about the mouse you used to pry up the rubber gasket. Please enlarge on that subject.

[Altered Sprinter]

Bill same principle of an electrician dropping a wire behind a cavity with a mouse attached or weight.:smilewink:
As in the first instance I was curious to see if the channel was blocked? in running a plastic coated wire behind the seal, to prevent paint damage, and also as I had not exasperated the actual seal from the body before.
The basic idea, was the actual feel of pressure of the a wire going into the unknown void, that would stall, thus indicating a block of substance, foreign bodies.
Advantage of the wire mouse is a pull to the outer seal ,which WILL RELEASE THE SEAL FROM THE ACTUAL BODY, for actual inspection..either by placing a plastic based SCRAPPER BEHIND THE SCREEN SEAL EDGE TO GET A PROPER LOOK IN.
There is a automotive tool available for this! 'but its metal', I was reluctant to use it in the first instance.
Richard

[jdcaples]

It seems like you could just use a flat, plastic scrapper/spreader tool - from the paint department of your local homeowner hardware store - for the same result.

People commonly use such a tool to spread across - and fill - the seams of abutted drywall sections (also known as gypsum board or sheetrock) with "mud" (and I forget what other names people use for drywall mud).

-Jon

[Altered Sprinter]

Tried the scraper it does not work that well,as it tends to cut into the rubber which I thought it would, back to the original windscreen tool, dammed if i can remember what its called!! owl oul???
It's rubber tipped at the end any way no scratching of paint, works perfectly. Stanley part Number 204920031vb other wise use the plastic wire trick.
9312
1999 Mercedes sprinter rust at top screen operates in a tropical zone seen many vehicles with blown paint on the roof in Queensland... zero maintenance, this is the end result RUST.

9313
Richard

[kkanuck]

Hi Richard,

If you have any windshield pictures in entirety, any chance you could put some arrows on the picture pointing to ALL access holes to be cleaned so it is more clear how many points to put the pick into.... as in is there 4 points, 2 top 2 lower? Or is there more?


Does compressed air help as well by chance?


Cheers,


Tibor

[BaywoodBill]

Thanks for the explanation, Richard.

[rlent]

dammed if i can remember what its called!! owl oul???
That would be an awl ........ although the image you show might be more properly called a pick or a probe. :smilewink:

[Altered Sprinter]

Thanks rient..[ awl ] It's the English wording:smilewink:
Richard

[kkanuck]

[QUOTE=kkanuck;33201]Hi Richard,

If you have any windshield pictures in entirety, any chance you could put some arrows on the picture pointing to ALL access holes to be cleaned so it is more clear how many points to put the pick into.... as in is there 4 points, 2 top 2 lower? Or is there more?


Does compressed air help as well by chance?


Cheers for clarification

[rlent]

Thanks rient..[ awl ] It's the English wording
Quite welcome, of course ....... yeah ........ no telling what we've done to the poor word, once we got it over here on this side of the pond ..... :eek:

[Altered Sprinter]

[quote=kkanuck;33201]Hi Richard,

If you have any windshield pictures in entirety, any chance you could put some arrows on the picture pointing to ALL access holes to be cleaned so it is more clear how many points to put the pick into.... as in is there 4 points, 2 top 2 lower? Or is there more?


Does compressed air help as well by chance?
Air gun will blow out rubbish trapped in voids, however you need to pull the seal back to get at it and wear safety glasses, as to it blowing back into your eyes. tape the tip of the air nozzle to prevent the black marking of scrapping on the paint work. as brass and alloy tips, tend to do this, a nuisance to polish out the marks left by the gun. Arrows indicate drainage holes.
9328



Cheers for clarification

Quite welcome, of course ....... yeah ........ no telling what we've done to the poor word, once we got it over here on this side of the pond ..... :eek: You should see what we did to the English language:smilewink:
Richard

[kkanuck]

[quote=kkanuck;33246]

You should see what we did to the English language:smilewink:
Richard

Thank you Richard,
:rad:

[Altered Sprinter]

Keeps me amused:smilewink:
Richard